diesel2wd Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 I had a nice clarion head unit installed. 100 for the unit, 50 for install. took the shop about 30 minutes to install it, they used the adaptor, guarantee work for life. the head has 5 different color light choices, a remote, aux port, fm1 and 2, "more room for presets" and wires for amp and subs if I want later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share Posted July 12, 2014 after way more work than i wanted to put in, the car is back on the ground and test driven. the changes outlined in this thread made the car a totally different animal and it seems it's going to be a pretty enjoyable DD. i went to the salvage yard after some other goodies for the camaro/firebird stuff this morning and picked up a scoop hood from a 98. exactly what i wanted, lol! i'll plastidip the hood when i get a little time. still gotta put the passenger/rear seats back in after cleaning them up. as for the shifter knuckle. i ended up using a series of washers and spacers inside the linkages and deleted the bushings all together. granted there is a little more drivetrain noise being transmitted to the shifter now, i know it'll NEVER fail again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boattlebot Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 Got a write up for the bushing replacment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 no, lol. just some spacer/bushings/washers i had laying around in my washer bin. found one that fit sluggly to the cross bolt and to the rod end side of the shifter/shift rail. i took the shift rail part off the trans to assemble it. i need a shifter return spring badly now, but otherwise it's doing well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boattlebot Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Maby I can figure it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 there are boat loads of articles and threads on it already. just spending a couple evenings looking it up on google had enough material to cover anything i needed. do you have a specific question? i don't see the need to rewrite something that's already been written several times/ways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 i've noticed something with this car that's a bit odd. the temp gauge will peg after about 5 or 6 minutes of run time. after 10 mins or so of that condition, the gauge falls to the middle of the range and is totally fine and will not overheat again. consistent with a sticking thermostat. so i replaced the thermostat and hoses, they needed changed anyway, but with no change. i have ran the car with the rad cap off for a while all the time keeping it full. after 10 mins or so of run time, i feel it's good enough and put the cap on. the part that confuses me is that after some run time, it cools off and is totally fine. is there something obvious i'm missing? oil is clean coolant is clean no notable tailpipe steam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 bleed the air from the lines all the way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 Where is the bleeder? I looked pretty thoroughly and couldn't find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 link: how to fill and burp your cooling system. - burpcoolingsystem - Subaru Legacy Forums Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 one quirk of my wagon was that when i had it (i thought) filled and burped, it would still blip the temp like yours is. i ran it with the cap off and bleeder open, no real change. after it got to operating temp (fans came on a couple cycles) i shut the engine off without putting the cap on, and the level dropped. i kept adding coolant until it stopped dropping, and eventually it was filled. took about an hour of messing with it to find that anomaly but once i did, it took about 15 min of slow pouring to get it to work correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 Well that got it guys! Thanks much for the link! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 tomorrow marks the maiden "voyage". the start of 110 miles daily on this thing. can't wait to see how it works out. in my cleaning i managed to make the cruise in-op. is there any information on the cruise control anyway? (like, how it works, wiring/vacuum diagrams, etc). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 check where the cable comes out of the fire wall and runs to the throttle body. it can get knocked and come loose. or were you talking about the inside of the car.? does the horn work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 horn works. everything is connected in the engine bay. it worked fine, i took the cluster surround trim piece off and cleaned it, which means i took the buttons/switches loose from the wiring harness there. i spot cleaned the button/switches, but no direct water, just moist sponge. i hooked everything back up the way it was...seams impossible to hook this up wrong honestly as the pigtails will only plug into the correct button/switch. i also took the column trim piece off to clean it, and it was very hard to get back lined up correctly. i wonder if i pinched or took something loose in the column when putting the trim piece back on. i know electrical is basically impossible to remotely diagnose, and i will just need to dive back in to find it :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 fuses first. then recheck the switch connection. does the switch button light up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 yup, switch light comes on. not sure if that indicator light is on the same circuit, but it sure would make sense on another note, what kind of real world gas mileage should i expect from this thing? google says 29-31...seems optimistic after driving it a bit today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 My 97 2.5 with auto achieves ~20 MPG with a mix of 50/50 city/highway and ~28 MPG on the highway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 my gt awd gets about 23ish in city, 26ish hwy. my wagon fwd gets about 26 city and 29ish hwy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 my gt awd gets about 23ish in city, 26ish hwy. my wagon fwd gets about 26 city and 29ish hwy.really good numbers. congrats.!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 well, mpg surprised me today! not too bad for maiden fuel tank fill up since all the fresh pieces. I have a few more tricks up my sleeve, but nothing major happening yet. I'm pretty sure a high flow catback type exhaust will help this even further Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 My '98 EJ22 Legacy wagon gets 23-/24 city and 26/27 mixed (mostly highway). Curious if it can get close to the advertised 30 MPG on a longer trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 Curious if it can get close to the advertised 30 MPG on a longer trip. when i took my wagon from az to mi a few years ago, my mileage jumped up to just over 31 after i hit new mexico.it topped out at about 32 by the timme i got to michigan, and on the return trip dropped down to under 30 when i hit AZ again. after a while i realized it was when the speed limits dropped under 70 that the mileage went up lol. i was doing 80-85 through AZ and parts of NM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 ^i suspect mine will do similar over the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivant Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 I have to laugh when you guys worry about your fuel usage, when it is so cheap to buy where you live. In little old NZ where I am it costs $2.22 a litre, times that by four and a half to make a gallon and that's $10 a gallon. What are you guys paying a gallon, about $4, and you worry about your usage. You don't know how good you have it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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