dgoodhue Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 It will probably bolt in and work without the long tab going up the fender. The other bolt should keep the headlight securely mounted. Its not the way the factory mounted them and not ideal. The long tab has 2 mounting holes. I think furthest hole on the fender is more for keep the headlights aligned during installation than anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 what do you guys think? should I order another pair of these from the same company or order the Anzo ones which are gonna be more expensive but they're the same thing. Like I mentioned I reached out to the company and they said it was a manufacturing defect and that they hadn't had that problem with those headlights before. I need feedback please what about these? I think some members have bought these with good results http://www.protuninglab.com/hidxe20suoul.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=140850936778 My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lzlegacy12 Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 They're actually the same ones lol just different website Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unsp0kn Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 So first of all on the picture it shows the hinges on the top of the headlights and when I got it, it didn't come on there so it was lose on from the top. Next thing, there was a ballast that was needed to be removed in order to get the headlights in, no biggy there. Also I was able to get the left hand side (drivers side) in but the right side (passengers side) did not want to go in because the dust cover cap of the high beams were obstructing the metal bar of the frame itself. That being said, I tried pushing them in so that they would close in order for me to put the screws back in but it just didn't work. I didn't want to force them especially because the u-bars were not DRL. It was plug and play but like I said the right side was not fitting nor the u-bars were DRL. Are the Anzo's the same? Or are those u-bars actually DRL? Please let me know thanks! They will work, you just have to massage the metal on the passenger side. Trust me, they fit. The u-bars will never be DRL unless you get clever with the wiring. They are parking lights technically. Also those upper mount tabs should be in the boxes with some screws to attach them. Again, Anzo = Eagle Eyes/Eagle Eyes = Anzo. Exact same lights coming from the same factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lzlegacy12 Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Thank you very much for the feedback Unsp0kn. What do you mean by massage the metal part? Are you saying to force them in somehow?? Did you put them in already? I would like to see some pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unsp0kn Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Thank you very much for the feedback Unsp0kn. What do you mean by massage the metal part? Are you saying to force them in somehow?? Did you put them in already? I would like to see some pictures I've had them in since last summer. I bent the metal a bit with a mallet, couple whacks and it gave enough room to get the light to fit. I'll get some pics under the hood, this is all I have right now. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd175/EvolutionEleven/Facebook/Storm%20%2011%20LGT%20Limited/14289974_10100929243420934_6781629173720680001_o.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soba noodle Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Unlike the OEM lights the top mounting tabs on CrystalEyes are removable and held by two screws. The tabs should've been included with the lights when you bought them. If I leave my parking lights on when I turn the ignition off the U-bars will go on next time I turn the ignition on again. Low beams do not have to be on at all so I can essentially run the U-bars only (or together with fog lights). Contemplating whether I want to have them on automatically when the ignition is on - how do you wire that it, any write-ups? I also did not have to "massage" anything - they fit like a glove, might be another specific of USDM models Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unsp0kn Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Could be that our fronts are a bit different on the fitment, but they will fit with very little work. As for wiring the u-bars as DRLs, it would likely involve splicing the factory DRL wires off the resistor and connecting them to the u-bar wiring. I've thought about giving it a go, but I probably won't be taking my front bumper off again anytime soon. Maybe one day when I decide to add side marker lights to these since there isn't one, which is kind of bogus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soba noodle Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Mine does not have factory DRL wiring as far as I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therick3 Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Spent an afternoon on this a couple of summers ago. I removed the DRL resistor all together and wired up a relay instead. I also wired the relay to one of the parking light leads. The U bars light up as DRLs and as parking lights. Had to run a separate power lead to the UBars and the relay controls the ground wire. Has been working for a few years but is not so pretty under the bumper Unfortunately no wiring diagrams to share but maybe that will get you going... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quipstad Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 lzlegacy12, I had similar trouble with the passenger side. In fact, I tried to force the fit at first and ended up breaking the upper mounting tab because the fit was so tight - it just snapped off because there was too much tension on it. All due to the metal bracket that is pushing on the high beam dust cover. I used some vice grips to bend the trailing edge of the metal bracket, and now it fits without forcing (I also fixed the mounting tab with a piece of sheet metal). My U-bars are not wired as DRLs; they are wiring as the parking light. And I still had the annoying dim high-beam as my DRL, so I disabled the DRLs entirely. I plan to rewire the U-bars so they come on with the ignition. All in all I really like these headlights, but there are some frustrations that may push me to modification. 1. The U-bars are not very bright. I may add some LED strips behind the bars so they are more effective DRLs and so they are actually visible in broad daylight. 2. The high beams are crap, and I couldn't get the driver's side aimed high enough before the reflector fell off the vertical adjustment screw. Now it's aimed at the ground. I will have to take it apart to fix it, and I may just put a set of bi-xenon projectors in the high beams (a bigger project that I don't want to tackle right now). 3. The turn signals are NOT visible from the side unless it's the dead of night, so no one directly next to me can see if I am signaling. I might add something in the corner reflectors so I have some side-visibility. Other than that, I really love these headlights. Mostly because my D2S bulbs look GREAT in the "halogen" projectors, which really seem designed for HID. As promised (though delayed), photos to follow in next post! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quipstad Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 (edited) ANZO headlights with Morimoto 50W HIDs - Here are the pictures! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247244&d=1491407329 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247245&d=1491407329 Showing the D2S bulbs in the H7 socket. I did bend the tabs inward a bit in the middle so they held the bulbs a bit more firmly. No wiggling whatsoever! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247246&d=1491407329 Beam pattern against the wall in my basement. A little centrally-focused but all the better for throwing light down the road! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247247&d=1491407329 (for comparison only) beam pattern of Morimoto FX-R projectors that have served me very well. These definitely have better side coverage but in a driving comparison the difference is not of notable significance. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247248&d=1491407329 Beam pattern & cutoff following installation and aiming. Now that I've been driving with these for about a week, I can say they do a great job of lighting up the road at night. I'm really impressed with these! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247249&d=1491407329 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247250&d=1491407329 Edited April 5, 2017 by quipstad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lzlegacy12 Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 Okay now I got a new set of the CG Eagle eyes headlights and I got to fit them in just with a bending the metal part just slightly actually & now I need to adjust the beam pattern. Do y'all know how to do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lzlegacy12 Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 Quipstad, how did you do the morimoto 50 w HIDs? How much did they cost? Right now I have the stock "halogen" projector on the Eagle eyes and have LEDs on them and they look great! But I do need to align the beam pattern cuz it's aiming down instead of the correct one. Do y'all know how to aim them correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quipstad Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 There are 2 screws per bulb on the back of the assembly for adjustment. If you want to get at them while the headlights are installed, I recommend a 12" flexible driver with a 1/4 hex bit. Some of them would be really difficult to get at with a regular screwdriver. That way you can get it lined up and use a drill to turn it one way or the other while you watch the line move up/down or left/right. I believe it's $150 for a set of 50W ballasts and bulbs from TheRetrofitSource. I recommend 6k bulbs if going 50W because the higher wattage will result in a warmer color temperature. 6k @ 50w got me very close to pure white with just a slight hint of blue. It was a direct fit for the D2S bulbs in the H7 halogen projectors. To power the ballasts I hooked directly into the stock wiring for the low beam bulbs (the wires inside the headlights that go to the H7 bulb). The latest ballasts from TRS do a great job on stock wiring with no flickering whatsoever and no failures to ignite even though I'm not using a relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lzlegacy12 Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 thanks for the adjustments but how are they supposed to be aligned? any pictures? So you got HID kits then is that what you're saying? you didn't retrofit them or anything? can you put the link of the ones you bought? so pretty much an HID D2S kit at 50W 6k? nothing else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soba noodle Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 What do you guys have stamped on yours? http://i.imgur.com/AZeJjVD.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unsp0kn Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 (edited) What do you guys have stamped on yours? http://i.imgur.com/AZeJjVD.jpg SAE AHRI4PP2Y2 06 DOT VOL HB3 Litek SR044 SR041 Same as yours. I picked mine up second hand but brand new off eBay for $150 and had to swap the plugs off my OEM light harness onto these. It wasn't too hard, but did have me discouraged at first. Running the wiring for the projector motors was pretty easy and I used a BRZ switch that popped right into my switch panel. Edited April 7, 2017 by Unsp0kn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikewrx-nj Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Does anyone have an video of the blinkers during day/night? I'm concerned about the visibility of the blinker bar. It might actually make sense to setup a circuit to switch off the U-Bar while the blinker is engaged to make it more visible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 are the newer ones LED bars instead of CCFL? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_A_ron Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Does anyone have an video of the blinkers during day/night? I'm concerned about the visibility of the blinker bar. It might actually make sense to setup a circuit to switch off the U-Bar while the blinker is engaged to make it more visible. I've had these headlights on for a couple weeks. My housings are black including the LED reflectors. Basically if you are anywhere except directly in front they are dull. If you are in front the are pretty visible. Build Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_A_ron Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Also here is what mine look like with the modified ubars and custom LED boards. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk Build Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_A_ron Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Forgot to attach pictures Build Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Where do you get the custom U Bars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Where do you get the custom U Bars? likely from Ken Brennan on the FB group. I know he is on here too but I forget his username My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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