Max Capacity

Those flanges have been there how many years? There still about 3/8" thick. How many years or decades do you think it will take for rust to eat them away? Get over it. My rear wheel wells on my 86' Ford F150 have been rusting away for 10 plus years, and it's still fine.

Fredbeans.com like I think I said a page or so ago. Yep, here it is, http://www.fredbeansparts.com/servle...gacy-GT/Detail

^ Thanks, I stopped by my local machine shop. The guy's were impressed with the way the car sounded.

Has anybody had any problems driving the car like this in the Winter, snow and salt on the roads ? Can you see any problems ? I have about a 5/8" gap. Do most of my driving during the Winter.

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/servlet/the-1006/NGK-Subaru-Legacy-GT/Detail Is that the same plug as above ? Just ordered a set, under $40.00 shipped.

Here's mine. Two thick washers on all 4 bolts, for a 1/4" gap. I may add a 3rd washer this weekend. DSCN3575.flv video by 92Si - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid185.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN3575.flv@@AMEPARAM@@vid185@@AMEPARAM@@185@@AMEPARAM@@x40/92Si/DSCN3575

I have noticed the same affect. Dash is saying 20.1 mpg for the past 60 miles. Damn it sounds to good. mendozer, do both sides. Balance of the exhaust signal. May be it doesn't matter with a Y pipe, but balance is key in a lot of things.

Did this this morning. A little WD40 or PB Blaster, I used my big a** impact gun, 14mm socket and 14mm box end wrench. I did run the bolts out a bit and then spray them again and run them in/out. Sounds nice. I used two fat washers for spacing. Put anti-seize compound on the nuts and bolts when I put it back together. Should have done this 75 pages ago

So, we're talking about removing the 2 bolts (each) where the mufflers meet the Y pipe ? Or the 2 bolts behind the last Cat ?

Here's my thread from last Sept. check post #26 for photo's. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94193

Mine squeel's I guess most of the time. Been doing it for a long time. Clutch still grabs fine.

Almost 99,000 miles. I still use the cheapest 5W30 oil I can find that meets the SAE spec. Well ok, I did pay $12.00 for a 5qt bottle of Pennzoil Highmilage the other day. There was something for $10.99 but I said, what heck, I'll buy the good stuff this time. Walmart has the best prices. I'm thinking about using there oil soon.

Yep, it pay's the have a great tool box, and be good at problem solving. I'll post another trick about oil filters i figured out last night. Couldn't get the filter loose on a car. not mine, that some oil change place put on. My son tried with a strap wrench and the filter began to crush. I tried the metal wrench and couldn't get it to go small enough. I have a number of wrenches, nothing seemed to work. I knew I had to make the filter bigger or wrench smaller. I found a spare silicone Vibrant coupler on the shelf. I slipped it over the filter, put the wrench on and thought the wrench slipped it was so easy. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN0236.jpg

The manual say's 105,000 miles, replace the timing belt. May be they are thinking km.

I have Cobb AP stage 1 since about 7,000 miles. It does not effect the OEM timing belt wait until 105,000 or some where close.

If you have decent tools and a way to lock the drivers side cams it's fairly straight forward now that I have done it. The radiator and fans come out as a unit. The alternator and compressor belts are a piece of cake. The covers come off very easily the old tensioners are easy to remove. Water pump is easy but the hoses took a little planning, I slide the front clamp back got the hose to move, then removed the pump and held it out so I could remove the back hose. The installed the new one in reverse order.

69mph in cruise control, I have a spec 2+ with the LWFW and spend most of my time in cruise around that speed, I have no noise and vibrations at all. 25,000 miles on set up. A little chatter in traffic at times, but it's mainly because I have to feather the clutch. The noise at low rpm's in 4th gear and the like so because ofthe LWFW, it doesn't have enough mass to carry the car...Just down shift and be done with it. Nobody said there wasn't trade off. I would much rather have a stout clutch, over that weak thing Subaru calls a clutch.

I ended up not getting the Haynes book, the service manual is much better, http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ The two other belts were $21.00 at Advance. Everything came apart very easily I did spray the exterior bolts and nut's with WD40. But the engine stays so clean compared the the cars from the 70's. I also put anti-sieze on the external bolts before re-installing them. I would say $1,000. for this job for a stealership is a bit outrageous being as to they are "factory trained" they should have no problem doing this hole job in less then 4 hours. Find a local ASE shop and get a quote from them. I do get a good discount on the parts from Advance but still.

OK, Had it apart and the water pump installed in 3 hours. Now for the past 3 hours I've been trying to get the belt on. What's the secret? Just can't seem to get it on even with the tensioner and 2 of the pulleys loose. BTW that breaker bar on the ground trick for breaking the crank bolt loose worked really well. I have the timing marks all lined up but just can't get enough play in the belt. A buddy stopped by and we measured the old and new belts and the new one looks a touch longer... My son and his buddy's will be by later and another friend of mine tomorrow...worst case I'll load it on the open trailer and take it to my mechanic at the end of the street. I'll post pictures later. BTW the OEM belt on quick inspection looks great, no obvious cracks or wear. Edit 30 minutes later. Figured it out. Belts on. I'll explain later, No picture of that and I'm not taking it back off just for photo's Sorry... I'll rotate the crank 2 times by hand and make sure everything is good. Started right up took it for two test drives I'll check the coolant level again after I wash it. I'll be back... OK here we go. After pulling the bottom plastic cover I had to find the drain plug for the radiator, it's the phillips screw on the passenger side of radiator. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture059.jpg Here's what you see with the radiator removed. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture061.jpg Here's the 7/8 socket on the crank bolt, 1/2 breaker bar and pipe, I cranked the starter a bit and broke torque on crank bolt http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture062.jpg Covered the above with a board just in case... http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture063.jpg After removing the plastic covers here's the passenger side cam gears. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture064.jpg Here's the drivers side cam gears http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture066.jpg Used this 5mm allen wrench and 8mm deep socket and 3" extension to break the two belt guides loose. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture068.jpg Water pump removed http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture070.jpg Old water pump with thermostat, http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture071.jpg Torquing new water pump http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture073.jpg How I held the drivers side intake cam, also used a #10mm allen to move the drivers side exhaust cam as required. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture074.jpg New belt on, the trick I learned was to leave the belt off the bottom pulley towards the passenger side. After checking the timing marks I lifted the belt over that pulley rotated the crank one time and then pulled the tensioner lock pin. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture075.jpg Car in back yard after washing http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture077.jpg Had the water pump in and torqued well under 3 hours. It took me about 3 hours to figure out how to stop fighting myself trying to put the belt on the crank pulley and it's passenger side tensioner last. Fought with the belt until about 2PM then decided to eat something, PB&J. Went back out realized what I was doing. I was trying to fight the preload of #2 valve springs instead of using it to help. I took the belt off the passenger side gears and pulley, set the drivers side cam gears at TDC and put the belt on and the lower guide. Fed the belt on the WP and crank pulleys, made sure #1 cam gears were at TDC slipped belt over them while it was below that bottom pulley, then just picked the belt up and over the bottom pulley. Put the passenger side belt guide in and crank belt guide, set the .019 gap or close to .019 on the 3 belt guides tighten them, rotated the cranks shaft by hand with the crank bolt and 7/8 socket. When I was sure nothing was hitting, put the breaker bar and 7/8 socket on the crank bolt and gave it a wack with a hammer in the off direction to break it free with out rotating the crank backwards. Pulled the lock pin that came in the tensioner, put the covers back on and everything else. Another trick I just though of was to remove the water pump then pull the two hoses off that one side. You'll understand when you get there. I put them back on before I installed the water pump. I also put a light film of silicone sealant on the metal crush gasket for the water pump. It actually help to hold the gasket in place. Also had to put 3 washers on the bolt that hold the small pulley on, the new one was shorter inside. I think that's everything.

Kind of agree with you, but the thought is, as long as your in there, might as well replace it. It's kind of insurance, the OEM one will go before it's time to change the timing belt again. Same with the tensioners. Now if it were a Honda I'd leave it alone. We did replace the Honda water pump when we built the race engine at 216,000 miles. That engine made 735whp a few months back with the oem crankshaft and oil pump. But you right to ask the question, I'm still thinking about not replacing the water pump, but knowing my luck...

I believe he said something about having to order the OEM belt while we were talking about other things too. I have been buying my parts from this same guy for a few years. We have an account with this store. Even at that most of the aftermarket belts and hoses are as good if not better. Domestic guy's have been using Gates, TRW or other parts for decades.

On the way home I stopped by Advance Auto parts and ordered: Timing belt $59.51 Water pump $115.88 Timing belt component $170.44 Parts need to be ordered. I still need to get a Haynes book and anti freeze

casey jones and rubberman, Thanks for the tips. I'll order the parts later this week.

Thanks, Yes, I plan to pick up a Haynes soon also. I will check out something to lock the cams, I guess it's like the 5mm pins for a Honda B series cams. Thanks for that tip. Still open for more ideas.

I have 95,000 + miles on my 05 Legacy GT and winter is coming. I'll have 105,000 miles about Jan.I would like to do this myself. I have all the tools except for a lift and garage. Have a 40ft trailer the race car travels in with compressor and tools. Thinking about doing this in a month or so. So is it a straight forward as it looks? Remove the radiator loosen the belt tensioner remove those belts remove crankshaft pulley after setting to TDC remove timing belt covers loosen tensioner replace belt reverse order Anybody have any tips? Thanks