Share your alignment specs

[SJGT]

I'm embarrassed to even confirm this online - but this screenshot is my front only, right? They didn't give me rear specs -

 

 

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[Zee199969]

if we're gonna nitpick, the model year they list is wrong and the sensor is not level:confused:

[SJGT]

And if what GTeaser is saying is true - I shouldn't be happy with this alignment -

 

 

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[SJGT]

Yeah I'm happy to nitpick all day - if your going to pay somebody to do something - this is why I'm here - get rid of my ignorance

 

 

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[SJGT]

What's the significance of 0 toe vs -.07 ? Enough to bring up?

 

I'm more concerned about the .4 camber in the front right, and then the wrong model and out of balance sensor

 

 

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[GTEASER]

Yeah, any positive camber on the front isn't good. Your total toe between both fronts added together should be about the same as what one of those wheels has for a comfortable DD alignment, but IMO, a 0 toe would be better for spirited driving.

 

Also, just aligning the front isn't good on these cars. You gotta make both front and rear square with each other with the toe both front and rear so the rear wheels follow the fronts.

 

Look over the first couple pages of this thread and look what Percitus and aerophool posted.

[SJGT]

Just came back to get a 2nd run with both front and rear - started asking about the specs mentioned here and dude said - "yeah, your all good, that all only really matters with something like an STi"

 

Thanks bud - see ya never - stopped somewhere else for a 2nd alignment spec -

 

 

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[GTEASER]

Are you lowered?

 

Go in and tell them what you want and don't leave until they put it there. If you leave it up to them most of the alignment grunts think its good if its within the spec range, which is wide.

 

F/R Toe = 0

F Camber = between -.8 and -1.2, but both the same.

 

Your car will feel like a different car.

[SJGT]

Not lowered yet, no - which is why I was finding it difficult to equate other cars in this thread

 

Stopped at 2nd shop - this is the before - which should be the same as the after from the other shop - it's not

 

At least they for the model year right

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/05/4b9a524aa734aca745b5f18941323385.jpg

 

Previous shop

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/05/9d7519184190bc0b7368bc3482c54b99.jpg

 

I guess machine tolerance differences -

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited January 5, 2016 by SJGT

[GTEASER]

See why it's important to get all 4 wheels, especially since on AWD all 4 are driving the car. It was set up to crab walk a little on the driver's side.

[SJGT]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/05/7ca6ff5a6e70dd2ac07fc0f0979533be.jpg

 

So after 2nd alignment - things look ...better...they said they couldn't fix that right front side camber without the aftermarket bolt - but did say if I get it - they could install and redo alignment no charge to fix that

 

And then I can't even get the rear adjusted without some adjustable LCA's, right?

 

What would cause my right side to be so off from left ? Front and rear?

 

I think I just need to find a good shop

 

 

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[fredrik94087]

^^^ The name of the shop where you had the work done may have a lot to do with the front issue.

 

If they truly have no more room to give you some negative camber, you probably hit something and bent your control arm...in which case, you would replace it or any other part that may be damaged. If all parts are fine, it is the tech's inability.

 

You should be able to hit -1.5 degrees without any problem.

 

Yes, the rear needs adjustable LCA.

[GTEASER]

 

You should be able to hit -1.5 degrees without any problem with the stock camber bolt.

 

 

 

Yes, the rear needs adjustable LCA to even out the camber.

 

^^This and ^^^this.

 

As Fred mentioned, it looks like the front right lower control arm is possibly bent, or the front or rear bushing is very worn, indicated also by the caster number. Stock should be about 5.5 like the left side.

Edited January 6, 2016 by GTEASER

[SJGT]

so...one could make the argument that i need adjustable rear LCAs in order to correct unbalanced left to right rear camber? the result of which is not only poor handling, but unnecessary wear on tires ?

 

lob pitch for enabling here - someone swing -

 

i'm gonna stop back a 3rd time and ask about this front right side, basically get them to confirm something is bent, or their shop hand is inept

 

major thanks to everyone today - learning a ton as always

[GhiaAddict]

Super informative thread. I will be taking my car to Sears to get a free alignment and see what the car is spec'd at. Car is completely stock. On the highway at 80mph cruise control the car tracks pretty straight.

 

I intend on upgraded RSB, most likely Tein Basics, and whiteline front camber bolts. Only looking for 1.3-1.5" drop. Eliminate some fender gap.

[GTEASER]

Ghia....I highly doubt that you will need those Whiteline camber bolts.

 

SJGT....I only feel comfortable hitting a ground ball to enable a little. You really dont "need" rear adjustable LCAs, and tires really wont wear unevenly enough to be noticeable, but if you wanted to get some, I could certainly support the logic behind getting things into a more precise range all around.

Edited January 6, 2016 by GTEASER

[brandon.mol]

On stock springs/struts, its also possible the car is sitting crooked/lop-sided causing the cross-camber.

 

Check the ride height.

 

Also, its super super easy to check your camber with one of these: [ame=http://www.amazon.ca/Digi-Pas-DWL-80E-Pocket-Digital-Electronic/dp/B001NPJGL0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452066840&sr=1-2]Digi-Pas DWL-80E Mini Pocket Size Digital Level Electronic Angle Gauge, Black, Levels - Amazon Canada[/ame]

 

Accurate to 0.1 degrees. Very handy. You can just sit it on the car on a horizontal surface (like a strut-tower bar or the trunk lid in the middle), zero it, and the read your wheel camber directly.

 

Anyone who cares about their camber should get one.

[JT_36R]

Hi guys,

 

What alignment specs would you recommend for a DD with Bilstein struts,RCE Black springs, 26mm FSB and 19mm RSB. I do have adjustable rear LCA installed.

 

From what I've read, I'm thinking -1.2 to -1.5 in the fronts and -1.0 to -1.2 for the rears. 0 toe front and rear.

 

Thanks.

Edited June 6, 2016 by JT_36R
Cleaned up wording

[Perscitus]

Hi guys, What would alignment specs would you recommend for a DD with Bilstein struts, 26mm FSB and 19mm RSB. I do have adjustable rear LCA installed. From what I've read, I'm thinking -1.2 to -1.5 in the fronts and -1.0 to -1.2 for the rears. 0 toe front and rear. Thanks.

Correct. I'd go either:

 

Conservative:

Front Camber L/R: -1.0 or -1.2

Front Toe L/R: 0.00

 

Rear Camber L/R: -0.5 to -0.8 (adjustable rear LCAs might not allow you to go this low alone, check)

Rear Toe L/R: 0.00

 

Aggressive:

Front Camber L/R: -1.5 or -1.8

Front Toe L/R: 0.00

 

Rear Camber L/R: -1.0 or -1.2

Rear Toe L/R: 0.00

 

Typically you want 0 Toe, 0 Thrust Angle, and 0 Camber Split (not to be confused with Camber itself) on both axles

A bit of positive Toe, especially out back is fine. 0.0x or 0.xx even if the tech can't or won't dial in as close to 0.00 as possible.

 

Good read here:

For alignment, I've always liked this thread, and post in particular:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3506722&postcount=5

Edited June 6, 2016 by Perscitus

[fredrik94087]

^^^ those are about right for a 26mm/22mm F/R anti sway bars on a 3.6r with 5% more rear bias.

 

given the lack of "push", you may want even less camber in the rear or you will tend to understeer.

[sbao26975]

Took it in for the first alignment today - is that rear right camber number going to cause me issues? And does anything else look off?

 

http://i.imgur.com/E1qWFRO.jpg

[brandon.mol]

Are you lowered? I assume you have oem rear lower control arms. It looks to me like the rear of the car was sitting cooked with the right lower and the left higher.

 

0. 3 vs 2.7 camber would be VERY obvious, just eyeballing it. But half way in between, 1.2 either side ...ish...would be pretty standard.

 

I always say, poor to making any decisions about a weird set of alignment results:

 

1. Make sure you don't have a warped rim. That will totally screw your alignment results.

 

2. Get a second set of measurements at a second reputable shop.

Edited October 9, 2016 by brandon.mol

[sbao26975]

Are you lowered? I assume you have oem rear lower control arms. It looks to me like the rear of the car was sitting cooked with the right lower and the left higher.

 

0. 3 vs 2.7 camber would be VERY obvious, just eyeballing it. But half way in between, 1.2 either side ...ish...would be pretty standard.

 

I always say, poor to making any decisions about a weird set of alignment results:

 

1. Make sure you don't have a warped rim. That will totally screw your alignment results.

 

2. Get a second set of measurements at a second reputable shop.

 

No suspension mods besides a 19mm sway. Eyeballing that wheel now...it does look a little off. Hopefully this is something warranty will cover.

[02LGTSNJ]

Had new tires mounted and balanced over the weekend and got an alignment as well. Shop said they couldnt get camber dialed in on the front passenger side and that I needed new camber bolts.

[GTEASER]

^^ So our advice wasn't good enough in the other thread? There is no reason why they can't correct that RF camber, you should be able to get at least -1.5 out of the stock camber bolts. The tech didn't know what he was doing based on the toe and thrust angle numbers. Take it back and ask for it to be corrected. Rear should have as close to 0 toe as possible and that front camber should be -1 since you are lowered.