lagwagon

Got my car back from the shop with JDM tgv deletes installed, ap v3 to replace the v2 and to tune out the tgv codes. So far so good. Need to drive it more to get the dam back up to 1 and run the new cable to the mount so I can watch things. Also added a 2011 legacy 3.6r to the stable but that’s for a different forum.

Picked up a set of bumper covers in better condition than mine and installed the front. Shampooed the carpet in high wear areas to get rid of the winter dirt. Did a quick boost leak test since about two weeks ago DAM is at 0.6 and FKL is as bad as -2.8 and found a huge leak on the cylinder 2 TGV or intake manifold, can't quite tell since the leak is so large that no soapy bubbles came out. I've been driving with knock sum up and I really only see any knock events when clutching so I'm confident that all the corrections have stopped the knock (I also pulled max timing). Hopefully I can get this fixed this week.

I got mine from Nengun Performance. They still sell them.

Just one data point - me and my wife put about 70,000 kms on mevotech control arms with no issues with the ball joints. My wife doesn't slow down over rough roads, or the icy alley in the winter, and has blown shocks doing so but no issues with the ball joints. The car got totaled before they needed to be replaced so I don't know how long they wouldn't lasted but they were still in spec for play/slop. They probably would've gone around another 70,000 kms. If you get a bad set though, not much you can do other than replace them when they go. Currently I have about 34,000 km on Whiteline ball joints and no issues there either, and again, my wife hasn't slowed down over bad roads yet and my car is lowered (see the "what did you do to your car today" for other anecdotes about my wife wrecking stuff). I am aware that in the past there have been issues with Whiteline ball joints and tie-rod ends.

Went on a ski trip this weekend and got back Tuesday. My wife drives the car when we are away but I drive the highway sections. Found that my front bumper cover is messed up and missing one fog light bezel when we got home. Not damage from another car, it's from a big rock or parking block or something (deep, rough gouges and a small hole, most damage on the lower lip below the main rebar). Wife says she doesn't remember hitting anything, lol.

Not something I did, but my wife drove my car yesterday while I took her Impreza in for service so now I'm waiting to find out what she broke. Usually she manages to rip a CV boot, lol.

Hit 270,000-kms this weekend, added 3/4 of a quart of oil this morning, and scrubbed the front passenger seat with scrubbing bubbles fabric cleaner. I was amazed how much dirt came out of a clean looking seat. I'm sure I could do it a few more times and get even more dirt out.

I retested with the new plug and I got 4.5 on one ground and 2.5 on the other. That still seems high but way better than it was with the old plug. My memory is hazy but I thought resistance on sensor grounds were supposed to be less than 1 ohm. I’ve been testing to the battery since I’m not sure where the sensors are grounded (under the carpet near the ecu?).

Yes, I reset it. I checked voltage and resistance at the plug with the car at acc on so I needed to reset due to the codes it generates. Resistance seemed a bit higher on the ground wires than expected at ~30 ohms. Not sure if there is a spec range for these in the FSM, I'll try to look for that in the diagnostics section.

Jury is still out due to not a huge amount of driving but since doing the maf plug my trims are at A = 2.5-3.5, B = -13, C = -2.5, D = 0 (haven't had a chance to go WOT). So A looks much better, B looks much worse, and C is about the same. Oil needs to be changed in about 1000-km and I think it's time to do plugs (I've owned the car for about 30,000 km and haven't done them yet, but they have been checked and no issues found). Could be high vacuum in B range is pulling oil past valve seals (or rings possibly?) and due to my short drives the oil has a lot of gas in it (I mostly see B on decel). I do 4000 km oil changes due to the short trips and gas contamination in the oil but maybe I need to shorten it even more.

I know, but if I was not getting a good ground from the battery that could be why the maf connector issue wasn't showing up the same way yours was (multiple grounding issues possibly). Now that I think I have a decent connection at the battery, the maf seems to be doing the same as yours, although I haven't checked that connection explicitly in the last week. So basically, I think there was a poor voltage supply, as well as possibly poor connection at the sensor.

After playing around with the battery cables my B and C trims have done exactly what you described. I think my negative battery cable needs to be replaced - I peeled back the insulation a bit and the cable is very corroded. We'll see once the maf connector gets here (supposed to be Thursday).

Yep. Calgary

Cleaned the battery terminals. Just replaced my 9 year old red top with a new higher amp battery and now the car is hard starting (it wasn't before on the red top). It's a Canadian Tire battery, but the higher amp one. It could still be crap. Car ran great on the drive to work, no stalling issues after the battery reset. I hope it's the same this afternoon. Temps are down to -21°C and -28°C with the wind chill.

I'll report back once I get it installed. I'm crossing my fingers it's something this simple instead of, say, redoing the TGV gaskets again.

I've looked at that before, maybe you even suggested it last winter. My values are stable, they'll be like this all winter, and then return to normal when it warms up. The only time they change is when I change fuel brands, but that only affects C and D. I might need to do that plug just to see what happens. Wiggling the plug and harness doesn't cause anything unusual to happen but could still be a less than ideal connection.

Played around with idle rpm on the drive to work today. Cold weather stalling at stops has returned but increasing the idle rpm didn't work this morning like it did last year*. Still no vacuum/boost leaks that I can find but AF Learning A is at -7 and B is at +9, C is at -3 and D is at 0. Injectors were replaced in the spring with reconditioned and tested OEM, valve cover breather hoses were replaced at the same time. TGV gaskets and intake manifold gaskets were replaced a couple of years ago. Not sure what to do other than try a different shop? *at one point I had adjusted idle to +300, idle was at 750 rpm, and idle error was at 0%, meaning the engine otherwise would've wanted to be at 450 rpm??? Coolant temps looked good (185) and AF sensor seems to be working properly (both CT and AF sensors were replaced about a year ago with OEM). Stage 0 ACN 91, no mods, global timing pulled 2° I believe, due to crap fuel.

Very nice!

Drove the 2005 around in the slush and snow today...and signed over the ownership of the 2007 to the insurance company, sigh.

Swapped the winter tires on and installed the Rally Armor mud flaps that were on the 2007, onto the 2005. Not a big fan of the mud flaps on a blue car but it should protect the paint a fair amount.

Went to the body shop's estimates location and pulled my license plate off. Currently, without even evaluating the value of the car, insurance is saying they are going to write it off. I'm waiting for their offer but I've already supplied them receipts for the last two years totally over $7k CAD. Estimate came in at $6k CAD. Closest comparable is an 08 Outback XT for $9K with unknown mechanical condition. Other option is to update (not upgrade) to a 5th gen but GTs or 3.6Rs are pretty hard to find around here.

Got back at the rust on the rear quarter of the 2005 with POR15. This time I stirred it properly and it cured in a few hours. Still need to sand and paint over it sometime this week while the weather holds out.

I stripped the accessories off my 2007 (rally armor mud flaps, roof rack cross bars, summer wheels, weathertech floor mats etc.) since some moron decided to make a right turn from the left lane and ran over the front of the car. I'm guessing it'll be a write-off. Here are the easy to identify parts that are broken: left fender left fender liner left headlight (my beloved TSX-R HID conversions) bumper beam bumper cover grill Parts that are likely broken or need to be replaced: trans oil filter trans filter lines rad support battery washer fluid fill tube possibly hood (fender is pushed under it so can't really tell, or open it even) possibly timing covers or other engine damage (frame is pushed right probably 6-8").

Does this look like it will fit the front as well? I've got a chronically creaking front sway bar that is a 22mm Whiteline.

I forgot about trying the teflon tape. Thanks for reminding me. traildogck = CKE. If the teflon tape doesn't work I'll reach out to him to see what he can do. Currently he doesn't have any 22-mm bushings listed on eBay.