lagwagon

Took my wife's car in for service and somebody else did the following - oil and filter, rear wiper blade, power steering flush, cleaned up the battery terminals. I am shocked how much better the car feels after the power steering flush. Much smoother driving and less vibration at idle as well (I think, possibly placebo effect, will need more time in the car to come to a conclusion). Also found out that power steering pumps are getting pretty hard to find right now. New aftermarket was like $430 (only one supplier had stock) and new Subaru is $550. I'll be going new Subaru for that minor price difference. That will also let me rebuild my current pump (since no core charge) if I can track down the elusive reseal kit.

Everything I could see with the intercooler off is clean and dry, from a coolant perspective. The turbo inlet is greasy (the metal part, not the plastic tube) so that might mask a drip. There are a lot of really janky looking hose clamps on my lower rad hose, not that the clamps look bad themselves, just that there are extra clamps everywhere for some reason, but everything looks very clean. Interesting observation - the rear knock sensor valley/area was almost completely filled with crud. I didn't have time to clean that out as I wasn't expecting to replace the intercooler at all, but I'll need to address that at some point. Perhaps the cause of my phantom knock events?

Here is the injector/rail bundle: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/fuel-injectors/1050-18-01-48-14-4-injector-dynamics-id1050x-fuel-injectors-w-top-feed-fuel-rails I don't know what style injector plug those injectors are, nor what the stock ones are so can't help on that side of things, but the kit comes with the pins and housings if you want to do the work yourself. Maybe contact ID to see if they can tell you the correct plugs if nobody answers here.

Added coolant to my magician's box - it seems to make coolant disappear at the wave of a wand. Not sure who is holding that wand but randomly he waves it once every 4 to 6 months and boom, coolant gone. Maybe it's time to pull the O2 sensor and check for contamination.

That hose kit works with ID's side to top feed rails, which they sell bundled with injectors and the pins and housings for the plug conversion. If you don't want to unpin/cut the harness, you'll want to pick up separate plug and play harness converters. I've unpinned and pinned in the past and wish I had bought conversion harnesses so that's the way I would go in the future.

Cleaned my maf sensor, added (yes added, as in it wasn't there) a BPV o-ring, that I replaced last year when I installed a brand new BPV with o-ring, installed a non-leaking intercooler. I did the quick leak test through the BPV signal line and the old intercooler was leaking at the crimp close to the turbo outlet. The "new" one passed the quick test.

I kinda think I should've gone with B6s. I have spare konis with king springs but the konis are not in great shape and the install in the strut bodies is not up to par. They felt pretty comfortable before I removed them, other than clunking, and they sat at about the same height as current. They felt basically stock, which is why I was wondering about the king springs on stock struts/shocks, whereas the B8s/pinks are much much stiffer. My tires are X-ice Xi3s, they are old (2014), but not cracked and tread wear is nice and even, running at stock 35/33 psi in the warm garage, which means they are probably dropping to 33/31 outside in the cold. The tread feels nice and soft and not dried out but at their age I'm sure they are far from ideal.

The B8s are shortened for lowering springs so I don't think that would work well. I have actually thought that they are meant for more lowering than the pinks provide and don't have enough droop travel, causing some of the harshness. But that is an expensive rabbit hole to go down trying to find the bottom.

Good spot if it is the same car. I only see one or two facelift outback xt manuals come up for same each year to year and a half so chances are it is the same car.

Wondering if anybody has a quick answer before I dive back into 75 page threads: Currently on STI pinks and Bilstein B8s and they are not "fun" when it's -30 outside, so I'm thinking I need something softer. So, since I have a spare set, King lowering springs on stock struts/shocks, yay or nay? I'd probably add spacers to get back to stock height as well since I easily get stuck in deep snow.

I'm not a tuner but I am interested in what other people will say. I might've missed something or misinterpreted something but this should help you understand a little of what is going on. Also read COBB's documents on what parameters to log and there are good pinned threads in the tuning section that you should read. There are a couple of spots where it looks like you where shifting gears and another where it looks like you rev'd in neutral so those ones you can probably ignore. There is also a couple events that look like you let off the throttle quickly, which you can probably also ignore. There are some areas of pretty typical parameters where you were -4-ish retard in FKLC, which means you had a few knock events there, either during this log, or likely you've had knock at those conditions multiple times in the past. This is in the 2200-2600 rpm range, with low boost (0-4 psi). To me, that looks a bit like like lugging the engine (I wouldn't see that combination of parameters with the way I normally drive). Your DAM did drop to 0.75 for a short period of time, which is generally not desirable. You'll probably get a recommendation to talk to one of the recommended tuners like Cryotune and it will probably be worthwhile to have them look through logs and create a tune for you considering the amount of corrections that are being applied. In the meantime, if you want to understand what you are looking at better you can log very short periods where you do something very specific, in order to understand what happens under those very specific conditions. Examples would be a low, or mid throttle acceleration from a stop, low, mid throttle acceleration from various rpms, steady state cruising at various rpms, throttle lift off etc. I would stay away from low rpm boost, and generally try to stay out of boost if you see any knock occurring while driving. The easiest things to check for the home mechanic are air filter, fuel (using the right octane), clean the maf sensor, and check spark plugs if you have the right combination of extensions to get them out. From there it gets more complicated.

Get a PPI and see if they will let you take a look under the car to look for rust issues. If they have service records look for the usual issues - brake line rust, banjo filters removed, timing belt service in the last 30,000 kms (filters should've been removed then), worn out suspension bushings. Check the turbo to see if it has been replaced. See if you can watch it build boost on a scan tool. I don't know of any Subaru shops in NS but if there are, they should be able to pull much more data than a run of the mill mechanic to check how everything is running. With what I know now, I probably wouldn't buy a turbo subaru without having it checked at a specialty shop if it doesn't have an access port or one of the android apps to pull learning view data.

Mine isn’t working but I think I have a crack that goes through the wires in the windshield. I need to check that out and see if it does though.

Is there any reason I couldn't swap my JDM double din radio onto the Euro faceplate? The benefit I would get is not having to move the hazard button and cutting the upper left plastic to make it fit. I see the seller has both LHD and RHD plates that only appear to differ in the location of the hazard button. I have all the wiring taken care of as this was previously installed in another local's car.

I used to hyper mile my old Saturn Astra since it had a great (and accurate) consumption screen on the infotainment, that even showed l/hr when idling. I would say if the hill is steep enough to maintain speed in gear, or speed up in gear, leave it in gear. If the car slows down in gear, then it depends on what is coming up next. If there is a light, or other traffic, leave it in gear, if it is clear ahead, pull it out of gear and get the free rpms. Maybe tuck in behind somebody else. Anyways, in the Legacy, I would say it is pretty normal for the car to not speed up in gear even on steep hills. I've driven some mountain passes around here, and the road into my community is pretty steep, and there is no speeding up in gear. If something about the car has changed recently, and brakes are all that have been done, then I would start there. Even a worn out wheel bearing could cause a very slight slow down before making noise. Maybe with the weather change you got some condensation in the lines, or some additional rust and the caliper isn't sliding properly.

I got a couple of logs with calculated load and boost logged. 2nd gear pull - this is a short steep uphill section so acceleration is more like a flat road section 3rd gear pull. Same hill I logged a 2nd gear pull earlier in this thread. Uphill - long uphill at highway speeds 100/110 km/hr. I did four similar pulls today but this one was the steeper uphill section and includes a speed change from 100 to 110 so boost is actually hit and was held for a reasonable portion of the hill. Everything looks pretty good in all these logs, to me at least. Even the ramp up of left advance looks not too bad but I was probably purposefully driving smoothly getting into the 2nd gear pull would is probably masking the asynchronization of the left cam. I know a wot pull should be hard on the throttle but coming around the corner rpms drop too far to go straight to wot. Just the reality of driving in the city. datalog13 - 2nd gear pull.csv datalog1 uphill.csv

From my experience with previous turbo cars with proper wideband O2 sensors, your car shouldn’t even be building boost at that afr. That also looks like the free air calibration O2 measurement so I don’t see how that can be correct with any combustion actually occurring. There is also a spot where your throttle and boost are more or less constant but your rpm drops by about 1000 rpm in two time steps/samples. The only way I can see that happen is if you hit the brakes at wot. Even if that was a shift, boost would’ve dropped somewhat, even with flatfoot shifting, but I can’t imagine that a shift can be done in 0.3 of a second. In short, your rpms don’t look realistic either. I would wait to hear from your tuner but it looks like there is something majorly wrong with the data. I would think something in your harness is shorting out. The only time that I’ve seen something like this was when an O2 signal wire was mistakenly wired to the heater circuit. I’m super interested to hear what others say, and what your tuner says, as I am far from an expert in tuning, and none of my experience is with Subarus.

I found calculated load after running through the list several times, I must be going blind(er). I haven't removed the banjo bolt filter(s) yet, or checked to see if they are there. I took off a/b/c/d fuel and was able to get ONE log to work yesterday but I ran out of time to download it and review it. It seems to be logging boost that causes problems. As soon as I take boost off the list it seems to log normally (or as normal as it ever does for me).

Well, I removed roughness and added boost and requested torque and it won't log at all. I can watch live data but I press the button to start logging and when it is initializing it loses communication...every single time. I guess I'll try again later. Likely related side note: while my AP reads data and the mechanic/dealer hasn't had any issues, my larger scan tool won't connect and the previous owner also reported to the dealer about not being able to connect his tool. Seems to have started sometime in 2012. I assume he bought the AP in an attempt to scan but I haven't asked him. EDIT: I see in some lists there is calculated load, but I don't see that in my list on the actual AP. I haven't removed anything from the monitors list so not sure why it wouldn't be there.

I can add boost and load but I’ll need to take some off the list or it just fails the log. I’ll probably take off cylinder roughness again.

Next log, lol. This one shows that the problem did not change sides when I swapped the OCVs left to right, so there is low pressure getting to the left OCV, duty cycle is going up to compensate during transient driving but not quite getting there and the difference in advance is as high as 9°. This log also has a knock with the car fully in gear, but very low rpm. It still is making a correction though. datalog3.csv

I have one that rattles near the O2 sensor (it's tight, but it touches the manifold and is rusting away). My plan is to get a cut off wheel for my dremel and cut away the part that is touching (it's only about 1 square inch that needs to be cut out).

It's back up to 1 after the reset and a couple short drives.

I think the valve must hold some pressure causing that to happen after a reset. No log yet from the cold start but neither side responded to the idle-2000-3000 steps this morning. They stayed at 0 until several minutes into the drive. I'll post the log tonight to see if there was any difference in synchronization when they did react. Maybe it is too cold in the mornings now to do this.

Drove around to get through some learning from the battery disconnect and did a quick log reving to 2000 and 3000. Left side lagged very slightly, but nothing like the test before the OCV swap. Might be the difference between doing this test on a cold vs hot engine. I think the issue in the previous log was no oil pressure in the OCVs after the swap. I'll do another cold test tomorrow morning and post it up to compare apples to apples (hopefully!) datalog1.csv