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quipstad

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    Baltimore
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    2013 Outback 2.5 Premium 6spd

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  1. There are 2 screws per bulb on the back of the assembly for adjustment. If you want to get at them while the headlights are installed, I recommend a 12" flexible driver with a 1/4 hex bit. Some of them would be really difficult to get at with a regular screwdriver. That way you can get it lined up and use a drill to turn it one way or the other while you watch the line move up/down or left/right. I believe it's $150 for a set of 50W ballasts and bulbs from TheRetrofitSource. I recommend 6k bulbs if going 50W because the higher wattage will result in a warmer color temperature. 6k @ 50w got me very close to pure white with just a slight hint of blue. It was a direct fit for the D2S bulbs in the H7 halogen projectors. To power the ballasts I hooked directly into the stock wiring for the low beam bulbs (the wires inside the headlights that go to the H7 bulb). The latest ballasts from TRS do a great job on stock wiring with no flickering whatsoever and no failures to ignite even though I'm not using a relay.
  2. ANZO headlights with Morimoto 50W HIDs - Here are the pictures! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247244&d=1491407329 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247245&d=1491407329 Showing the D2S bulbs in the H7 socket. I did bend the tabs inward a bit in the middle so they held the bulbs a bit more firmly. No wiggling whatsoever! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247246&d=1491407329 Beam pattern against the wall in my basement. A little centrally-focused but all the better for throwing light down the road! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247247&d=1491407329 (for comparison only) beam pattern of Morimoto FX-R projectors that have served me very well. These definitely have better side coverage but in a driving comparison the difference is not of notable significance. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247248&d=1491407329 Beam pattern & cutoff following installation and aiming. Now that I've been driving with these for about a week, I can say they do a great job of lighting up the road at night. I'm really impressed with these! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247249&d=1491407329 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=247250&d=1491407329
  3. lzlegacy12, I had similar trouble with the passenger side. In fact, I tried to force the fit at first and ended up breaking the upper mounting tab because the fit was so tight - it just snapped off because there was too much tension on it. All due to the metal bracket that is pushing on the high beam dust cover. I used some vice grips to bend the trailing edge of the metal bracket, and now it fits without forcing (I also fixed the mounting tab with a piece of sheet metal). My U-bars are not wired as DRLs; they are wiring as the parking light. And I still had the annoying dim high-beam as my DRL, so I disabled the DRLs entirely. I plan to rewire the U-bars so they come on with the ignition. All in all I really like these headlights, but there are some frustrations that may push me to modification. 1. The U-bars are not very bright. I may add some LED strips behind the bars so they are more effective DRLs and so they are actually visible in broad daylight. 2. The high beams are crap, and I couldn't get the driver's side aimed high enough before the reflector fell off the vertical adjustment screw. Now it's aimed at the ground. I will have to take it apart to fix it, and I may just put a set of bi-xenon projectors in the high beams (a bigger project that I don't want to tackle right now). 3. The turn signals are NOT visible from the side unless it's the dead of night, so no one directly next to me can see if I am signaling. I might add something in the corner reflectors so I have some side-visibility. Other than that, I really love these headlights. Mostly because my D2S bulbs look GREAT in the "halogen" projectors, which really seem designed for HID. As promised (though delayed), photos to follow in next post!
  4. I don't know much about the CrystalEye model but I would be very surprised if the projectors are actually designed for HID. However they do claim to include an electric leveling motor, which is even more surprising. If anyone purchases these, I would be interested to know more about them. At only $485 though, it raises a lot of red flags about quality, accuracy of their claims, etc.
  5. I have 6000K but with 50w ballasts, which gets me back down to 5000K or maybe 5500K. I like the higher wattage ballasts because I get much quicker warm-up time than when I use 35w.
  6. lzlegacy12, the links you posted (Amazon & protuninglab) seem to be the cheaper knockoffs not made by Anzo. Maybe they are identical, maybe not; I can't confirm. I'd like to think the genuine ones I spent a few hundred more on would be superior Thanks for the recommendation on the clips - those are the exact ones I bought! Will have pictures up this weekend - if not Saturday night then definitely sometime Sunday.
  7. Will do! I am so pumped but I'm waiting for some new (slightly slimmer) ballasts to come in and waiting for a warm day. I expect it to take me a few expletive-filled hours to get the grill/bumper off and remove the old assemblies. These things never seem to go smoothly for me. I should probably buy some extra push-clips as it's almost guaranteed I will break a few.
  8. I know this thread has been quiet for almost 2 years, but I couldn't find anywhere else these headlights are being discussed for the Legacy/Outback. First, I want to mention that I am talking about the $700ish Anzo headlight assemblies, not the $400ish knockoffs that come with an el-cheapo HID kit. These headlights are described as having H7 halogen projectors (low beams) but I discovered something I would feel guilty in not sharing. I have some genuine D2S bulbs from an old custom headlight project I did, and I found that they PERFECTLY fit the H7 projectors in the Anzo headlights. The bulb bases look very different but all the tabs and spaces are in the right place and I didn't have to force anything. The real miracle was when I flipped them on. The beam pattern is fantastic! 80% of the output is focused directly below/at the cutoff line, so these will give wonderful distance coverage with no foreground glare. An extra bonus is that the bottom of these assemblies have a removable panel with a perfect space for the ballast (the compartment is about 25mm deep and generous with the other dimensions). It really seems like these Anzos were made for professional HID's; I don't know why they are not marketed as such. This has been a truly amazing experience for me and I can't wait to install them in my Outback this Saturday! I'm happy to post pics of the beam pattern and bulb fitment / bulb base comparison for any skeptics.
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