lagwagon

Ok, I swapped the OCVs and did another initialization but things went pretty different. I followed the same procedure - cold start for 1 minute, hold 2000 rpm for 1 minute, hold 3000 rpm for 1 minute. I also replaced a PCV hose that literally exploded when I pulled it off. The first time I did this (last week), the car started with 0° avcs both sides and initialized when I held 3000 rpm. Duty cycle went up to ~45% and advance went up to ~15°. This time, the car started with 7-8° advance at 9.41% duty cycle and didn't seem to initialize. I am hoping this is a result of having the battery disconnected and the car going back through a full relearn, also, I have not pulled the 1° of timing yet. Datalog4 - 3000rpm avcs initialization is the log from last week where it seems to have initialized properly but still shows a mismatch in advance for the same duty cycle. Datalog10 - swapped ocvs initialization is from the cold start today where it doesn't seem to have initialized. ACVS stays mostly at 7-9° and duty cycle stays at 9.41% the whole time. I guess I'll try again tomorrow, or after some driving but I'm a bit worried that the car is starting up with advance that doesn't seem to match what that duty cycle should get. All my other logs show 0° advance at 9.41% dc. Other than that, not sure what's going on. datalog4 - 3000rpm avcs initialization.csv datalog10 - swapped ocvs initialization.csv

Swapped the OCVs from left to right and replaced one PCV hose (what a btch that was). More details are in my other thread, with logs, if you can help review what is going on.

I'm going to guess $2-3000CAD to weld in the patch panels and blend the paint. I could probably find somebody on Kijiji (like Craigslist for Canada, except for Vancouver, which actually uses Craigslist) for $500 per side. There seem to be a few pretty good quality home-based body guys doing cut outs and blends, even with warranty (whatever that means on a home-based business).

Swapped two sets of winter tires on last night, new studded Nokian Nordman 7s on my wife's car, and the old x-ice xi3s on my car. I was disappointed to see that the paint is already bubbling on my quick rust repair (sanded to bare metal and repainted, but its coming from inside the panel). I was hoping it would last through the winter but I guess not. At least the bubbles are very small and I can probably grind and por-15 them pretty quickly and touch up with paint pen. Anybody use the Subiesaver rear arch panels? Not sure if I should order those, or just leave it up to the body shop to figure out their preferred method.

I thought those codes are more related to a flow restriction after the OCV and cam gear that results in the cam being stuck at high advance, like when the filter right before the turbo is plugged. If we assume that my right side is correct, then there is a restriction before my left OCV or cam gear and if we assume my left side is correct, then there is a restriction after my right side OCV or cam gear. I know my turbo has been replaced some time in the last 80,000 kms (5 years) so I assume there is no filter in the turbo feed and that my right side is correct and left side is incorrect. I did the cold start, 2000 rpm hold and 3000 rpm hold test/initialization and consistently the left side is not advancing when duty cycle is applied, for about 5 time steps (sorry don't remember what the time step is in the logs), and then to get to the same advance as the right side it has 2-5% more duty cycle. I do have logs of these tests but I didn't think there is any point in posting them as the next step is to start pulling the oil lines, checking filters and possibly swapping OCVs. I just need to get some time to grab new crush washers so I can actually do it and not end up with a leak.

Its the 2005 GT 5MT. Its on a Cobb OTS stage 1 tune with 1° of timing pulled.

I have looked through the MIL/DTC table in the FSM and haven't found anything related to AVCS angle, only circuit errors for the OCV (high or low voltage errors). I don't think it cares if the angle is wrong. No updates on anything yet. Plan is order some crush washers and take the left near-OCV banjo bolt out and check the screen/filter (if there is one) and if it is clean, then replace the OCV. If it is dirty, I'll pull it out and see if anything changes. My car is a March 2005 build date so possibly I don't have a filter in the accessible end of the oil feed line. I've got 90,000 kms (or 5 years) to go before I need to do the timing belt so I'd rather not have to replace the cam gear(s) right now but if this is causing the knock them I'll probably need to do it. I suppose there could be false knock from the plunger unsticking, or actual knock from the cams being out of sync.

Welcome to the hatch broken wire club, also known as the Legacy Wagon club. Any time something electrical in the hatch isn't working, check and double check the wires through the bellows for a crack or broken wire. I don't even try to do any testing, I just keep checking the wires until I find the broken one, and there has always been a broken one.

Edited down log from earlier in the drive showing mismatch in avcs angle, consistently the left side is not advancing when it should. Interesting, but doesn't seem related to any knock in any of these logs. I guess if it happens at higher load then it could. It looks like either the ocv or cam gear is sticking, the plunger is sticking or the oil pressure on the left head is too low at the engagement rpm. datalog29 - avcs.csv

OK, the log that had the tail end of the misfire event was corrupted, along with about 8 other logs I took today. Here are 4 logs (almost continuous driving/logging): datalog35: take off from a light a do a mid throttle pull, big mismatch between L and R avcs angles, like 8-9°, this seems like it could be a major issue but is also one of the only times I've seen more than a 2° mismatch. datalog36: wot blip, not much to see here I think datalog37: short wot pull in 2nd gear downhill datalog38: beginning of the log is going around a corner, then a longer wot pull in 2nd gear uphill If you are looking at knock sum, I got stuck behind an accident for about 20-30 minutes and was stop and go that whole time which is why KS was already at 14. I have earlier logs from the drive and most of the knock events look to be starting off in 1st gear. From 17 to 20 was a from a stop light as well. Sucks that I lost a bunch of logs that I think would've shown something useful but my AP lost comms twice on this drive and I assume that is when it happened. datalog35 mid throttle pull avcs mismatch.csv datalog36 wot blip.csv datalog37 wot 2nd downhill.csv datalog38 wot 2nd uphill.csv

From what I've read, for 2005 MY, peak avcs is 20° in the midrange. 07+ apparently had a different exhaust cam and could advance intake up to 40°. I did catch the tail end of a misfire event this morning but can't pull the log at work. I was cruising at 60 km/hr in 4th gear (~2000 rpm). FBKC was at zero, then instantaneously jumped to -12 and started tapering down to zero within about 20 seconds. I think I caught it from -7 back to 0. I didn't feel or hear anything and had been at the same speed for about 30 seconds prior to the event and about 10 seconds after (will see exact numbers in the log). I think this is either a minor electrical issue, or a broken ring land, but I'm probably just freaking out.

Here is the best log from this weekend with the knock parameters logged. I couldn't get a longer log, or one with WOT apparently, but at least you can see that the ecu is advancing timing under steady rpm/load. I will try to get a wot log but honestly, the misfiring occurred for about 2-3 minutes and went away so I'm probably not going to get a log while it's happening. I can't see a mechanical issue being that transient under cruise conditions (other than maybe a dying fuel pump, or an injector) so I'm thinking it is probably an electrical issue. datalog17.csv

I think you might be on to something there, I seem to remember last time I logged a bunch of wot pulls that the advance got up to ~50°. I think I posted those logs somewhere on the board...I'll try to find them. EDIT: I confused avcs with ignition timing, which I didn't log this time, and I didn't log avcs last time.

Correct, no reset. I did log this weekend with DAM, FKL and FKC included but trying to get a similar state as the previous misfiring won't log (2-3 minutes, long, gentle uphill at 100 km/hr). I can only get it to log for 20-30 seconds. I'll try to get those posted tonight. I could drop the fuel trims and maybe a couple other parameters to see if I can get it to log but with such an intermittent problem something could be missed, like a crazy avcs mismatch between left and right or something like that.

I spent yesterday rewiring my wife's hatch harness as her wiper wasn't stopping at the correct spot. This is the third time it's been rewired. First was by a Subaru specialist shop, that lasted 6 months (I found twisted and taped, non-soldered connections), second was by me, which has lasted since the end of 2018 and third was yesterday. The sections of wire that I left in place from the first rewire have all cracked and have now all been replaced. I'm not sure what size they used but it was only 4 strand, while my 18ga looks to be 8 or 10 strand. I cleaned up the connections a bit and pulled longer lengths of twisted sets through the bellows so hopefully they won't break again (although there are still individual wires, not twisted in a bundle. Some of the body side harness wires are starting to dry rot and crack, well away from any connections or bends so I'm thinking the next time this happens it'll need to go to a specialist to have much more replaced than I am able to do with my typical 4 hour time slot each weekend.

Thanks for the succinct explanation. I didn't understand that, even after reading that massive archive thread about the knock correction system. Pleides, as far as I know, my injectors are original. I have wanted to do top feeds and TGV delete but then I need to get it tuned properly and all told I'd be looking at close to $2000CAD. Money I am also saving for a new engine (I'm at 253,000 kms). Am I right in assuming even just moving to top feeds would require a tune?

Here is a datalog with cylinder roughness. The first log I took had no useful parameters being monitored. I'll need to turn on some more knock parameters and see if it will log with them selected. I only see counts of 1 in cyl 3 and 4, including a short wot run in 2nd gear, up a steep hill (near the end of the log). Everything looks ok but all the roughness seems to be at steady cruising. I'll try to take another log today. Current issue is my old laptop with USB 1.0 is incredibly slow and this took me over an hour just to save the log and transfer it to a USB stick to use on my main computer. For the Techron, not sure what that is or if it's available in Canada, never heard of it or seen it. Also, I don't think I can get non-E10 premium anymore. There is some local debate currently if Shell v-power is still E0 as they have removed the "ethanol-free" stickers and replaced them with "may contain up to 10% ethanol" stickers at some stations. Some tests have still shown no ethanol. The bad tank I had in the summer was Shell v-power 91, and honestly, the car ran like it was 87 so I haven't been back to that station and there isn't another Shell within 15-km of home so I'm running Petro-Canada 94 (E10) as it's the only 94 available near me. datalog15.csv

A and B are between -4 and -5, C and D are between -1 and 1, but really close to 0 (like -0.3 I think). Do you mean cylinder roughness? I've had a hard time logging multiple additional parameters, it usually crashes and doesn't log, probably because it's a V2.

Just trying to get my thoughts and memories down quickly before I can post a log to see what might be the problem here: Cruising at 100km/hr, slight uphill, 30 minutes into the drive, car starts misfiring slightly (no audible knock). Car starts smelling like gas (no other cars on the road). 10:30 pm, 0°C outside. Pull out the AP and plug it in and DAM is down to 0.2, start watching FKC and FKL (AP v2 so no multi gauge view) and don't see anything happening there. Misfiring is gone by the time I get the AP out. Gas smell goes away a few minutes later. This morning, DAM goes up to 0.4 in my 10 minute drive to work, still no FKC, FKL registers +0.9 (adding timing) under 2000 rpm a couple of times which isn't unusual. I have 1° pulled globally in the AP but otherwise OTS stage 1. Trying to figure out if DAM only reacts to preignition or if it will react to other misfire events. This felt like a lean miss or spark blowout, either of which could result in the gas smell if the computer dumped a ton of fuel to correct the lean condition, or I was smelling unburnt fuel from blowout. Car had an oil change less than 500-km ago and they usually pull the plugs to check them and they didn't say anything unusual was going on. Also had a coolant system pressure test and exhaust gas test done since I had some major misfiring/knock events (again nothing audible, but similar cruising conditions other than it was +37°C, not 0) on what I believe was a bad tank of gas in the summer. Everything came back fine on those tests. I'll post a log I took on the drive last night but I didn't see or feel anything unusual when it was logging.

I rebuilt my front GNP sway bar end links with new bushings and spaced the links better with washers so they aren't binding as much. I used the best used bushings from the front and rear to rebuild the rear end links and spaced them out better with the actual spacers, and some washers. I kind of hate that the mount on the trailing arm is not parallel to the sway bar ear. Why is that? I have heard that gd WRX/STis can flip their bar if they go to full droop, is that angle to stop that from happening? I don't think the multi-link rear has enough droop to allow the bar to flip anyways... Also, new whiteline swaybar bushings in the front. Not sure they were required but I figured while I'm chasing a popping noise I might as well do them too. No noises anymore, which is good. I'm sure it was the end links not being greased and the bushings being squished from the poor alignment without the washers/spacers.

I wet sanded and polished my rust repair. The paint looks like it laid down in layers - when sanded, there is a dark outline at the thinnest spots where it transitions. Not sure why, other than an effect of the paint and 1k in the same can. It did polish pretty easily but it is not as flat at the transitions as the separate paint and clear I did a few weeks ago. Possibly because I didn't flatten the primer enough this time, possibly because the two step process had enough thickness for me to flatten it without cutting through the clear. Either way, the paint is a better (but not good) match and the "quality" of the paint job is nowhere near as good looking as the two step process. Lesson (possibly) learned??? Use separate paint and clear, if you have time. Block sand the primer better (always a good idea).

That video is from Shogun506 on here if you feel the need to ask him any questions about that fit.

I might be an oddity but I had two X-VF switchbacks fail on me without a few weeks of each other. When I say fail, I mean they literally fell apart inside the headlight housing and I had to take the headlights out to fish out all the little pieces. They were only about 6 months old and were replaced under warranty but I switched back to a regular halogen which have been fine for over a year now. If you do buy them, don't wait around to install them, you want the full year warranty in operation in case anything happens. EDIT: I don't know about the ck base issue, when the retailer asked me I said I had been putting in regular bulbs (true) but I haven't replaced them in my 2005 yet, just the 2007. I will check when they need to be replaced and I'll update here as I think my 2005 is very early (no cabin filter etc.)

Somebody was quick...already sold.

I resprayed my rust repair with "color matched" paint, lol. First, it wrinkled on top of the paint from last week and I had to sand everything back to primer, second, it looks more like Newport Blue* than Atlantic Blue. Oh well. I also dropped my 10-mm inside the rear quarter and spent two sessions fishing it out. Finally got it with two magnets, one flexy, and one telescopic. I am probably more happy about fishing out the socket than the paint. *The darker color actually looks nicer, I'd say. Maybe that is what I'll get it repainted with when I get the panel cut out.