Pleides

I'm 21 and have owned the car since I was 19. I'm still on my mother's insurance (I should probably fix that, but might just wait until I'm a little older ) and my rates just went down radically because of COVID, so my older insurance rates will be my reference. I'm in Portland, OR (high insurance rates are the norm and are getting worse as more people decide to move here from California), have never had a speeding ticket or accident, my mother has a mostly clean driving record and is the "primary driver" of my car, and I have a 4.0 GPA as a full-time student (and employee, if that matters). I'm single. I have good credit, but I don't believe that's factored into my particular equation. The insurance monthly rate I paid in May was for $115. When I bought the car Christmas-ish of 2018, the monthly rate I paid around then was $135. I'd really not advise a turbocharged Subaru as a first car. The LGT gets Legacy insurance rates, so it's not going to wipe your bank account there, but they're fairly needy cars and you're gonna be broke trying to maintain one, let alone one that may have hit a few patches of salt in its 15 years. I'd recommend you buy what your car-clueless friends have and stick to the tried and true Accord/Civic and Camry/Corolla.

I'm not super familiar with the geography of that particular part of California, but I've heard good things about LIC Motorsports. It was recommended to me as an emergency shop to visit should I break down when I was planning a drive to Los Angeles Have you checked your oil for milkshaky-ness? And your actual heads to see if they're dry?

The owner of this car is a friend of mine! His name is Zack, and the car has been looked after by Carr Subaru forever. The previous owner was a service advisor there. Here's a pic of our cars together back when my car (in the back, his in front) was a pile of garbage I was still working on - around April 2019 iirc. I have his car on VINwiki but I'm not sure if he wants me to share the VIN here. Our cars are both 1/99 in the same spec (ATL blue with beige Limited trim and 5-speed). I will say since I don't think he'll see it here: he drives the car pretty hard. The car is stock on the tuning and engine side, but I'm sure the shocks will be gone shortly with the Swifts dropping the car as low as it is. The front control arm bushings probably aren't in great shape and the ball joints won't last long being that low. I saw his car at the gas station and we pulled over and chatted for a bit. His tires only had 8K on them but had some decent wear, I presume because the car can't really be aligned properly without some modifications to correct camber. The car's exhaust mods sound great, but are loud. The paint on his car is immaculate. The wheels are brand-new from when he bought the car and put them on there. Also LOL at the people in Jalopnik's comments thinking they were super sleuths because they saw a Cobb sticker and therefor the car couldn't be stock - the car has a Cobb shift knob y'all! Car is also on its original clutch, so it still has a dual mass flywheel, for those who care. All in all, this is definitely the best example for sale in the country, but it's expensive. The car has been an Oregon car its whole life, so I'd buy it. Also, his Instagram is @lgtwago, if you want more pics of the car. Y'all can ask me whatever you want about the car. I can answer to the best of my ability. Also, I just texted him, telling him to put it on BaT and Cars and Bids to see if it gains traction there.

I assume you've replaced both oil control valves?

Use the stock LGT rear upper arms. Seems like the bushings in people's cars are all starting to fail or the arms need replacement at the same time mine did! I used aftermarket bushings (Whiteline) for the entire rear upper control arm. Would not do it again. Just go OEM for them and the arms. Better ride and I don't feel a difference in handling. Use the KTA124 kit if you need adjustable camber since the bushings along that rear lateral link assembly will be shot if your car is as old as mine. That should easily give you enough camber to even go stancy, if that's your thing.

Can you have a friend drive the car down the road and you listen for it? These cars make all sorts of whining sounds, especially if you have harder bushings for the trans and diff. I get tons of gear whine if I go off-throttle in second.

I’d be replacing everything that touches oil - the heads, OCVs, pump - whole engine is coming out. Want to do it right. I’m not in a position where I can park two cars right now, but after I’ve moved this coming week I may just buy a POS car and drive that around, save up for the engine work, and let her sit until then.

On a DynoJet, I'm making 271 WHP and 320 TQ. I've got a VF46, stock fueling and 07 LGT clutch assembly, and a few light power mods like a turbo inlet and TGV deletes. 213K on the stock block and it's starting to go for reasons unrelated to being run over factory power.

Definitely not a bad idea. I do promise you though that the valve clearance being as tight as it is would still be at the back of my head if it's not the source of all my issues. On the subject of AVCS, I replaced both OCVs and most, but not all, of my on-throttle misfires went away and it was nice. However, they keep getting clogged up. I don't think the car has ever missed oil changes, so I'm worried that there could be bearing material or something clogging them up. I've run the car low on oil once to the point where there was definitely an audible difference in engine note (probably ran it about a quart and a half low) and I'm sure the bearings didn't love that. Every time I change the oil, the problem is lessened for a couple days. Anyhoo, I'll drive the car for now and live with it. I guess we'll see what happens.

I’d suggest poly for the front control arm bushings and the Whiteline KTA124 kit, plus the Whiteline roll center correction kit. Beyond that, just go OEM. The rest of the bushings last a decent bit longer than the bushings those kits replace (apart from the roll center kit, which should always be installed in conjunction with lowered suspension). The front control arm bushings will help steering feel as well

The thing is definitely an absolute dog until about 3000 RPM, and if you floor it it will occasionally stutter all the way every 500 RPM or so to redline. It's fast if you really rag the hell out of it, but yeah, otherwise nearly undriveable with all the misfires and stalling. I can't drive with the AC on around the city because upshifts cause the car to almost stall.

It seems like this is the way. Is it for sure burnt or would tight valve clearance without bits of exhaust valve missing cause the occasional stalling, rough idle, etc? I took the intercooler off yesterday to get to the trans dipstick and nothing came pouring out as far as I could tell. Little bit of what seemed to be oil where the throttle body hose and intercooler connected, but I could have just had messy hands from the engine bay being a little gummy in general. The car does burn quite a lot of oil, especially under WOT. I burnt about a half of a quart in one day after a little cruise with a couple friends and maybe drove a total of 15 miles with them, plus some regular driving around Hillsboro, PDX, etc. I'd wager my valve stem seals are probably not doing hot either. I was already pretty sure of where this was going, but it seems a motor rebuild is the way. Thanks y'all.

These things were all conducted in one day pre-dyno: Valve cover gasket (hence the valve specs were discovered) MAF was replaced weeks prior. Passed all pre-dyno leak tests without issue. Coils are ay-OK validated by a local shop recently, plugs I did a year ago and are new NGK SILFR6A. Would tight valve clearances (not necessarily a burnt valve) cause compression issues? I'm sure the rings are not super healthy at this point, which is why I hesitate to just do the valves and head gaskets and then come to find I've cracked rings.

I should clarify: I just did Whiteline rear upper control arm bushings throughout the entire control arm. I would do OEM again instead if I could go back. I have tons of other suspension mods and didn't notice anything different in the characteristics of the handling apart from a stiffer rear end going over bumps and slightly more NVH. It got rid of the crazy amount of squeaking though

I’d remove all of them. Don’t want to starve any portion of the engine of oil, of course! They can be a pain to remove, which is why they’re commonly done as part of a timing belt job where access to one of them is easier. A couple on top of the engine are dead simple to remove. I’d remove those ASAP since it’s not difficult.

If you don't drive fast enough to warrant upgraded tires, why upgrade the rest of the suspension? I'm of the opinion you should start getting the handling characteristics you want starting with tires. I've only opted to replace half the shit on my car that I have because the old stuff was completely thrashed. My tires squeal at half the limits of the suspension. Don't get me wrong - the AS3+ is a pretty good tire at doing everything for 15-20K of daily driving with occasional backroads, but it's the first handling "bottleneck" you want to eliminate. If you're gonna go with all-seasons, put some Konis and H&Rs and the roll center kit on there, then do everything else OEM. Gives you a nice stance, handles better, and doesn't exceed the capabilities of the AS3+. Much nicer ride quality as well with less NVH. Little dulled on the steering response and feel, but that's what you get with all-seasons.

The motor burns a ton of oil. I'm not sure just doing the heads and valve adjustment on their own make sense. I'm sure my rings aren't exactly fresh with 213K on them. Last comp test was 140 on cylinders 1 and 3 and 120 on 2 and 4 when cold. Shows no compression issues when warm. Warm leakdown showed no issues.

Hi all. My LGT valvetrain is definitely getting ready to let go on me. Some occasional stalling that doesn't seem to be driver error, the car not wanting to idle, the car sputtering really badly on a cold start (it will damn near stall in neutral if cold started with the A/C on), the car trying to die on upshifts, and some decent idle roughness combined with some surging. With all the above, plus having been told about a year ago when having a valve cover gasket job done that my valves barely have any clearance left (iirc, it was about .07 mm on one of the exhaust valves), it's cause for concern. From what I understand, valve adjustments cannot be done with the engine in the car. So this begs the question: should I wait until I burn a valve and then have a motor rebuild done? Or do I risk damaging other stuff when the valve(s) let go? Is it typical to do a valve adjustment in the life of the EJ255/7? It seems like it would be extraordinarily expensive to do one unless the motor is already out and other things are being replaced.

I went with Whiteline ones and would NOT recommend it. Only thing I got from it was more NVH and noticed zero handling differences. Little bit more NVH, but not much. Mostly just felt that the ride was stiffer for rear passengers and no benefits.

I have Koni's and HnRs and they're as comfy as stock, full-stop, at least to me. I'm 21, FWIW. I work at a dealer and opted to get my dealer discount from Subaru with OEM tophats. I wouldn't recommend coilovers on our cars unless you need the ride height adjust-ability if you aren't tracking the car. Konis come with a range of stiffness and I opted for mine in the middle. Stiff doesn't feel too much worse, but you can tell that you've stiffened up the struts when messing with the little knob on top. About your arms and bushings, I'll speak for what I've done on my car. I have the KTA124 kit and the handling upgrade from that is tremendous. Highly recommended. I also did a rear sway bar around this time. My car has had four Kartboy endlinks on it since I replaced my thrashed ones a year or so ago and those were also a big upgrade. I have the stock front sway bar and wouldn't mind an upgraded one in the front to get some feel in the steering, but it's lots of fun to get the oversteer-prone handling response of the car with the setup it has now. I have Whiteline rear upper control arm bushings and only noted added firmness. Go OEM for these. I otherwise have OEM bushings in the suspension. In hindsight I wish I had done the front LCA bushings in polyurethane for steering feel and whatnot, but oh well. All of my bushings are new, OEM. I have the Whiteline roll center correction kit and would recommend using this if you lower the car. You're gonna wreck your ball joints soon enough if you use OEM ones on a lowered car anyways. Order in which I did these things: Tires Sway bar links All bushings aside from rear UCA bushings. Konis and H&Rs Rear sway bar Rear lateral link set Roll center kit Probably some more stuff, but there's a lot of it. I opted for stock top hats. I'd just recommend keeping these OEM or KYB on a daily. You're gonna have lots of adjustability for a -1 to -2 degree alignment with these modifications. As for tires, I also have AS3s and they're the limiting factor in grip with my mods, apart from driver skill. Definitely don't spend all this money on suspension mods and get all-seasons. The Falken Azenis FK510 is inexpensive and a decent daily-driver tire. Really can't stress enough that much of these mods are wasted if you get all-seasons. The AS3s are a decent all-rounder, but you should be looking at having two sets of wheels and tires to get the most out of this car. Edit: Read more of your condensed stuff. The diff bushings are NOT worth it. I did those and yes, shifts feel better, but the NVH increase is too much for my liking. Combined with the Group N trans mount, they're not my thing. When the diff comes out for a 6-speed swap I will definitely be sticking to OEM for those instead of poly.

First, use the Classifieds section. Second, to post something for sale on here, you need to have pictures in the ad. GLWYS

First of all, celebrate because you found the rarest form of the Legacy - a 2006 MY manual turbo wagon. I think they made like 30 of these? Start with all of the fluids and all of the rubber. Monitor your oil consumption. My car burns a quart every 1K miles. Yours might be more or less. Definitely do the timing belt if you haven't yet. Many suspension bushings will be showing their age by now, so look at your control arm bushings, sway bar endlinks, struts/top hats, etc. Remove your banjo bolt filters ASAP so you don't end up with an oil-starved turbo.

I did the 08 tails on my 05. The wiring is identical. You just need to pry a little bit of the retaining plastic for the turn signal. If you look at the back of each assembly, you’ll see the four flanges have a curve to them on the later design and the earlier design has four flanges that are more square in shape. I used needle nose pliers and had them in in a couple hours of mangling.

I change mine every 3K/3 months. I know some will say that’s a waste, but I’m almost certain one of the POs went too long between changes. I keep clogging up my OCVs, and my guess is from missed oil change gunk. So I do it early and often. Car runs better for the first couple days after an oil change, too, because of this problem. It should be noted that I only drive about 8K per year and do lots of short trips. I’m at 213K on the original engine. One of the POs also removed the banjo bolt filters in my car. For a regular car, I typically would recommend every 7K or 6 months, whichever comes first. For our cars, I’d do it a bit more often, but my OCI is excessive.

You only need to upgrade the actual stopping power if you're tracking the car. Stock LGT brakes are pretty good and handle a lot of heat. Upgrading brake components won't make your car stop faster. Our cars are heavy, so reducing weight would help a bit, as would upgrading tires. Also, should add that I did stainless lines today and notice almost zero difference. Probably the new fluid that did the doing.