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Official 3.6R Mod List


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quick question. has anyone logged oil temps over 100 degrees Celsius on their legacy 3.6R ? also has anyone heard of a Subaru with avcs that shuts off at 100c? we did some data logging on the dyno and discovered that as soon as oil temp hits 100c on the dot avcs cuts out and won't turn back on until you restart the car. Interesting discovery.
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Budget?

 

Budget? What's that?

 

I'm thinking about going with Centric rotors paired with Hawk HPS pads & Goodridge SS lines. Figure it will run me ~$500 before installation. Of course, I'll have to find somewhere to install them (most likely AZP).

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quick question. has anyone logged oil temps over 100 degrees Celsius on their legacy 3.6R ? also has anyone heard of a Subaru with avcs that shuts off at 100c? we did some data logging on the dyno and discovered that as soon as oil temp hits 100c on the dot avcs cuts out and won't turn back on until you restart the car. Interesting discovery.

 

I didn't think we could log oil temps. It's not available on my UltraGauge.

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Okay, so my brakes have started to squeal a lot at ~53K miles. For a DD, what rotors & pads do I want?

 

Stoptech Slotted Sport Rotors front and rear, $328.94.

Carbotech 1521 Pads front and rear, $271.

Goodridge SS Brake Lines, $114.96.

 

This is a great setup!

 

http://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-items/1381_2012+Subaru+Legacy+Sedan+-+2.5+GT%2C+3.6+R

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Stoptech Slotted Sport Rotors front and rear, $328.94.

Carbotech 1521 Pads front and rear, $271.

Goodridge SS Brake Lines, $114.96.

 

This is a great setup!

 

http://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-items/1381_2012+Subaru+Legacy+Sedan+-+2.5+GT%2C+3.6+R

 

List approved! Some rotor options for consideration from recommended vendor KNS:

http://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-items/880_2010+Subaru+Legacy+Sedan+-+2.5+GT%2C+3.6+R//5_Brake+Rotors

 

So blink options with slotted and function on Centric Premiums.

 

Pads - you will enjoy the performance of the Carbotec 1512s (bobcats). They cost a little more. If cost is a somewaht consideration, I'd pick Centric premium rotors and the 1512s over bling rotors and different pads.

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Install wise do it yourself it's literally the easiest thing you can do maintenance wise other than an oil change

 

I've never done a brake job, so it's probably something I don't wanna do by myself, especially putting in the SS lines.

 

I 99% sure on getting the Centric Premium rotors. For pads, it's either the Hawk HPS or the new Hawk HPS 5.0.

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quick question. has anyone logged oil temps over 100 degrees Celsius on their legacy 3.6R ? also has anyone heard of a Subaru with avcs that shuts off at 100c? we did some data logging on the dyno and discovered that as soon as oil temp hits 100c on the dot avcs cuts out and won't turn back on until you restart the car. Interesting discovery.

bump?.?

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bump?.?

I was playing around and noticed that if I switch back and forth between Fahrenheit and Celsius on Rom raider at the same time with the car warmed up it reports 205f and 100c oil temps. That doesn't match my memory of middle school math. Wouldn't 100c = 212f? I know its not that much but still not extremely accurate. Fyi after spirited driving and extended idling I never went higher than 100c and 205f.

Edited by stevenc1703
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I checked my logs. My oil temps were in the 90's. I didn't get anything at or above 100c.

 

On a side note. I stopped in at Dietschwerks to plan next items on my short list.

 

I asked about a catch can (thanks Nstg8r). Rob looked at the two lines and tested them. It appears I only need to vent the tube that is connected just before the Throttle Body.

 

News-flash for the rest of you. There was some oil in the line that goes back into the AFE Takeda intake just before the throttle body.

 

Catch can is next along with throttle body cleaning and manifold cleaning.

 

Things are making some sense, and I hope this is the only reason. When I dynoed with 100 octane in May (before any track days), I dynoed about 4whp higher than I dynoed a week ago at 100 octane (with LWCP). I am hoping it is not a result of thrashing it at the track (which may be part of the reason).

 

Cheers!

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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I asked about a catch can (thanks Nstg8r). Rob looked at the two lines and tested them. It appears I only need to vent the tube that is connected just before the Throttle Body.

 

 

I put my catch can between the PCV valve and the manifold.

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I asked about a catch can (thanks Nstg8r). Rob looked at the two lines and tested them. It appears I only need to vent the tube that is connected just before the Throttle Body.

 

News-flash for the rest of you. There was some oil in the line that goes back into the AFE Takeda intake just before the throttle body.

 

Catch can is next along with throttle body cleaning and manifold cleaning.

 

This is my next concern after I do the BG and oil change. How do you plan on cleaning the manifold and are you gonna polish the throttle body? Will you use a new gasket on the manifold or reuse the old one? Couldn't we just disconnect the vacuum line and run it to the ground instead of an inline filter? I'm anxious to get my engine cleaned up, I had put a bottle of seafoam through the intake and a bottle of chevron tecron through the tank then I changed the oil and instant noticed a performance improvement and knocking completely stopped. I think I still have some dirt here and there because I checked the intake manifold with my finger and it was black.

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