soba noodle

HKS Silent Hi-Power Ti Limited

She's slowly getting there

Back to stock and sold Replaced with this:

What do you guys have stamped on yours? http://i.imgur.com/AZeJjVD.jpg

Mine does not have factory DRL wiring as far as I know.

Unlike the OEM lights the top mounting tabs on CrystalEyes are removable and held by two screws. The tabs should've been included with the lights when you bought them. If I leave my parking lights on when I turn the ignition off the U-bars will go on next time I turn the ignition on again. Low beams do not have to be on at all so I can essentially run the U-bars only (or together with fog lights). Contemplating whether I want to have them on automatically when the ignition is on - how do you wire that it, any write-ups? I also did not have to "massage" anything - they fit like a glove, might be another specific of USDM models

U-bars only go on when the parking lights or fogs are on, they do not go on automatically.

They come as you see them - do not have to install/modify anything (apart from transferring the ballasts over). It's possible to modify RHD to LHD, not super easy though see here for example. Have to modify cutoff curtain/plate. Silver box is Thule Spirit 1600 and the black one is Hapro Carver 6.5

Ex Japan. They're JDM/RHD only as far as I know. NB: true colour is white, not pinkish, white balance is a bit off/chromatic aberrations

I have CrystalEyes. Front and rear. And yes, they do have auto leveling - works perfectly. HID stock ballasts go into precisely the same compartment as on the stock HID headlights. Basically you move the ballasts over and off you go laughing, plug'n'play. No issues with the quality either. Any more red flags?

What's the difference between this Anzo stuff and CrystalEye? CrystalEye come set-up for HID, take stock ballasts etc so I suppose they will also have HID projectors?

Work 11R

To be honest I'd done a fair bit of Guinea pigging myself before I came across this thread - started with transferring gold GD Impreza calipers from my old BLE - front was fine, rears with adapters not so. Hunted some spec.C GRB calipers and turned out I need different rear rotors too as standard 5x100 Brembo rotors are too deep/tall...

Thread revival , thank you for the info guys, was really helpful to complete the task. My setup: GRB STI Spec.C calipers and braided lines DBA T2 slotted front/rear Dixcel type M pads

That's probably why it says inner and outer... Need more clues?...

No none at all.

I'd love to but finding the same seat in passenger version will be pretty lucky.. might just buy a lotto ticket Surprisingly it doesn't bug me as much as I thought I'd be. The comfort is definitely winning.

Mine was bagless to start with so wasn't an issue (sorted with one resistor anyway). Wiring is really easy too - recaro only has two wires.

No way I'd pay THAT much for a seat! To add to the crazyness you'll also need to buy a special wiring harness for another JPY10k.

K2Gear Reiz Sports Steering 355 STI by Recaro seat 6404021020 aka Recaro Sport Topline

It's exhaust time again, a bit more complex now. Japanese mild steel headers + 2.5" pipework + 3rd cat delete 2.5" mid section with 400mm AdrenalinR resonator 2.5" stainless Y-section HKS ES Premium mufflers Got the headers a while ago, they came on a freshly imported 3.0 and were removed by a dealer, no name and reckon these were made up for someone in Japan. Other alternatives: Raptor headers from Australia or K2Gear from Japan (bloody expensive and nearly impossible to find used). Custom collectors, otherwise stock.Then I managed to find a stainless 2.5" all the way through mid-Y section that needed some modifications on the mufflers' side. And came up with a plan to build my own exhaust... Pipe in a pipe - this is what you'll find inside your main pipes past the cats, rather silly: Spiral louvre baffles inside AdrenalinR resonator: Let the fun part begin

Indeed!

Haha yeah noticed that too