lagwagon

Love the DGM. My wife's car (formerly my car) is DGM and it is a great color. Also reminds me of Super Gramps' Squid Juice.

cke_ssp is traildogck on here. I like his brackets more than the AVO ones, good choice.

Replaced the oil fill tube that I broke because not thinking. Managed to arc from the positive battery terminal to my ratchet but felt nothing, other than fear, stupidity and then a nauseous feeling. I think I need to call it in on working on the engine...every time I try to do something, I break something. Not a good feeling after all the car stuff I've done over the years. Maybe this is what wrenching on old cars is like.

Good point for Americans. You can register a car here without being a citizen. Lots of Americans have <25yo cars stored up here, waiting for them to become importable (GTRs etc.) Also, we don't really have "titles" like in the USA, we have "ownership documents", of which either a bill of sale, or registration are the most common. The only real requirement to register a vehicle is to have insurance on it.

Thank you sir!

Yeah, on one car I had the insane squeak but no vibration, and one car with no squeak and piles of vibration. The one with no squeak was torn much much worse than the one with the squeak, and never had any squeak the entire time it was vibrating.

I had a similar vibration that turned out to be mostly a torn rear upper control arm bushing, but I have found that at the age these cars are, almost nothing short of replacing every rubber component will completely get rid of most vibrations. Every part I changed made a small improvement but the two biggest were the front O2 sensor and the rear upper control arm bushings. I still have a small amount of vibration around 2200 rpm, when the car is loaded around a corner, and a small amount of bucking when I let off the gas when in fifth gear (5eat), which I believe is motor mounts.

Tried to install my rebuilt injectors...all the pcv lines are so hard and brittle I was worried about breaking them to get to the injectors so I stopped. I did manage to break the oil fill tube though, which is also apparently very brittle. As consolation, I cleaned my wife's car. It was full of mud. I was not happy. I want to take the weathertech floor mats for my car, thinking she doesn't deserve them if that is the way her and the kids are going to treat the car, but that is counterproductive to keeping the car clean. I posted a question in the tuning thread about injectors if anybody hasn't seen it and can provide some insight: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/differences-sidefeed-injectorsi-287814.html

I found the same thing, even after a year of the pinks, with a 1/2" spacer they sit about the same as the Kings did. I'm curious about the load issues though, as I find the pinks to be significantly stiffer than the Kings were, albeit the pinks are on Bilstein B8s (feel overdamped) and the Kings were on Konis (felt like stock).

I have two sets of injectors - OEM 2005 GT injectors with metal pintle caps and 6 nozzle holes, and some other OEM 550 cc side feeds with plastic pintle caps and 4 nozzle holes. I don't know what car the other injectors actually came from but they should be either STI or Forester XT. Question: are the 2005 GT injectors better than the other injectors? I would assume they are due to the obvious differences but maybe the tuners using them both are seeing no major differences. The 2005 injectors are in the car, and possibly leak past the lower o-ring. The other injectors have just been tested and reconditioned and my plan was the put them in, until I pulled an injector and noticed the differences.

I can't rule out an issue with the pins in the MAF connector, but watching both MAF voltage, and IAT, I don't see any signs of a poor connection. I was yanking on the MAF harness, MAF itself, main harness connector etc. so short of using a pair of pliers to try and yank individual wires out, it seems solid. Rebuilt flowed injectors should be here early next week! wOOt

Hopefully get to this in the next few days. Thanks for the link to the harness. Today, 1A shot up to +7 and within minutes oscillates between +5 and +7. No change to 1B (-14s), and 1C has gone to -4.5(ish). Ambient temps are 10°C, so about 10°C warmer than last week.

Yes, even the newer spec bs with the 6 speed are becoming importable. Check out beforward Japan to see what kind of stuff can be imported easily to Canada. Also, importability goes by production month, not model year, so you can often get things earlier than you might think.

Upped the idle rpm by 200 and that has stopped the car from trying to stall. A/F learning 1A is now down at -10.5 when cold but after a long drive to pick up some injectors it came down to -3.5 (then back up again after cold start). B is at -14.8 and C is at -9.x. I checked some logs I posted in December, at similar temps as now, and everything looked good on the fuel side at the time so I'm not sure what has happened. I might update that thread with new logs after the weekend so people can see the change in just a couple thousand kms. It's pretty dramatic.

I'm 6'2" with a 30" inseam and short arms so I need the seat pretty far forward and upright to reach the pedals and fifth gear. I've got about 1/2" of head room in my 2005 without sunroof and in the 2007 with sunroof I need to lean the seat so far back I can barely reach the steering wheel. The closer to the wheel, the less head room there is which is the big problem. If my arms and legs were 2" longer I'd probably have no issue.

The rubber hose with the worm gear clamp also doesn't look factory to me. Lots going on there. Not sure what those braided lines are for or if somebody just sheathed wiring loom with that???

That DGM one has some bad rust looks like, and a high price for the kms. I'd love an 07 to 08 manual but they all have a sunroof and that doesn't work for me. My 07 is a 5eat and I still struggle to drive it with the head room, without needing to clutch and shift.

Swapped my MAF sensor with a new one from Amazon. Quick update: After replacing the intercooler my fuel trims actually got worse. A went from +6 to -8, B went from -8 to -15, C went from -2 to -8. Car is still stumbling coming to a stop and almost stalled several times. I also switched from Petro 94 (e10) back to Shell 91 (e0) to see what would happen (change was concurrent with intercooler replacement). I reflashed to Stage 0 and the rough idle and stumbling is 90% gone but I can tell it is still trying to stall occasionally. It doesn't seem temperature dependent. I'm sourcing a new intake pipe (not the turbo inlet) since it has been crushed at the flange on the turbo inlet and is probably leaking air. Next step is to try and pull some injectors at the scrap yard, get them reconditioned, and also pull my front O2 sensor to see if it is contaminated. The last one looked like silicone or coolant contamination, but was also 250,000 km old so lots could've happened between 2005 and 2021 when I replaced it.

According to the TSB, that is one of the symptoms. No communication can also be a wiring issue unrelated to the ecu, or a voltage or grounding issue. I wouldn't replace the ecu just because there is no comms through the port. In my situation, some tools will communicate, some won't, sometimes the Accessport will log, sometimes it loses comms when attempting to log.

I’ve run a separate boost/vacuum manifold. Worked perfectly fine. Looked a little janky as I didn’t have a place to mount it but it was a 4” long block of 1/2”x1/2” aluminum, one zip tie and it wasn’t going anywhere. I used a pressure rated manifold from Princess Auto, my biggest issue was finding the right sized npt hose barbs for everything I wanted to run off it (1/4” all the way up to 9/16”). I was only running 8-psi on that turbo but nothing ever blew off and I didn’t need hose clamps or zip ties. This was not on a Legacy, just FYI. This one looks exactly like the one I had (same color even): https://www.amazon.ca/Uxcell-a11120200ux0438-Pneumatic-Manifold-Splitter/dp/B00843USU2/ref=asc_df_B00843USU2/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=337093155729&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12211606325596346814&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001327&hvtargid=pla-569926730341&psc=1

The red and black may match up, but there are often multiple red and black wires on the back of the stereo, and orange is not going to be what you need it to be. Colors are not consistent between different manufacturers products (even power and grounds often change color depending on application - lots of power/ground wires in the body are blue, green or purple, with different color tracers). You need to look in the FSM to figure out what wires go where if you are trying to tap into things behind the stereo instead of behind the fuse panel. EDIT: according to the 2008 FSM, you will probably find switched power is violet (satellite) or yellow/red (stereo), black is ground and constant power to the 12V DC plug is yellow/green. I don't know if the colors are consistent from year to year. You need to look in the FSM for your year and figure that out. EDIT2: I checked the 2005 FSM and switched power is yellow/red on connector i26. I don't know where to find a 2006 FSM so you need to do some more digging or pull the stereo out and see if the colors match the other years.

Mine losses comms frequently when trying to log. I haven’t investigated it yet but my ecu was replaced under warranty and since then connecting scan tools has been hit and miss. The AP connects reliably for live data though. Other than people suggesting there is an issue with the obd2 port (bent pins? But mine aren’t bent) I haven’t seen much else.

There is a very old tsb for intermittent communications issues that give similar issues. It’s possible your ecu was never replaced and you are just now having the issue. It’s also possible you accidentally cut a wire when you reinstalled the IM or one of the grounds is not good enough even though you checked it. Did you check your battery voltage or try putting on a jump pack or charger?

What are those wires being used for? Are they just powering the lights on the gauges (or a Defi-link)? If it's just the lights or a Defi-link, then you can tap into a switched source with orange (interior lights or something similar that can be turned on when the key is at ACC, but not when the key is off), a constant 12V source for red, and a ground for black. I would assume there is a relay inside the gauge pack, which is why there is a signal wire. You can literally connect red and black to the battery but I wouldn't do that unless there is an easy to access fuse in the gauge pack. I wouldn't pull power from an existing circuit like the 12V DC plug in without understanding how much current those gauges are going to pull. You could add a fuse on the power side to protect the gauges if the fuse is hard to get to, or there isn't one. The wiring diagrams in the FSM, I think, tell you what circuits are powered under what conditions, but you can also probe the fuse holder to figure it out. The orange wire will probably be connected behind the interior fuse panel/above the foot tray panel under the steering column where wires are somewhat accessible (it's hard to see and work under there at times). If it's stand-alone sensors and gauges then you probably have more work ahead of you but we can't help with that unless we know what you are dealing with.

I generally need to use the max defrost when I have the whole family in the car and it's below -15°C. It gets significantly worse below -20°C and I need to keep max defrost on the whole time, instead of cycling it on and off. Cabin air filter gets changed every September-ish after we are done driving gravel roads so it's pretty clean all winter. I have been using Wix filters which could be thicker than others. Both cars (2005 and 2007) have the same issue at the same temperatures so I don't think it's a mechanical issue. I should note that I thought my front windshield heater wasn't working due to having a crack running through the elements but I think it is a switch issue as I was able to turn it on today.