KJS2023

Originally I bought a box so I could do my doors and trunk a bit but there was just so much in the box I figured might as well it’s not like I’m going to want to take everything apart again if I felt it needed more. I’ve never worked with mlv but I have with dynomat. I’ll be pushing 1000watts rms to my sub and would prefer it be quieter to the outside world while I enjoy my music. Don’t get be wrong I know it won’t be perfect but in the end each part helps a bit. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

That pedal commander sounds like it could be fun. The Subaru one didn’t have many reviews on Amazon some say it’s amazing some say it trips the CEL. I went digging to other models to see if I could read more reviews a few people stated it auto accelerated so they had to turn the car off. That is part seems way too dangerous... imagine being in a drive through you pull up to the speaker box and ur car floors it into the car ahead of you. Maybe they got the wrong version for their car, or they installed it in a spot where they would kick it who knows. I’d love to see this actually work for us but with those reviews I don’t wanna see someone crash because of it. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

This is preventative I am installing 2 amps w a lot of watts and a big capacitor. In any event having the car run as efficient as possible is never a bad idea. With that said I already own everything I need to do the job. I also enjoy doing projects on my car even if gains are small or non existent. In the future I’ll be getting a high amp alternator so might as well get the ball rolling with what I have at home. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Ok heres some pics. I did order my amps through crutchfield so i picked up 2 of these metal straps https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120BKSTRAP/Universal-Back-Strap.html then I used the mounting hardware for my infinity kappa tweeters and the screws and metal locks that were left over from the speakers. Bent the straps then cut the excess. I didn't use the wire adapters instead I ran my own wire to the crossover in my case.

The plug looked just like the ones for your speakers so you can buy the Meta harness, as far as mounting Crutchfield even sells a thin piece of metal with holes in it. Bend it cut it and your good. When picking out the tweeters make sure to stay with silk dome which is the same as your 6x9. Try and get an rms lvl similar or a little under as well. You don’t want to have to crank your volume to hear them and then have your speakers be too loud. I can go to my comp to upload some pics to help ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Component sets would of been the best option but with what you have I would buy some tweeters for left and right. Just make sure they have filters on them or solder in some. The loss of wattage is worth it for clearer highs. I kinda thought the center channel would mess with the soundstage too much. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

I want to do the big 3 in my car. I already ran a 0 awg from the neg on the battery to chassis, then ended up running 2 more 0 awg from 2 spots on the engine one where we are supposed to ground and the other from what appears to be a mount on the intake side that isnt in use. My issue is with the alternator run. When you pop the cap off its easy enough to unscrew the bolt but once you put the ring terminal with your 0 awg wire not only can the cap not close but theres then a big hot copper connector sticking out. I feel even with heat shrink covering most of it there will still be some copper out in the open. Then theres the issue of shaving off some plastic from the cap on the alternator so it might be able to close. Whoever has done this could you please give me your words of wisdom and a pic or 2. Ive looked around the forum and yes theres talk about the big 3 but no one has really addressed the issues with the alternator portion.

dynomated my trunk today... still have some left over plan to finish the spare area and the trunk lid another day. Also ran my ground for the capacitor theres a threaded spot on the left and right after the struts near the seats that worked out great. Ive decided to leave the weathertech mat in the trunk and installing everything over it.

Nice I bet your midrange is nicer with the 6x9’s. It’s such a pain to get in to the door with ur arm let alone pieces of dynomat. Good job though ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Went to do the big 3 today.... Ended up grounding the engine in 2 spots, did the extra ground for the battery. The alternator is my issue if I use the copper ring terminals the cap will not close then I have a hot unprotected connection. Any one have some words of wisdom for me on this. I also installed KnuKonceptz battery terminals. These are awesome they have sold separately a stock terminal on the side and 3 other connections for 8,4,0 gauge wire. Ended up taking the riser off my battery lowering it to help with the new wire config. The battery tie down bolts then became an issue they aren't threaded all the way so I grabbed an old guitar cord with metal connectors harvested those to add a spacer to the bolt ended it up looking nice and fits snug now. Found some left over split loom from an old project thought I would toss it in for the hell of it.

Well crap guess I’ll see if they will let me return the fronts then sadly also got the pitch stop mount cuz it also said for our car but when I went to put it in there wasn’t a spot for it. Learning some of these sites aren’t as accurate as you would want them to be. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

I don’t see model #s on the site. I found 2. They say 2010+ legacy bm/br ones $2,700 the others $4,700 ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Well your making me want them more now. Do you happen to know which AirREX I should be looking for they have 2 for the legacy outback none listed specifically for our car ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

I purchased the front and back endlinks for $200 figured the savings would be worth it in the end. Sticking stock in front for now. Prob add the front when I do the suspension. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

You did an amazing job on your car man. I especially love what you did with your engine bay. I actually bought the same cover I plan to see if I can retro fit it on mine. I found a few cans of the subi world rally blue left over and a blank canvas of an engine bay to work with. Question on your air ride do you have to come to a stop to change height and how long does it take. I would love to get one that can have 3 settings.... stock higher, sport hight, and slammed. Follow up question is how would u rate the handling compared to using coil overs w dampening controls. Over all I need stability in the car I have a heavy foot and love to race around. With that said it would be awesome to click a button and just drop it right to the ground. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

these are the endlinks i got from kartboy hopping they work out well. I read a lot on the topic and found a bunch of people on here use them. Edit: They sent me the wrong ones I did find them under the right section on the site but I guess a link was wrong. karboy was great though they accepted my return without issue and paid for the return ship. I did send them some pics of the front and rear endlinks on my car. They are trying to find a 2016 by them to look at too.

Did the intake for the little extra acceleration plus it puts a smile on my face when I’m flying down the highway. The red top was best option at the time my battery died and I had to go to work. Most likely I will go deep cycle with extra posts but prob not for some time unless I see issues. I don’t foresee myself running the system too much w the car off..... those days are over. I already got the endlinks anyways so they are going in with the bar. Thanks for the feedback w everything btw. For the record once the system is done I’m totally going to rock some 90’s tunes for the drive. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Lol right yeah it’s actually 2 6x9 speakers and 2 6.5 speakers I had the extra set and was board so I used my dremel to make the holes and used the same marine grade blue leather I used for the sub box which is a 12” to make the rear deck. You already know that it was a damn long time ago w the aftermarket cd changer in the trunk. Car clubs, meets, car shows was an awesome time back then. The stereo was able to hit 121db with clarity. I’ll say this I’ll never put that many extra speakers in a car again tuning was a nightmare. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

today I finished my wire harness, installed the line level converter, and got the led strips in the front going.

thought id share a few pics from the 96 Maxima had that car painted subaru world rally blue. Sadly the pics from the finished project are long lost i did a tan to black conversion in that car too.

If u plan to dynomat everything u can it will add some weight it was a 96 maxima and I put on almost every bolt on you could imagine so I made up for the weight. The doors definitely were a heavier close. The trunk when popped wouldn’t pop more then 1/2 inch w the weight. For this car I’m using their lighter series which I’m sure would do a little less for dampening the sound but our cars are heavy boats as it is. I’m not as concerned w adding weight my system will add more to the car then the dynomat. If you plan to do your speakers might as well add em to the doors. Ripping the carpet up is a big task. I only did it on the 96 cuz I replaced the carpet too. Another option is truck bed liner spray for under the carpet it’s much lighter weight I didn’t go that route afraid of over spray on screw holes and components. Always remember to pull the battery if your going to disconnect the airbag systems. If you haven’t worked with it b4 ensure you have some scrap cardboard to use as a cutting board for your pieces. When possible where gloves it can really cut up your hands. The lighter stuff I didn’t see as much of an issue with this as their original design. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

I just did the speakers the other day so I haven’t tried them out yet. Everything’s going to be amped so I’ll let you know. In my last 2 cars I used dynomat. When you do just the doors it is decent. One of my cars I ripped the carpet up basically put dynomat across the floor doors trunk and that made a big diff in road noise. No matter what you do there will still be noise from the glass. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Question for u about the kappa crossovers. Did u set them on +2 or 0 . I’m working on my install I set mine on 0 but Installed the fronts under each panel by your feet so I can change it if needed. I’m just thinking once it’s all together I wanted to tune it w/o the gain. Wondering your thoughts now that you have run them for a few years. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...