Share your alignment specs

[nstg8r]

Nice.

 

Hopefully, I can into AZP Wednesday or Thursday.

 

I haven't been able to post in a few days, but I was at AZP Thursday. They put it on their machine and said it only needed minor tweaking. The dealership had the front toe way off, so that was fixed. The right rear camber was right on the edge of spec at -1.9°, so AZP talked me out of putting in the Whiteline kit and instead it appears they adjusted the front left camber to be more negative to match the rears. That's what Perscitus had originally suggested.

 

 

AZP said pretty much what everyone else said here; instead of the Whiteline kit which is cheaper, but is a PITA to install and adjust, get a LCA kit which cost more but is a lot easier to install and adjust. In the long run, they said it would cheaper because it's a lot less labor, so maybe a set of Cusco LCA's are in my future.

[its_jayce]

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/o794/Jdmjayce/Mobile%20Uploads/EC07271A-5BFA-4225-9D0D-DD01FED46A71_zpskopxoapx.jpg' alt='EC07271A-5BFA-4225-9D0D-DD01FED46A71_zpskopxoapx.jpg'>

 

Have adjustable rear LCAs with BC coilovers. Running 18x9.5 wide enkei rpf1 wheels with 245/40. With the slight stretch on the tire it is rubbing a little on the rear fender with the camber at -1 degree at the height of where my car is, not slammed. Plan on doing a roll and running 255 tires. With the adjustments to my alignment made I was going for good tire wear, I take a few turns here and there and it hugs all the way through the turn.

[Swerve]

http://i62.tinypic.com/2cpqaug.jpg

On H&R springs and stock struts. Ordered Whiteline camber bolts for front, and have J2 rear lower control arms on the way. I'll be installing them this weekend, and getting another alignment.

[Swerve]

http://i62.tinypic.com/2iqd05t.jpg

New alignment after installing camber bolts and control arms.

[fredrik94087]

^^^ much better than before.

[BBPeik]

So I finally got my Bilsteins on Thursday. So my current setup is GTWorx Bilsteins, Eibach pro kit springs, and an eibach 22mm rear sway bar. I took it to get an alignment yesterday at a local place and I have to say I was very underwhelmed. The guy was not exactly competent and took forever. But anyway I will post the specs that I have after his alignment. I am going to be taking it to another place next week that is really good because I am just not happy with what I have. Please give me any thoughts on the current setup and where it would be best set.

 

Front: Left Right

Camber -.7 -.4

Caster 6.2 5.2

Toe 1/32 1/32

 

Rear: Left Right

Camber -1.8 -1.6

Toe 0 0

 

Thanks for any advice

Brendan

[Perscitus]

Youll want to pickup some rear LCAs with camber adjustment to dial that rear negative camber back.

 

By itself its not a bad thing, but your front camber should ideally be about -.25 to -.5 more than the back.

 

Id recommend Front Camber L/R -1.0 or -1.2

Rear camber L/R -.8 to -1.0

[BBPeik]

That is what I figured. Are there any preferences on the lca's. Better brand than another etc.

Thanks

Brendan

[StoplightAssassin]

More camber in the front. -1.5 is decent for a street alignment. Little less camber in the rear. Or you can keep your rear camber the same and try to get to -2.0 in the front. You may get some light inner tire wear towards the end of the tires life.

 

Is that front toe in or out?

 

I would add some rear toe in if this is mainly a street driven car.

[fredrik94087]

More camber in the front. -1.5 is decent for a street alignment. Little less camber in the rear. Or you can keep your rear camber the same and try to get to -2.0 in the front. You may get some light inner tire wear towards the end of the tires life.

 

Is that front toe in or out?

 

I would add some rear toe in if this is mainly a street driven car.

 

Since FSB is the 23mm (guessing since it is not a 2013) and rear is 22mm, there won't be as much push in the front.

 

A -1.5 camber in the front will do, but the best judge will be your seat of the pants feel when you corner.

 

Zero the toe. No need for it.

 

Why you have a one degree caster difference, I don't know. Should be within .1 or .2 degrees unless you have banged the car around. Can't be adjusted anyway.

[BBPeik]

The front toe is positive. So far the car drives pretty nice. It doesnt seem to twitchy at all and handles well. I would like a bit more oversteer though. I do not really have a problem with more negative camber in the front. Can I use the camber bushing kit in the rear like RCE sells? Anyone have experience with those kits? Good Bad?

As far as the caster I am not sure. The car is straight and has never been in an accident. All I can think is that one of the tophats is screwy or maybe a lca bushing is going bad.

 

I am going to take it to a good place soon, but I want to get what parts I may need to get it set up correctly. I also figure I should get some miles on it to let it settle a bit before I get a final alignment.

 

From what I have read on here it does need adjustment.

For final I am thinking

Front

camber -1.2

toe 0

Rear

Camber -.08

toe 0

These figures seem better in you guys experience?

 

Thanks again for the help.

I just want to make sure I get it right.

Brendan

[StoplightAssassin]

You don't want your DD to have a tendency to oversteer.

 

Going 0 toe all around helps the car turn in quicker, but the limited amount of camber means the car won't corner as hard as it could otherwise.

[fredrik94087]

You don't want your DD to have a tendency to oversteer.

 

Going 0 toe all around helps the car turn in quicker, but the limited amount of camber means the car won't corner as hard as it could otherwise.

 

Mostly yes.

 

You don't want oversteer out of the box. If you can have a relatively balanced car that allows you to induce oversteer, it is a good thing.

 

Toe out will be better for turning, but you don't want the extra tire wear on your DD.

 

I run -1.7 negative camber in the front and I have a relatively even wear.

 

0 toe has been just fine for me on the street and the track.

 

BBPeik: Getting your alignment dialed in is going to take some time. Tires do affect how your alignment is set. Going from 255 to 275 affected handling with the same alignment setting. A different compound will affect handling with the same alignment setting.

 

Your tires are part of your suspension whether you like it or not.

[StoplightAssassin]

Mostly yes.

 

You don't want oversteer out of the box. If you can have a relatively balanced car that allows you to induce oversteer, it is a good thing.

 

Toe out will be better for turning, but you don't want the extra tire wear on your DD.

 

 

Mostly yes?

 

You do realize that running toe out, especially in the rear, is setting the car up to oversteer and track poorly in a straight line.

 

The closer the amount of toe in or out is to 0, the less it will wear the tires.

 

Fwiw I run toe in in the rear of my LGT and it's fine at the track and on the street.

[fredrik94087]

Mostly yes?

 

You do realize that running toe out, especially in the rear, is setting the car up to oversteer and track poorly in a straight line.

 

The closer the amount of toe in or out is to 0, the less it will wear the tires.

 

Fwiw I run toe in in the rear of my LGT and it's fine at the track and on the street.

 

Yes, yes and yes on all three.

 

I wasn't recommending toe out.

 

Edit: I am not recommending toe in either. I have been fine with zero toe. Car is stable and does not wander. Some suggest toe in for better straight line stability.

Edited February 23, 2015 by fredrik94087

[BBPeik]

Thanks for all the replies

I know I dont want toe out in the rear. I am looking for zero to slight negative. As far as tires I know they will make a big difference as well. I will be getting different rims and tires in a couple months so I should probably just leave it until then. I definitely need to get the camber tweaked though.

Thanks again for all the help

The wealth of info on here is really great

[BadTrainDriver]

Thanks for all the replies

I know I dont want toe out in the rear. I am looking for zero to slight negative. As far as tires I know they will make a big difference as well. I will be getting different rims and tires in a couple months so I should probably just leave it until then. I definitely need to get the camber tweaked though.

Thanks again for all the help

The wealth of info on here is really great

 

Negative toe is toe out. In the rear, you want absolute zero, to error slightly on positive(in) toe.

[BBPeik]

Negative toe is toe out. In the rear, you want absolute zero, to error slightly on positive(in) toe.

 

That is what I meant. Sorry for the mistake.

Brendan

[bigstrusk]

Is there a rough consensus on how much front negative camber is achievable with the stock bolts?

[fredrik94087]

I went as far as -2.2 degrees, but I also had coilovers. You should be able to hit -1.8 no problem.

[bigstrusk]

Thanks for the info. I'm trying to settle on a permanent config. Currently the rear is sitting at -1 & -1.5, and I have camber bolts in the front set around -2.75 to -3. Looks nice, handles nice w/ my old RS2s and 20mm RSB, but I don't feel it's a sustainable DD setup. I'm not dropping the coin or effort on adjusting rear camber, so I'm leaning towards maxing out front camber w/ stock bolts and calling it a day. I know the balance won't be what I want, but I feel like I have to settle on that...

[fredrik94087]

Thanks for the info. I'm trying to settle on a permanent config. Currently the rear is sitting at -1 & -1.5, and I have camber bolts in the front set around -2.75 to -3. Looks nice, handles nice w/ my old RS2s and 20mm RSB, but I don't feel it's a sustainable DD setup. I'm not dropping the coin or effort on adjusting rear camber, so I'm leaning towards maxing out front camber w/ stock bolts and calling it a day. I know the balance won't be what I want, but I feel like I have to settle on that...

 

I would suggest the whiteline 22mm RSB and adjustable rear lower control arms. Get both rears at -1, fronts at -1.5 and run the 22mm bar at middle setting see how you like it.

 

If that is too much, just get the 22mm RSB and dial back the front negative camber a bit...whatever fits your budget.

 

I ran -2.2 front camber at the track and that was plenty. You shouldn't need -3 degrees up front.

[bigstrusk]

Thanks for the advice. My budget right now is 0 for suspension, so i think I'm going to set front at -2.0 for now and see how it goes. I'll leave the camber bolts in for this.

[SJGT]

With my tire blowing out and quickly needing an install/alignment of winters - I didn't have much time to read - and have very little if any knowledge of these alignment specs - suspension is all stock - and winter tires are same as stock at 225/45/18 - anything to be concerned about or question here - should/would there be any difference for winter vs summer tire alignment - the sheet I got was different than the others I see on here - so tough for me to compare until I learn what I'm doing - any help much appreciated -

 

Nothing but a daily driver - and I cook through a lot of highway miles

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/05/d56c89011b9bdd0d470b74705a5b892d.jpg

 

 

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[GTEASER]

You want about -0.5 to -1.0 camber in the front, and 0 toe all around, maybe a hair toe-in in the front only. Front caster and rear camber are what they are, just note what they are.