stewdogg

Does anyone happen to know what the spring is for on the exhaust side cam gears? I imagine it's a part of the AVCS, but not sure if it is used to dampen or balance the gear? I'm wondering if it could possibly make the cam seal leak because...

 

I ended up having some oil coming out from the back of the timing belt cover after I got to work last Friday. I got it pulled apart tonight and found that the spring on the right/passenger side exhaust cam gear was broken and just hanging there. My step dad put that side in and I'm not sure if he noticed or not... I'll check tomorrow and have to give him a hard time if he did!

 

Go figure, they only sell the whole gear and not the spring separately.

I got the Kartboy short shift plate. They claim 38% reduction in shift length and the Boomba claims 30% reduction. I didn't use the bearing that came with it and paired it with the Perrin bushing instead. I like the setup a lot, but only have the stock setup to compare it to.

So, it's the 2008+ Sti 20mm RSB that fits our cars...?

Well, I drove her home tonight!!! Had to wrap some things up, get the initial 20 min break in and oil/filter dump before I could drive it home. I ended up heading home around 12:30am and got home at 2am. Lots of RPM fluctuating on the way home takes a long time.

 

I still have a few things to tie up while I go through the break in period, but I'm already 65 miles down just on the ride home.

 

I really like the the clutch dampener delete and the South bend clutch is so easy to drive, feels like stock.

 

I will do a more proper write up with pics in the next week or so.

 

It's a crappy pic and the car is filthy, but just look at my baby back on the road again (under it's own power) for the first time since February 1st. It was a bunch of work and I'm really glad to have it back!

Oh yeah, this is the final form for the turbo porting that I ended up with. I couldn't stop and ported quite a bit more, but I'm happy with how it turned out. I didn't find any hollow parts and everything sounds solid when hit with a wrench.

Here's the Frankenstein charge pipe I came up with. I'm using the stock charge pipe flange and left a little of the lip from the flexible section to hold the clamp on. It is a very tight fit around the pipe and also in the car. I also have an aluminum flange on the slow boat in case the set up fails under boost.

 

I should hopefully be starting the beast tomorrow night. I have been burning at both ends the last couple weeks and I'm getting burnt. It's a lot of work, planning and money to get this done or at least started again. "Done" might be for another time all together.

Weird. No hollow areas? :lol:

 

Did you measure the wastegate opening? I'm curious how much BNR increased it.

 

Haha, yeah, my butt was a little clenched and I was sweating a bit while I was doing it. I figured it was the same exhaust side of the turbo that everyone else has already ported and not found any hollow areas, so I kept grinding. I think it turned out great and smooth from the get go with the die grinder.

 

So, when are you porting yours mcg_?

 

I didn't measure the wastegate opening, but Bryan did say he pushed it out as far as he's comfortable.

So, I got a little wastegate porting done tonight.

First two pics are progress and the last two are what I ended up with. Does it look like there should be any other porting done or does it look ready to go?

I received the same call from Bryan and agree that he did what he said he was going to do and a great job of customer service as well.

 

My question is:

This is the same exhaust side of the turbo that everyone else on the forum has used, correct? If that is the case, I should be able to taper the edge of the wastegate without issue. Bryan was saying that the housing is hollow in places and that's how it would get ruined, but as I stated above, the housing seems to have enough meat for the modification.

I agree mine doesn't look ported at all. Compared to the pic in this thread it doesn't looked touched in my pic.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/community-turbine-housing-260232.html?highlight=port+turbo

 

I just shot Bryan an email about, I'll see what he says. In the meantime, I will be porting my turbo.

Is there anything not to do while porting it? The general idea is to taper the inlet side by knocking down the one side to a ramp type angle?

I got my 16g back from BNR today. Looks like he did not port my waste gate, and just a "heads up," it doesn't look like he ported yours either as I can see the casting impressions where there should be none.

 

Well ain't that some shit! I was wondering... didn't look like much porting to me.

Did you contact him about it? I'm going to fire him off an email and ask what happened. I have the tools to do it myself, but thought I already paid for it. Looks like I have a little turbo work to do this week.

Congrats on finally getting your turbo back. Are you going to port yours yourself?

 

The gasket on the flange lines up in the mid part of the turbo flange. And the gasket has a little ring etched in to the flange that it sits in. It really would be a nice flange if only the bolt hole spacing was better. The outlet is 1-3/4" which is what the turbo outlet is.

 

Hmm, that sounds like a decent enough match to work. I think I might try to cut the stock charge pipe just before the ribs and use that for the turbo output. I will use it till I get out of the break in period and then get all the parts to do this with the aluminum flange/silicone. I'm not too sure gluing (with a clamp of course) the silicone pipe to the stock plastic pipe will hold up to 20+lbs of boost...?

I can just pick the one up from your link, so you can have yours in your parts bin for future endeavors.

OK so the flange that I have doesn't quite work. The bolt holes are too far apart by a little. You might be able to slot them and get it to work, but it isn't perfect.

I bought one of these ages ago and ended up not using it. I'd send ot to you for just shipping, but I'm really thinking its 50/50 that you could use it. The gasket is nice.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Inlet-1-75-Compressor-Adapter-Flange-Fit-Garrett-GT28-GT28R-GT2560R-GT28RS/223119351063?hash=item33f2f31d17:g:KIkAAOSwrR5bg7sg

 

Thanks for looking into it for me! Where does the gasket on the flange line up with the flange on the turbo?

 

It's going to be tough to find the perfect flange for this setup. Maybe I'll get lucky and the Frankensteined stock charge pipe will work fine under boost.

 

I did get a little work done on the engine this weekend. I didn't realize till opening the box, that Napa gave me a SOHC head gasket seal kit and not a DOHC head gasket kit. They are the intelligent parts guys in town that I have very good luck with at work, bummer it had to happen on this build. You just can't go anywhere to buy parts for this car. Everything is two days out at least, no matter what I try to order.

 

I also ran into another great idea from the last "mechanic". The inside of the cavity that the oil cooler mounts to was all smashed up and jacked when I took out the cooler from the old block. There are some gusset supports that were busted and it looked like he drilled the inner part out and tapped more threads, so he could use (what I assume is) a NA Legacy oil cooler mount. That mount is longer than the stock mount and therefore won't fit in my new block. When the threads bottom out there's still and inch or so till the cooler gets to the new block. I'm headed to the dealer today to see if I can match it up and verify the new one fits. I'll get some pics when I pull the block apart and find my issue that killed the block.

 

I also had a bunch of metal in the old engine. There are some little filters in the oil control valve blocks mounted on the bottom of the heads, I put a pic below. The machine shop tried to pull them to clean them and put a hole in one. He said they are too clogged to clean. I can't seem to find them anywhere online/dealer separate from the block. The oil control block is $100 and I need one on each side. If I could just find the little plastic/mesh filter, I'm sure it would only be a couple bucks...

 

Here's a pic of the heads going back on, the oil control valve filters and the block, at least starting to get a little longer.

The gasket for charge pipe > turbo outlet is the same size as the VF52, I know that for sure.

 

I might have something at home that works, let me verify tonight. (It's lucky that I have a 20G VF54 sitting in my closet to test it on)

 

Thanks! Any help would be much appreciated! It will be the last part of the puzzle to get together. I'm excited to get it started.

 

I got my intake manafold put back together tonight, along with the ID1050X injectors.

 

I did get my turbo back from BNR yesterday and it looks great!

Here are some pics of the sweet little boost machine.

Has anyone here made a custom charge pipe or is everyone using a RacerX or some pre made one?

 

I'm having trouble finding an output flange for the charge pipe that fits. I tried the Process West Turbo to Intercooler Hose Adapter and it doesn't quite fit. The oring seal is right at the edge of the turbo flange and I suspect it could blow it out at that point. If it only used a flat mating surface it would work fine.

 

I'm thinking to get me by till I figure out a solution, I will cut up the charge pipe I have and see if I can at least get that to work for now till I find a permanent solution.

The gray key is a valet key and shouldn't open the trunk or glove box. It should only unlock the door and start the car. Too bad it doesn't keep the car out of boost, that would make me feel better about giving my keys to someone else.

IDK, I have 132,xxx on odometer and during my swap I noticed it says "2010 LGT 8K" in pink marker (assume from salvage yard) on top of the trans, so I really don't know how many miles on it. I hope it lasts for a few years yet at least though.

Bummer, sorry to hear that!

 

How many miles on the trans?

I have read the thread before and didn't remember that part.

 

Have any issues with the ethanol at all over that time? How does it feel in the mid RPM range? How's the in town driving... where does it shine?

Nice, how long have you had that? How do you like it? What fuel you running?

FWIW here's a pic of the upgraded fork and pivot.

It does look like yours is sunk into the tapered part of the ball.

What did you have Bryan build for you?

 

I'm trying the HTA71 (recommended by him) with flex fuel.

I just got a call from Bryan at BNR! I Have my payment in and the turbo should be shipping today or tomorrow!! Now I just gotta get those frickin heads back/done.

Those pics look a little different. Can you move the fork? Does it seem like it went through?

 

I have the aftermarket fork and ball that I could take a pic of, if you think it will help?

Are you just looking at how far the ball sits in fork divot?

Possibly surface rust?

 

Could just be dust from the ball eating through the fork. The lube goes away from between the ball and fork, then it just acts like sandpaper till it eats through enough to push the ball through.

Well, that don't look good, but cheaper than a bad trans.

From here it looks like the ball went through and there is a crack in the fork...?