Pleides

You absolutely need a boost pill. Mine went on the dyno and refused to make proper boost until the tuner found my car had no boost restrictor pill. Otherwise it's an easy swap.

Looking at this thread on my phone which is a much better display than my PC: your exhaust is not all rusty like I thought. I also noticed you’re in California. I’m sure there are a myriad of shops that would be comfortable working on that and you could have something done for less than the cost of an OEM catback.

Grind the parts you need to weld together down a little then... hope for the best. Wishing you the best of luck from the west coast where my car has never seen road salt. Might just be more cost-effective (if you plan to keep the car) to get an aftermarket or OEM catback. Forum users here might have an OEM catback for you to use that'll be rust-free.

I’ll be right there behind ya. 214K on mine. Coming for you, Max!

Good luck!

My car was a major PITA to start when the MAF went bad and the tune couldn't account for whatever weird data it was being sent from the MAF. Possible it's your issue. Corroded grounds could definitely hinder starting though. We don't know how old your fuel actually is, how long it was stored at the station, etc, so I'd still recommend putting some good gas in there and siphoning some old stuff out.

What engine component had let go, do you know. Your symptoms sound identical to mine. First couple random stalls were spaced out 6 months apart, now they’ve happened four times in the last month.

I think it's because of the hill the car is parked on slightly skewing it. Here's level ground the next couple days after the springs had settled.

Sounds good, thanks for the reply.

Nice! Can you explain how your car stalled at stops? My car quietly turns off every so often and I'm worried it's engine time. I've got a beater to save some money for a shortblock, but ya know these cars... always demanding more $$$

I wish I had used a 1/4" spacer on the wagon as the rear often sits just a smidge too high. I think they'd look less saggy on the sedan. I used larger studs on my spacer. I'd just use the larger studs to be safe on any spacer. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/picture-request-legacy-lowered-h-r-springs-129358.html Here's a thread about the H&R springs.

How much vibration should you be able to feel in the armrest if you lay your elbow on it? Mine isn’t awful, but you can definitely feel some sort of rotational vibration under it.

My H&Rs have a saggy butt spacer and mine is 3/8" inch. Here's a pic or two.

Thanks for posting this. My manual transmission has always been ridiculously jerky and, although I’m only 21 and have been driving manuals for a fraction of the time many of you have, I can pretty consistently change gear in my Honda or any car at work without the jerkyness I associate with my car. Guessing this will have to be replaced soon enough as well. Gah, to have a bunch of money lying around.

Sorry to bump this thread, but I was able to gauge just how high the demand is for the cars. I posted mine for sale yesterday as I have been getting tired of the PTSD of wondering when my 214K engine with no valve clearance will blow up. I made a pretty thorough ad with nice pictures and within one hour of posting the car I had a guy test-driving it. Within 5 I had to take the ad down because I quite literally could not respond to enough of the replies over email and text. I was asking $7000 for my car, same spec as the car in the Jalopnik article, just with double the mileage and tons of modifications. I have opted to keep the car as I now realize that A. I would never be able to find one in the shape mine is in ever again if I regret selling it and B, she’s mine. People will pay for these things man. Keep yours in good shape and enjoy driving it if you’ve got one!

Agreed on replacing the hardness. Airbags can kill you if they randomly detonate, or kill you if they don't when/if you get in an accident.

So, forgive me as I haven't been able to piece together what all has happened here: Did you buy the STi steering rack and put in that joint and solve your problem?

That grille is different than the one in the OP. One in the OP is a JDM Spec B grille and won't fit a USDM bumper.

Might also be worth checking if your sway bar brackets are in good shape.

OK, so I was just pulling into work this morning and notice this exact feeling you're describing. I don't know what it is, but it's never bothered me and it's definitely been there forever. My car has 214K and runs pretty OK given the mileage. The entire suspension has been replaced and is fine. Something tells me it's a normal noise our cars make when you're in low speed. Maybe the AVCS system, maybe the brake system, but I'm not sure. I've replaced nearly everything in this car and that has never gone away. Happens at maybe 5 MPH.

Did you tune the car after doing the inlet? The car will run in a "default" mode until the tune is corrected after installing a different turbo inlet than was in the car previously.

I believe there is only one option from H&R for our cars, which is #54425. They sag a little with the wagon. I would probably just throw in the 3/8" saggy butt spacers on my car for free since the wagon Swifts seem to correct the sag pretty nicely.

Just chiming in here: I had been complaining about a stutter to my mechanic for a year or more until I, per the recommendation of members here, replaced both AVCS oil control valves. Stutter went away completely for about two days then came back as they got clogged up again. My prior commute to work was three miles and the car didn’t even fully get up to temperature during the drive, which I think made it worse. I’ve since run some Liqui Moly engine flush through the oil and the OCVs are clean again, thus the car drives great until whatever sludge in the oil gunks them up again. I’d notice a decent improvement every time I had an oil change, too, which has led me to change the oil every 1-2K. May not be the source of your problems, but the car will behave so erratically (mine had no CELs either) and it can be hard to trace when these things fail.

Hmm, I've got all the hardened shift and engine-related things. Mine just kind of takes a little extra time to get back on the throttle after you've pressed it, and then feels like the trans kicks you in the butt. Little strange. I may need to drive a more modern STi or something to feel if that's "normal." But almost every other manual car I've driven feels less clunky.