Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Takeda 3.6R Intake Review


Recommended Posts

I ordered some HPS silicon hoses as I was not impressed by what was provided in the box.

 

Gonna dyno tomorrow morning...hopefully. Butt Dyno says :iam:

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 163
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I ghetto blocked the holes and slit. Held it up to the light to see where light was getting through and only blocked those spots.

 

I might get some black silicone and put the bead on the inside to seal it up. I definitely want to do something about the way the clips just hang loosely in there when they're not snapped in place.

 

Interesting growl around 4000 rpm at 3/4 to full throttle. It isnt like the sound of webber carbs opening up. I should record it and post it in the next few days.

 

I've already turned a few heads and gotten some thumbs up for that, lol.

 

I went to a specialty plumbing supply to find a 45 to replace the afe piece. No go. I will have to try and find something online...if any.

 

Yeah, my piece looks a little contorted right now and it's keeping the stock half of the box from lining up correctly with the air inlet duct.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gonna dyno tomorrow morning...hopefully. Butt Dyno says :iam:

 

My butt tells me more on demand power with less hesitation and smoother idle but rougher start ups. MPG's are up .5 maybe at best. I should have used my UltraGauge and written down all the associated before & after numbers (intake temp, vacuum pressure, etc).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^^ at the end of the day I want the solid tube. Just not sure if it will be the afe box or oem box.

 

Yes, the 45 or 30 degree hose doesnt seem to sit correctly no matter how I rotated it. And, like you, the box ends up a little off or pulled back so the intake duct doesn't fit flush. I hope to remedy that later.

 

The growl is good.

 

After dyno, I will do the OEM top half and dyno again. Why? Because racecar!

Edited by fredrik94087

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^^ It is working for me.

 

Here it is again

 

Okay...I saw the issue...fixed it. Don't know why I had a few extra numbers on there.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/3-6r-aem-hks-vs-afe-takeda-hks-220025.html

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, so we're saying that the car runs better and has more power with the HKS/Takeda combo? I've never had a car dyno'd, so I don't really know how to read the charts.

 

To be fair, I didn't run it with the milk jug in place, so I can't tell you that it is better. It wasn't worth $120 to find out. And, I'm 99.9% sure it is the way to go.

 

What I can tell you is that with the HKS/Takeda combo, I don't have only the gains between 5,000 and 6,000 rpm as AFE has in their dyno chart. My gains are across most of the rpm range, albeit small. I don't see any dips when I compare my dynos.

 

Now, nadracer took off the milk jug and left a hole there. Is it just as good and cheaper than putting on the funnel? Don't know. However, I have the funnel and it goes in. Worst case it sucks air about 8" lower and slightly forward than the hole at the bottom of the box.

 

My next attempt will be the stock box to the afe tube. My guess is that the dyno will be the same or somewhere between my comparison of the two setups. Only the dyno will tell.

 

And, that should be it for me and dynos and mods until a few work items are done.

 

Cheers!

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Do you have to modify any of the OEM parts to install this intake?

 

do it Rhett!!!

 

HKS Funnel and AEM filter by fredrik94087

7whp 5wtq on Superflow

Gains across entire power band

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost....15&postcount=1

 

HKS Funnel + AEM filter vs AFE/Takeda Intake + HKS Funnel by fredrik94087

2.2whp and 3wtq. 7whp/7wtq at 5250 on Superflow. Gains everywhere.

Estimate 9whp and 8wtq with Takeda and HKS Funnel combo (subtracting exhaust)

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost....57&postcount=1

 

The takeda intake got me a total of 9.2whp and 8wtq

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do I need that HKS funnel too?

 

can't hurt :lol:

 

It draws cooler air (3 degrees cooler) than from the front.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. I've read all the build threads, but I just need this all simplified for me. In order to do the intake the "right" way, I will need the intake, the funnel, and what hoses and clamps?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. I've read all the build threads, but I just need this all simplified for me. In order to do the intake the "right" way, I will need the intake, the funnel, and what hoses and clamps?

 

The couplers provided by AFE were not up to par. The coupler wasn't horrible because there was almost no space between the end of the pipe and the Throttle Body. So, it was completely supported by metal.

 

However, the elbow between the box and pipe has a 3" run in which it is not supported at all. I could easily squeeze it with my fingers. So, I opted for HPS couplers that are 5mm thick. You can see the difference between the HPS couplers and the "generic" ones that AFE/Takeda supplied. Buy yourself the "HPS 3" (76mm) 4-ply Reinforced High Temp 45 Degree Elbow Coupler Silicone Hose Black". It was $53 on Amazon. I didn't know before, but I can save you a few bucks. You don't have to order a straight coupler. You need to cut off 3" from each end of the HPS 45 because it is too long. You can use one of the 3" pieces as the coupler between the tube and TB.

 

^^^ The above is from one of the two links I provided earlier.

----------------------

----------------------

 

The only thing you really need is the afe intake that comes in a box.

 

The HPS couplers are just stiffer, and the HKS funnel will allow a little more air at ~3 degrees cooler than the snorkel in the front.

 

You can spend ~$300 for the intake or ~$425 to do it the way I did.

 

Just get the intake and get it on and decide from there...

 

Cheers!

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look and sound preferance on all three, super minor nip n tuck needed on the mid pipe, just needs to be cut like 7 inches or so. Its also a good idea to add a resonator and or j pipe while here to combat the H6 drone. These CBEs were not designed with our engine in mind so they drone from a little to a lot.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use