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Cincy05LGT's 2005 LGT Build


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I'm guessing no, because only one end has them.

 

I put a little brake grease on the slides where the tabs slide in the brackets. I think you get what I'm talking about, those SS clips that pop into the brackets where the pad tabs slide.

 

I pull the slide pins and grease them too, If that leather/rubber collar thing on the inner end of the lower pin is a PITA, just remove it.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Had some fun at autocross. I need more camber and less understeer. Still good enough for an SM class win.

 

In-car

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1ejkUgiX9k]CincySCCA Autocross @ Turfway Park 6-26-16 In-Car - YouTube[/ame]

 

Outside

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKHvV-4_x0I]Autocross Turfway 6-26-16 - YouTube[/ame]

Edited by Cincy05LGT
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Found it! Although shouldn't a popped manifold hose cause a rich condition under wot? I'm confusedhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160729/3642f5b8dbd5cb450d9e27494309dbc8.jpg

That's the vacuum source for the fuel pressure regulator. With it off or leaking you'll run rich at idle and part throttle and then lean under boost.

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Found it! Although shouldn't a popped manifold hose cause a rich condition under wot? I'm confusedhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160729/3642f5b8dbd5cb450d9e27494309dbc8.jpg

 

That's why they make a thing called zip ties.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Today i noticed my defi racer boost gauge was only showing 0.5bar at WOT. Car felt fine, AFR's were good, so i verified that boost was hitting target 1.3bar with my Bluetooth obd2 dongle and phone app. Going to pop the hood to have a look in a few.
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The car has been running great lately, with 3 autox events and a track day under it's belt. More importantly, I've been learning a lot and tightening the nut behind the wheel.

 

Only trouble lately has been vac lines popping off, time to go silicone and zip tie errythang. Also time to step up the tire width with some R-comps (yes my springs will be woefully too soft).

 

Kil-Kare AWDARMY summer meet

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160815/3b3b04183fe596a4f45508fe9429f06b.jpg

 

3/12 in SM; 17/65 overall at Kil-Kare

Best result yet

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160815/b291faae5bfd9ee300ce06602eeaa848.jpg

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Alternator died today. Reman on the way from Rockauto. Should give me an excuse to tear things apart and install the Samco bpv hose, killerB oil pan, baffle, and pickup, turbo blanket and heat shield, and fix a blown fog light ballast. Whew.
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Seems someone else had a alternator go bad the other day too.

 

I've been wondering about, 229,000 miles...

 

I been slowly wondering if I should replace/reman my alternator and starter while the engine is out.

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Merc6, The starter might be something I'd seriously think about doing while now in your case.

 

If you still have the OEM TMIC I'd do it now. I need to replace or rebuild the starter in my Spec B as it dose that noise when its cold out. Still not sure I want to take it all apart for the $100 or so for a rebuilt.

 

The car has a GS tmic so its simple to remove and install.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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