stewdogg

More talk with the shop. They are telling me that it is waste of money to drop a HTA68/TD05 + E85 because it will blow my engine.

Is that going on your stock block with however many miles? If so, I could see it stressing things out a bit.

There are aftermarket sets that are cheaper than the STI oem ones. I plan on using the BC ones myself when I do the STI cams. I think amazon has the set for like $80.

Do you have a link to the springs you were looking at on amazon?

Edit:

I found theses... https://www.amazon.com/Brian-Crower-BC1600-EJ205-WRX-EJ257-STi/dp/B000HKX0S2/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=Brian+Crower+subaru&qid=1553089982&s=automotive&sr=1-17

Would I need to get new retainers with the springs? The STi and LGT have different part numbers for the retainers too. Not sure what the difference would be between them.

You are correct, the springs are different and the valves themselves are the same... must have read it wrong late last night. It's been a lot of late night part numbers lately.

I wonder if I should go stock STi valve springs or go with the Brian Cower springs for my spring upgrade? Sticking with stock valves and hoping for between 320-400 HP.

The STi/LGT share part numbers for lifters and springs too.

I will take side by side pics of the cams this weekend, after I take them out.

So, is this the slot you are/were talking about?

This is a pic of a 2011 STi stock cam.

I did a little searching last night and it seems that is the popular one.

I looked up the part number FJK1001-HD-O and I found SD-FJK1001-HD-O on THMotorsports, I don't know the difference with the SD in front. I can't find anything on the Southbend website with the SD in the part number.

I'll call Southbend or THMorotsprots today to get to the bottom of it.

Edit: The "SD" is only the friction plate.

What's the go to or reliable stage 2 clutch for the LGT?

I think I'm going to have issues quickly if I don't address it now. Looks like I'm going all in much earlier than I thought I would have to with this car.

Upgrades before the engine failure:

GVB BPV

EBCS

Cobb AP

New upgrades with rebuild:

Quantum Performance Stage 2 block

Upgraded HTA71 turbo

2011 Sti cams

One step up valve springs - sticking with stock valves (not going 1mm over) to save a little cash on machining.

ID1050X injectors

Cobb Flex fuel

Invidia down pipe with high flow cat

ARP head studs

11mm STi oil pump

I will need to find a solution to my intercooler before I'm finished with the 1,000 mile break in as well. I imagine it wont last long with the higher boost levels.

That sucks about your clutch fork taking stuff out! I'll look for your thread, it would be interesting to see. I will be replacing mine with the upgraded fork and pivot, I've read too many horror stories about it around here.

I got the turbo cleaned up, all the lines, studs and oil tank removed. It's packed up and ready to head out tomorrow for the spa treatment at BNR.

I just talked to BNR on the phone and asked which turbo to use for flex fuel applications (18G or HTA68) and he said to use the HTA68, but that has been discontinued and he would then use a HTA71. He said it should spool just fine on gas and handle the 25-29lbs of boost with E85. It is still the extra couple hundred bucks over the 18G.

I will be pulling lines, cleaning and shipping my turbo out this week.

Broken bolts make the job so much worse. I was very lucky that I didn't run into any.

I just ordered a Primitive skid plate... finally.

Trans bolts may have not been crossthreaded. I had a simmilar issue with mine. Theres something with those bolts in particular the top ones. A section of threads literally came out of the block and it took a breaker bar with pipe extension to even break them free. I had to use thread savers and new bolts putting it back together.... Wasn't happy about it at all but had no choice. Of course a 2nd hand trans could of lead to cross threads but just thought I'd share my. I concluded theres a heat issue on the top passenger side because thats where my most problematic bolt was.

That sucks! I'm sure the aluminum didn't help your situation at all either. That stuff really likes to corrode and mess stuff up. Those thread savers are a huge help (if you have the room) and much better than using a die set (in my opinion).

What did you have yours out for?

Mine was nuts on the two studs on the bottom of the trans and they most definitely were cross threaded. They were brutal all the way off and you could see the mushed threads on the stud itself.

Thanks, no need to apologize (to me) for anything when your trying to help!

I went to Fl4tfest last year for the first time and it was pretty fun.

Thanks for the heads up on the Madison Subaru Club and the 608 Subies!

Do you have a Subie at all anymore or go to any of the meet ups?

Oh yeah, I did notice that this car had another surprise, looks like a junkyard transmission was put in the car with 8,000 miles on it. I suspect that's where the cross threaded studs on the transmission came from.

This car was really through the ringer before I got it.

So things went as good as I could ask them to go today.

I did find some funky stuff from the last mechanic(s). There was a couple cross threaded studs on the trans and there was a couple wire harnesses that had broken latches and for some stupid freakin reason they put black gasket maker or a sealer of some kind to glue them together. That was a pain to deal with and now I need to get some more pigtails to solder on to make it easier on the next guy.

We got the engine out in 6 hours and I got the turbo pulled, so I can ship it off to BNR this week. On schedule so far.

Fun fact:

I didn't break any of the 10mm bolts on the exhaust manifold heat shield... top or bottom and they looked real rough. I feel I have never gotten that lucky. The turbo bolts came out nicely as well, although they are beat and I need new ones.

The front of the sub frame is rusted, so I'm going to wire wheel it and cover it with paint to try and buy some time.

Here's a couple progress pics.

Here's the pic of that cam, FLlegacy.

I couldn't figure out how to put it in a PM.

Edit: This is a pic of the rear right side of the intake cam from a 2011 Sti that I will be putting in my stock heads.

Damn man, that really sucks. It sucks no matter what, but at that mileage, it brutally sucks!!!!

I wonder if you talk to Subaru if they would help you out in any way?

Nope, going for the HTA68/TD05 since I'll be running E85. Likely blow off my head gaskets in the next year or two....

 

If I was running 93, I would go with the 18g.

What if you were going to run flex fuel and use both 91/E85?

Bahhh, my heads gonna explode.

It all started with finding new fuel injectors and led to this:

I hadn't even thought of the flex fuel option. I did a little searching and noticed a couple people have used it on the 5th gens. How is it holding up and working for those of you who have had it for a while now?

It's one of those things that would be better to invest in now, if I'm going to do it anyway because I would have to pay for an extra tune again and that's an extra $600 I could use for tires...

I also saw that a couple places other than Cobb make an option for it, but do I have to use the Cobb set up to work with my AP?

Man, if you read through this thread it takes me a painful amount of time to come to the conclusion you all knew all along... pay to play and HP/TQ is like crack. I keep adding up the budget and then throwing that crap in the air. Might as well do it right and enjoy it rather than having a little regret that I left something on the table.

I'm in Madison, but my LGT is sitting in Waukesha at my parents house. I will be going out this weekend to pull the engine and start the build. I was hoping not to do the build for a couple years, but that's the way chasing the boost goes.

There really should be a Legacy/LGT Midwest or Wi meet... maybe there is and I just don't know about it.

FWIW, I talked to Brian at BNR a couple weeks ago, and he said he could do a HTA68. My spare turbo has been with him a for a few weeks now.... I'm in no hurry as MN is still buried in snow....

Is your turbo getting the 18g treatment at the spa?

Hey guys I am seriously considering upgrading my turbo and I'd like your input on which to go with. In particular, I am interested in spool and power increase over stock on my ACN91.

 

I am upgrading my cams, although I have not decided yet on GSC S1 or just STI exhaust cams.

 

BNR offers an 18g, 20g and HTA71. There are also several 20g options on ebay, but I would be more confident in BNR.

 

Spool characteristics:

Stock: 15PSI @ ~2700 - 3000 rpm (lots of dynos)

18g: 15PSI @ ~3000 rpm

20g: 15PSI @ ~3400 or ~3000 rpm (two different dynos, both 93)

HTA71: no info found, but one HTA68 15PSI @ ~3100 rpm

 

Does anyone have any more info on spool for the upgrade options?

 

If the HTA71 spools similar to the 18g, but has more flow potential than the 20g (with upgraded cams), then it's the clear winner... right?

 

I'd really appreciate any input. I would hate to spend this kind of money and later find out I missed something.

 

Thanks!

I'll be sending mine off to BNR next week, so hurry up and find out...

I will be interested in the info on this as well. Thanks for doing the leg work!

What's the benefit to bigger intake/exhaust valves?

Is there a reason to do both on the LGT?

Quicker turbo spool if done on the exhaust side or something?

I could keep my car from registering knock on my AP if I kept the knock quiet enough. It would knock all the time towards the end and if I stayed out of boost, kept the RPM's way low (read as barely drove the car and shifted around 2500k) it would't register knock/fine knock. I could get the DAM back to 1.00 if I was real careful too, but ultimately I would get into boost or need an upper RPM and the DAM would drop again.

The knock sensor seems pretty sensitive, but doesn't catch all noises under the hood.

Does it make any noise at start up?

My wrist pin/piston slap noise was around 2500RPM and at start up for a second or two.