stewdogg

How about that weather? I also was considering the Koni drop with /13-14 springs, as well as the face lift with the STI lip.. but I get tons of snow in the front grill from plowing through 6-10" of snow.. and then that melts into the bumper and forms just massive ice chunks.

 

I found a new 2010 Legacy GT owner in Chippewa Falls! Has the twilight blue metallic.

 

I am also dealign with the dreaded P0420. Dealer even added spacers to up/down stream sensors for me, rec'd 1-2 cans of seafoam, and Cata Clean. Sad part is I had the turbo and cat replaced at 70k with a used turbo/cat with like 35k. Sitting at 85k now and code has never gone away, just keep resetting the ECU agh..

 

Moral Hazard how does the romraider work? I miss my cruise control and traction control.

Haha, the weather is finally just getting better down here. You guys are going to get hammered again this weekend, I think...? I'm surprised you found another 5th gen in Chippewa and I haven't' seen one here with the population difference. That's almost enough to have a Wisconsin 5th gen meet up.

Damn, 85k, that sounds awesome while I sit at 130,000.

I have the 1" drop with the Eibach's and didn't really get a chance to test it in much snow this year before the wrist pin gave out.

Luckily I just swapped out my O2 sensor and that P04020 went away.

Well mine lasted about 190k, so I guess I'm really not that bad off. You really might as well replace it when you're doing the clutch. It's only $40 now, but a lot more if you have to drop the tranny later.

Are you going with another stock fork or getting the upgraded fork?

So I got the master changed out. It was a long tedious process and very frustrating.

 

While I was bleeding the clutch, the (new) slave cylinder puked its guts out. Total failure. I am very frustrated. Time to see what Rockauto will do.

Sorry it's going so rough, those tough days working on a car really sucks! I been there plenty too, time for a beer and another regroup. Good luck!

Where did the slave cylinder fail?

Thanks guys!

The engine was just refreshed, so no worries for me with any of the common high mileage engine stuff, I hope. And unlike with my GT, I know the person who did the work on this car.

I have some Moog links (from Humble) that I just recently installed, I'm sure those must work with the 13-14 2.5i FSB...?

The 3.6R bar doesn't, but the OEM '13-'14 2.5i bar is 26mm, and that one does fit.

Thanks, the price is right on that as well! Nothing like a new stabilizer upgrade for ~$70! I was starting to give up on the idea of changing it out and putting that $300 towards more engine upgrades.

I'm currently waiting for a quote on a small block from a local Subaru builder, it should be here tomorrow and then I will make the decision of who I'm going to have build it. I gave up on IAG, it's been difficult to get a builder to to talk to over the last couple weeks and their build time is quite far out. I do want my car back as soon as I can. The 2007 NA Legacy is fine, but I want my BOOST back!

Currently looking at Quantium Performance and Topshelf Performance for my small block.

So, I picked up a 4th gen 2007 Legacy to get me by while I get this build done. It just got a new rebuild engine put in and has no rust. It also has the high output 2.5 with the upgraded cams. At least I don't have to stress about getting to work every day.

Question, from what I have read the only 26mm front sway bar upgrade is the Whiteline bar? Does the 2013 3.6R only fit the NA 2010 Legacy?

I think we went over this some time ago, but IIRC they updated the part to incorporate the TSB. When my first one went bad it was just a few weeks before the TSB came out, so it was replaced with another one that went bad within a year. The second time I had it replaced under warranty, they installed the updated part that incorporated the changes per the TSB, and I haven't had a problem since and I leave my lights on Auto.

Haven't had a problem since because it's sitting all comfy in that nice garage.

I just gave IAG a call and the builder is going to call me back and give me a quote.

I will feel around for a Subaru shop locally to see what they can do, I will check with Revworks as well, thanks.

I'm also going to look into getting the case halfs and build it myself.

Haha, I thought things were moving smoothly and now I feel a little behind in my progress.

You could PM Fahr-side, he would know for sure, my guess is the outlet is unique to our model as is the turbine housing inlet/outlet.

 

You could use the fact Socal declined to help you, if it was easy to modify they would have jumped at the chance to gouge you over an easy modification.

 

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That sounds good, he just keeps hounding me about it and that should stop it. I just need to show him the other options aren't as good and I'm sticking with my plan. He's an old school wrench and has a large opinion, so...

I'm a 40+ year old man, you wouldn't think I would have to deal with parental figures like this still, but here I am.

Ok, I'm just saying, certain things I would not skimp on. That turbo is one. BNR is very reputable and proven - Otherwise just keep the stocker and tune the car to the best it can do with all the other support parts. Your ride is going to be down - send the turbo. God forbid somebody else does a half ass job and the blades get brought into your nice sexy block. IMHO.

I totally agree, I kept telling him that if three was a turbine and housing for $200 (he said he saw for my car?), I didn't want to risk having a casting/turbine go bad and ruin my day once again just to save a couple hundy!

I also have an email out to IAG about a stage 2 small block because I don't see one offered on their site specifically for the 5th gen.

FWIW, Socal indicated to me that they cannot help us out. "Unfortunately this is a RHF5 turbo and not like the RHF55 turbos we do these upgrades to. We really cant do anything to them other than a small drop in billet wheel and porting and polishing."

 

Pure Turbos is another option, and they were cheaper than BNR but (despite the warranty concerns) I simply trusted BNR more.

I did get the same return email from Socal just a few minutes ago.

I will look into the Pure Turbo as well, but expect the same outcome.

Is there any options with swapping out the whole turbine side for a new 18g? I have my step dad trying to tell me I can do it cheaper, but I'm not so sure and not smart enough right now to refute it with facts.

Thanks for the help!

Thanks Sarang!

I just dropped them an email and we will see what happens.

Their prices look great on the site. Now, I just hope they can actually do it and get it back to me in a couple/few weeks.

Just checking to see if there's a cheaper way to build the V54 to an 18g.

I will look into some 750-850cc injectors and run the stock fuel pump till it dies.

Here's a pic of the ole girl leaving the house, finally and a couple of the arrival at the spa for a little love. I don't have the space to do it at home and can't leave it at work (where I have a lift and all my tools) for more than a weekend, so to my step dad's it goes. He has a nice 4 post lift that will make things a little easier. That means it will take a little longer to get it done because he's an hour away, but I'm sending the turbo out and other things that will take time anyway, so whatever.

I'm just happy to be getting things rolling. Next weekend we'll pull the motor and I'll take the turbo with me.

A couple quick questions.

Is the BNR 18g turbo build the only option for turbos for the 5th gen? Is there a DIY turbo upgrade option for the V54 to 18g?

What size are the stock fuel injectors (couldn't find it through the search)? If I go with the 18g do I need upgraded injectors/fuel pump to feed it?

Money, money, money...

I bought the eibach springs back in December and kyb struts and mounts today. Anything else I should do to get the best out of the springs ?

Install them on the car...

Ej25 doesn't have either of those. Lobes from the cam ride on the buckets to open the valves. Definitely want to double check your clearance when you torque everything back down and you may need to replace buckets to get the right clearance.

Thanks!

Yeah, when I looked up lifters it came up with the blocks/buckets and I was wondering if they wear much normally. I guess with having 130,000 miles, there might be a chance they have some wear.

On another note, I'm getting sick of the snow and cold!

Alright, I have a Uhaul car carrier(flatbed)/pickup truck set to go for this Saturday. I will be hauling the ole girl to my mom/step dads to get this fun started.

Islandborn (or anyone with experience) how did your rockers and lifters look when you did your rebuilds? Need to replace any/all?

Alright, I have had a heck of a time trying to get the NASIOC website to work for me. I finally found that Google Chrome works and nothing else I found does.

I have enough posts to put up a WTB for the Sti cams.

Can I use any year Sti cams or do I need 2008+ cams?

Also, I remember reading that the clutch fork is a weak point, so I would like to change that out while I'm in there. Anyone have a link to the upgraded fork?

Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it! I have fixed plenty of vehicles over the years, but never built one, so the help is very welcomed with this unique beast.

STi cams.... Are they worth it? Well, if you are going with a full build - why not. They can only help. They wont hurt. It would not affect "longevity". All they really do is allow the engine to open up a bit more and hold on a bit longer. However, if you don't, you prob will be forever kicking yourself. Now, its not worth it in the sense of if you were only doing that mod. Meaning that the gains would not be "worth it" based on the cost and labor of the part alone plus a new tune. That would prob run about $1500-$2000 - for a bit of a stronger top end? nope.

Haha, thanks, that was just the kind of enabling arm twisting I needed.

Another thought... you said you were not going to do the heads. IAG did mine. Apparently, mine were the first they ever really did in shop - so they now have experience! lol. Heck, you might even chat with them about putting it all together in a sense and send it all to you in one box.

I was thinking I should talk to them as well. Thanks again!

I think I paid less than $100 for my STI cams/springs... So, the parts cost is relatively low.

Where did you find them for that price... ebay?

Not sure if you're looking for someone to do this work, but I've heard good things about this place if you are: http://quantum-performance.com

 

All Subarus pictured on their homepage.

 

They're a couple hours from Madison near Port Washington, but if you need the job done right, you might have to look around.

Thanks for the link! I will look at the eye candy they have there.

My step dad has a 4 post lift in his big garage and has many years experience with Subies. He is in Waukesha too. I have a lift in town too, but can't leave my car on it for that long, so it will go to his house for a month or so.

I had mine built by AWDTuning. They too sell Stage 1 and Stage 2 Blocks (mine is their base Stage 2) They built the whole thing - we had many conversations about what goes where and what is needed. I drive it daily (30k/year) so I didn't want anything "rough". The injectors and pump had to be upgraded because I run corn. 1000s are perfect. I am looking to switch into an AEM pump tho... DW has started to drop in reputation - first their injectors, now their pumps. Mine is fine so far, but I have 120K on it so its getting time to switch it out. There is a great DIY thread here that I followed to swap out the pumps. Pretty cool and easy. If you will stay with normal gas - stockers are fine....but it doesn't hurt to upgrade them - easy plug and play. The valves were upgraded simply for the power. Stock water pump.

This can get all out of hand if you aren't careful. What you want vs what you need can be tough. To give you an idea - my whole build - engine, custom FMIC, custom TM oil cooler, clutch, and tunes put me upwards of about $15k. An engine build alone will run about $8-9k. Thats new short block engine ($3k), all the little adds, and the swap out labor. Tunes run about $500 per tune as well - 4 hours work.

Now all of this is by a top notch crew. You of course can save a lot by knowledgeable friends and access to a shop - which I did not have.

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Thanks island, I appreciate the conversation and knowledge on the subject!

I will be doing all the labor (aside from the heads) my self, so I will save a little cash with that.

I think I'm going to go with the stage 2 IAG block and go from there. I would like to keep the engine around the $6,000-7,000 range. I won't count the down pipe and sway bar bits in my engine build, so that will help a bit with the bottom line.

The one thing I'm unsure of is if the Sti cams are worth the $800 buy in? I hear people say it helps with mid range power, but how much and does it provide any more longevity to the engine?

Here's what they put in mine - for ideas.

 

JE Forged Pistons

King Bearings

Manley H-Tuff Rods w/ARP 2000 Rod bolts

2012 STi Crankshaft

IAG Machined heads

JE Headgaskets

NGK Iridium One Step Colder 2309 Spark plugs

GSC P-D Intake/Exhaust Valves 33mm (+1mm)

Gates Timing belt kit w/water pump

ARP Head Stud kit

2012 Sti Cams

11mm Sti Oil Pump

Injector Dynamics 1000 fuel injectors

IAG Billet Aluminum CNC Top Feed TGV Deletes

Thanks islandborn!!

Did you upgrade the injectors for corn?

Did you need to upgrade the valves to compensate for the Sti cams?

Ugh, I forgot about the TGV deletes...

Did you get the IAG stage 2 block?

Is it just a stock water pump or an Sti pump?

Sorry you had such a bad experience. With your car, you were just set up to fail. With an owner who didn't change the timing belt and have it break, who knows what happened after that, not to mention "the kid" you bought it from?

I appreciate it! I knew this was a crap shoot with the prior issues, but there aren't too many around and I got it for $8,500. I figure I will have a similar amount of money into it that I would have if I had gotten a nice stock GT from the get go. Plus, this way I get it built more the way I want it and it will be new enough that I can have fun with the gas pedal and not worry so much about things.

I tend to try and look at the bright side.

Thanks Man!

That was my next step, to call the parts guy tomorrow and find a couple things out.

I guess that would make me lean back towards the IAG build. You know of a good place to get the Sti cams from? Do I just go with any 2008+ Sti cams?

FLlegacy, this is the list I got from you in the other thread, I'm going to look up prices tomorrow. Anything else to add to the list?

Edit, I added to the list:)

ARP studs - $200

STI cams - $165

Sti valve spring kit - $250

Sti valves +1mm - $80

STI oil pump - $150

Felpro Gasket set - ~$200

oem timing belt set - $300

Stock Legacy GT water pump - $100

IAG stage 2 with the seal kit - $3306

BNR 18g turbo - $950

Fuel injectors -

Machining work...?

Stuff I want to add not counted in the rebuild price.:

Invidia down pipe - $600

Bigger front sway bar (while I have the engine out) - $100

So, the ole girl pooped the bed last Friday night on the way home from work...

It had been starting to idle real low upon clutch in and then finally dying on clutch in. I think the wrist pin got loose enough to cause drag on the piston. It's not locked up yet, but isn't drivewble anymore. It was getting way too hard to stay out of boost anyway.

It was on a really cold night and people seemed to want to honk and flip me off instead of helping, while I pushed my car by myself down a busy 3 lane road.

I've only had it for 9 months too...

Now I'm looking for a beater with a heater to get through the winter and gather my parts for the mild build.

I started a thread on building an engine on a budget, but will just continue the conversation here.

Here is said thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/would-you-spend-moneyi-277451.html

I like the idea of a 2019 sti shortblock and then adding the sti cams and upgraded head studs. Maybe it would save a couple bucks here to spend there...?

Anyone direct me to a thread that list parts needed to do this kind of swap?

What's the difference between the 2019 sti shorty and the IAG built stage 2 shorty?