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Ok I misunderstood. Also you said that afr's are more than 12 never leaner, I run as low as 11.12 it seems with my car richer at wot ran better, do dyno results show otherwise?
Good question - this would be something AMR or any of our tuners would have to answer.

 

Richer (unless pig rich) is definitely safer and for sc/turbo'ed tunes its recommended and more optimal. For NA, typically 12.8:1 to maybe 12.4:1 is the theoretical sweet spot for power. But how that vibes with the 3.6R (if running richer at WOT gives more power) is ?.

 

I was only going by the measured vs commanded AFR difference.

On my car, prior to the header install, the car always ran somewhat richer than what the ECU/tune was commanding. Say commanded AFR of 12.6, actual was in the mid 11s, commanded AFR of 11.9 - actual measured in the low 11s, high 10s even! Car ran fine though and made good power (butt dyno).

 

With the headers, and latest re-tune, the difference between commanded and measure AFRs is just much smaller. So I take that as a good thing.

 

Prior to the re-tune with the headers and new exhaust on, the car ran very rich and as a result lost power.

By very rich I assume Rob was seeing 10.x:1 or maybe even 9.x:1.

 

If I had left AMR's shop without a re-tune it would run but the power loss would be there plus my MPGs would likely reflect the rich AFRs.

Edited by Perscitus
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^^^ looks like a bucket...good luck!

 

Perscitus, do you have a dyno sheet from your latest tune, and if possible, please post your old dyno sheet as well.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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^^^ looks like a bucket...good luck! Perscitus, do you have a dyno sheet from your latest tune, and if possible, please post your old dyno sheet as well.
These are about 8" long; 6" wide - sitting on my dinner table. The filter on the left that we're going to fit with AMR has a 5.5" outlet that will velocity stack down to 3" ahead of a straight section of high density cross-linked polyethylene.

 

The filter element will live in a matching polyethylene barrel/bucket style airbox with a long section of polyethylene pipe leading down to the ram air ductwork we've setup with nst8gr.

 

Dyno sheet - posted in this thread maybe 3 pages back now. Old dyno sheets are up in my build thread (which I have to update, slacking on that a bit).

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These are about 8" long; 6" wide - sitting on my dinner table. The filter on the left that we're going to fit with AMR has a 5.5" outlet that will velocity stack down to 3" ahead of a straight section of high density cross-linked polyethylene.

 

The filter element will live in a matching polyethylene barrel/bucket style airbox with a long section of polyethylene pipe leading down to the ram air ductwork we've setup with nst8gr.

 

Dyno sheet - posted in this thread maybe 3 pages back now. Old dyno sheets are up in my build thread (which I have to update, slacking on that a bit).

 

 

Correct...page 100 for me. I need to get page 1 updated with a handful of stuff and I'm completely lost.... Maybe this weekend....

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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I've 'created' two custom PIDs to use in Torque/Torque Pro.

What they do is add the STFT and LTFT per bank of cylinders up and report as one %.

 

This is useful both for a quick glance of what's going on, data logging (2 columns instead of 4 that need to be added up later) and to

reduce on-screen clutter (1 element for 4 cylinder cars, 2 for our H6s - instead of all 4 earlier).

 

Torque allows you to setup custom PIDs off of original/exposed PIDs by performing simple math operations on them (in this case addition of two known PIDs) so I did just that. Works like a charm!

 

Rule of thumb to see if your combined fuel trims (STFT+LTFT per bank of cylinders) are 'within spec' (lol):

 

Low load, <15% throttle: +/-20%, ideally +/-10%

High load, >15% throttle: +/-10%, ideally +/-5%

High load, WOT: +/-5%, ideally close to 0%

*close to 0% indicates a 'perfect' base fuel map value for a given load cell location

While here, check if your Bank 1 and Bank 2 %s differ.

You might see a fairly constant fuel trim diff ('offset') of 2 to 5% between Bank 1 and Bank 2 (with Bank 2% < Bank 1%).

If they're dead on and respond the same to throttle input - lucky! - I'd love to see some logs!

My fuel trims are and have always been ~+2.7% offset, regardless of mods, stage, tunes etc.

With the average of Bank 1 fuel trim always about 2.7% richer than Bank 2.

 

I also took the time to scan all the memory addresses on the regular OBDII interface using the 'Torque Scan' plugin - with the engine running and just the ignition switched on. I was unable to find any additional PIDs. This way we know there are no extra PIDs using the regular protocol. All the cool stuff is using the Subaru custom protocols on CAN, and we can't get to it without special tools/licenses to access them. Bummer.

Screenshot_2014-10-26-21-49-52_resized_1.thumb.jpg.c6b39c42d2b5f022b3bcfd4d0735b2d1.jpg

Screenshot_2014-10-26-21-49-02_resized_2.jpg.5aa065c272f8bbbeebdccd4939676d31.jpg

Screenshot_2014-10-26-21-49-09_resized_2.jpg.f51abbc01d6ba6feda80b194a65493fa.jpg

Edited by Perscitus
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Here is a video of my car going 0-90, It's slightly uphill. Watch "Subaru 3.6r 0-90 XTREME RACING TUNING" on YouTube Subaru 3.6r 0-90 XTREME RACING TUNING:
Very nice! The shift points and gear transitions looked/sounded very good - I can almost 'hear' the difference. Impressive!
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No real difference. According to a frame by Frame break down it's 0-60 in 5.2 secs 0-80 in 10 flat and 0-90 in 12.2. Light weight crank pulley going on Saturday so these times should get better, plus I have a tune with more timing that I can't currently run because of knock but I should be able to when I get some VP 109 for my drag race in November. Edited by stevenc1703
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Also I've got the sub in the trunk, my kids car seats, and different junk in the car that will be removed plus the spare, rear seat, and maybe passengers seat will be removed for less weight. The guys at work are racing and we are gonna rank ourselves. I'm going up against a ls1 GTO, 91 5.0 lx mustang, 2013 5.0 GT mustang and who knows what else maybe a modded evo x, I can't be last, they already call my car the granny mobile. Lol
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I put the crankshaft pulley on but it had a little play around the key, not much but some. Being as much of a worry wort as I am I was looking very close at the new crank pulley to make sure that every thing is good and I noticed a very slight wobble almost like the pulley is not perfectly round. Is this something to be worried about and is it from the play on the key?
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I put the crankshaft pulley on but it had a little play around the key, not much but some. Being as much of a worry wort as I am I was looking very close at the new crank pulley to make sure that every thing is good and I noticed a very slight wobble almost like the pulley is not perfectly round. Is this something to be worried about and is it from the play on the key?

 

Mine has zero wobble and is as tight as can be.

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Mine has zero wobble and is as tight as can be.

Looking closer I think the wobble is at the center cap and my eyes saw it as the whole pulley. I torqued it to 144ft-lbs, not an easy task, and the tensioner doesn't move at all so I think I'm good. Here is a video of the pulley. Watch "Ez36 crankshaft pulley" on YouTube

Ez36 crankshaft pulley:

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