DIY: Oil System Priming Tank

[Underdog]

Those are called Corbin clamps.

 

Regarding the diff and trans, I just stick the hose into the fill hole or dipstick tube. The oil is not coming out fast enough to make the hose pop out, and the trans fill tube won't overflow like it can with a funnel that seals against it at the top.

[Turkeylord]

Ok, the results are in.

 

One quart without filter: 1:20

One quart with filter: 1:30

 

That's with just enough pressure to start the relief hissing.

[SBT]

Those are called Corbin clamps.

 

I've always called them spring hose clamps - but Corbin works.

 

Amazon has the [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-55173-Clamp-Assortment-Piece/dp/B0006305WO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1429708662&sr=8-1]Dorman Assortment set[/ame]

 

Regarding the diff and trans, I just stick the hose into the fill hole or dipstick tube. The oil is not coming out fast enough to make the hose pop out, and the trans fill tube won't overflow like it can with a funnel that seals against it at the top.

 

Like that idea much better than the funnel in the dipstick neck.

 

And you can rinse the sprayer out with 1 Cup of full-strength Simple Green and hot water. Wash the grime off the bottom of your car and leave a light (better smelling) oil residue protectant. Just keep it away from the exhaust.

[SBT]

Trying to locally source that 1/4" barb into 1/8" BSPT fitting. No joy yet.

[Turkeylord]

Are you planning on sticking with the OEM oil pressure sensor?

 

If not, I might suggest going to a 1/8 NPT galley plug and a gauge or an 1/8 NPT oil pressure switch calibrated for a higher pressure.

[Underdog]

Ok, the results are in.

 

One quart without filter: 1:20

One quart with filter: 1:30

 

That's with just enough pressure to start the relief hissing.

 

I just can't deal with the extra 10 sec wait.

 

And you can rinse the sprayer out with 1 Cup of full-strength Simple Green and hot water. Wash the grime off the bottom of your car and leave a light (better smelling) oil residue protectant. Just keep it away from the exhaust.

 

Here in the northeast you can find places that will spray heated chainsaw bar oil on the underside of the car, which is an extremely effective rust inhibitor. Had one car come into the shop a week after having that done - drips everywhere! I use Fluid Film on my personal vehicles, but only in spot-application.

 

Trying to locally source that 1/4" barb into 1/8" BSPT fitting. No joy yet.

 

Can always go 1/4" barb -> 1/8NPT -> 1/8BSPT. McMaster should have all necessary parts.

[Sgt.Gator]

Trying to locally source that 1/4" barb into 1/8" BSPT fitting. No joy yet.

 

I ordered 10 of them, but they are on backorder for 2 weeks. When they come in I'll post up here and will be glad to mail one or two to anyone at my cost plus a small handling fee. I'm guessing about $6 each should cover it.

 

I'll stop by my local fluid connections dealer too, but I doubt they will have them.

[Sgt.Gator]

The 1/4" barb into 1/8" BSPT fittings are in. If you want one PM me. I'll sell 7 of them.

[Sgt.Gator]

I still have a few of the 1/8" BSPT adapters.

[Turkeylord]

Saw this today.

 

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/vA4dtbS.png

[Sgt.Gator]

You can use an 1/8" BSPT adapter

-OR-

 

Replace the oem Subaru fitting with one that has an 1/8" NPT port. That way you can use a common 1/8" NPT to 1/4" barbed hose fitting available at HD/Lowes. And the best part is you can now put a oil pressure sensor or oil temp sensor with 1/8" NPT sensor in there. You will have to jump the oem oil pressure light switch connection. Don't worry, all this connection does is turn the gauge cluster oil pressure light on and off, it does not go to the ECU.

The block adapter is M18 x 1.5 x 1/8"npt.

 

I've tried several of them, so far the one I like the best is the Prosport PSNUT. Just be aware it comes with Teflon tape that you should remove and replace with high temp Permatex thread sealant.

 

 

 

You can get the adapter here:

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/gauge-install-adapters/prs-psnut-prosport-oil-galley-plug-w-1-8in-npt-threaded-center

Edited November 27, 2016 by Sgt.Gator

[RustyRuu]

I'm just trying to think this through. how would you be able to get to any of the rod bearings or would you only be priming the journals to the main bearings? would you then want to crank it over by hand 20 times, then use the starter to prime more, then throw the fuel pump fuse in and let it rip.

 

i'm just worried since the engine has been sitting for a while. and i'm affraid what i used for assembly oil has probably all oozed away (lucus oil stabilizer).

 

not sure if there is really a question being asked here but if someone notices a really stupid thing was just said by me please let me know.

[RustyRuu]

my original question still stands but this thing works great. It gives you less of a heart ache than just cranking it over to prime. this was my first rebuild ever and i'm back on the road again and this site is the best.

 

thanks Sgt. Gator that fitting was perfect, this idea is a must, and i'll defiantly spread the knowlege Underdog.

[StkmltS]

I'm just trying to think this through. how would you be able to get to any of the rod bearings or would you only be priming the journals to the main bearings? would you then want to crank it over by hand 20 times, then use the starter to prime more, then throw the fuel pump fuse in and let it rip.

 

i'm just worried since the engine has been sitting for a while. and i'm affraid what i used for assembly oil has probably all oozed away (lucus oil stabilizer).

 

not sure if there is really a question being asked here but if someone notices a really stupid thing was just said by me please let me know.

 

That's not a stupid question at all. I think it's fairly common to hear about vehicles starting right up after sitting for years. And that's just with standard motor oil. I bet with assembly lube you could wait 10 years.

 

I think the general idea is that this method puts the oil closer to where it needs to be. It doesn't "pump" any oil anywhere it just slathers the crank/rods with oil so that it's right there when the oil pump starts churning.

 

When a new/rebuilt motor is (finally!) ready to start-up for the first time it's usually recommended to turn the motor over (using the key) for 10/20/30/whatever seconds without allowing the motor to actually run. You can do that by pulling the spark plugs, disconnecting the coil packs, disconnecting the fuel injectors, taking out the fuel pump fuse (our best option)... basically anything simple that will prevent the car from running. Trying to start the motor (with your key) while at the same time preventing it from running (no fuel pump fuse) "primes" the motor by allowing the oil pump to do what it was designed to do, pump oil everywhere, without running the motor. The starter turns the motor over at a much slower rate (less RPM) than when the engine is running, so anything that doesn't have as much oil on it as you'd like (rod bearings) will quickly get oiled without being damaged.

Edited November 28, 2016 by StkmltS

[RustyRuu]

thanks for the low down...

 

i used this method and then cranked the motor without the fuel pump fuse or plug wires till the oil light went out then hooked every thing up and she is doing just fine (still in break in).

[solidxsnake]

Bump from the dead to give another +1. Went out to HD to buy this sprayer and the necessary fittings to hook into the pressure switch bung. I had a couple spares, and the machine shop I got my new shortblock from gave me one that was already re-tapped for 1/8" NPT, so I just needed about 10 bucks worth of brass fitting adapters from Home Depot (1/8" NPT nipple, 1/8" female to 1/4" male bushing, 1/4" coupler, and 1/4" female to barb). Will be using this in the coming weeks.

[VdubaRoo]

Why not just disengage the crank sensor so the vehicle won't catch and pressurize the system without full crank case pressure? I agree [emoji817] with not starting a virgin system that isn't broke in and has residual lube from the last start. Ideally, a system would always be in that scenario. Change your oil with a Subaru with a top mount oil filter is another situation you momentarily starve the system until the filter is primed and pressurized. I think your system is spot on in your situation. It would feel like someone scratching their hands down a chalkboard knowing you put 1000 mi wear in the first minute of your shiny new system.

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[ehsnils]

Doesn't matter if it ignites or not if you have dry surfaces.

 

 

Pumping in oil first without rotating the engine seems to be a good idea. The alternative is to put a thin layer of grease on the surfaces when reassembling, but that only works if you do a full teardown and reassembly.

[Enlight]

I'm getting ready to prime my engine and have been reading about instances of people having difficulty priming. Knowing that the oil path in an EJ goes from the oil pan > pickup > pump > filter > pressure sensor  (and the sensor plug is where I will be priming from) made me consider that the oil will fill the oil filter before it gets to the pump.

Since pre-filling the oil filter is what caused some of these issues with getting prime, I think it might actually help to hand crank the engine in reverse (counter-clockwise when facing the engine) in order to fill the oil pump.

I'm probably just overthinking it but what have people's experiences been after using this pressure sprayer prime procedure?

[silverton]

On 4/21/2015 at 11:12 AM, Turkeylord said:

Well, I picked one up at the parts store ( I work there on Saturdays), we'll see how it does.

 

http://i.imgur.com/6alyERl.jpg

 

On 4/21/2015 at 2:29 PM, boxkita said:

 

where did you get those clamps? No parts store knew what I was talking about when trying to get them.

 

On 4/21/2015 at 2:43 PM, Underdog said:

Those are called Corbin clamps.

 

Regarding the diff and trans, I just stick the hose into the fill hole or dipstick tube. The oil is not coming out fast enough to make the hose pop out, and the trans fill tube won't overflow like it can with a funnel that seals against it at the top.

The picture link in the first post are not corbin clamps. corbin clamps are what come with the AIG air oil seperator and I fucking hate them, they're garbage.  What came in that kit are more like constant tension band clamps, muuuuuch nicer!

That being said, IAG recommends leaving the spark plugs out while doing the initial oil pressure cranking as the compression will cause abnormal wear on the bearings. I'm working on fewer and fewer of the 05-09's, but don't they do the thing where you hold the gas pedal down; it wont start? I thought all the DBW cars were that way.

[KZJonny]

12 hours ago, silverton said:

 

 

The picture link in the first post are not corbin clamps. corbin clamps are what come with the AIG air oil seperator and I fucking hate them, they're garbage.  What came in that kit are more like constant tension band clamps, muuuuuch nicer!

That being said, IAG recommends leaving the spark plugs out while doing the initial oil pressure cranking as the compression will cause abnormal wear on the bearings. I'm working on fewer and fewer of the 05-09's, but don't they do the thing where you hold the gas pedal down; it wont start? I thought all the DBW cars were that way.

Yeah, they have flat foot priming mode.

Figured that out over time, since my car often sits for long periods of time and I like to give it a crank to prime everything up before first start.

Saves some time pulling the fuel pump fuse.

[m sprank]

Did not read all.  Are we overthinking things here?  I assembled/sold/ warranted/installed/started up over 1000 ej255's. Initiall prime for start up is not that difficult. 

[Enlight]

I'm almost certainly being a bit precious here. This is the first and possibly only engine I will ever rebuild.

[m sprank]

Never pre-filled the filter.  Never had an issue building pressure. 

[Max Capacity]

I always put some oil in the filter before I put them on these engines. I really don't see any issue doing that. Can't hurt.