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!HELP! Should this happen?


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I would like it to last for a very long time, but it's a thing called "lack of money" and my boss told me this car was in perfect condition.. Now i'm fighting with him to let me rrade it in for another one because no, I do not hace the money for a damn rebuild..

 

Well, then, I guess :

 

I mean, I have a kid on the way and all the money I had saved went into the damn car..

 

You're gonna have to get used to making hard choices.

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While it is an expensive mistake, getting out of that car now is likely your best bet. I'm guessing you are relatively young, and owning a used turbo Subaru is not an inexpensive vehicle to maintain, which you are realizing now. Any father to be without much money should not be "investing" in a performance AWD turbo Subaru. Go buy a cheap Honda/Toyota that will get better mileage and take minimal maintenance. You have a child coming that will be depending on you to make good choices.
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While it is an expensive mistake, getting out of that car now is likely your best bet. I'm guessing you are relatively young, and owning a used turbo Subaru is not an inexpensive vehicle to maintain, which you are realizing now. Any father to be without much money should not be "investing" in a performance AWD turbo Subaru. Go buy a cheap Honda/Toyota that will get better mileage and take minimal maintenance. You have a child coming that will be depending on you to make good choices.

 

 

I absolutely fell in love with this car when I saw it and first drove it.. But yeah, I learned the hard way about how expensive the maintenance on these vehicles are. My boss just bought a 2001 Subaru Outback with 193k mi. On it, well maintained, etc. Non-turbo.. The only thing is we're fixing a small rust spot on the driver side rear wheel well and it'll be all good. I BELIEVE he only wants like $2800 for it.. This feels like it would be a better deal for the wife, and child and I. It's just that my boss is Russian with broken english and hard to talk to. I really hope he lets me trade the Legacy in for something else, but i'm worried he won't. It's inspected til November and at the most it MAY need brakes.

 

I'm just overwhelmed right now. And if you couldn't tell i'm a big worry wart.

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I absolutely fell in love with this car when I saw it and first drove it.. But yeah, I learned the hard way about how expensive the maintenance on these vehicles are. My boss just bought a 2001 Subaru Outback with 193k mi. On it, well maintained, etc. Non-turbo.. The only thing is we're fixing a small rust spot on the driver side rear wheel well and it'll be all good. I BELIEVE he only wants like $2800 for it.. This feels like it would be a better deal for the wife, and child and I. It's just that my boss is Russian with broken english and hard to talk to. I really hope he lets me trade the Legacy in for something else, but i'm worried he won't. It's inspected til November and at the most it MAY need brakes.

 

I'm just overwhelmed right now. And if you couldn't tell i'm a big worry wart.

 

I can totally relate, and honestly, throughout this rebuild, I've had to learn to let go of my worries, or at least, stop verbalizing them. Internalize, internalize, internalize!

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Hide your shame!!! :lol:

 

It's hard to hide well-bitten fingernails and bleeding ulcers.

 

But that excess anxious energy isn't without good use; there's not a spec of dirt on my wheels, and my paint looks nearly flawless! I'll hide inside the car.

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So do you guys think the Outback would be better suited for my family and I? or should I go another way?

 

Go with something else. Your brand loyalty seems to be misplaced -- The OB will probably give you HG issues, which, although a simple fix, can be a major hindrance when your wife is driving your new baby to a dr appointment or something..

 

Get a Civic or an Accord.

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If buying a 3rd Gen Legacy (USDM MY2000-2004) - or any older Subaru for that matter

 

Here's what to look for:

 

Head Gasket - Has it been done?

-Yes - Good to go if less than 60,000 miles ago

-No - Deduct ~1500-2500 for imminent repair

 

Timing belt - Has it been replaced -

-Yes - Ok if less than ~70,000 miles, belts have a 105,000 mile life and cost ~800-1000 to replace at a shop - ~400-500 diy to do it correctly

-No - Get an estimate for the timing belt from you favorite shop and deduct, but owner will probably not deduct from purchase price

 

Rear Sub-frame - Is it Rotted/failed, Rusty, or Painted?

 

-Rotted/failed - Stay away unless you want to tackle the job of dropping the whole rear subframe and suspension and source a new one

-Rusty - take a hammer and tap to check for weak spots - could be ok, but will fail soon

-Painted - If subframe is new or still has the factory paint, should be good to go, but still keep an eye for any and all rot spots

 

Rocker Panels - I have seen very few completely gone, but if they are rotted through, inspect unibody for weak spots with a hammer. Do not buy if the strut towers or the spots where the subframes connect to the unibody are rotted

 

Other than that, use your basic used car knowledge, my buddy's 2000 LGT lasted over 300,000 miles before we turned it into a mud car, but as MrTris says, this car's age will possibly leave you with some reliability issues, unless you do everything the right way.

 

Sorry to hear about your LGT, I have a kid on the way too, and I'm looking to offload my GT on a dealer trade in in the fall.

 

Good luck with everything,

 

Steve

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So uhh, about how much am I looking at for a new/rebuilt crate motor from Keystone or something. I DO NOT want to get a junk yard engine

 

For which?

 

If you mean for your LGT, you're looking at a starting price *for the whole process* of about $3500. To do it right, you're gonna need about $5-7k.

 

3rd Gen OB? Pssh, new engine is . . . Like $2k? And that's WITH heads!

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For which?

 

If you mean for your LGT, you're looking at a starting price *for the whole process* of about $3500. To do it right, you're gonna need about $5-7k.

 

3rd Gen OB? Pssh, new engine is . . . Like $2k? And that's WITH heads!

 

Just a quick clarification--Outbacks are one generation "behind" Legacys, i.e. 3rd gen outback is 2005-2009, while the same years are considered a 4th gen Legacy. So 2000-2004 Outbacks are 2nd gen outbacks. Dumb.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Why are you still considering buying grenades i.e. old Subarus? The "guy" has burnt you once, he must have seem you coming 10 miles away to get you to buy that LGT now you want to buy the OB @ 193K+ miles ?

 

Unless you have a larger budget and can buy a newer well documented and maintained used Subaru STOP! :) Time to look for a reliable vehicle that is cheaper to service and maintain given your family expansion. Camry's make great used vehicles and are safe and cheap to own.

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Why are you still considering buying grenades i.e. old Subarus? The "guy" has burnt you once, he must have seem you coming 10 miles away to get you to buy that LGT now you want to buy the OB @ 193K+ miles ?

 

Unless you have a larger budget and can buy a newer well documented and maintained used Subaru STOP! :) Time to look for a reliable vehicle that is cheaper to service and maintain given your family expansion. Camry's make great used vehicles and are safe and cheap to own.

 

But there is a Maserati coming in on a trade and it only has 175k on it. If I promise my first and second born to my boss I'll be able to afford it. Thing is, it's got a ticking coming from the engine. I think my boss said something about Mussolini? I'm a big fan of Italians. Anyway, the engine is Stalin. I mean, stalling. Yes, it doesn't run at all, but he mentioned JB Weld too, so I'm thinking it's all good. What do you all think?

 

:spin:

 

OP, in all seriousness, cut your losses and get a cheap and RELIABLE car. I'm sure someone on the forums is looking for a project.

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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From another thread - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/low-rpm-stumble-no-power-219903p11.html

 

Yeah, my buddy's shop just started installing Spartan Long blocks. Awesome quality, dyno-tested 3 Year Unlimited mileage warranty engines. It comes with everything but sensors and intake/exhaust manifolds. EJ253 was about $3400 for a complete longblock with timing componants - All mitsubishi and NSK belts and componants, as well as a complete Subaru gasket set. Priced out a 20R longblock for ~$1600.

 

http://130.94.213.132/jpg/engines/712e/atk712e-1.jpg

Only catch is you have to order it from Advance Auto Parts. Spartan's website, .

 

 

For a "Crate" engine, here is a complete rebuild from Spartan Engines (Advance Auto Parts) with a 3 year warranty EJ257 is about $4,000 for the complete engine and warranty.

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The one I listed above includes everthing, only thing needed are sensors, OCV's, intake, exhaust, T-stat, and valve covers. It comes with a complete Subaru Gasket set, at least the EJ253 did. I don't believe there's shipping because it's sent to Advance Auto Parts, but I could be wrong.
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