Dishwasher Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 Thanks for posting all these pics and tips. Subscribed for when my clutch eventually goes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 Thanks for convincing me to have my local Subie specialist do mine... I've done many Honda clutch jobs, and even rebuilt the guys of two... But that was back then, and this all made me realize of rather save up for someone else to do it. Thanks! Well... Unless I get that lift... The install labor would nearly pay for half of it... Oh, there I go again! pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted December 22, 2016 Author Share Posted December 22, 2016 Depends on the cost and how well they will do the work. If it's $500 then it might be easier to just pay someone. But I don't think they would be as detailed as I would like them to be for $500 (Replacing all the seals, fixing other things while in there, etc.). I started tearing the car down on Saturday at 3pm finished it mostly on Sunday night but had to go get a new axle seal so wasn't road ready till Monday. So a weekended wasted to save over $500 doesn't sound too bad to me. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 All depends on the weekend! My clutch is holding up, but is of unknown brand and mileage. Yeah, you got to look at evaluate all those seals and stuff. I agree that when you DIY "right" it's to a better level than most shops can do or care to do. And you did it that fast while taking pictures along the way! pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted December 22, 2016 Author Share Posted December 22, 2016 It really lets you see what's going on with the car and what needs fixing next. I got a good look at the car body and saw that it's not too rusty, transmission mount needs replacing due to broken studs, and discovered how ugly my shifter bushing looks, so went ahead and bought an aftermarket bushing set, pics coming soon . I am smelling some fuel now though, which is odd since I didn't touch anything fuel related, the car was tilted back with a fullish tank, maybe I have a leak someplace? Oddly enough I smelled the fuel while replacing the shifter bushing (so way forward of the tank) 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 The most common spot where the fuel leaks happen is under the intake manifold by the fuel connectors. I replaced the hose and clamps 2 years ago and no more fuel smell. Picture of said hose. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted December 22, 2016 Author Share Posted December 22, 2016 I love that the clamp is upside down, making it impossible to do without removing the manifold. I'm wanting to do the clutch damper bypass, while I have the fluid drained I'm thinking of replacing the clutchline with a steel braided one. Well after some reading looks like most lines are WRX lines and are too short for us. Anyone know of confirmed fitting lines? 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted December 23, 2016 Author Share Posted December 23, 2016 Looked at that hose and it was dry and didn't have any fuel smell. Went around the car and smelled it in the back right then saw this wet spot. Looks like fuel did indeed leak out while the car was on jackstands. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=242472&stc=1&d=1482466620 If I need a new fuel tank I'm gonna be angry since I just pitched the parts legacy 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Dang that's a lot if all that wet area is fuel. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Whats up with everybody having fuel leaks? Seems like quite a few people have been talking about it lately. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
148am Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Cold winter temps, I'd guess. More expansion/contraction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted December 23, 2016 Author Share Posted December 23, 2016 Rubber seals compress and become firmer thus start leaking. I replaced my fuel pump gasket last year, so not sure what else could be leaking now. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted December 23, 2016 Author Share Posted December 23, 2016 (edited) While I had the driveshaft off I noticed how rusty the rear shifting bushing was. Ordered a replacement, even with prime it didn't get here before I finished the car, but that's fine since it was easy to replace. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261295&stc=1&d=1516928811 ES 19.1102G bushing kit: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261296&stc=1&d=1516928811 Unbolted the front bushing, that allows you to pull the shift rod out of the old bushing. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261297&stc=1&d=1516928811 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261300&stc=1&d=1516928917 ES vs stock rearward bushing: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261298&stc=1&d=1516928811 Rear bushing installed: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261299&stc=1&d=1516928811 Now you might notice that the kit comes with a front bushing too, I decided not to install it because more vibrations would be sent into the cabin. With just the rear bushing installed no new NVH's were introduced but it did help the shifter feel a little more precise. Edited January 26, 2018 by covertrussian 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Rubber seals compress and become firmer thus start leaking. I replaced my fuel pump gasket last year, so not sure what else could be leaking now. This^^ My fuel smell would only happen in winter when temps are below 50*. New hose and clamps helped. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted December 25, 2016 Author Share Posted December 25, 2016 Found the fuel leak, it's coming from the fuel pump o-ring. I'm not sure why exactly, since it was replaced just last year. Maybe my metal bracket is too rusty and bent. I tried torquing the nuts more but that didn't seem to help. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted December 29, 2016 Author Share Posted December 29, 2016 (edited) I apparently forgot to connect the main battery ground source, the line was tucked to the side during the removal of starter. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261301&stc=1&d=1516929007 Reconnected: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261302&stc=1&d=1516929007 I didn't even feel the difference for the week that I've been driving around. Thanks to a pretty beefy ground kit that I installed to the battery and rest of the engine/bay. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261303&stc=1&d=1516929007 Edited January 26, 2018 by covertrussian 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Wow pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) I've been trying to put miles on the clutch to break it in properly, driving like a grandma with so much power at hand just sucks . I'm gonna try to do about a thousand city miles before I dog the car. This is more then exedy's 750m recommendation, but I want to play it safe since I have glazed a few organic disks in the past on my turbo Nissans, which surprisingly weren't even slipping when I removed them. Here are few of my observations from around 400 total miles (200 city miles): - By now the clutch is no longer on or off grippy which makes smooth driving easier. - Clutch pedal is a tiny bit softer, but it's still 2-3x stiffer then what my stock one was at it's end days. What helps is the clutch is very smooth and springy and not gritty, so I have no issues with it being that stiff. - Lighter single mass flywheel lugs a lot easier and at higher RPM's then the dual mass did, it now undriveably lugs the engine below 2k rpm in 4th and 5th. The last one is very annoying to me since I spent a lot of my time at 30mph. 3rd gear at 30mph is at 2.2k rpm and has way too much torque, 4th gear at 30mph is at 1.7k rpm and lugs unless your coasting. I was actually expecting a lighter setup to do better at lower RPM's, but I guess less inertia with ~5lb lighter setup is what's causing this. Those of you that went to 12lb flywheels, did you see similar issues? 2,000 RPM Torque Wall That does bring me back a phenomenon the LGT has a 2,000rpm wall. Below 2k rpm she has no torque at all, but above 2k rpm it's a powerhouse. I noticed this issue after getting the 2.5i Outback which has a ton of torque at even 1.5k rpm. I always chucked it at being better because of higher compression, but I'm really thinking it's something else now. Anyone else notice similar wall on their GT's? Edited January 12, 2017 by covertrussian 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigs Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Mine feels rather good from 2200 - 4500 then falls on its face. I think a lot of it has to do with the heads on the EJ255. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommy m Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 mine is the same between 1.900 and 2.050, not much power...over that I have loads (320 hp). I have lighten the flywheel myself like 2 kg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 Mine feels rather good from 2200 - 4500 then falls on its face. I think a lot of it has to do with the heads on the EJ255. That's actually the stock turbo, get a 16G and you'll sing a different song , mine pulls really good to redline now. But that's full throttle, which puts everything to the limits, I'm talking about just partial throttle daily driving here . mine is the same between 1.900 and 2.050, not much power...over that I have loads (320 hp). I have lighten the flywheel myself like 2 kg. Hmm this makes me wonder if it's tune or something mechanical. I've tried throwing much more timing at it at those ranges and it didn't seem to matter so far... 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 I'm stage 2 on an EJ255, and I agree. In fact I don't even go below 2krpms (outside of starting from a stop). I'll usually keep it as close to 2k rpms as I can. I average about 26mpg with mostly highway driving. Usually if I'm driving conservatively or for fuel efficiency I'll rev to about 3000-3500rpm and shift into the next gear. I always attributed to being outside of boost below 2k. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 Nah it's not boost related, if anything it could be compression related. I wish I still had my old FXT to test with, same motor, but slightly different transmission gearing. What I noticed today is, going 40mph in 5th gave me around 1700rpm too but no lugging. The car also doesn't lug below 2k rpm in 1st or 2nd gear, a bit in 3rd and a lot in 4th. I think it's something about our 4th gears... 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 (edited) I figured it's time to replace the clutch fluid, I bet it's the factory original fluid. I've also been wanting to do the clutch delay valve, also known as clutch damper, bypass for a while now. While I was in there I figured I should replace the old rubber line with a stainless steel braided line too. Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Line Installation Not many clutch line options for our cars, luckily Goodridge makes a quality coated line (uncoated stainless steel turns into a saw to anything that touches it). This line is meant for the 2006-2007 WRX, earlier models are pull type and are much shorter. Update!: This line failed after only 12.5k miles! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261282&stc=1&d=1516928564 Part Number: GOO 24216-CLUCL (If you buy one, make sure it has the CL at the end if you want a coated line). Stock line vs the SS line: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261285&stc=1&d=1516928564 Removed the intercooler to expose the clutch line http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261283&stc=1&d=1516928564 Sucked out all of the brake fluid from the reservoir, this will save time and reduce the amount of brake fluid that ends up everywhere. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261290&stc=1&d=1516928564 Removed the factory line, slave cylinder bolt was easy, but the flare in the back was a little tricky. I used a 17mm wrench to hold the the line and 10mm flare tool. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261284&stc=1&d=1516928564 The new line is angled a little to much and does touch the transmission. Since it's coated it shouldn't be a big deal, but it can cause false knock vibrations. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261286&stc=1&d=1516928564 I bent the line a little up, but it didn't help, it was still contacting. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261287&stc=1&d=1516928564 Good ole ziptie to the rescue, ziptied it to the wire above it. Plenty of clearance now. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261288&stc=1&d=1516928564 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261289&stc=1&d=1516928564 Clutch Delay Valve Delete Parts Needed: M16-1.50mm bolt - $3 Subaru Oil Drain Plug Part # 807016160 M16 Washer (Edit: Copper washer kept on leaking on me, reusing stock washer solved the leak) Clutch delay valve is the hockey puck diaphragm attached to the master cylinder. I couldn't find a big enough of an adjustable wrench, channel locks worked well enough. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261291&stc=1&d=1516928564 The thread is a M16-1.50mm, which is really hard to find. To our luck the 2.5i Outback drain plug (Subaru part # 807016160) fits the bill. It is a little shorter then the damper one, but it looked to have enough threads to be just fine still. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261292&stc=1&d=1516928564 Top view of the delay valve, it's got a chamber inside and should have a spring regulated diaphragm. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261293&stc=1&d=1516928564 CDV Delete installed overall a breeze to install. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261294&stc=1&d=1516928564 Update: Copper washer kept on leaking on me, reusing stock washer solved the leak. Sadly Subaru doesn't seem to sell these separately, so be careful with your stock one! Overall impression The change wasn't as drastic as it was on my 2012 Outback, though that one has a bigger damper, but it was noticeable. I want to say my clutch pedal got a tad lighter to press too, kind of makes sense less flex = more fluid going straight to the slave cylinder. Edited January 27, 2019 by covertrussian 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 (edited) Thoughts on feel after deleting the CDV? Edit: nevermind, saw you said it wasn't as drastic as on your Outback. I think my reservoir is actually leaking from that dampener. That looks like a good option. What are the side effects of the delete? Also, if you could cover how to bleed the clutch that would be great! Is the old rubber line similar to our brake lines? Actually stainless steel lines coated in rubber? Or is it pure rubber? Edited January 31, 2017 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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