stewdogg

Alright, I have had a heck of a time trying to get the NASIOC website to work for me. I finally found that Google Chrome works and nothing else I found does.

I have enough posts to put up a WTB for the Sti cams.

Can I use any year Sti cams or do I need 2008+ cams?

Also, I remember reading that the clutch fork is a weak point, so I would like to change that out while I'm in there. Anyone have a link to the upgraded fork?

Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it! I have fixed plenty of vehicles over the years, but never built one, so the help is very welcomed with this unique beast.

STi cams.... Are they worth it? Well, if you are going with a full build - why not. They can only help. They wont hurt. It would not affect "longevity". All they really do is allow the engine to open up a bit more and hold on a bit longer. However, if you don't, you prob will be forever kicking yourself. Now, its not worth it in the sense of if you were only doing that mod. Meaning that the gains would not be "worth it" based on the cost and labor of the part alone plus a new tune. That would prob run about $1500-$2000 - for a bit of a stronger top end? nope.

Haha, thanks, that was just the kind of enabling arm twisting I needed.

Another thought... you said you were not going to do the heads. IAG did mine. Apparently, mine were the first they ever really did in shop - so they now have experience! lol. Heck, you might even chat with them about putting it all together in a sense and send it all to you in one box.

I was thinking I should talk to them as well. Thanks again!

I think I paid less than $100 for my STI cams/springs... So, the parts cost is relatively low.

Where did you find them for that price... ebay?

Not sure if you're looking for someone to do this work, but I've heard good things about this place if you are: http://quantum-performance.com

 

All Subarus pictured on their homepage.

 

They're a couple hours from Madison near Port Washington, but if you need the job done right, you might have to look around.

Thanks for the link! I will look at the eye candy they have there.

My step dad has a 4 post lift in his big garage and has many years experience with Subies. He is in Waukesha too. I have a lift in town too, but can't leave my car on it for that long, so it will go to his house for a month or so.

I had mine built by AWDTuning. They too sell Stage 1 and Stage 2 Blocks (mine is their base Stage 2) They built the whole thing - we had many conversations about what goes where and what is needed. I drive it daily (30k/year) so I didn't want anything "rough". The injectors and pump had to be upgraded because I run corn. 1000s are perfect. I am looking to switch into an AEM pump tho... DW has started to drop in reputation - first their injectors, now their pumps. Mine is fine so far, but I have 120K on it so its getting time to switch it out. There is a great DIY thread here that I followed to swap out the pumps. Pretty cool and easy. If you will stay with normal gas - stockers are fine....but it doesn't hurt to upgrade them - easy plug and play. The valves were upgraded simply for the power. Stock water pump.

This can get all out of hand if you aren't careful. What you want vs what you need can be tough. To give you an idea - my whole build - engine, custom FMIC, custom TM oil cooler, clutch, and tunes put me upwards of about $15k. An engine build alone will run about $8-9k. Thats new short block engine ($3k), all the little adds, and the swap out labor. Tunes run about $500 per tune as well - 4 hours work.

Now all of this is by a top notch crew. You of course can save a lot by knowledgeable friends and access to a shop - which I did not have.

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Thanks island, I appreciate the conversation and knowledge on the subject!

I will be doing all the labor (aside from the heads) my self, so I will save a little cash with that.

I think I'm going to go with the stage 2 IAG block and go from there. I would like to keep the engine around the $6,000-7,000 range. I won't count the down pipe and sway bar bits in my engine build, so that will help a bit with the bottom line.

The one thing I'm unsure of is if the Sti cams are worth the $800 buy in? I hear people say it helps with mid range power, but how much and does it provide any more longevity to the engine?

Here's what they put in mine - for ideas.

 

JE Forged Pistons

King Bearings

Manley H-Tuff Rods w/ARP 2000 Rod bolts

2012 STi Crankshaft

IAG Machined heads

JE Headgaskets

NGK Iridium One Step Colder 2309 Spark plugs

GSC P-D Intake/Exhaust Valves 33mm (+1mm)

Gates Timing belt kit w/water pump

ARP Head Stud kit

2012 Sti Cams

11mm Sti Oil Pump

Injector Dynamics 1000 fuel injectors

IAG Billet Aluminum CNC Top Feed TGV Deletes

Thanks islandborn!!

Did you upgrade the injectors for corn?

Did you need to upgrade the valves to compensate for the Sti cams?

Ugh, I forgot about the TGV deletes...

Did you get the IAG stage 2 block?

Is it just a stock water pump or an Sti pump?

Sorry you had such a bad experience. With your car, you were just set up to fail. With an owner who didn't change the timing belt and have it break, who knows what happened after that, not to mention "the kid" you bought it from?

I appreciate it! I knew this was a crap shoot with the prior issues, but there aren't too many around and I got it for $8,500. I figure I will have a similar amount of money into it that I would have if I had gotten a nice stock GT from the get go. Plus, this way I get it built more the way I want it and it will be new enough that I can have fun with the gas pedal and not worry so much about things.

I tend to try and look at the bright side.

Thanks Man!

That was my next step, to call the parts guy tomorrow and find a couple things out.

I guess that would make me lean back towards the IAG build. You know of a good place to get the Sti cams from? Do I just go with any 2008+ Sti cams?

FLlegacy, this is the list I got from you in the other thread, I'm going to look up prices tomorrow. Anything else to add to the list?

Edit, I added to the list:)

ARP studs - $200

STI cams - $165

Sti valve spring kit - $250

Sti valves +1mm - $80

STI oil pump - $150

Felpro Gasket set - ~$200

oem timing belt set - $300

Stock Legacy GT water pump - $100

IAG stage 2 with the seal kit - $3306

BNR 18g turbo - $950

Fuel injectors -

Machining work...?

Stuff I want to add not counted in the rebuild price.:

Invidia down pipe - $600

Bigger front sway bar (while I have the engine out) - $100

So, the ole girl pooped the bed last Friday night on the way home from work...

It had been starting to idle real low upon clutch in and then finally dying on clutch in. I think the wrist pin got loose enough to cause drag on the piston. It's not locked up yet, but isn't drivewble anymore. It was getting way too hard to stay out of boost anyway.

It was on a really cold night and people seemed to want to honk and flip me off instead of helping, while I pushed my car by myself down a busy 3 lane road.

I've only had it for 9 months too...

Now I'm looking for a beater with a heater to get through the winter and gather my parts for the mild build.

I started a thread on building an engine on a budget, but will just continue the conversation here.

Here is said thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/would-you-spend-moneyi-277451.html

I like the idea of a 2019 sti shortblock and then adding the sti cams and upgraded head studs. Maybe it would save a couple bucks here to spend there...?

Anyone direct me to a thread that list parts needed to do this kind of swap?

What's the difference between the 2019 sti shorty and the IAG built stage 2 shorty?

I'm not convinced it does any better than a good quality oil changed regularly. If I may add, if you are using a high quality oil you would be much better off just using the full fill of it. As Lucas apparently has no actual additives in it to enhance oil. So you are actually diluting the additives in your oil by using it. Yes a thicker oil will make the car run smoother, because thicker oil takes up more space in all the clearances of the motor. Much the same as running a thicker oil would, only with oil you have the full advantage of the oil additives you paid for. Personally, I put 5 quarts of castrol edge 0-40.

 

Reading material if you care to investigate Lucas Oil stabilizer further:

https://www.raso.name/cars/20-lubrication/63-lucas-oil-stabilizer

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reading! Now I feel dumb, but I would rather know than not know.

I used the Lucas to help pump up my failing lifters for years

(just to buy a few more thousand miles in the fleet vehicle before tear down) and then just started using it on all the trucks. I should have done my due diligence and done the research, but went with the unfounded sense of security instead.

I'll have to find the oil that makes my Subie's quieter... maybe I'll try the 0-40 that you use, but might be different in the cold I have here...?

Looks like I'm only going to use the rest of the Lucas for pumping up dying lifters or holding doors open.

Thanks man!

When I do an oil change I put in a quart of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer with 3.4 quarts of Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil. I have 93K miles and knock on wood I don't use any oil. The Lucas Stabilizer seems to put a nice seal on the rings and elsewhere. I change the oil and filter once a year.

 

I have read some negative articles about Lucas Oil treatment but they are over 10 years old. I have also read some very positive articles as well. So what are your thoughts? Good or bad?

I use the Lucas oil stabilizer in my fleet at work and in my personal cars as well. It keeps the boxer a little quieter, in my opinion.

Just arrived and will be put on the parts shelf for now. Lol!

Can we get a pic of that parts shelf to drool over, must be awesome!

Just ordered my Eibach springs ) , $106.60, now I just need to buy the kyb struts and mounts . They also told me they didn’t have many left

Damn, that's a great price! I paid ~$250 for mine this summer.

For that price I would get both the Eibach's and the 13-14 stock springs.

Sorry to hear about the engine trouble. What exactly happened and have you thought about just going short block vs long block?

 

I used BNR for a stock turbo refresh and wastegate port. Fair price and pretty quick turnaround. New chra, wastegate actuator, and cleaned up and painted exhaust side on my stock turbo.

Thanks Shadow! I have narrowed it down to having a bad wrist pin.

I have also thought about going short vs long block. I don't have the time or money right now for the short block build. I would rather build it, but it's my daily. I will use some of the money on a J pipe and new/refreshed turbo.

What was the turn around time on your turbo build? I was gong to try and get it all together and then install it in a long weekend...

You will need to send in your stocker - they create the 18g out of it. And yes, they can port it too. Most of us on here that have gone to a bigger turbo runs a BNR. Great work, solid price, and very helpful if you need to call. There is a Tomioka 20g one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tomioka-Racing-VF54-Turbo-for-2010-Subaru-Legacy-GT/112435052257?epid=13002507579&hash=item1a2da6bee1:g:5DUAAOSwstJZOJPg:rk:2:pf:0

and I think a couple have used it - I can't speak on quality as I don't know much about it. I'm on my third BNR turbo so I'm a bit biased

Thanks for the heads up islandborn! Hmm, I thought that I was getting a new turbo (also thought it was a great price). It makes sense that they need your core.

I did a little light reading and came across jackal8788's thread of his 18g to 20g saga. This made me think that the 18g is where I should be at because this will be a mild build and I don't plan on doing cams or any other large upgrades... at the moment anyway. The 18g sounded like a better in town ripper option.

Do you have any other reading for me, to help me decide on what turbo I should put in my LGT?

I wonder if there's a chance that someone has a stocker laying around that they would want to trade, so I could get the work done on the turbo before I take things apart?

You're on your third BNR... different cars or are you hard on your things?

I really wish I wasn't doing this 6 months after getting the car, but I know the risks of buying a car let alone a used turbo version... just a bummer is all.

So, I have some internal engine failure and I'm forced to retire this stock engine...

I'm looking at getting a long block and picking up a new (used if I could find it) BNR 18g.

https://bnrsupercars.wordpress.com/2010-2014-subaru-legacy-gt-turbocharger-upgrades/

Is BNR the place to get a turbo from at the current time? It looks like they port the wastegate too? I imagine I would be better off with the BNR turbo over porting a stock turbo myself...?

That is a very respectable home indeed!

Why are you getting rid of the ole girl? I have seen you talk about the fact that you have to get rid of the car, but not why.

I also went the RockAuto route... No performance differences from the real things from what I can tell.

Yeah, the link was from you in my GT thread. Thanks!

I covered mine with Laminx tint colored film and like the look a lot. Plus, I get a little added protection to the new LED's.

I was trying to justify that. They run about $250 for the pair don't they?

 

On a side note, I epoxied the tabs back on last night. Now letting them dry for a couple days before I have the time to reinstall.

I went through this a couple of months ago.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7946484&jsn=258

I got a set off of ebay for $83/pair, but didn't see any there when I just did a quick search.

I think it's a good affordable upgrade.

AutoBahn Country Club in Joliet, IL, specifically on the North Course, for Subaru Speedo Expo 2018. Are you on Chitown Subarus group on Facebook (or on Facebook at all)? They host a ton of events, most of which you're really not too far away to participate in.

I'm not on Facebook... I waste enough time everywhere else in life.

Does AutoBhan CC have a website and list the Subaru events?

What you're saying is true in most cases, but not the 5th gen GT's.

Read this:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/nameless-downpipe-official-5th-gen-gt-install-thread-247036.html

I painstakingly read through the whole thing and I wouldn't expect that pipe to do anything for a 5th gen, but YMMV.

My tuner told me about boost creep on the 5th gens and I went down the rabbit hole.

It may just be the way the GFB valve sits, I had a little trouble getting the Turbosmart one on as well. As for the EBCS I used the hole in the radiator support to bolt the controller to. It was a pain getting the bolt started but I though it would work out better than makeing a new hole, thats been a while and I haven't even thought about it since.

Thanks FLlegacy! That is pretty much the same place I put my EBCS too.

Thanks for the confirmation on the fit of the BPV hose too! I really appreciate the help!

I just saw this thread, and it stood out that you're in Madison. I'm in Waukesha, and in the four years I've owned my Legacy (not a GT, but a 6-speed anyway), I've never seen a GT on the roads anywhere, not even on a recent 2200 mile road trip (and most I've seen are automatics). The GT is a rare beast, as we know. Nice car.

Thanks copyboy!

Well, you might see mine in Waukesha sometime. That is where my mom lives... I guess she is just outside of Waukesha, but I sometimes run into town and grab some chicken at the Chicken Palace. That place is awesome and some of the best chicken I have had.

I picked mine up close to Deerfield and was looking for a WRX/STi at the time, but am very happy I found this unique beast!

Do you have a build or pics of your Legacy here somewhere?

Thanks FLlegacy! I have lived with the color a while and I still like it a lot, so I ordered another can of copper and I will see what else I can cover tastefully. I wonder if it would look decent with the roof strips painted...? Now, I gotta go and find how to remove them.

I also got my Grimmspeed EBCS installed last night (installed the GFB BPV last week) and a stage 1 tune loaded up. There aren't a ton of options for mounting that boost controller, but I got it done. I may go back to change the mount and replace the hoses from the wastegate and turbo because the ones with the EBCS are a little small, but I will see how it works the way it sits.

I did have a little trouble with the hose between the BPV and air intake pipe for the turbo. I am now thinking that the previous owner that had the car apart flipped the hose upside down... ? It just didn't seem to pull down all the way on the lower air intake pipe. I'm going to try and flip it and see if it make a difference.

On to the fun part, driving.

I didn't get a chance to test drive and log because I got it finished late last night and just drove home. I need to get my normal driving logs tonight and send them off to the tuner. The first wave tune is like a heavy turd compared to the stock Cobb 91 tune. I know it's just to see if everything is cool before moving forward to WOT pulls.

Thanks for the help and enabling to get me to this point!!

I imagine because it's not holding any fluid back that you should be just fine, as long as you have some pressure on it and you do.

If you are going to try and fix it...

So, the threads that stripped or partially stripped are in the transmission?

You could always try a thread chaser and see if that brings back the threads enough to hold 30ftlbs of torque. If the easy way didn't work, I would install a heli-coil kit and be done with it. They are great and easy to use, as long as you have decent access to the area and can get a drill in there.

Nice work Humble!

What do you mean that the bolt partially stripped the opening? Did the bolt elongate the hole int he trans mount or did the bolt/nut lose some threads?

A night pic with the new color.

It's a crappy phone pic too, but looks better if you click on it.