Pleides

Got a habit of leaning on the shifter a little, hmmm? I kid, it's got almost 300K on it now. Something's gonna give. Report back when ya got the thing in, I guess!

Hey Max, did you manage to get it installed and/or weigh it yet?

Did you have issues with shifting smoothly, engaging from a stop smoothly, etc with your car before your driveshaft failed in the fashion it did? I've thought that my driveshaft has been making more noise than it should be for awhile, and it sometimes kicks you rear a little when you get back on the throttle after a gear change.

If you listen to dyno pulls of EJ255/257 cars, there is a bit more of a ticking/tapping noise around 4000 RPM that you can hear from behind the car. It may be normal. These cars are noisy in general. How many miles are on the car? It could need a valve adjustment or something.

Responding WAY after I received the parts, but I can confirm that the seller sent me the brake lines in a timely manner and were as advertised, unopened! New lines are working great. Thanks!

This will not fit on any bumper native to the USDM market.

My wagon has a 3/8 inch spacer and a pretty even rake. 1/4” would probably get you by better though. Little too much wheel gap with the 3/8” IMO.

I wanna say the immobilizer is in the fuse box. Just unplug it and plug it back in. When Wilsonville Subaru did the airbag recall on my car and disconnected the battery for an hour or two to do it, both my key fobs stopped connecting to the car. I brought it back and they reset the immobilizer, which solved everything. Thinking it could be something for you to look into.

Have you tried reconnecting the immobilizer? These cars seem to have some sensitivities regarding those when the battery is removed from the car or is left to go flat. A lot of modern cars will sound the alarm if you jump them.

Currently have H&R springs and would like to go lower with the Swifts. Let me know if you have a set you're not using anymore. I'd be willing to trade as well. My springs have 4K miles on them. Edit: I'd also throw in my saggy butt spacers, which are 3/8".

I took the trim apart on my car to see if this was doable and I figured it would be easiest to just route something like this through the shifter trim. The challenge would be in not pinching the shit out of the cable and causing connectivity issues. Then you can drill holes in the center console near the cigarette lighter and route the cables from space shared by the parking brake. I believe you'd have fitment issues of the USDM cupholder space if you routed a cable underneath them. I'd think it would be much easier to route something through the factory front cigarette lighter instead, but up to you ultimately.

The Q300 definitely colors the sound quite a bit. Look up Krispy’s Legacy wagon on YouTube and see if you can find sound clips of it. It’s burbley and an acquired taste IMO. If you like the sound of the car without mufflers then the Magnaflow is a good bet.

Might be a stretch, but how are your diff and transmission fluids? I rode in a friend's 2008 OBXT with a 5EAT and it seemed to have a weird clunk like you're describing. The car had a new motor and all the fluids had been changed and it seemed kinda permanent. It doesn't seem tied to your note about being put up on a lift though. Have you tried to drive the car while your brother sits underneath the car as the thing is up on a lift? What about taking a stethoscope to the car until you find it?

The Prodrive mufflers are often sought after but are quite rare. They're a good match. After hearing an identical car to mine with just cats, I honestly don't mind how these cars sound without mufflers. They're loud, of course, but it's good to start with what you don't like about the sound of the car without mufflers before you explore muffler options IMO. Do you have/want a resonator?

Just chiming in here: VF46 is a direct swap and you DO NEED the boost restrictor pill. My car went without it for awhile but making boost was difficult. My tuner found out for me and installed it and went on his merry way.

I have a feeling the buyer bought it after finding it on Autotempest or the like, but I could be wrong.

Oh dang, OK, well I'm not an expert but I'd say that you're gonna want a machine shop to look at your engine and maybe spend a penny with them. Your heads may not have appreciated the damage done here. Good luck on that third banjo bolt. Just to confirm, you removed the other two from the top of the engine, right? One right by the driver's side oil control valve and the second by the turbo?

Can you drop the pan and check everything in there again? Any chance there's shit in the pickup tube as well? That's something I would have replaced in its entirety after rod bearing failure, although it sounds like you've done a pretty thorough job. Typically, issues with AVCS manifest themselves before about 3000 RPM when the turbo kicks in as that's when AVCS is active. I'm thinking it's also possible that your new OCVs aren't happy because of debris in them if the engine wasn't cleaned out. Sometimes the banjo bolt filters don't get removed properly (you said you removed them, but did they fall back into the bolt holes?) and get caught in the intake sprocket and various oil passages. Ninja edit: I just saw your post from two minutes before me. That's probably your issue. Good luck!

Every bushing relevant to my rear diff has been replaced and I still get some clunk. Something tells me that the OEM DMF would have perfected quite a lot of it. For the record I would NOT recommend poly bushings for the rear diff. All but the rear diff support bushing on my car has been replaced with poly and the NVH difference is pretty annoying. The support I had Surgeline replace with OEM. I wish I had just used OEM for everything because the whine from the diff is, IMO, not characteristic of this car and my car is pretty much as loud as a WRX on the inside now. Maybe it wouldn’t bother you, but it’s something to consider.

If I recall, these are codes for the AVCS system, typically the oil control valves are gunked up with bearing or turbocharger material. Replace them completely. They're never any good after a turbo blows up.

I've always had a little more driveline shock than I think is normal, but have never been able to figure out exactly what. I have poly differential mount bushings for the rear and I still get that little jerkyness when I go into the next gear up and try to accelerate. Many threads recently have been asking questions about driveshafts and something tells me that my high-mileage car is ready for one. Guess others can chime in.

Haha, I think that car was in exemplary shape compared to some of the others here (including mine), but yes, one did successfully sell for $12k! If my car had perfect bodywork with it's 214K, I'd probably fetch 8K at most, and I wouldn't pay that much for almost any car with 200K miles. His was a car serviced by the dealership it was purchased from for its whole life and owned by various employees at the dealership throughout its life. Very stellar example. I don't see our cars really dropping in value much, but I don't think they're gonna reach E46 M3 status, or the like, and I've seen VERY few examples even close to the mileage and condition his was in.

Just got a text from my friend telling me he sold the car for 12K today. Seller flew in from Boise, Idaho to buy it. Hope we see it on here!

Anybody installed it? Might be something I need to replace soon.

They’re likely both fine. If one requires modification of the stock hood scoop then that’ll probably be better for air over the intercooler.