ndavies

FYI: The stock dash speakers are 3.5 inch 2 ways with a high pass filter right on the speaker.

Here is a quick look at how I did the dash speaker replace with the tweeter from the kappa component system. The mount bracket is just a piece of pipe hanger I made some bends in.

The dash speakers are 3 1/2 inch. The tweeters I put in are 1 1/2, I had to make some brackets to hold them in place. 4 inch would probably not drop in. I'll pop the grills off and take some pictures and measurements when I get home tonight. Any idea would you need for the cutout and mounting depth for the tweeters you are looking to put in? You could probably get them to fit if you want to cut out and tap new mounting holes. Although You might have to worry about mounting depth too, if it's something like this you had in mind. (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/PRO+Series/TS-B400PRO) I had to drop the ones i put in about an inch lower then the facotry speakers to get the grill back in place. So for something that needs 2 1/2 + inches of mounting depth might cause you some problems. I'm sure it could be done with some effort, but I might try something 3 1/2 or smaller instead, less mounting depth and would probably just drop right in.

Here are some pictures of the rear speakers as well as the comparison to the new speakers. Yes the stock speakers are paper and they are terrible. Also the magnets are laughable. The sound quality is like night and day already and I haven't had time to get to the amp and sub yet.

I replaced the speakers with Infinity Kappa 609CS upfront and Infinity Kappa 629I in the rear doors. These are power hungry speakers, I am also planning on making a fiberglass box for a Kappa 100.9W 10 inch sub. And adding a Alpine PDR-75V 5 channel amp to power everything properly. All that being said the factory unit actually supplies an alright amount of power to the speakers. The mids and highs are fantastic actually. There is just not quite enough power there to get the woofer really going. You are right about wanting more efficient speakers. Infinity speakers even run at 2 ohm instead of 4 ohm. (there is a big debate here I know, but from my experience they do make more sound from stock head units) If you stuck to the reference or even new primus series of the infinity speakers i think they would perform better with the stock power. I had the reference speakers in my old car run off the stock head unit and they probably had more bass response at the lower power then the Kappas I just put in but it's hard to tell for sure cause i have still breaking in the Kappas. One option that works well is a small amp like the Alpine KTP-445U. It provides 45x4 rms and is super easy to install. Since the Legacy has 30 amp fuse for the stereo so it can actually run off the same power circuit which means no need to run a power wire to the battery. And it takes speaker level inputs. Here's a thread from an outback forum with some info on that http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/61-general-discussions/233930-alpine-ktp-445u-powerpack-amp-installation-2015-outback.html It seems to fit nicely away behind the head unit. My suggestion is to start with the speakers. Those have to go, the stock ones are terrible you'll probably laugh when you take them out. Then if you want more power take a look at the alpine ktp-445u if you have no plans of adding a sub later. I'm glad this was helpful for someone!

I got around to replacing the speakers in my 2.5i Premium this weekend. I put together a quick how to with some pictures. Hopefully this will help those of you wanting to replace the speakers. Here is a link to the pdf that is much easier to follow and has some detailed pictures (it was too big to attach to this post) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6wgYxg53E4ILUk1NG42SDJid3M/view?usp=sharing If anyone has any questions just ask, I'll see if I can point you in the right direction! ---------------------------------------------------------- 2015 Subaru Legacy Door Panel Removal and Component Speaker Install Required Tools: 1. Panel Removal Tools (anything non-marking you can pry with HDE 12 Pcs No Scratch) 2. Phillips Screw Driver (You will need a really short one for the dash speakers) Optional Tools (These will make it easier, some are required for the component install) 1. Metra Speaker Brackets (really recommended, but if you feel like saving a few bucks you could cut the stock speakers out of the brackets or make your one out of mdf. ) a. Front - Metra 82-8147 b. Rear - Metra 82-8148 2. Metra Speaker Wire Adapters a. Front, Dash, and Rear are all the same Metra 72-8104 b. If install 2 or 3 way speakers in all locations I’d get them. I just used them in the back because You’ll need to run new wire from the dash down to the door for the tweeter of the component system. 3. Velco (to hold the crossovers in place) (required for component install) 4. Tweeter mounting brackets (required for component install) 5. Extra Speaker wire - 18 awg is cheap, available, and easy to work with. Anything thicker and getting to be hard to rout through to the door. (required for component install) Wiring Diagram information: (for those not using speaker wire adapters) Left Front Speaker (Dash and Door same) - Purple(+) / White (-) Right Front Speaker (Dash and Door same) - Blue(+) / Pink (-) Left Rear Speaker - Orange (+) / Red (-) Right Rear Speaker - White (+) / Yellow (-) Step 1. Note :All the door panels come off the basically the same. I’ll show the driver’s door cause it has the extra wiring harnesses. Locate two screws found under flip up covers. (these covers are connected to the door panel so don’t pry too hard to lift them.) There is one in the door handle. And the other is armrest. Step 2 Pry around the outside of the door panel. It will pop loose. Step 3 Disconnect all wiring harnesses and the door handle from the door. My premium had 1 harness for the puddle light, 1 for the light in the armrest, and 3 for the controls. Just make sure you unplug everything before you pull the door panel away. Note: On the driver door the largest connector’s release pin is on the back. Step 4 Disconnect and unscrew speakers. After they are unscrewed they will need a little pry to get them to pop of the door. Thankfully Subaru screwed the speakers in rather than riveting them. Note: Although the cutout would fit a 6x9 speaker it would have to be really shallow to clear the track for the window. See pictures. Step 5 (Optional) Sound deadening application. Now is the time to apply any sound deadening material is used a generic 80mil dynamat alternative. The doors already had better insulation than I have seen before so I just put some on the inside of the door panel. Step 6 Dash speaker removal The covers just pry off. I started in the front on both sides and worked my way around. Step 7 Tweeter Install This step is going to be different for everyone depending on what speakers you use. I used Infinity Kappas and I had to make a small metal bracket out of a pipe hanger. However you mount them just make sure they don’t stick out farther then the stock speakers. Step 8 (Component Systems only) 1. Running the new wire for the component system. a. I used the factory connector in the door panel for the input to my crossover and ran a new wire from the dash speaker location down to the door. And then a short easy run of new wire from the crossover in the door to the door speaker. b. This was the hard part. You’ll need lots of patience to rout the wire down from the dash then out the factory opening, through the rubber tubing over to the door. I ended up cutting a small hole in the middle of the rubber tubing to help pull the wire through. 2. Find a place for the crossover. I just put some industrial strength velco on mine and stuck it to inside of the door panel.