lagwagon

I've driven a first gen Tundra extensively and will say that steering weight and pedal feel is lighter than both my LGTs. Low end is also better on the Tundra but overall the LGT is much faster, even with the 5EAT. I haven't driven a pre-SI drive 5EAT so I'm not sure how they feel but on my 2007, somewhere between S and S# feels similar in response to my 5MT, but still a bunch slower. As far as trucks go, I thought the Tundra was about the best balance between steering and pedal effort and feedback for that type of vehicle. Dodge's have underboosted brakes (very heavy) and good steering, GMs have overboosted steering and no pedal feel at all, and Fords I don't have much experience with. Also, two LGTs can have significantly different steering feel. My 2005 steering is much lighter than my 2007, which is nice at low speeds but not so nice at highway speeds. This can be due to different brand ATF in the system, fluid condition and leaks and overall wear. Tires and wheels (if non-stock scrub radius) also make a difference. Anyways, I don't think you will be able to get the sedan/sedan-based wagon to feel the same as a full sized SUV but you could replace the fluids to change steering and pedal feel and address any other leaks/wear in the rack, suspension, brake pads/discs and possibly suspension. EDIT: my old co-worker had an upgraded clutch in his sedan and it was so heavy my kneecap popped out while driving it. My stock clutch feels pretty light (but not Honda Civic or VW Golf light). I actually stayed away from LGTs for years as a result of that experience, and was the reason I went with a 5EAT first, when I did eventually pick one up.

Took my car out to pick up dinner, hit 248 000 kms.

I spent the day washing, did fall out treatment on the hatch, clay bar on the hatch and a few other spots, touched up and cleared rock chips, polished (by hand, no machine here) and waxed my wife’s car. Probably spent 6 hours of actual work, spread over 12 hours.

^This

I used the Sylvania kit as well. Be careful using a pressure washer. I got too close for too long trying to get bugs off and it stripped the UV coating off. I would hand wash at home and let it soak really well (washing at home is not allowed in my city unfortunately).

I bought them from Amazon.ca (I'm in Canada), StrongArm brand, 6222L and 6222R. It was cheaper to not buy them as a set for some reason. I saved about $30CAD buying separately (paid $80 shipped, the set was $111 shipped).

Yesterday - two cars washes and cleaning both interiors, only vacuumed wife's car since nobody eats in my car. Saturday - new hatch lift struts for my car, yay, no more hatch randomly falling on my head when its cold out.

My second gear whines like that. It hasn't popped out of gear on me ever but I've only driven the car about 4000-km in the last year since I bought it. I assume there is some damage to the gears from a hard shift that partially unmeshed them (case flex) but there is no banging or popping so I assume it will hold indefinitely without additional abuse.

Bump and small update. I'm now getting apparent rev hang between shifts, which is new. AF Learning B is now pegged at -15%. AF Correction 1 is still fighting AF Learning A. Car still wants to stall when coming to a quick stop, RPMs dropped down under 500. Brand new oil smells like fuel, but I need to compare it to another car to be sure it is more smelly than normal but it certainly smells far worse than fresh oil in the jug and it only has like 200-km on it at most. I might need to have the injectors pulled and tested. Is there a link to a thread with fuel pressure test pieces/requirements that lists the right fittings? I have various NPT hose barb fittings and -4AN pushlock line to run a gauge on the windshield but I'm guessing I need a 1/4" tee fitting and a small piece of fuel line of some sort, not pushlock. EDIT: I guess I need a 5/16" x 5/16" x 1/4" tee and some 5/16" hose.

That sucks for people that don't live in the USA and can still use them legally.

I would agree if it wasn’t a stock tune* that there could be a scaling issue with the MAF, but I think there is something else going on to cause AF Learning values and correction values to oscillate almost 180 degrees out of phase, with the learning values being leading slightly, when it should be the opposite. *I know stage 0 isn’t exactly stock but in this case the fuel algorithm should be identical with slightly tweaked table and target values.

Here are pics of the sensor. The front of the sensor is very consistent, white coating and the back is a bit flakey. Comparison to another old sensor that also failed but likely due to age. The fuel trims are back to where they were before changing the sensor, despite the AFRs looking more stable, but still rich. AF Learning A is -7, B is -14.4. C and D are -2.3 and -1.4. Comm. Fuel Final is 14.3 but at hot idle the car is running 14.1-ish. For a while, fuel correction 1 and AF learning 1 were both at 0 at idle, then AF learning 1 started to pull fuel and fuel correction 1 started adding fuel. The sum stayed within 2% of 0 and AFRs are consistent at 14.1. I'm not sure why AF Learning 1 would swing negative if correction 1 is at 0. I'm missing something about the logic here but isn't correction 1 short term and drives changes to AF learning if it trends away from 0? Why would they stay in lock step but opposite signs? Doesn't that just mean that the ECU is correcting for an erroneous correction (learning 1) it made? Especially when AF Learning is changing rapidly without any change in correction 1? Can anybody confirm potential causes of negative Learning A and B? Leaking injector, fuel pressure too high, failing FPR, pin hole vacuum leak on the vaccum line to the FPR (too small to cause an overall decrease in vacuum but close enough to the FPR to raise fuel pressure???), MAF problem (its stock FYI so not a scaling issue per se). I've found very limited search results of similar fueling trends, none on legacygt.com, and none with an actual resolution. Sorry, I don't fully know all the Subaru systems like the TGVs, DBW system/IAC system etc. so not sure if there is something obvious that should be checked.

It looks more like the coolant contamination picture on walker’s site. I’m having issues with mobile uploads, I’ll try to post pics tomorrow.

I replaced the O2 sensor last night. The sensor is contaminated. Either some sort of sealant or possibly coolant. It's very white and flakey, but no green crystals I would expect from coolant. Also found the ground strap near the front O2 is missing and the heat shield has a sheet metal screw between it and the manifold and other tears in the metal and contact points with the manifold. Overall a bit of a mess down there. I think there was actually some mechanical damage to the sensor and/or it wasn't screwed in all the way since the car sounds way different now. I didn't data log last night but AFRs were pretty steady at idle and while driving, very nice to see compared to the old sensor that oscillated like a narrow band sensor. AF Learning B started to come down as well (only 15 minutes of drive time so only dropped 1%. Now I wonder what the EGT, pre-cat, cat and rear O2 sensor look like and what actually caused the contamination...(don't yell at me for still having the EGT and pre-cat at 250,000 kms) EDIT: also, Denso 234-9120 is not an exact replacement sensor. Harness is about 4" longer and the attachment clips are not in the right locations and can't be moved without destroying them.

The Bilsteins install identically to the regular GT parts, assuming they are assembled strut/spring/mounts and shock/spring/mounts. Whatever plans you had you'll still need to do, minimum of bump stops and rear upper arms if you can get it aligned in spec, more parts if you can't get the alignment in spec. Personally, I would use spacers instead of longer springs since I wouldn't want to lose the droop travel. Rallysportdirect does sell shock rod extenders if you are using a lift spring over 3/4" but then you need to pull apart the rear shocks and I don't know if those extenders are compatible with Bilstein shocks.

Too soft and you'll feel the engine and trans banging every time the drivetrain loads and unloads, too hard and you'll feel constant vibrations. Neither are very good for the drivetrain but I'd rather risk bolts loosening with hard mounts than snapping with soft mounts. Stock mounts are generally as soft as possible without resulting in any loud banging during shifts, or enough movement to upset the suspension during shifts. Just soft enough that people don't complain about a banging feeling or noise.

DAM is 1 all the time, no changes there at any load or rpm. Fine Knock Learn and feedback knock correction are both 0 all the time. There is some Dynamic Advance at high load, but I don't actually know what that means, it gets as high as 5° and spark timing peaks at 41° at high load. Several of these guys used to work at diesel tuning shops so I think they understand the value of higher pressures during leak tests but I haven't actually asked what pressure they take it to. The problem only seems to be at idle anyways so I wouldn't expect a high pressure needed to find anything. I actually thought it was a vacuum leak until they changed the coolant temp sensor and the learned values flipped from positive to negative, but still very high. I do have a new O2 sensor but I was a bit too tired to install it this weekend and I want to try and get a log of the AF learned values and AFR before swapping it out so I have before and after data. Another weird thing is that the AF learning 1 doesn't match AF learning A, B, C or D when I enter logging view (logging or not) but does match when I enter live data. You can see this in the logs as well, where AF learning 1 uses a huge range of values, instead of just the 4 learned values. It seems like entering logging view starts to mess up the computer or something.

I put in a known good one from my other car after confirming no difference in operation with a brand new one. I did clean it as well. Swapping the new one in doesn’t change anything. I haven’t ruled out a wiring issue with the maf but wiggling the wires doesn’t seem to change anything.

Hi Guys, I'm having a rough idle issue that I need some help with. Here is the run down: 2005 GT manual, Accessport V2 on stage 0 OTS map. In the summer, AF Learning C value was really negative so I had the mechanic smoke test it and it was leaking from a few places. I had them replace all the seals from the turbo inlet to the TGV seals and the boost leak went away but it seemed like it now had a slight vacuum leak. When it is cold out, the car idles fine on cold start until it hits some point (I assume it is cross over from open to closed loop). Then it idles like crap until it is fully warmed up (coolant, and general engine bay temp needs to get up as well). AF Learning A was pretty high and was swinging from 0 to 18 over the course of a few drives in a never ending cycle. My mechanic did a smoke test, pressure test, fuel pressure test, propane test and full diagnostics. The coolant temp sensor was out of range so they changed that out but there was no vacuum or boost leak. They did say the car stuttered when they propane tested near the front O2 but that makes sense to me since they pull calibration air through the wire harness, right? They also did a fuel system pressure test and service starting at the pump housing (not just a pour in cleaner). Now the car is tending to run really negative AF learning values: often correction will be at +8, Learning A will be at -8 to -10 (currently about -3.5, so I think it's mid cycle again), and the AFR will be in the 13s at idle, especially when I come to a stop, AFR will drop and hold at high 12s low 13 for 5-10 seconds. Learning B is at -14.8 right now, C and D are fine. It's got me a bit confused as to why AF correction is so high when the car is running super rich at idle. I did some data logging but was having problems with losing connection so I reset the log list and wasn't able to log all four AF learning values or AVCS. Anyways, with the data available, can anybody see anything obvious going on here? Log 7 is just general driving, log 8 is a third gear pull from 2500-6000 rpm. datalog7.csv datalog8.csv

I installed new strut top dust covers. New strut mounts don't include them I guess. Also got one new hatch strut (other one is somewhere between Amazon and me), a new front O2 sensor and a new cowl end cover piece that disappeared at some point. So a few little bits to install this weekend. Also drove the car around and tried to data log. That didn't go so swimmingly. The AP lost comms about half the time and I ended up with a bunch of corrupted logs. I'm not really surprised since my scan tool won't connect to the car but the AP will, so something is wrong with the OBD2 connector or wiring.

Got back from my first ski trip after installing my ski box on my wife's wagon. The box itself is a Thule Summit from probably 1997. My dad bought it when we moved farther from the mountains (1.5 hours to 3.5 hours) and needed the extra room in the car. the box has never been stored outside and the plastic looks brand new. This box was designed for square bars but I have the Subaru aero bars. I bought Rhino Racks universal aero bar u-bolts, lined everything up and drilled new holes. Since this is a long box (fits >215-cm skis) I needed to have the box within 1-cm of the hatch spoiler when it is lifted, otherwise half the box is in front of the forward bars. It took a lot of adjusting to get it to sit right (moving bars, moving the box etc.) I think I spent 8 hours getting it perfect. I totally appreciate why new boxes use pincers on slide rails inside the box, that system probably takes about 15 minutes to set up perfectly. I was super careful to make sure the u-bolts had three points of contact on the aero bars before tightening them down so nothing gets crushed. I drive in a high wind area (Highway 22 and 3 in Alberta) so in addition to being very careful about the install, I am using a ratchet strap around the front of the box. I've seen a few box lids ripped off their boxes on Highway 22 (along with destroyed tonneau covers and caps, flipped tractor-trailers etc.) so I didn't want to chance it. I've personally seen over 100-km/hr on the wind speed warning signs and I think the record since they installed them a couple years ago is over 150-km/hr.

I believe mine were 18AWG but after the second failure of all wires being cut I replaced the section through the bellows with 12 or 14AWG. It was a bit tighter fit but its been 2 years now with no further problems.

For these cars the lift spacers go on top of the mounts so you probably will need longer studs. Stock mounts need longer studs for spacers thicker than about 1/4" or 3/8" in the rear* and probably for any spacer in the front. *people say 3/8" is fine without longer studs but mine only had 1/4" spacers and the top thread was not showing above the nut, which imo is not safe. I upsized to 1/2" spacers and new bolts where included to replace the studs.

I setup the cross bars on the wife's wagon and tried to find aero bar u-bolts to get the ski box mounted. Apparently nobody has this most basic install kit in stock. Also diagnosed a cold idle vacuum leak on my wagon. Learning A gets up to +18% if you go through a few cold starts with no hot idle time and hot idle then is running really rich, like in the 13s. Learning A comes back down after some hot idle time but it needs more time than what I typically get in a day.

If you can get Wix filters in NZ you should be able to get them cheaper. They are carbon activated. I get them in Canada for about $10 so $23NZD for two, shipped, is pretty good. SuperCheap Auto has Sakura brand ones (SPO4160242) for $22NZD as well if you have one local and can't wait for shipping. Not sure if it is carbon activated though.