lagwagon

Same place, in theory you’d just get more money for refined or partially refined material vs. handing them your whole cat or even just the honeycomb, in practice you might actually get less since a recycler can’t actual tell what you are handing them unless they can visually identify that it came from a cat. Edit: if you can prove what you are giving them, they should give you a better price. Like give them the refining process and after they have had some shipments tested well (recyclers just resell this stuff too), and you establish a relationship with them, they will trust what they are getting from you.

Selling cats can be legitimate and usually can be done locally at a metal recycler. It is a hotbed for online fraud since it is so profitable and people get green eyes when they are offered $500 for something they think is junk. Platinum and palladium can be worth quite a bit of money but often people will try to cut out the honeycomb and do some refining themselves (without safety or environmental controls). Personally, I would go the legitimate, local route to ensure everything is being processed safely, both for the person and the environment. If you can make sure the person buying online is handling things properly, there should be no concern, which may be your only option if you aren't in a place with a local recycler.

I tried from top and bottom but there is no room from the top. Could be differences in the fuel and evap lines, heater core and trans cooler lines with the 5eat. I even pulled the intercooler to get more room. From the bottom should be easy. Car was on jack stands. I could’ve replaced the u-joint in 5 minutes after jacking it up. I loosened both upper and lower clevis bolts as well. I want to check this out on my 2005 (m/t) and see how different it is.

I struggled to install a Perrin steering damper lockdown kit and ultimately failed. I can’t see how this thing fits on the shaft. The plates are 5.5mm thick and the gap between the plates on the steering shaft is around 3mm wide. I jammed everything together as hard as I could and the long bolt was still too short to reach. I would’ve pulled the shaft to install on the bench but after measuring I figured there was no way it would fit together.

OEM spec.B, B6 and B8 use the spec.B top hats. It is unclear what the B4 struts will use as they haven't released any information. If they are targeting 2.5i and GT customers, then one would assume these will use the same mount as those cars and likely not be an inverted strut. If they are inverted, they most likely will use the spec.B mount.

Pic from this morning.

Part number in original post and in tehspud's post (19-158686). No part number for fronts yet. I can pm you contact info but I'm not posting it online.

Hi All, I have recently run across B4 rear shocks for our chassis and I was intrigued as to what these would be like. For those not familiar with Bilstein naming, B4s are usually OE-like replacement parts, sometimes for cars that came with Bilsteins and the vehicle manufacturer is no longer selling the OEM-part number, or for vehicles that didn't use OEM Bilsteins. For our chassis, there are three different suspension setups (2.5i, 2.5 GT, and GT Spec.B) that vary noticeably in performance (both in feel and instrumented testing). These B4s show up in the catalog search with the same part number (19-158686) for all three models of Legacy. I emailed Bilstein and so far have not received a clear answer as to what model these are OE-like. If anybody has tried these, please add your feedback to this thread. As of now, only rears are available, as COVID has delayed development and manufacturing of the B4 front struts. Questions like strut construction (mono vs twin tube, inverted vs conventional, strut mount compatibility etc.) can't be released at this time, according to Bilstein. These look like a good option (depending on performance) as they are priced similarly to KYBs. Perhaps if enough people email Bilstein about the front struts, more information will be released, or timelines will decrease (both wishful thinking on a 15 year old chassis, I know).

2005: Greased the left side swaybar end links and frame bushing and reinstalled. Will do the right side some time this week. Sprayed upper control arm nuts and bolts with liquid wrench and tried to figure out which tools I can actually fit it there, not looking good on that front. 2007: Dropped off at Subaru to fix their leaking axle seal job.

Pulled the left shock and lock-tighted the nut below the saggy butt spacer, which didn't fix the squeak. Disconnected the sway bar, which didn't fix the squeak. Silicone sprayed all the bushings which didn't fix the squeak (just to see if it would help identify if it was a bushing, not expecting a "fix"). Ordered new rear upper control arms (last of the OEM bushings in the rear, at 245,000 kms!) from Rock Auto. I'll throw those in when they get here and if that doesn't fix it then I'm taking off all the arms (not the trailing link) and greasing every bushing.

I pulled the floor panels out of the trunk and think I diagnosed a creaking/grinding noise in my 05 to a loose bolt in the shock mount. I have primitive spacers with bolts and one of the bolts is just spinning so the intermediate nut must not have been tightened properly. Hopefully I can get the top nut off tonight and get everything pulled apart and tightened up. If it is still making noise, perhaps I will need a new shock mount and get rid of the spacers. This leads to my question - what is the ride height difference between wagon STi pinks and King KSRS-29 and KSRL-29 (I don't know which ones I have sitting in the box). I'll do some searching but I don't recall seeing much about the KSRS-29.

I have heard mixed messages about the GS AOS if you are autocrossing or tracking your car, apparently one of the lines can fill with oil while cornering and starve the bearings. If you are in a cold area you need to be careful about running a catch can setup as they can freeze up. There are versions that run coolant lines to keep them warm but I’ve heard they can and do still freeze up at really cold temperatures. I had a pcv valve freeze up once and it blew my cam seals out from the pressure, even staying out of boost. You can avoid this with a stock car by being sensible in cold weather and perhaps blocking part of the intercooler above the pcv but when you start messing with the system you need to be even more careful and critical of the placement of lines and valves.

Maybe that’s why it pissed all over my floor today. That stuff stinks! Any tips to get it cleaned off concrete?

Update: o2 sensor swap seems to have gotten rid of 90% of the vibrations. There is a clicking on left turns now, probably the rebooted used axle. Now the vibration feels like a minor wheel balance issue but with the clicking joint and leaking rear diff (thanks dealership!) it could be the axle and/or the diff. I also noticed one of the front sway bar bushings is ripped and it looks like the bar might actually be able to hit the crossing member through the crack. Might tackle that this week before the car goes back to Subaru for them to fix their mistake on the axle seal.

New front o2 sensor in my 2007. Made a major difference in the issues it’s having. Still clicking on left u-turns and dumped half its rear diff fluid on my garage floor while jacked up for o2 sensor change. Going back to Subaru this week to replace the axle seal, again (it wasn’t leaking before they changed that axle, and they did put in a new seal).

Watching your videos, I think you probably can do the swap but without a lift it is probably going to be pretty hard. Have you thought about doing it at U-Wrench? If you are not already, connect with the Calgary Subaru Club on FB or Western Subaru Club and ask around if anybody can give you some tips if you get stuck on anything, or can come give you hand if something is a two person op.

What brand is that up pipe?

The LF and LR axles are from the dealership so I assume they have some sort of warranty, probably 1 year. The RF was rebooted so no warranty really. I have been thinking it could be the bearings in the center diff carrier, but only because I know people have had issues with them at higher horsepower, not because I know what it would feel like. There are still no noises during normal driving, which I think would generally be a strong indicator of the location of the problem. I don’t have the skills, tools or time to tackle something like the bearings myself and it doesn’t make sense to put the money into it that a shop would charge. It really is a shame since the exterior and interior of the car are probably the cleanest you’ll find for a 4th gen GT wagon at this point, and it has thousands of dollars of new parts on it.

Other than a stall speed test, I'm not sure. I'd have to reread that section of the FSM. EDIT: Looks like stall speed test is all I can do without any DTCs.

Well, drive shaft is in, straight, balanced, new u-joints and it didn't fix anything. This is now getting into the range of repair costs that are unreasonable given the market value of the car. I guess this is why subi bois are always asking "part-out?" on any sale post. Car can't realistically be sold for more than a few grand like this, which is about the value of all the new parts its had put on in the last two years. I think I might try a new O2 sensor, even though the current (A) readings look ok based on the response curve I found on nasioc, and a Perrin steering lock down. If those don't help then its either getting traded in or I'm swapping all the body panels and as much interior as possible into the 2005. Maybe even the engine. Unfortunately, I can't do much work myself so I'm leaning toward trade in. Also, the new axle seal the subi dealer installed when replacing the rear axle is leaking so I'll have a pooched rear diff soon as well if they can't get me in right away.

I’m partial to 2007s. I wouldn’t call them rare where I live. There are more of them around than manual wagon GTs. I think within a 3 hour drive there are 3 for sale right now but it took me over a year to find a manual wagon that wasn’t rusted out. I’m also partial to good transmissions and enough head room. The spec.B has only one of those. I’m also partial to saving money and a used engine and full 6 speed swap (Legacy, not sti or sg9) costs almost as much as I can buy the full car for. I would love an sg9 transmission for the same reasons as Marvick08GT but they seem relatively rare and decent condition sg9 STIs (jdm imports) are running about $15,000 cad around here right now.

Just a discussion topic related to how desirable people see spec.Bs to be. What would you do/not do to a spec.B? Would you take a spec.B with rusty rear quarters and restore it? Would you strip one down to make a race car? Would you strip a running example as a donor car for another car? Say, to transplant parts into a wagon? I'm not talking about the whole side of the hobby of installing jdm parts, or written off cars, where we don't really need to think about potentially desirable cars being cut up, but NA cars that are somewhat limited in availability, "special" etc. I think we are getting close to the point where clean, stock spec.Bs with low mileage will bottom out in terms of market value, and possibly start to come up slightly. I'm not thinking to the point of it being an investment but perhaps to the point where people may oppose cutting up or parting out a running, driving car. What do you all think?

Really liking the lip and wheels. What lip is it? Link?

It's possible that it helped the 2005. Learning 1A seemed to be having problems settling down after replacing all the intake tract o-rings and gaskets, turbo inlet and intercooler to tb pipe. It seems to have settled down to normal numbers and holding (no more wild swings from 0 to +9%). I don't have an AP on the 2007 so not sure if it did anything but my wife said the car felt better, could be placebo effect, shouldn't have told what I was doing.

Cleaned the maf sensor on both cars. Can't really see the maf wire but the IAT wires were pretty dirty on the leading half. Didn't really notice much, if any difference driving, even with the paper towel catching quite a bit a dirt that flushed out. I didn't reset either ECU. Is that a good idea, or will it adjust on its own? (Does it do a key on calibration that needs to be reset?)