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stewdogg

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Posts posted by stewdogg

  1. What cover are you planing on using? I have been thinking about doing this also since I have not been liking the slick factory wheel.

     

    I went with this one from ebay…

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-made-PU-Leather-Steering-Wheel-Cover-Stitch-on-Wrap-For-Subaru-Outback/162782008506?hash=item25e69054ba:g:45QAAOSwvfZaIEc4

    I chose that one because it had a little bit of customizability. I went with blue stitching and a mix of smooth and perforated leather for the pattern.

     

    I paid $41 shipped when I got mine and now the appear to be $50. I'm sure you could find the same thing cheaper if you look enough.

  2. I finally got this delivered.

     

    IMG_8001.thumb.jpg.cb30210c8f15be5a232b961a78be27c4.jpg

     

    I think it looks great in blue and will look great with all the blue in my engine bay. It's starting to get a little crowded in there with all the extra piping and extra bits for this build.

     

    Now, I have to figure out how to install this little beast and where to mount it amongst the crowd.:)

     

    I have a growing list of things to get done before spring:

     

    1 Install AOS.

    2 Wrap steering wheel.

    3 fix the bit of rust on the trunk and driver's side door.

    4 Install grill mesh.

    5 Rear sway bar

    6 New wheels/tires.

    7 Install VEMS EJ cooling balance kit.

    8 ...

  3. I had a local place build it for me. I haven't built one before, I figured they have better options for better fitting bearings and the experience of prior builds. It wasn't cheap, but has been great so far.

     

    They started with OEM case halves. The LGT cases have a different bolt pattern for the oil baffle that the oil pan connects to. That's really about all there is different with our blocks compared to the others.

     

    Here's my block build sheet, gives the example of a possible price as well... ouch.:)

    IMG_6751.thumb.jpg.df10c7fa9c9f6cf1eb5d9f977d138613.jpg

     

    Oh yeah, I upgraded my valve springs to the Brian Cower spring set, forgot that one on the list previously.

  4. Sorry to hear of your possible bad luck with the car. Although, you made it a lot further than a lot of the 5th gen GT's I have seen around here before a build.

     

    I ended up diving all in recently and went with most all the upgrades in my build... New Stage 2 block, HTA71 turbo, flex fuel, upgraded injectors/fuel pump, Invidia down pipe, AWIC, TGV delete, 2011 STI cams, ARP head studs, 1.0mm Tomei head gaskets, South Bend stage 2 daily clutch, Verus billet clutch fork and pivot ball, PDM TSK3 throw out bearing and sleeve, AFR sensor and maybe some other stuff I'm forgetting right now.

    There was a bunch of other small things and all the orings and seals eventually ended up coming from Subaru.

     

    I got the car back together and the Felpro cam seals were leaking. All 4 were leaking. I put the Subaru ones in and all good.

     

    How long/bad did your car overheat?

  5. I'm trying to figure out if I can use a wideband in place of the factory upstream. In theory I should but its a learn as I go thing. In the accesstuner softerware I can change front upstream current to afr calibration. The sensor has a volt to afr chart provided in the online manual. So assuming its using a 5v ref I should be able to use that chart and ohm's law to calculate the amperage and be able to use the wideband for both closed and open loop operation and not for just tuning purposes. Then I can log data just like I am now and the car will have a more accurate sensor for all operations. I was just curious if that's what dave is doing, I had no idea he would tune your car with logs and video recordings. He's a pro though, im not.

     

    I think you're on point with this thinking.

     

     

    Well, we got some decent rain to wash the salt into the lakes and off the road again. That means I got to take the ole girl outta the garage and rip her to work. I'm going to wash it tomorrow and fill the tank up, just in case we get some snow next week that blocks her in the garage again.

     

    I miss the GT already, the 2007 Legacy just doesn't compare on any level.

     

    A little night time fall goodness with the GT.

    IMG_7816.thumb.jpg.73f1f42e7ed0620be330e2cbccfd80d0.jpg

     

    IMG_7819.thumb.jpg.cdafdf7c2302ad6a6c86db15ed15965f.jpg

     

    It also reminded me that I have to test for a boost leak. I get a tid bit of knock just as boost hits, but goes away completely when the boost builds just a little.

     

    I hope it's not the plastic flange from the stock boost pipe I used. If it is, I will have to have a custom flange made up and just run good ole silicone hose to make a charge pipe... I guess what I have now with a custom aluminum (?) flange.

  6. did the sensor just plug into the factory harness or did you have to add some wiring? did the sensor come with current(ma) to AFR calibration info? Ive been tuning my car myself and im learning as I go. I know im too rich by the soot on my bumper but i'd like to get a wide band before I start leaning out. thanks for sharing

     

    The way I hooked the wideband up... provided wideband O2sensor installed in the rear existing bung, wires passed through firewall to the AEM gauge, AEM gauge hooked up to power/ground and that is all. If you do it this way everything you need is provided in the kit.

     

    There is a way to hook it up using a jumper wire/connector to the O2sensor hook up for the cars computer, but I was already using that for my flex fuel set up and having issues gettin it to work properly. I gave up and just got to tuning via video recording the wideband gauge while doing the pulls.

    If you go this route, you just need to splice some wire and a connector into the wire loom from the wideband kit. Run that to the stock O2 sensor plug on the car and then you should be able to monitor the wideband in your logs.

  7. IAG makes a good aos, but its pricey. There is also crawford. Again pricey.

     

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

     

    I emailed IAG about an AOS and they said they didn't make one for the 5th gen LGT and couldn't support it.

    I will have to spend a little time searching the forum to figure out which one to get for my car.

     

    You parked your car for the winter huh? Ive been looking forward to the wideband install write up. did you add a bung or just used oe up stream bung?

     

    Yeah, I picked up a 2007 Legacy while I was doing my build to get to work and stuff. So, I figured why not keep it around and go easy on salting the LGT for a couple years. It sucks, but it will be extra great when I get to pull it out again next year... :icon_frow

     

     

     

    This is the way I hooked up my wideband... nothing too special, but it's what I did.

     

    Yes, I did just use the existing upstream bung and had Dave (Cryo tuning) tune it out of the system.

     

    I neatly zip tied all the wiring up to the rubber boot for the wiring loom in the firewall. Cut a slit for the wires to go through that rubber boot and I was in.

    IMG_7799.thumb.jpg.54cfe24ff40262bd66d0ac55a818339a.jpg

     

    I ran the wiring behind the plastic kick panel in the driver side foot well. I pulled the power for the gauge from the cig lighter in the stash pocket (the lighter in the pic below) and ran the ground to the bolt for the metal bracing for the counsel.

     

    I pulled the wires through a hole I cut in the rubber pad in the stash pocket.

    IMG_7802.thumb.jpg.779ce760f5bb79f4e9217f8814f669cc.jpg

     

    Then I mounted the gauge in the stash pocket, so it would be easier to use the camera and get the proper info for Dave, while I'm doing the pulls.

    IMG_7801.thumb.jpg.27495b8fa5456fe6c3196adb52b2a487.jpg

     

    I did custom make the mount for the gauge in the car.

    I had some thin aluminum that I cut the mount from and then covered it with some black vinyl, to make it disappear a bit more. I will end up moving the mount around the gauge cluster somewhere, so I can see it better while driving. It's held in place with some good ole double sided tape.

     

    I thought I took some pics while I was making it, but I guess I didn't because I can't find them. If anyone wants pics of it, I can take it apart and get some pics. It was pretty easy to make and turned out pretty nice.

  8. Have you considered the extra blowby from a fresh block? Might just need an aos.

     

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

     

    I was thinking about the AOS as well, but figured that the synthetic oil might be the cause. I got some time now, so I think I will install one just to be on the safer side.

    Any suggestions on a thread to read or a recommended AOS?

     

    What is your EBCS setup like?

     

    I have the GrimmSpeed EBCS and it's (now) rubber mounted to the front sub frame.

  9. Well, I ended up running out of time with the LGT this year...:( We have gotten snow twice and the salt is flying in Wi. I decided to put it away this winter in an attempt to slow the rot and preserve all... some of the money I put under the hood this year.

     

    Kinda bummed I didn't even get to finish the 91 tune let alone get to the corn. It's been a bunch of hurdles to get this far and I really wish I could have felt the full potential of my build this year.

     

    Between this and the actual build last year, Dave and I will be trying to tune this car for a year and a half, I hope it's not longer:). I sent the payment over to Cryo 8/28/18. Then things started to go south after a couple pulls, full build, issue, set back, issue, set back and then ran outta time/weather.

     

    The last pull I did looked like a possible boost leak with a loss of 2lbs of boost. I need to pressure test the turbo system and see if it's coming from there or somewhere else. I did switch to synthetic just a bit before that pull and after 4,000 miles on the new block. While looking for the boost leak I noticed there was some oil in the charge pipe. I think I will switch back to conventional oil for the start of next season and hope that the synthetic oil is the cause of the oil in the charge pipe and not my brand new rings or turbo seals...

     

    I painted my garage floor this fall and just finished the drywall on the ceiling of the garage two Sundays ago. I parked the LGT in the garage that Sunday night and it started snowing as soon as I got it in there. Lost about 4-5 weeks of fall this year... boo!!

  10. I have a random rhythmic ticking I have been trying to pinpoint for a while now, I would have never even thought to look at the solenoid. I am going to add a bushing to the mounting point, I bet that is exactly what it is.

     

    Certainly worth a try and the right price... free.

    I was quite crushed with the way it sounded, kinda like my bad wrist pin from last winter...

     

    This ticking noise was picked up by the knock sensor?

     

    Not picked up by the knock sensor at all, which made me scratch my head a bit. The boost controller was mounted pretty far from the mic, but had it been closer, I'm sure it would have set it off.

  11. Yeah, I think because I had it mounted to the frame it translated and amplified the sound of the solenoid click. I wouldn't have looked there first, based on just the sound alone. It really had an engine tick kind of quality to it.

    It certainly went away when I rubber mounted the boost controller and I couldn't be more relieved that it did!

     

    I got my revision 4 tune yesterday and the torque is starting to get there. Getting a little more pinned in the seat when it's pulling now. I hope to get another revision this week.

    We are going on a little trip this weekend and I get to do a couple of passes at Wildcat Mountain, should be fun.

  12. So, I had a little scare with some knocking happening with my car. It wasn't showing up on the AP, but was very audibly loud and concerning. I would get some knocking between 1.5-2k RPM's and I could get it to knock a bit with a blip of the throttle while in neutral. I was ready to throw the car off a cliff and start over.

     

    I talked to Dave at Cryo and he had a couple suggestions and one of them struck me. He told me to look at the EBCS, especially if I have it hard mounted to metal somewhere. I had mine bolted to the sub frame in the front of the car. The last time I did an oil change I zip tied it tighter to the frame because it was a little loose in the mount. I went home jamming some tunes and didn't notice it till a couple days later and was thinking the worst. I ended up rubber mounting the boost controller in the same place and everything is quiet again!!

    So, thanks to Dave for giving me some knowledge to get by this issue easily.

     

    I'm in my 3rd revision of the 91 tune with Cryo and hoping to get to the corn tune soon.

    That being said, does anyone know if the quality of the E85 changes for the winter and when that change would be normally?

  13. You forgot the vote part. Lol!

     

    Haha, guess I got a little excited and forgot the yays and nays...:)

     

    So if there are more brackets made, does that mean you want to do the same?

     

     

    I'm creeping on 400whp with my new set up and I imagine that means things will only continue to wear out, so I would like a solution to it before I get there.

    If they aren't too ridiculous of price, I would be in on a set of mounts too.

     

     

    When I first got to this place I wouldn't have imagined you all could enable me to this point with my car...;)

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