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Project winter beater!! Help pick parts


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Project winter beater is in full swing(05 LGT 5EAT). My Miata comes off the road in a couple of weeks so I will be back to my truck as an every day driver. I need the Legacy to drive so the build is on.

 

My motor is dropped off at the engine shop. They are doing a rough bore to clean up the scuffed cylinder before I buy pistons. After I buy the new parts they are going to finish the machine work.

 

So, I need a set of pistons and I'm thinking JE, CP, or wiseco. I'm thinking I might throw in a set of rods as well considering I'm in there already(Manley or Eagle?). I'm also thinking ARP head stud kit and not sure on the head gasket set but need them too. I'm thinking of going with the BNR 16G after I get the car running right. I'm not looking for huge power because I'm stuck with a 5EAT instead of the manual...ugh!

 

Anybody have any experience and a preferred supplier. I don't have a lot of after market Subaru experience.

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CP seem to have low rod knock.

 

Tranny Cooler is a must.

 

I would talk to your tuner, but with the 5EAT you're limited to about 350hp. Going too big on the turbo might be pointless.

 

Have you braced the master cyl? Huge improvement in brake feel.

 

I've got SS brake lines for added stiffness and piece of mind.

 

Make sure they inspect your heads and bring them back into spec. While you have the motor out replace the oil pickup.

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Underdog Motorsports and AZP Installs are both great vendors on here who provided a wealth of knowledge and great prices on parts during my engine build.

 

 

X2, these are the guy's you want to be talking too.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Thanks for the info guys. Underdog, what kind of speed can you get parts. I hope to have the order in place this week. Things being the way they are, I had to leave this until the last minute. I want to get the parts in the shops hands so I can get it back ASAP.
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I can drop ship everything to you (quickest) but you will be paying for more packages across the border. I can also amass the order at my shop, consolidate, and ship to you (cheapest).

 

In stock items ship same day. Out of stock items can usually drop ship from the manufacturer. If they are out of stock I can search other vendors for product on the shelf.

 

Customs usually clears packages within a day. I can't control their operation though.

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theI will get hold of you once I compile the list. I get everything shipped to calais Maine and just drive down to pick it up. I'm only an hour away from the border.

 

What piston do you normally go with? Noise is not a concern as I'm used to the subie knock.

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I had wiseco's in my turbo civic back in the day and they treated me great. The shop is punching the block enough to clean up the scuff and then I'm ordering the pistons so it can be bored to spec. Just looked at the wiseco's and noticed they say 8.9 : 1. How do you feel about them compared to stock comp ratio?
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As long as the boost targets are modest (which they should be with a 16G, especially if larger injectors aren't in the picture) then the higher CR will yield better off-boost response without severely limiting the amount of timing you can run. At that point the determinant is the quality and consistency of your gas and the quality of your tune.
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Sounds good! I'm partial to Wiseco pistons. I would advise you to talk to machine shop and find out if you can use standard size pistons, or more likely, will need to overbore to 100mm. If an overbore is needed they should wait to have the pistons in-hand so they can dial in the p/w clearance.

 

Do you have to bore all the way to 100mm? Any benefit to staying at 99.75 if possible?

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Depends on a number of things. Sometimes you are trying to remove an imperfection that requires you to remove more material. Sometimes you need to go larger to true the bore. Sometimes your piston manufacturer only offers 99.5 or 100mm (like Wiseco), while others offer 99.5, 99.75, and 100mm (like CP).

 

If you can go with 99.75mm then you have the advantage of being able to bore out the block again if need be. In the internet debates I have seen the strength benefits of the 99.75 vs 100mm bore greatly overstated, but academically the extra metal is a good thing.

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I can't understand why no one seems to knurl the piston skirts in these engines. You would think that with all of the failures in ringlands that everyone would to knurl the skirts because of the knurl's ability at holding much more oil in the lower cylinder and bore as well as also eliminating skirt slap.

 

And, I also noticed that no one ever mentions moly coating the pistons, rods, and cylinder bores either. Is this something that no one does on these engines? We would NEVER build a 850 h.p. V-8 422 c.i. all aluminum dirt late model engine without either of these things and we're turning 9200-9500 r.p.m. for 10-15 minutes at a time and running them for 10-12 weekends before needing to freshen them.

 

Just wondered why and if someone can tell me yes or no, I would be grateful to learn as I'm going to be building a shortblock myself soon.

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I decided to go with the 100mm CP pistons for the EJ255 SC7341. I didn't even know they made pistons specific to the EJ255 so I'm happy to find I can stick the the same compression ratio.

 

What is the difference between the normal Gates timing set and the Race one?

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The shop called me this morning and there was no metal in the pan, the bearings looked great and not even a broken ring land. I have no idea why it scuffed a cylinder so bad but I'm ordering parts tonight.

 

- pistons are CP 7341

- ARP head studs

- ACL bearings

 

What water pump and timing set are you guys going with?

 

What head gaskets are holding up best?

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