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Cincy05LGT's 2005 LGT Build


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How has your experience with the Kinugawa TD05h 16g been? My VF40 bit the dust and I'm looking to replace it with something I can run on an entirely stock car. I've heard good things about the turbo itself, but am unsure if it'd play nicely with a stock system, even tuned at stock boost levels. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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How has your experience with the Kinugawa TD05h 16g been? My VF40 bit the dust and I'm looking to replace it with something I can run on an entirely stock car. I've heard good things about the turbo itself, but am unsure if it'd play nicely with a stock system, even tuned at stock boost levels. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I've been very happy with it, though I wish I had waited for the 16gxt. The spool is good, and pulls strong nearly to redline, much more area under the curve than the vf40. It is a substantial upgrade in terms of airflow even at stock boost levels. The 8cm turbine housing option also helps reduce the exhaust restriction, so wgdc tables are much different from stock. I would say at minimum your supporting mods would need to be a dw65c fuel pump, aftermarket tmic, and a good etune.
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I've been very happy with it, though I wish I had waited for the 16gxt. The spool is good, and pulls strong nearly to redline, much more area under the curve than the vf40. It is a substantial upgrade in terms of airflow even at stock boost levels. The 8cm turbine housing option also helps reduce the exhaust restriction, so wgdc tables are much different from stock. I would say at minimum your supporting mods would need to be a dw65c fuel pump, aftermarket tmic, and a good etune.

 

Thanks for the pointers. I was sitting between this and the BNR 16G, this definitely helps with a decision.

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Fwiw a few people on here have been having issues with BNR quality lately.

 

So I've heard. I've looked over a few stock replacement options and mostly ruled out BNR due to some recent reviews. However, they pieced together a nice alternative oiling kit for the turbo using an oil filter sandwich plate, inline filter, and some piping.

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Got the rear diff out today and cracked it open to see the carnage. The spider gears are totally trashed! I'm surprised the car still drove as well as it did with so much material missing. Now I'm just waiting on bushings and hardware to arrive before the new diff goes in.bf2c9491a569a49374e70cfb2ecd906c.jpg4fc0f2f6a046f54f3283f01c5450caa3.jpg
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Yeah, man. Draining oil full of gear chunks twice in one year is not my idea of fun. Can't wait for the opportunity to upgrade the drivetrain.

Yeah that's no bueno.

I had a related conversation with my wife about my car last night.

At this point it's an old car, but the body and motor are in such good shape that even if maintenance starts costing me (us) a couple hundred dollars a month it would still make financial sense to keep the car. Since I do all of the work myself the extra cost of upgrading (upgrade price minus OEM price) is usually pretty easy to justify.

Edited by StkmltS
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  • 2 weeks later...
Diff is bolted in with poly subframe bushing inserts and crossmember bushings. After turning and pushing for awhile, both CV axles are fully seated into the diff (finally), which was a real pain. Now I'm ready to final torque everything, fill it up with Motul and reconnect the prop shaft for an open downpipe test drive on summer wheels. [emoji12]
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Diff is bolted in with poly subframe bushing inserts and crossmember bushings. After turning and pushing for awhile, both CV axles are fully seated into the diff (finally), which was a real pain. Now I'm ready to final torque everything, fill it up with Motul and reconnect the prop shaft for an open downpipe test drive on summer wheels. [emoji12]

 

Yes those rear axles require some elbow grease, it took me a few hard times to get them in.

My wife's balls are delicious.
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  • 2 weeks later...

My first autocross of the season was a success by all measures since nothing blew up or broke, and the cherry on top was a street modified class win. I was pleased to get 5 runs with the massive 150 entrants we had. It was enough to gain confidence in the new KW coilover setup, but not enough to really master. I left a ton of time on the table by hitting slalom cones on my last two runs which were a full second faster. Having a functional LSD seemed to make a big difference on corner exit and put down the power well. I think the nut behind the wheel has quite a bit more learning to do, but I've stopped a lot of bad driving habits that have held me back in years past.

 

Things I noticed after watching footage:

I'm 6'7" and bracing against the door with my knee. That's why it hurts... I use a CG lock but a better seat will help

I need to practice slaloms and find the edges of car

Our steering ratio sucks

I need to look further ahead

I need more negative camber performance alignment, camber bolts are maxed out, need camber plates

RE71R's would be nice but not in the cards until next year, worn out RE11's will have to do

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Awesome 100 mile cruise in the LGT out to Brookville Lake with some buddies on their bikes. I love this car now, they should come this way from the factory. [emoji7][emoji7][emoji7] except for the ******* grinding sound from the rear.

They were on a Yamaha VStar bobber, and a KTM Super Duke 1000.

 

f7f802b70d358fa32342975f236ad8be.jpg

Edited by Cincy05LGT
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  • 2 months later...
So a downpipe swap this weekend has turned into a huge mess. I snapped off a stud in the turbine housing that WILL NOT come out. Unfortunately it's the bottom stud in the blind hole. I attempted drilling the ****** out on the Bridgeport at work, and managed to elongate and ovalize the hole. ****. Now I'm trying to think of a way to salvage, or buy a new turbine housing.b2aade0744bc05158d29bae91c5c5376.jpg3883d3fc36707dffabb158afd26ef670.jpgd067ac2fa1feee8e2d84d5e002140c6b.jpg
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Gotta go bigger or helicoil.... right?
Without pulling the housing off the chra, it's damn near impossible to get ahold of it in a vice well enough finish drilling out, let alone tap it. I'm a bit nervous about taking the housing off for damaging the fins.
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Just go a little bigger.

Heck, using the freshly non-threaded hole with a longer bolt and a nut would probably work fine. The other bolts/studs will be enough to keep the turbo aligned properly with the DP.

Unfortunately this is the only blind hole on the housing. FML.
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Find a good machine shop, they can fix that for you.

 

The housing can be removed. I had pictures on here of the housing removed, but don't have time to find them now.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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