stewdogg

My wife has been doing this for just over a month. she seems to be pretty satisfied with them.

The one thing is that they aren't as refined as their more expensive competitors. I showed her how to customize the first set with a Dremel and a fine bit. Now, she does them every week or two that she changes out to new ones.

There seems to be a low level of annoyance to deal with most of the time, but she seems to be getting better at accepting it or she's getting used to them over time. Sore tongue or cheeks seems to be the biggest issues so far, with sore jaw/teeth seeming to be less of an issue than the others.

Good luck!

This is a pretty good read on the restrictor pill/boost control situation:

http://share.subiefiles.com/subiefiles/technical%20reference/BoostControlSystemExplained%20v1.01%20Cobb%202006.pdf

 

I measured the inner diameter of the restrictor and it's 1mm/.040".

 

If you need the outer measurement as well, let me know.

I can confirm that there is indeed a restrictor in the stock boost control hoses. I have the stock setup sitting here in front of me on the desk, from switching out to the 3 port EBCS.

I have to run out right now, but can stick the calipers on it to measure it when I get back later... I guess I'm not sure if they go by outer diameter or size of the hole...?

Just because... they were cheap...?

 

It looked so good on the way out of the store, I had to take a pic... and now I'm "that guy" taking pics of his car in the parking lot, while juggling all my stuff...

 

I wanna say most vendors don't really know exactly what fits our cars and what doesn't. I have the Southbend FJK1001-HD-O and it fits.

 

I have the same exact clutch in my car and it's smooth like budda.

I agree that testing the system is the only way to find out.

 

It would be interesting to see a comparison of blown head gaskets to failed radiator caps in Subaru's.

My 27 year old A/C unit went out two weeks ago and we replaced it with a new Trane.

They told me they couldn't get new parts for the 27 year old Carrier we had, but said the 27 year old furnace should be good to go for a while because they can get plenty of parts for it. It's only an 80% unit, but that's fine for now.

Thirded and currently installed on my car, but I went with the 26mm CKE SSP bushings.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cke-ssp-performance-bushings-24mm-26mm-fsb-267039.html

Too nice of a day not to take a pic.

 

That's weird that they did anything to the exhaust manifold unless it was leaking. I would find another repair shop if they are doing some questionable things with your car.

 

That heat shield is notorious for rusting to bits and falling apart.

The turbo doesn't get disturbed when doing the timing belt.

 

Do you have a check engine light or is the exhaust louder than normal?

 

There is supposed to be a heat shield where you see the headers in the pic. I imagine that is your culprit. Just skip the heat shield and plastic skid plate and go with an aluminum Primitive racing skid plate. I got rid of my rusty heat shield and now just run the Primitive skid without any fires.

 

http://get-primitive.com/skidplates/112-front-skid-plate-2010-2012-legacy-gt.html

 

Seems like they don't carry the cheaper/thinner plate anymore. I got the 3/16" when they offered the 1/4" one anyway.

 

https://parts.wildesubaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=49251429&ukey_assembly=6021266

 

16183 and 44643A is what you would need to put it back to stock.

Haha, I wish there was some gold in there. It would have helped to pay for some of these frickin mods I'm doing.

I think most of this stuff comes down to your peace of mind. What ever makes you feel comfortable is the right way to go. People ask me mechanical advise every day and some are more into safety and some into saving money.

 

That being said, I don't see many water pumps fail anymore. I didn't replace the pumps on my 2002 WRX or 2005 Forester XT and they were fine... I still have the Forester. I run a fleet that does around 800,000 miles a year and I only see a failed water pump every 5 years or so. I personally wouldn't replace the waterpump if only doing the timing belt, but I do the work myself and don't have to pay for labor. On the other hand, I did just rebuild my entire engine and replaced the waterpump because everything was new at that point and I think it would be silly to spend that money and not have a new waterpump.

 

Again, I think you should do what makes you comfortable and by your post I believe replacing the waterpump makes the most sense.

 

The tensioner is a no brainer and a proven part to fail, so I would replace that for sure.

 

Good luck! If you wanna take a stab at it yourself there is a bunch of info and tons of knowledge here for you to use. Plus, sounds like you have a BMW or two to drive while the Legacy is under repair.

Took a trip to Wyalusing State Park for some break in miles.

 

I was floored to see how much garbage was in the bottom of the fuel pump bucket. The tank looked nice and clean, so I'm not exactly sure how it got there except for rust from the hold down ring or something while removing the pump stuff.

 

 

I cleaned it out into a rag and there was some silver flakes in there too.

 

You can zoom in on the pics more if you click on them.

 

I'm not happy to have to go through so much stuff on this car, but happy I have repaired/cleaned up so much crappy work from the previous owners.

 

The pump works great and is nice and quiet, sounds like stock. I will see how it works when the wideband is installed and I get a tune on this thing... finally!!

While I wait for my wideband to get here, I installed the new fuel pump.

 

I installed the AEM 50-1200 E85 fuel pump to feed my ID1050X injectors. The install was pretty straight forward and easy.

 

I did have to modify the bottom white clip that retains the fuel pump in place, I just hit it with the Dremel till it fit nice and snug.

 

The bottom of the AEM pump had some little tabs that I cut off with some wire snips.

 

I also had to remove the rubber piece that was below the stock fuel pump to have enough room to get the clip on.

 

This is what it looked like after I got it together.

 

I guess if it dies prematurely I will try to get a rubber spacer next time, but I assume it will be fine.

 

The wiring was plug and play and everything else matched up nicely too. It sits a little lower in the mount, but doesn't seem to affect anything. Nice and easy install.

I have to admit, I did go in to the wrong cap under the rear seat on the first try, it was the level sensor side, whoops.

 

Ooh, I learned how to insert the images in my posts today, nice.

I feel like the stance looks a little off with those wheels. I would want the rear wheels to come out more flush with the quarter panel, like the fronts do.

superior is a strong word.

 

I'm trying it because it is larger than the OEM Subaru filter and uses the same 23psi bypass valve. I believe that the more surface area for filtering is a good thing. That and I have read others having good luck with them on Subaru's.

 

This was posted in the other thread by Scubaboo and is a good read on Subaru oil filters.

 

https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f113/subaru-oil-filter-comparison-99130/

Get a long screwdriver or mechanic's stethoscope and stick it on specific parts of the engine to determine where the noise is the clearest/loudest. That will let you know where the issue is coming from and what parts are there that could make that type of noise.

Is there a favorite hitch receiver lock anyone would recommend. Apparently many of the popular brands are also just name recognition junk.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

Depends on how much you want to tow. I plan on getting the Ecohitch, but I just want it for a bike rack, so not much strength needed for me.

 

Towards the end of the first page...

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/hitch-2013-legacy-210110.html?t=210110&highlight=ecohitch

 

Edit: Nevermind, I re read and realized you were asking about the lock and not the hitch.

Does the sensor in the AEM kit fit in the OEM bung location? No need to use the bung in the kit? This seems like a way better option than welding another bung location. Especially seeing as it's not needed post tuning, unless there is more tuning down the road, I suppose.

 

Just checking before I pull the trigger on the order.

Just leaving this here, so I can come back and reference it, if or when my memory goes and I forget what filter I'm using.

Trying this guy out for my oil filters now. Looks like a bigger volume than most I have seen so far and seems like the filter material is nicer too. I will cut them open and see, I have some older crappy ones I will cut at the same time and do a little comparing.

Sorry for my ignorance, but what car is it?

My wife likes the turbo cars too.