Takeda 3.6R Intake Review

[Rutchard]

I'd be careful not to introduce too much turbulence right before the MAF sensor, it could skew the readings.

[nstg8r]

I think if you take of another 3/4" to 1" off the stock box you might have a better fit.

[nadracer]

There wouldn't be enough for the coupling on the OEM box to cling to if it was shorter. There less than it looks underneath for the coupling from being secured tighter. The angle on the plenum from the stock box is very different than Takeda which makes it so off.

 

I think if you take of another 3/4" to 1" off the stock box you might have a better fit.

Edited January 4, 2014 by nadracer

[nadracer]

That is exactly what I wrote about earlier in this thread suspecting about the ultimate performance here.

 

 

I'd be careful not to introduce too much turbulence right before the MAF sensor, it could skew the readings.

[nstg8r]

So, the problem with the Takeda box and aFe filter is too much air being sucked into the intake?

[nadracer]

"Problem" is such a harsh word. There is no problem, I'm trying to figure out how it could be better. Might be by a tune, mixing parts, lengthening/twisting this or that.

 

 

So, the problem with the Takeda box and aFe filter is too much air being sucked into the intake?

[nstg8r]

"Problem" is such a harsh word. There is no problem, I'm trying to figure out how it could be better. Might be by a tune, mixing parts, lengthening/twisting this or that.

 

Okay, thanks. Just wanted to know before I do my install. Incidentally, I do have the HKS funnel already installed on my car, so I should be able to give you some feedback with the combination of the HKS and Takeda.

 

As far as air flow goes, I'm sure there are ways to restrict it, if necessary, and still use the full Takeda setup.

[fredrik94087]

Nadracer: Thanks for checking different fitments. Its good to know we have a few configuration options.

 

I will have to wait until end of Jan to get mine...and then a few more weeks to find out where I gained/lost.

Edited January 5, 2014 by fredrik94087

[nstg8r]

Just finished the install. I found the instructions a little off the mark, but I figured out my way around them.

 

1st: They missed a bolt that holds the factory intake tube to the bracket that holds the engine cover. It's to the left of the throttle body and needs to be removed (not needed for the Takeda, but save it so you can go back to stock).

 

2nd: When installing the new clips into the Takeda housing, tape them in place until you're ready to secure them. I had to go fishing for one of them after it fell out.

 

3rd: The trim seal was a PITA, so I cut it into three pieces and installed it around the three long edges. It's just there to keep the housing from being loose and rattling. It does nothing to actually seal the housing.

 

4th: Maybe I received the wrong part with my order, but mine has a cutout on the side of the housing nearest to the fender that allows air into the air box. It's no big deal, I just now have three separate openings in the air box (stock intake, HKS funnel & Takeda box). Nadracer, can you comment on that? Also, I didn't have to modify my stock box to get the Takeda to fit, but I did have to loosen the bottom bolt so I would have more room.

 

5th: It would probably have been easier to install the elbow coupling onto the Takeda box prior to putting it in place.

 

6th: I left the engine cover off because broken. Not a good idea to remove it when it's 25F out.

[nadracer]

There is a cutout on mine but as I said earlier in the post the Takeda really doesn't use the other half of the stock box for anything other than something to lean on since it has no way of supporting itself otherwise. I may close off the hole for the milk jug eventually.

 

As for the filing I did, I didn't loosen the bolts since I did not want this to bounce around under hard throttle. That does make putting it in a little harder but I don't have to worry about it popping off. I did however want the Takeda box to slide in/out easier so I filed the plastic for the tabs to fit in better. The seal I didn't cut into pieces I did however slice it a little on the edge so it would bend easier around the corners; it's still one long continuous piece.

 

Fitting the tubing I did get the elbow where I wanted it first on the new box then aligned it to the tube.

 

 

 

 

3rd: The trim seal was a PITA, so I cut it into three pieces and installed it around the three long edges. It's just there to keep the housing from being loose and rattling. It does nothing to actually seal the housing.

 

4th: Maybe I received the wrong part with my order, but mine has a cutout on the side of the housing nearest to the fender that allows air into the air box. It's no big deal, I just now have three separate openings in the air box (stock intake, HKS funnel & Takeda box). Nadracer, can you comment on that? Also, I didn't have to modify my stock box to get the Takeda to fit, but I did have to loosen the bottom bolt so I would have more room.

 

5th: It would probably have been easier to install the elbow coupling onto the Takeda box prior to putting it in place.

 

6th: I left the engine cover off because broken. Not a good idea to remove it when it's 25F out.

[nstg8r]

As for the filing I did, I didn't loosen the bolts since I did not want this to bounce around under hard throttle.

 

I should have been clearer. I tightened that bolt back up after I had the Takeda box in place.

[nstg8r]

Okay, here we go.

 

Stats: 2012 3.6R, full tank of gas, proper tire pressure, HKS intake funnel, AVO DBW throttle controller set at Power-3, 30-miles round trip of mostly highway driving.

 

Initial impressions:

 

Start-up seemed to take an additional crank or two to get going. After that, it seemed to idle pretty smoothly. After letting the engine warm up to operating temperature (when the blue temp light went out), I hit the road. Definite difference in the sound and also smell. The sound is what you would expect, more throatier. The smell has me concerned a bit; it smells like exhaust fumes. Once I got onto the entrance ramp, I floored it. I wont go as far as to say I felt more power, but it was a cleaner acceleration with no hesitation. Because of weather and traffic conditions, I had to drive conservatively, but I was able to cruise at 65mph for a few miles. I think the car ECU's sweet spot was around 60. It hardly felt like the engine was running. Once off the highway, it was a little different. When decelerating, the engine lugged a little bit before down shifting. It idled well though at a complete stop. Upon a soft acceleration up to 30-40mph, the car didn't hesitate any, but I think the ECU was still trying to figure out when to up/down shift. I don't think 30 miles was enough driving for the ECU to learn new tricks. Where 60 was the sweet spot, 35-40 was the worst. After a couple more days, the ECU should balance everything out.

 

Yes, I know a tune would be the optimum way to go, but that's a road I'm not quite yet prepared to go down. This is my DD, as there's no one local in case things go wrong.

[Perscitus]

Sounds good Rob. No worries and no pressure on the tune (DO IT!, lol just kidding).

Sounds like the ECU is learning to deal with the extra air and new MAF sensor position/readings well. Should continue to improve over the next 60-100 miles.

See how that goes and what MPGs you get this or next tank.

 

The smell seems strange, is it in the cabin? When you pop the hood or when you shut her down and stand by the muffler tips (could be car is running a bit richer as it tries to learn the new hardware)?

[nstg8r]

Sounds good Rob. No worries and no pressure on the tune (DO IT!, lol just kidding).

Sounds like the ECU is learning to deal with the extra air and new MAF sensor position/readings well. Should continue to improve over the next 60-100 miles.

See how that goes and what MPGs you get this or next tank.

 

The smell seems strange, is it in the cabin? When you pop the hood or when you shut her down and stand by the muffler tips (could be car is running a bit richer as it tries to learn the new hardware)?

 

Smell is coming from the engine and then into the cabin thru the vents. Could be a combination of the new intake and the engine cover being removed. I'll keep my nose on it.

[nstg8r]

Nadracer, I was just going over your photos again and I noticed something. Your car appears to have a cylinder head cover (circled in yellow).

 

 

My car doesn't have that.

 

 

Edit: Just took another look and mine are aluminum.

Edited January 11, 2014 by nstg8r

[nstg8r]

Okay, question for the engine experts; after putting in the new intake, it feels like to me that I have a firmer brake pedal now. I moderately understand how the whole brake vacuum booster works, but would changing the air flow via a new intake affect that? I thought the booster would only be working when the throttle is closed, so, am I just imagining things?

[fredrik94087]

^^^ I dont believe there is any relation there. The only tube that connects to the intake is just before the TB and that is the EGR return.

[fredrik94087]

So I got mine on.

 

Some initial feedback.

 

There are several holes and a long slit that need to be plugged up. I didnt have any silver tape handy but I will get back to it another time.

 

The box is a little hard to line up properly as it can slide up and down even when clipped in place. The takeda box does not fit with the OEM bottom piece in a way that that it gets locked in position. Yes it has tabs for the bottom and clips for the top but it is not locked the way the oem pieces were.

 

Finally, the afe or takeda piece has a slot on the side facing the fender where it draws air. It seems that their gains are from the slot and a cone filter that flows better than oem. I dont believe their tube makes a difference other than looking nice.

 

Oh, and the silicon 45 degree piece that connects the funnel to the intake tube feels a bit flimsy.

 

Sorry, I was not that impressed.

 

The aem surface area is just a little less than the afe cone surface area. However, the afe folds are about 1" while the afe folds are about 1/2". To me, this translates to the aem panel filter flowing more air.

 

I left the hks funnel on there as it will not cause any harm. I want as much air as possible through that intake tube. I will drive it like this and try to dyno on Friday.

 

I have ordered an oem intake box top half so I can try to mate it with the afe tube. I will do this after a dyno with takeda setup as mentioned above.

 

I wish I had better news. Ive never been good at selling the sizzle. I just sell the steak.

 

Cheers!

[nstg8r]

There are several holes and a long slit that need to be plugged up. I didnt have any silver tape handy but I will get back to it another time.

 

 

When I first saw those seams and holes in the aFe box, I was like, huh? Then it occurred to me, they are on the outside air side of the filter, so I figured never mind.

[fredrik94087]

When I first saw those seams and holes in the aFe box, I was like, huh? Then it occurred to me, they are on the outside air side of the filter, so I figured never mind.

 

Yes they are outside the filter. However, it will pick up surrounding air. The big slot on the fender side is probably okay. But, open seams and other holes are just bad oversight.

[nadracer]

My OEM box fits a bit more secure than what you have. Much of that was because of the minor filing to fit. Lines up next to perfect. I didn't see anything looking flimsy. I just wished the couplings had more length to them so getting the tube into position wasn't a pain.

 

I've had a few other brands of CAI's on various cars and this fits right in with them on quality; Iceman, K&N's, and Injen.

 

I thought about that same tape on the Takeda too during my install. I have two different size rolls from working on my home A/C from last spring.

[nstg8r]

My OEM box fits a bit more secure than what you have. Much of that was because of the minor filing to fit. Lines up next to perfect. I didn't see anything looking flimsy. I just wished the couplings had more length to them so getting the tube into position wasn't a pain.

 

I've had a few other brands of CAI's on various cars and this fits right in with them on quality; Iceman, K&N's, and Injen.

 

I thought about that same tape on the Takeda too during my install. I have two different size rolls from working on my home A/C from last spring.

 

I had better fitment as well, but maybe because I didn't go around the corners with the rubber seal. I have a roll of black Gorilla duct tape that I would use for the seams if I was to tape them up.

[fredrik94087]

Bottom line...the box can and should be improved. Sucking in hot air from under the hood because there are open seams and little holes all around is unacceptable.

 

Im very curious to see what the dyno tells.

[nstg8r]

As nadracer suggested in an earlier post, I think the box serves no other purpose than to hold the filter and tube in place and uses the stock half to support it. It's sort of a CAI/SRI hybrid system.

[fredrik94087]

I ghetto blocked the holes and slit. Held it up to the light to see where light was getting through and only blocked those spots. Please dont ask what I did...it is a little embarassing and reminds me of years ago (15+ years) when I went to home depot to piece together a shield and piping for a cone filter.

 

Interesting growl around 4000 rpm at 3/4 to full throttle. It isnt like the sound of webber carbs opening up. I should record it and post it in the next few days.

 

I went to a specialty plumbing supply to find a 45 to replace the afe piece. No go. I will have to try and find something online...if any.