Matt Walter Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 yes of course. can you tell me a good source for the updated rear block plate and gasket that i keep hearing likes to leak? i guess the oe one is plastic, and the updated one is metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scontivt Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Just as a precaution on the rear main seal. I would inspect it for cracks/rot/tearing and evaluate at that point whether you want to change it. It is a item that is installed when the engine was split in half. Just my $.02. I have seen at least one car where the rear main leaked after a seal replacement. If you replace it, make sure to hit it in square and don't hit it in too far. Also this is from another member: $500 used to be little high, but they are more scarce now and 100k is really low miles. this engine will go 300k with care, probably more. but you will be long done with the chassis before you get that far. yes to not disconnecting the AC, but not so much for the steering pump. there isn't a lot of fluid in it, ATF by the way, and when you ''flop'' it out of the way the fluid spills out the cap. it isn't a sealed system. so i would ''turkey baster'' the fluid out of the reservoir and remove it. plus if you get the ps lines you will have to disconnect it anyway. yes, used local ej22 over ANY ej25 unless completely rebuilt with 3/36 warranty. any used , ANY, used ej25 could come down with bad head gaskets. probably not right away, but in time ...... plus the JDM may not have EGR. you have to really work at killing the gaskets on an ej22. yes they can go bad, but usually the car is wrecked before they do. but anything is possible. the ej22, 90 - 96 is the best engine suabru has ever built. things you must do before installing the ej22: 1/ replace the plastic ''oil separator plate'' and screws on the rear of the block. if it isn't leaking now it will eventually. the metal replacement plate is about $35 from the dealer. things you should do: 1/ new timing belt, water pump and pulleys, ~$130 on ebay frpm ''theimportexperts'' . 2/ front oil seals, 2 cam seals, 2 cam cap o-rings, 1 crank seal, 1 oil pump o-ring, and re-seal the oil pump to the block. (check the screws on the back side og the oil pump.) dealer ~$40, plus a tube of RTV ultra gray or anaerobic sealant. do this and your car will go 60k miles till the next t-belt service. but since it is a non-interference engine, the t-belt (and seals, if not leaking,) COULD wait. but do it and get it over with. thing to NOT do: do not replace the rear main seal UNLESS it is really leaking. and i mean leaking, dripping on the ground, not just a small bit of ooze. of course plugs and wires would be advised. wires should be subaru ($40) or really good quality. cheap wires can be a headache on these engines. NGK plugs. valve cover gaskets and bolt grommets are about $28 from your local parts store. exhaust manifold gaskets can come from almost any where. intake manifold gaskets will not be needed unless you remove the intake. but they can be generic as well. tips on the R&R. 1/ when you jack up the trans so the engine will clear the cross member, DO NOT jack on the trans oil pan with out a large board to spread the load. if you dent the pan you will have trans issues. not deadly but a pain. 2/ flex plate to trans torque converter bolts, these can be done with the right wrench from above at the access hole under the throttle body, passenger side. but it is WAY WAY easier if you remove the intake from the ej25. then you can use socket with a long extention, easy peasy. when installing the ej22 you can do the same thing, remove the intake, but there are a couple of hoses that connect the intake to the cooling system under the throttle body. they are old and a bit of a pain to disconnect but easier since the engine will be out. but not too bad to re-connect. pull the rad with the fans attached, and protect the AC condenser. i remove the axles from the trans so i can reach the lower trans / engine nuts. where in NC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 well, something back there is leaking. not sure what yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 probably the oil separator plate, if its never been done. 30-40 bux at parts houses, or even the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 car is inspected...whew. ended up with new fuzion all seasons and a new windshield, as well as an alignment to get it to pass. guess i'll get that clutch and such on order soon. stupid scooby....it's starting to take money away from my camaro now, which isn't a good thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erickrocks1126 Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 :-( Bummer. That was a really expensive inspection! Though many on here I'm sure won't see the problem of diverting money from the camaro to the Scooby :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 haha, i'm sure. the Camaro is actually a sponsored racecar though, and i'm missing commitments as it's broken at the moment. using Camaro funds to keep the DD's alive are pushing back the Camaro's return to the racetrack. my sponsors are very very understanding as they know i'm a one-man show and have a growing family (expecting our first in january) but still, i don't like going back on my word. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 .....and.....transmission failed on the way to work this morning. anyone got one? in central MD area. need one ASAP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvkarmatoburn Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 I have a 4EAT...not a 5MT though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylormac1993 Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 .....and.....transmission failed on the way to work this morning. anyone got one? in central MD area. need one ASAP. What's wrong with the tranny? 4EAT or 5MT? Chances are if it's the auto, just replace it. Those cars' transmissions are easy to find in scrapyards. If it's the Manual, chances are it can be fixed or rebuilt. Either way, it could be something simple but without details we just don't know, ya know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scontivt Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 My buddy has a 2000 2.5 GT tranny, but it's in Vermont, and you would need the rear diff too...lol Good luck with the search, and make sure the tranny is out of another 2.2L, as the 2.5L manuals came with a 4.11 rear diff and the 2.2 manual came with a 3.9 rear diff. EDIT: Quote 95 - 99 ej22 manual trans are all 3.9 ratio. exception, the 96 ej22 manual trans outback had the 4.11 ratio. this it the only time suabru offeer the ej22 with an outback. the 95 was just s trim level, a look, for the lagacy, not really an outback with raised roof, taller struts, and larger tires. look your car up on opposedforces.com/parts and look for your ring and pinion under the train section. you have a 3.9 ratio. Quote 95 - 99 ej22 manual trans are all 3.9 ratio. (except for the 96 outback manual trans.) 2.5L cars w/ manual trans are different. they have 4.11 ratio, 96 - 99. Edited by johnceggleston, 24 April 2012 - 08:32 AM. Found this on USMB. If yours is truely an Outback and not a Outback trim Legacy L Wagon, than your have a 4.11 rear and front diff. That's a very tricky year you got there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 sounds like it's time to pop open the rear differential and count teeth then. i'll do that and do a fluid change back there sometime maybe next week. got a big race with the f-bodies this weekend, so this thing is living on the trailer till we are through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 so, finding out the front differential gear ratio won't be quite as easy as looking to see what the rear is. obviously the existing front/rear are the same, but is there an easy way to identify (outside transmission markings, etc) what front differential gearing a transmission has? The information i've found is also quite conflicting (3.90 vs 4.11). i can confirm the rear differential no problem, just pull the cover, count teeth, and divide the ring gear by the pinion gear. i just need to know how to find out what front differential gears are in the new-to-me transmission when i get it without splitting the case. as far as i can tell, i have a 1995 legacy L wagon "outback", which is basically an appearance package on the existing wagon, and not the "true" raised roofline outback of 1996 and later. yes, weird year. i *would* rebuild the trans if i felt confident i could source pieces for it. the way it failed, i'm afraid there is big damage. failure events are as follows: -70mph in 5th gear -i felt a nudge, almost like someone bumped the car -RAPID deceleration -stick jammed in 5th gear -as i slowed, i heard some gnarly thunks and grinding -once stopped, i was able to unjam the stick, but it wouldn't go into any other gear -finally got it into 3rd gear, tried to slip clutch to limp it off the highway and the engine stalled -smoke exited transmission area (i hear once you let the smoke out, it's never the same) the car was really bound up as i winched it onto the trailer. at one point it stopped the winch. i had to put two ratchet straps on the front and put as much tension on those as possible to get it over the stuck spot. the wheels still rolled, but NOT freely. something is VERY broken inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 i just spent a little more time reading through that opposedforces website. cool site! my car has a build date of 6/95. the 4.11 gears were not introduced till 2/96, REGARDLESS of true "outback" or "L w/ outback package", so i should be good to go. unless.....someone's effed with it at some point >.< Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scontivt Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 So, to make your headache less, just get the corresponding Differential with the transmission, if you can't find a transmission with a known 3.9 gear ratio. That way you'll be able to swap diffs if it's wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 95 manual trans ej22 has a 3.9 ratio. you can use ANY manual trans from ANY ej22 or ej18 car, legacy or impreza, 95 - 99, EXCEPT the 96 outback manual trans w/ ej22. www.car-part.com impreza manual trans may be cheaper, less demand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scontivt Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 You should be able to use the 2.2L Impreza Trans from MY 2000-2001 as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 So, to make your headache less, just get the corresponding Differential with the transmission, if you can't find a transmission with a known 3.9 gear ratio. That way you'll be able to swap diffs if it's wrong. not interested in that kind of work honestly, though i'd do it if i absolutely had no other choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scontivt Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Not that bad to do actually. Remove the rear axles, remove the mustache bar, unbolt the drive shaft, unbolt the diff. I say this, but if you live in a rust belt state like me, it will most likely require some PB Blaster and possibly an induction heater for the bolts, as they are next to the gas tank. Find the number on your transmission near your starter and post it here. I believe there is a way to decode what front diff you have by that number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted September 7, 2014 Author Share Posted September 7, 2014 well, i bought a transmission AND a differential from a used parts depot/salvage yard on ebay. $590 shipped with 6 month warranty. pretty sure i couldn't find a better deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 clutch, rear engine separator plate, and rear main seal on the way too...tired of spending money now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 and the flywheel....almost forgot that.... anyone wanna buy this thing when i'm done? it'll be basically a new car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erickrocks1126 Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Oh man, sorry the car is giving you so much trouble. Honestly, Subies are great cars. I think you just might have gotten one that was so neglected over it's life before you got it that all this stuff needs to be done...and you got saddled with it. I think if you do that to most any car and I think it'll be the same, no matter how good a reputation the brand may have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 I'm not too concerned about it honestly, it's just work/money i don't have time/resources to deal with right this second, but i'll buckle down and get it handled. it's gonna be a nice driving car once it's all done, lol. it was DEFINITELY abused most of it's life. a lot of people think that because a car maker has an excellent reputation for reliability, that they don't have to service anything and they can be run into the ground. that is evident on every part of this car. of course, i get to deal with it, but i don't think i could have gotten a better car for my needs than this. not many AWD 5speed wagons out there today that average 28-29 mpg hwy like this one has for me so far. it'll get a strict amsoil diet from here on out. i will make sure that everything is in good shape before i put everything back in. i'm tempted to put fresh bearings in this rear differential i got as well as new u-joints in the driveshaft before i put it all back together. trans arrived today. i'll see how much trouble i can get into with it over this week, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Walter Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 shifts easily by hand. guess i got work to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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