KJS2023

Yeah that will be damn loud especially in the ported box. I designed a sealed enclosure for mine but my system is more about attenuation and accurate soundstage then raw power. I hope you plan to buy a capacitor to go with your setup deff seeing some lights dimming in your future with out it. Some extra grounds in the engine would prob help too. I’m interested to see the decibels you can hit with it once you break em in. Still breaking in my system so I have to idea how loud I can get. Hit 110db during one of my tunes so far. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Can’t wait to see the box u design for all of this ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Sounds like it’s gonna bump ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

I sell phones for a living and I do get the question asked about connectivity issues with android auto and CarPlay. It seems as updates come out for your phone android or Apple there can be incompatibilities with the software requiring more updates. In general I prob see more people complaining about androids then Apple. I’ve tried the car play w my iPhone and it worked ok on my car w iOS 13.1 I think it was a bit ago. I suppose I could try my OnePlus7pro with it to see how it is. I’m not a big fan of Any of em I find controlling the phone through the head unit is just slower then I like compared to just using your phone. Another argument would be how quick Apple is to updating there products compared to android with lots of manufactures for there devices. The only exception would be the Pixel, OnePlus which gets the updates right away being a true droid experience without bloatware. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

I went with this one it has Front Rear and Sub out that it converts on its own instead of using rca y cables. It also has auto on as I said before as well as ability to send REM out even without rem in. This was key for me in my setup as my capacitor needs a REM. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C723VT4/?coliid=I1M0VT7KS7FRE6&colid=3EUJA12TS0SYU&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it If anything pick out your subs first making it easy to choose an amp that works well with it. What subs have you considered? Where are you mounting the LOC? you will most likely have to mess with the gain control during tuning so hiding it behind the headunit might not be the best option. I have mine in my arm rest which made it real easy to run the rca back under the carpet.

Already did that but it’s easy on i95 ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

I’m from Branford ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Yeah I’m definitely enjoying the clear roads during all of this. Not sure if I’m driving harder then normal though. I’ve got that lead foot issue. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Does your LOC have auto signal on? I choose that route with mine as well as my amps. Funny thing I notice with this setup sound doesn’t kick on for a few sec or so. There’s also a bit of a pop when first turning on the car so I ensure my volume is turned way down b4 I shut off the car. Still in the tuning stage so who knows once I find the sweet spot between my converter gain, amps, and head unit it might go away. So far with mine I have it set to give 86db at 41 volume on the stock head unit. When I had it set at 30 for volume I had a lot of extra noise. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

When I did the install on my intake I realized the heat shield wouldnt be as secure as I would of liked. It would move slightly which would rub against the front air dam. Found an angle bracket in the basement yesterday so a quick drilling and a random bolt nice and secure. its a 4" angle bracket if anyone has the same intake.

i just dug this up its what crutchfield sends to you if you plan to not buy a harness. theres just so many colors which is why it wasnt enough for me and why i got the adapter to make it easy. Then when done I just unplugged it and kept it aside glad I was able to use it again to help someone else.

your in luck cuz I just did this a few weeks ago. It was tough to figure out so i purchased a harness from a local shop so it would be easy to figure out what is what so heres a pic of the harness and ill tell u the colors on it to what they are then you just follow the pins to see what stock is. purple right rear + purple w stripe right rear - Green Left Rear + Green w stripe Left Rear - Gray Right Front + Gray w stripe Right Front - White Left Front + White Left Front -

Yeah I saw yours and checked them out but even with that it wouldn’t be bad to add the extra wire anyways can’t hurt ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

I do have a question for you then have you done the big 3? I still need to run the wire from the alternator and don’t want to hack the plastic clip. Love to see some pics of it installed ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

That actually would of been nice still had to make the holes in the back the piece doesn’t line up with anything to clip too ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

ok so this is just for proof that it works. I do plan on finding something like hood pins for easy removal. I used a piece of metal left over from my garage door install. Found some extra bolts and nuts testing different lengths till I found something that will work. I used some touch up paint on the tips of the bolts to find where they would line up once i placed the cover. After drilling during install I noticed the 2 parts that are supposed to clip were in the way so i snipped em off. Re-installed with extra washers and nuts all around. Its solid even when engine running. Yes one of the bolts is different I had a lot of 1/4 in bolts and nuts to work with but the front right bolt is actually threading into the spot where the old cover screwed in and well that black bolt was the only one I had on hand long enough to work for now.

Today’s the day I try and fit the 3.6 engine cover in my 2.5 It’s not going to be perfect but I feel I can make it fit. A few bolts w painted tips to see where it lines but and I got 3 spots basically ready. 2 front and 1 back right. The left side doesn’t have any spots to mount so I’m going to the basement to work with some scrap metal I have to see what I come up with. I’m not doing this to pretend it’s a 3.6 I’m doing it cuz the stock cover is crap and I want my engine bay to look nicer then it does now. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Ohh so ur saying when it goes all the way up it goes back down half way? If that’s the case U might be right. I’d try re sitting the seal in the channel. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

If it’s going down half way without being rigid it might be your switch on the ps ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Just got my car back from Excelerate Performance. They installed my Rear Sway bar, slotted rotors, ceramic brakes, fog lights, JDM Grill. I noticed some alternator noise from my system today gonna dig through the basement for a ground loop isolator to hopefully fix the issue. Then its tune and next nice day a good wash n wax.

Yeah I checked those out their boxes look really clean. I was hopping they would fit in the spare compartment if not I’ll just have to redesign the box when I get em ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Finally got the system installed. I ran out of carpet b4 I could make the front piece that hides the gap so thats for the future. Did a quick tune and sounds great. Ill prob spend a few hours tuning it another day. Im glad I used as much dynomat as I did but now I know I definitely have to do the trunk lid as well. Im running the Sub at 2 ohms and boy does it bump. Once I'm happy with the tune Ill get a DB level for the system.

Finished the sub box today, and the sides for it as well. Now I just need to find the right angle i want for the sides get em mounted and it will be time to wire it all up. Sucks its going to rain tomorrow.

When u get ur rockfords think about choosing component sets. You will have to run the wire down from the tweeter which is real easy, and fab a mount which isn’t that hard. The worst part will be cutting the line going into the head unit to use that to go to the crossover cuz it’s from the door and tweeter which is why u use a new wire for tweeter. Then just hide the crossover under the dash and run a wire back to the head unit. Doing the install this way ensure the crossover does it’s job. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come...

Finished sanding and gluing the sub box today. Next will be building the sides for the amps and then carpet. Getting closer to install each day. Wish this rain would stop really slowing down progress. I forgot to say those wooden supports I put in are also calculated into the total volume of the box ending with 0.6 cubic feet of air being the perfect amount for the infinity kappa 10".