Underdog Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 (edited) So you just finished building up your new engine, thanks to that shot VF40 that sent metal particulate through your oil system or your #4 piston suddenly giving up the ghost. All those shiny new parts sitting there in the engine bay beckoning you to start it up, while the little devil on your shoulder reminds you that you still have to pay the credit card bill and you better not eff this up! "Well I coated everything with oil and/or used assembly lube during the build-up, I can just fill the pan, pull the fuel pump fuse, and crank it over, right?" NO. Asking your oil pump to pressurize the system instantly, with huge pockets of air in the system, and with oil at room temperature, is like asking you to do a mile swim through molasses without breathing. Oh and you better do it in a fraction of a second or your arms and legs will fall off and you will drown. The point being, it is impractical to think that you will have a sufficient oil film on all the bearing surfaces and in all the galleys when the engine starts turning over. It only takes one dry spot or fleck of foreign material to ruin your day. The simple solution is to fill your new engine via the oil pressure switch port with oil under pressure. There are systems out there like the Melling MPL101 that do this, but they cost over $200. I am usually one to jump at the opportunity to buy an expensive tool, but this is one where I feel like you can save some money and DIY. The cost to build my kit: $16. Here's what you need: - 1 Gallon Multi-Purpose Sprayer - I used the HDX 210 739, which I purchased for $9.97 at Home Depot. http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/7819/4md6.jpg - Qty.1 Barbed Hose Fitting - 1/4" Barb to 1/8" BSPT - Your HD might not have this exact configuration (mine didn't), so get creative. The fewer connections the better. *Note the factory bung is threaded BSPT and not NPT. Do not use an NPT fitting here!* http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/3131/1shg.png Assembly: 1. Open the sprayer box. 2. Remove the sprayer from the box. 3. Install the sprayer hose and pump/handle. 4. Do not install the trigger/wand assembly. To use: A. Remove the oil pressure switch from the galley plug adapter. This is located under the alternator in the front center of the engine. B. Thread in your barbed fitting until hand tight, then cinch it down lightly with a wrench. Do not overtighten as you will easily strip the brass fitting. C. Push the hose from the sprayer onto the barbed fitting. D. Fill the tank with a gallon of whatever oil you prefer. E. At this point I usually remove the oil filler cap and start pumping. This particular sprayer has a built-in pressure relief valve which seems to open at about 30PSI. (When I first tried this I plumbed in a gauge to see how much pressure was being created.) F. Keep the tank pressurized until it is nearly empty. Try not to let it run down completely as you don't want to push a bunch of air in after the oil. It's not hyper-critical, just keep an eye on it. G. This really doesn't even need to be a step... but if you are curious how the oil is flowing you can try cracking the turbo oil feed banjo bolt loose. The oil will come out very quickly, so be prepared. H. When you are done you can release the pressure on the tank and pull the hose off the barbed fitting. The pressure in the galleys will cause a little back-flow, so either cap it until the pressure bleeds off, or work quickly and replace your oil pressure switch to minimize spillage. Protip: Do this with the engine on the stand so you can easily spot any leaks, and fix them if necessary. There you go! Don't forget to check the dipstick before startup and after the engine is warm. Edited August 1, 2014 by Underdog 1 The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted September 27, 2013 Author Share Posted September 27, 2013 Pictures to come. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Bump, great idea, love it. But isn't that port you tapped a 1/8" BSPT, NOT a NPT? If yes, the two standards are off 1 thread per inch, which means you can only get a turn in on the fitting before the aluminum threads start to change shape... [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 Well I'll be damned. I just checked the spare OEM galley plug adapter and sure enough it appears to be 28tpi. Thanks for the heads-up. Time to search for BSPT barbed fittings, or amend the DIY to include an NPT Prosport galley adapter. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 Went to my stand-by fitting provider and found the correct fittings, although they are GF black nylon rather than brass or SS. Still, at less than $1 ea., you really can't go wrong. Now i am just searching for a small in-line filter to put on the hose before the barbed fitting. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 http://i.imgur.com/qfrqIuEl.jpg Thanks Rick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted November 30, 2013 Author Share Posted November 30, 2013 Awesome! The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 Another action shot from earlier today. Primed 4qts @ 25PSI, using shop air it only took a few minutes, and with the engine out of the car it is easy to check for leaks (this is why the timing belt covers are off). http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/837/jakz.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/841/oz9d6.jpg The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 Excellent idea - thanks! - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 Top notch idea. If I have your permission, I'll put this entire thread into my sticky for everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 Please do. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I added a tire valve stem to mine and used it again on Saturday. Works awesome! http://i.imgur.com/w71tePZ.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 Nice work. I have two now - one dedicated for priming engines with break-in oil, and one for filling the trans & diff. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Thanks to Turkeylord for referencing this, as I was getting concerned about oiling the engine before startup. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 21, 2015 Moderators Share Posted April 21, 2015 This is awesome! "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Thanks to Turkeylord for referencing this, as I was getting concerned about oiling the engine before startup. Had made a mental note to search for this tonight so I could have everything ready to fill-up the engine and journals for leak tests before reinstall. Thanks to UD for the how-to, and to TL for putting it in his NSBT thread. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Very Cool Idea! I may replace the hose with clear tubing, that way you can see the oil flowing and air bubbles, like on the Motiv Products Power Brake Bleeder; and a valve in the line like their Power Filler: http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/powerfill_thumbnail.jpg&maxx=150&maxy=0 http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/1740-POWER-FILL-PRO-15-gallon_p_79.html Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 The shut-off valve would certainly make it easier to control. I have also thought about the clear tubing and an in-line filter, just never got around to spec'ing one out. You can option them up pretty good before reaching the $230 cost of a Melling pre-lube tank (which is essentially the same thing). The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 The nice thing about adding a tire stem or air line fitting is that you don't have to pump the dang thing, so it's no big deal to just twist the release valve open and release the pressure to stop the flow. A clear filter would be a nice addition and take care of both filtration and visibility. I wonder what the flow rate would be though something like this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21nZU%2BWsnHL.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 The nice thing about adding a tire stem or air line fitting is that you don't have to pump the dang thing, so it's no big deal to just twist the release valve open and release the pressure to stop the flow. Or just drill and tap for a industrial QD and use your compressor. A clear filter would be a nice addition and take care of both filtration and visibility. I wonder what the flow rate would be though something like this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21nZU%2BWsnHL.jpg I think level of filtration is probably more important, but I agree you don't want it to take more than 5-10 minutes. It only takes ~2-3 qts to prime the engine, and keeping it less than full allows for easier maneuvering into the engine bay and proper top-off once the car is back on the ground and level. Shooting from the hip I think .3-.4qt/min is a pretty reasonable flow rate for cold oil through a good filter. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Well, I picked one up at the parts store ( I work there on Saturdays), we'll see how it does. http://i.imgur.com/6alyERl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 A hook accessory snout like the Motiv Power filler would be very handy for filling diffs. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Well, I picked one up at the parts store ( I work there on Saturdays), we'll see how it does. http://i.imgur.com/6alyERl.jpg where did you get those clamps? No parts store knew what I was talking about when trying to get them. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 A hook accessory snout like the Motiv Power filler would be very handy for filling diffs. Yes indeed. Or I believe you can use a standard transmission funnel if you pull the rubber plug out of the spare tire well. I learned that trick a few days late... where did you get those clamps? No parts store knew what I was talking about when trying to get them. They came with the filter. <shrug> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Had made a mental note to search for this tonight so I could have everything ready to fill-up the engine and journals for leak tests before reinstall. Thanks to UD for the how-to, and to TL for putting it in his NSBT thread. I added it to my HG rebuild thread. When I get all done, I'll write up a sticky for Tris' rebuild forum Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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