Share your alignment specs

[02LGTSNJ]

I didnt ask for anymore advice here, I just wanted to move it into the appropriate thread so my experience is documented for others in the correct location. Its not lowered, Im on stock suspension only change is 20 mm rsb Edited February 28, 2017 by 02LGTSNJ

[whitetiger]

Had new tires mounted and balanced over the weekend and got an alignment as well. Shop said they couldnt get camber dialed in on the front passenger side and that I needed new camber bolts.

 

this alignment is garbage. if you leave a shop with a thrust angle that is not 0.000, then they failed you hard. i would have not paid the bill with that results sheet.

[fredrik94087]

^^^ It looks like all they did was adjust toe and still didn't zero it out. But, that camber difference in the front...why?

[02LGTSNJ]

They claimed that they couldnt get it right because i was in need of new camber bolts

[whitetiger]

^if any shop says this, they should not continue. they should take the car off the rack, not charge you, and have you come back with new bolts. otherwise you paid for nothing.

[02LGTSNJ]

this pisses me off, I had always heard mixed feedback about this shop, I would have never used them but my issue was that I had a giant nail in one of my tires and the air was leaking out so fast I could actually hear it, luckily i made it to a Wawa in time to get add some air before it was completely flat and then this particular shop was the closest to where I was so I had to drop it off before the tire went flat again. If I get the bolts and take it back do you think they should be obligated to re do the alignment free of charge?

[whitetiger]

^not obligate, but they should do it gratis from a cust service POV. Unfortunately, the way most shops operate, one you sign that paper, you agreed the repair/service to be complete. you most likely will have to pay again.

[GhiaAddict]

Finally got my car aligned after the installment of Eibachs/KYB/MR 22MM RSB w/ Kartboy Endlinks.

 

Before specs:

 

Front:

Caster - Camber - Toe

L: 6.0 L: -.9 L: -.35

R: 5.7 R: -.2 R: .30

 

Rear:

Camber - Toe

L: -1.5 L: 0.00

R: -1.7 R: 0.00

 

After specs:

 

Front:

Caster - Camber - Toe

L: 5.9 L: -1.1 L: -.15

R: 5.7 R: -1.0 R: -.15

 

Rear:

Camber - Toe

L: -1.4 L: 0.0

R: -1.6 R: 0.0

 

Car does feel like it tracks better. I did tell them to try and put front camber to -1.4 but they said the above figures were the best they could do. I am pleased that the rear camber was where its at. I don't foresee adjusting it.

Edited April 9, 2017 by GhiaAddict

[whitetiger]

better. they should have tried harder to get camber exactly equal between both sides.

[SJGT]

 

Short of correcting that the rears drop down to .5 less than the fronts (not more - the tech wrote it down wrong)

 

Anything else anyone sees on here to question - heading back in Monday

 

This is on coil overs, with rear adj LCAs, 255/40 on 9.5x18 wheels

 

 

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[whitetiger]

thats pretty good. do you have a way to adjust caster to equalize that as well?

[Humble Rumble]

 

Short of correcting that the rears drop down to .5 less than the fronts (not more - the tech wrote it down wrong)

 

Anything else anyone sees on here to question - heading back in Monday

 

This is on coil overs, with rear adj LCAs, 255/40 on 9.5x18 wheels

 

 

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Your caster makes me feel better about my own (and gives me a reason to post my sheet). This is on 19x8.5 +45, dropped on Koni/KYB struts with Eibach Springs, with Whiteline rear LCAs.

 

[whitetiger]

^your alignment is not so good. why couldn't they get your front and rear toe and front camber to be precisely equal. small differences, especially in the rear can make noticeable effects on the street. rear thrust, specifically, needs to be 0.000000.

[SJGT]

thats pretty good. do you have a way to adjust caster to equalize that as well?

 

 

 

So the value in the 5 - 6 range doesn’t bother as much as just not being exactly equal L vs R, right? I can inquire when I go - reschedule to Wednesday

 

 

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[dgoodhue]

If you wanted to try to get the caster close to even on the rack then you would need 1 offset pancake offset bushing in the control arms or camber struts mounts. Every 5th Gen Legacy alignment I have seen has a about 1/2 degree of a difference in caster in the car.

 

In my opinion if your going to go that level of precision of getting the car perfectly aligned, then you should also put in some dead weight (equivalent to your body weight) into the drivers seat while its on the alignment machine. Personally I wouldn't worry about it for a typical street driven car.

[coco26]

So the value in the 5 - 6 range doesn’t bother as much as just not being exactly equal L vs R, right? I can inquire when I go - reschedule to Wednesday

 

 

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I've heard this is a designed difference between sides to compensate for the crown of normal roads... not sure how much I believe that, but another perspective nonetheless.

[whitetiger]

So the value in the 5 - 6 range doesn’t bother as much as just not being exactly equal L vs R, right? I can inquire when I go - reschedule to Wednesday

 

 

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no, the raw value is not as important as equality. any given chassis with a limited adjustment range will have whatever number it can produce. its the job of the alignment to get them as close to targets as possible as long as both side are equal. if i have a 1 side camber target of -2.0 but one side can only get to -1.7, then the other side must be -1.7 too, and that philosophy should be for every measurement on the car, especially for rear toe.

[Abdi]

Alright guys im running about -2.8 camber in the rears the alignment shop said I needed bolts to get it more dialed in. Should I be getting just the KCA414 kit ? or should I just get rear lower control arms ?

 

 

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[bigstrusk]

The rear LCAs were a simple install. I'd recommend them. I just went with the RockAuto brand (ultra power) as they look exactly like Moog pieces and almost had the same part number. Oem design -style. $26 each vs. $89 each, but even the latter isn't a bad price. Both include an offset bushing you can put in there for additional toe adjustment, but those are the ones that require a press if I am not mistaken. I skipped those.

[Abdi]

Any difference between those and the whiteline or spc brands ?

 

 

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[cww516]

Far as I can tell, just the color of the paint. I think the bushings they come with may be different, so that'd be worth looking at, but I think the stampings themselves may be identical.

[bigstrusk]

Far as I can tell, just the color of the paint. I think the bushings they come with may be different, so that'd be worth looking at, but I think the stampings themselves may be identical.

 

I 2nd that. Same designs. May be different bushings durometer, but the ones on got felt very solid

[Abdi]

Just ordered the rock auto ones for 65 shipped also got the whiteline camber bolts with the money I saved.

 

 

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[sbao26975]

The rear LCAs were a simple install. I'd recommend them. I just went with the RockAuto brand (ultra power) as they look exactly like Moog pieces and almost had the same part number. Oem design -style. $26 each vs. $89 each, but even the latter isn't a bad price. Both include an offset bushing you can put in there for additional toe adjustment, but those are the ones that require a press if I am not mistaken. I skipped those.

 

Far as I can tell, just the color of the paint. I think the bushings they come with may be different, so that'd be worth looking at, but I think the stampings themselves may be identical.

 

Just ordered the rock auto ones for 65 shipped also got the whiteline camber bolts with the money I saved.

 

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Ordered these as well and just got them. Were your bushings sitting a little off? Is this an issue?

 

EDIT: Nevermind. Seems like there's supposed to be some play and they aren't frozen like that.

 

Edited June 15, 2019 by sbao26975

[Scubaboo]

With my suspension mods pretty much done, time to try some performance alignment specs!

 

This is on my 2010 LGT with the following suspension-related mods:

 

KW V1 102 45 015 coilovers

Cusco 692 311 B20 20mm rear swaybar with bushings

Whiteline KTA216A rear camber arms

Rota Gravel 18x8 ET42 with Bridgestone RE003 Potenza tires size 225 45 18

 

I wanted to try a conservative 1.5 front camber, 1.0 rear camber, 0 toe all around.

 

I ended up with the following:

Front:

Camber 1.36/1.36

Caster 5.52/5.46

Toe 0.0/0.0

 

Rear:

Camber 1.1/1.07

Toe 0.0/0.0

 

Max camber I could get on driver side front was 1.36 so I matched the left to it.

 

I tried it on a weekend resort trip up the mountains and yes, it improved things in the twisties. Better turn in, lots of grip in the curves, it was very confidence inspiring. Default is still understeer and it never felt twitchy or nervous, and this was with me really laying on it.

 

A few days driving around the city I noticed the car is influenced more easily by road crown and imperfections than with the factory settings. I'm correcting and adjusting more often.

 

I was concerned this would translate to less stability at speed, but it wasnt the case. I was able to get it well past 100mph for some long deserted stretches and it was drama free.

 

On a related note, brake upgrades really made pushing hard more enjoyable. I've overheated the retrofitted OEM STI Brembo setup to the point of juddering in some situations, the DBA T3 rotors and Stoptech Street Performance pads were subject to harder and never skipped a beat. Pedal feel with the Motul RBF fluid was consistent even in the hardest stops, too.