AWDFTW

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Factory intake IS a cold air intake. It already flows more air than the engine can use in stock form. Nothing to be gained but noise. No power gains from gutting the cats either. Just emissions codes and more pollution. There are no cost effective power gains to be had from the NA engine. None. Zip. Zero. Enjoy what you have. Upgrade the suspension, brakes, tires to improve handling.

Anything is possible with enough: -Time -Money -Skill -Knowledge How much do you have?

If you say so. Gaskets and seals degrade...it's a thing that happens. All my Subaru's have leaked eventually, usually from the valve covers or plug seals or headgaskets (ok, that one is an actual flawed material usage on the old single layer type). So have my Fords, the Oldsmobile, the Toyota... In what fantasy land do materials not degrade with time, temp, and usage? Cause I want to buy my next car from there and bring it here to the real world.

It's not a Subaru problem really. Gaskets wear out over time. I've never had a vehicle that didn't start leaking from the valve covers or something eventually.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/our-sites-general-sale-rules-all-members-please-review-195213.html?t=195213

Another band aid option would be to have an exhaust shop cut out the bad sections and weld in some fresh pipe. Not a permanent fix if the exhaust system is on its' last legs, but it should be less than $100 and buy you some time to build back the Repair and Maintain bank account. Did this on my old 2003 about 2 years before I sold it, as replacing the entire system was almost what the vehicle would have been worth. The patches held for that time and the new owner still has it on the road. All that said, I've been pleased with Magnaflow components on other vehicles. Haven't had to do serious replacement yet on one of my Subarus though.

I'd check/change your PCV. May look into a air oil separator or a catch can. Grimmspeed's AOS (suggest used if you can find one, don't think they work well enough for their premium new price) works well for minor blow by. Crawford or IAG are better for moderate to heavy.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2-5gt-turbo-oil-supply-banjo-bolt-filter-removal-62371.html https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/remove-all-banjo-filters-222758.html

Leaving stock DP for time being, going to use Cobb's OTS Stage I map. Hope to replace with Cobb catted DP down the line and the OTS Stage II map and then get a protune if everything seems to be in good working order for a while.

Vehicle: 2006 OBXT Ltd with 5EAT. Around 110,000ish miles. Factory catted up pipe is still there and that makes me nervous. Gonna be pulling the TMIC off to apply the "bulletproof mod" to it...figure I should ditch the catted UP while things are apart, along with inspecting the banjo bolt filter. I am not made of money. This is a daily driver, not a track toy. Only mods will be a catless UP, Grimmspeed crank pulley, and a Cobb Stage I map for the time being. Cobb DP and a protune are eventual goals, but that exceeds my "Repair and Maintain/I make questionable money choices because I have a turbo Subaru" budget currently. What would you do? -Ebay no name special, around $50. -OEM catless, $75-$100 that I have found so far, many need some rust treatment. -Used Grimmspeed, $120-$180 depending on condition of what I have found locally. I don't want cheap junk that will break in a year, but $225+ for a brand new Cobb/Grimmspeed/Perrin/etc catless unit seems a little overkill for a going on 14 year old daily driver, so I'm looking at used for most mods (UP, DP, AP, etc).

You could have stated that in your first post instead of being a jerk about the answers you got.

Try that again. Your sentence makes no sense. You are putting what where?

NGK V power would have been the OEM plug from the factory for your 95.

Most any electric component is NGK or Denso supplied as OEM. I've pulled plent of factory parts that still had the brand sticker on them. They're the only things I use if at all possible in regards to plugs, wires, and sensors.

Dorman parts have been really hit or miss in my experience, hope those work well for you. Not sure if there is a difference in the Mevos and Ultra outside of cosmetics. Perhaps have different ball joint and bushing suppliers...

For a daily driver with minor to moderate modifications, I think the best bang for the buck would be the "bulletproof mod" for the stock TMIC. That's what I'm planning on with mine, as I have no plans to go beyond Stage II power levels...still waiting to find a nice used Cobb DP. That said, I would jump on a used Grimmspeed unit for the right price. The new price of $1000 is a lot of coin in my world for a not tracked daily driver that needs a steady upkeep and repairs budget.

Any shop that does not automatically replace tensioners on an interference engine would make me not want to give them money.

Gates is cheap junk anymore. Get Aisin's kit.

Never seen it done on one that old.

*eyes post count* ...when do you sleep though?

I've been happy with Centric Premium or Raybestos RPT/Element 3 rotors (same basic design, name depends on old or new stock). My go to pads are PosiQuiet ceramics, although I'm currently running Raybestos EHT/Element 3 hybrid pads. Little dustier than the Posi, can't say I notice a performance difference.

KYB is the OEM supplier. The Excel-G's are slightly firmer than stock. Enough improvement to notice but not an order of magnitude change.

I think you need a different vehicle. I can't recall you posting anything positive about this one.

Better than expected. Compound, polish, buff should take out all but the deepest of those.