Zues Marine Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 buy these headers instead...then throw on about 50'x2" of header wrap to quiet the heavy lifter tick noise that is a product of the UELs thinner walls... i dont believe subaru went massive on the hydro clutches until a bit later.. 97ish with the influx of 2.5s maybe.. you also should grab some of these to lift up the "saggy rear" that comes with lowering the car - since the rear and front arches do not have the same circumference - grab the 2002-2003 impreza/WRX ones for the rear at a 3/8" thickness and the best part is probably the fat that your motor is OBD2 as you've probably noticed.. which means you can use this [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows-Android/dp/B009RLB4Z8/ref=pd_sim_misc_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=06XJDGPYR9KYZEE60KPV]ELM 327 bluetooth[/ame] obd reader to monitor things on your tablet or phone with the Android App 'Torque'.... and also satisfyingly disprove all the mechanics that argue with you that you ave an OBD1.. ha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 one disadvantage is that the Legacys in 1995 had a bit of proprietary wiring.. so if you ever plan on a harness merge or anything crazy, you'll definitely need a wiring diagram over most of the online DIYs.. as they are geared more toward the other years... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 5, 2014 Author Share Posted July 5, 2014 well i don't plan to deviate from the original engine or anything like that so doing hybrid harness merges or something along those lines shouldn't be a concern, lol! but thanks for letting me know. i was thinking about getting some sort of scan gauge to put into the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 so...much...cleaning.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boattlebot Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Yea.....that happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diesel2wd Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 You also have one of the best engines ever built by Subaru which is the EJ22. 1995 and 1996 were the final years that Subaru built this as a non interference engine. Those of us with 1997 and later EJ22's (as well as other motors) also often have piston slap when the engine is cold, because the pistons were redisegned for less friction. EJ22's also seldom had the headgasket found on the 90's vintage EJ25D and 2000 and later EJ25 engines mines a 1998, ej22 non interference. last year of manufacture, SOME left overs made it to SOME 1999's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 i have 3 days into cleaning now....i could probably go for another 3 days...ugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diesel2wd Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 clean mine next ? lol? don't have the time or patience for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 i won't put my family into something this disgusting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diesel2wd Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 hope you got a good deal then, sounds bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 by the time it's all said and done, and i get all the maintenance parts on the car, i'll have ~$1500 in the whole thing....that includes price of the car, new-to-me wheels/tires, all the cleaning/maintenance i will have done, tinted windows, and on the road (tag/inspection). it's mostly just sweat equity man.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 just realized that the shifter knuckle i ordered won't work in my car. hope i can catch them before they process the order and see if i can cancel it or change it to just the bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diesel2wd Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 I'd say 1500 total is a good deal, I paid 2300 for mine almost 3 years ago. only put 500 into it since then in "unexpected" repairs. only another 300 in stuff I knew it was going to need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvkarmatoburn Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 mines a 1998, ej22 non interference. last year of manufacture, SOME left overs made it to SOME 1999's How did you find this out? I too was under the impression that 96 was the last year the EJ22 was non-interference. Not saying I'm positive your wrong, but I think you are. http://dsxh627np3840.cloudfront.net/sites/www.scoobyenthusiast.com/files/imagecache/node-gallery-display/SUBARU_Engine_Photos/SUBARUenginesinterferencenoninterferencelist.png Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 How did you find this out? I too was under the impression that 96 was the last year the EJ22 was non-interference. Not saying I'm positive your wrong, but I think you are. http://dsxh627np3840.cloudfront.net/sites/www.scoobyenthusiast.com/files/imagecache/node-gallery-display/SUBARU_Engine_Photos/SUBARUenginesinterferencenoninterferencelist.png When bought my '98 Legacy w/ EJ22 last year I relied on the Gates timing belt guide which said it was non-interference, but I've since learned that the changes made to the piston design in '97 made the EJ22 interference from then on :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diesel2wd Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 How did you find this out? I too was under the impression that 96 was the last year the EJ22 was non-interference. Not saying I'm positive your wrong, but I think you are. http://dsxh627np3840.cloudfront.net/sites/www.scoobyenthusiast.com/files/imagecache/node-gallery-display/SUBARU_Engine_Photos/SUBARUenginesinterferencenoninterferencelist.png because I shredded the timing belt once in mine. yes its the original motor. vins match everywhere except a fender I screwed up. when it went I was busy passing a VW on the highway, 80 mph and it just shut off. nothing broke, bent, nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvkarmatoburn Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 because I shredded the timing belt once in mine. yes its the original motor. vins match everywhere except a fender I screwed up. when it went I was busy passing a VW on the highway, 80 mph and it just shut off. nothing broke, bent, nothing. All I can say is that you got lucky. The change from the hydraulic valvetrain to solid, starting in 1997, made the EJ22 interference. Steve, above, is exactly right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diesel2wd Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 did they change that in early or late 97? my car was built in 11/97 titled as a 98 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvkarmatoburn Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Early 96 I would assume.I have a 97 Brighton without the hydraulic adjusters. I also put a 96 EJ22 in a 98 LGT 2.5 with blown heads. I picked the 96 specifically because it was non-interference after plenty of research and advice from Johnegg, he's the guru around here on 2nd gen Lego's. The 95 would have even better, because the exhaust bolts right up with the 2.5's, but didn't already have one of those! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivant Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 After looking at the pictures of your car and how dirty and knocked around everything was when you went to buy it. That to me would be screaming out unloved car. Hopefully it got the odd oil change. I would have gone over the engine and box with a fine tooth comb. It looks like it now has an owner that will look after it. But... is it maybe too late ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 nah, not too late. car is basically rust free and most of the mechanicals exist. as long i can get it through this next winter, i'll start looking into maybe doing a refresh on the engine. being a non-interference engine makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside. now i won't waste my money or time doing a timing belt on this thing with the engine in the car. if i decide to pull it to refresh it, i'll do it on the stand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 mines a 1998, ej22 non interference. last year of manufacture, SOME left overs made it to SOME 1999's i do not think this is accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 Front CV axles changed. Not sure I like the roll pins holding the axles to the output shafts. The previous "mechanic" managed to break off a punch or something in the passenger side. It was so jacked up I ended up dropping the exhaust out to get some real equipment up in there. Good thing I did...I need some exhaust gaskets too lol. What should have taken 45 mins ended up taking near 3 hours. Oh well...guess the valve cover gaskets and inner/outer tied rod ends needed to wait till tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 The previous "mechanic" managed to break off a punch or something in the passenger side. a 3/16 inch punch is the size you want. one quarter inch is too big and will get stuck. i'm not sure what the mm sizes are. but why buy a specialty tool when ever hardware store has what you need. the ''subaru'' tool is about 30'' long, so you can easily drive the pin out from above the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 i got it out. i used a long 3/16" allen wrench, though a punch would have been easier. i tried from the top at first, but with all the broken bits in the way, i had to get closer. ultimately, the drill came out to work away some of the broken "whatever it was" the previous guy broke off in there. the end solution ended up being to get as much out of either side of the cv axle, then slide the axle off over top of the broken "junk" in the cross hole. once i got the axle off, i was able to cleanly drive the broken bits out of the hole, and a new pin was used with the new axle. it was a severe mess, but it's fixed "correctly" now tonight will be brakes, inner/outer tie-rod ends/bellows, and if i get really going, i'll also tackle the valve cover gaskets. any tips on any of these jobs? I hear you're "the guy" when it comes to 1st gen legos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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