Max Capacity

If you ride on the back seat, while the drive is being driven, you can hear a lot from back there. Have someone drive the car around a flyover interchange on a highway, as the car's weight shifts going around the big curve you can hear the bearing sing if its going bad.

Yes, that worked for me. Seems that moist weather is what I found causes the issue.

Have you tried to do a ECU reset ? Disconnect the battery cable for 15 minutes. After you reconnect, turn the Key to "ON" for ten second before starting. Try that and see if it clears.

Yes, the diff falls forward on your jack, and the axles will pop out. No need to remove them from the hub. Also, make sure to remove the fill plug before you install the new diff. I learned the hard way. The PO, tighten the fill plug so tight, I had to remove the just installed used diff to remove the cover so a machine shop could get the fill plug out. Check the drain plug too.

Do not put a DMFW in. For the chatter, with engine running, put tranny in natural, side step the clutch, letting the pedal slam to the top. Side stepping is done by, sliding your left foot to the side as fast as you can, letting the pedal slam to the top. I found even the DMFW would do that if it was damp outside. Also I found with the Spec LWFW and first Spec 2+ clutch (June 2007) that would need to be side stepped, if I babied the clutch too much. In later years, the next 2+ was much better. The last Spec 2+ had a light pedal pressure on my left leg, almost like the stock clutch in my 09 Spec B.

Here's what I put in my 18' Outback 3.6R. You can also measure the space you have for a battery, then go to the store display of batteries, find the highest CCA battery that will fit in your space with posts in the correct spot. Buy that one. I'm sure I've posted this link before, but here it is again. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/gen5-replacing-the-original-battery-with-better.391217/page-112#post-6430377

Most auto parts stores will have connectors you can splice in. NAPA is my choice. If mice are a problem. go get some Tom Cat mode blocks, from any hardware store, I have them all around my property, sheds, basement, garage. inside my 86' F150 which sits outside. https://www.google.com/search?q=tom+cat+poison&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=Tom+Cat&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCggBEAAYsQMYgAQyCggAEAAYsQMYgAQyCggBEAAYsQMYgAQyBwgCEAAYgAQyBwgDEC4YgAQyBwgEEAAYgAQyBwgFEAAYgAQyCQgGEAAYChiABDIHCAcQABiABDIHCAgQABiABDIHCAkQABiABNIBCTY1ODhqMGoxNagCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Glad that was a easy fix.

Here's the inside. Be careful with the push buttons, when you open the display, the rubbers tend to fall out. My old eye's are not good at seeing what's wrong here ?

Yes it was from the junkyard. I do have the old one that came out of the wagon. So you're talking about those appox. 1/2" long in that are in that stand-off part of the display. I gather you removed that silver tape and popped the display open ?

Are you saying you re-flowed the solder on the plug in connector ? Because I have replaced the display and had the same issue. I did nothing to the connector.

Thanks for noticing, I have been in contact with them, giving them info on the car. I even got an email from someone that works at the Subaru factory where the car was built, back on June 6 2008.

Wow, that's a new one. First, I'd check the battery terminals and harness to the ALT. You might want to PM cardoc over on outback.org. You can get him from post #6 here, https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/evap-line-fuel-tank-repair.563007/#post-6428842

As said, sorry for your loss. Congrat's on the wedding.

Is that for the STI's which had dual AVCS ?

KZ, hears the cap on my 09 Spec B. Now on my 05 GT I had aftermarket caps, they came from NAPA, worked great. Seems there are only a few different caps pressures and they all fit most radiators. I also tended to replace the caps when the rubber seals got cracked, I never waited until I had issues. Cheap insurance. Now we know 2.5i have HG issues... I'm also thinking "Flaris" should start his own thread, so it's easier to find and help him.

Same type story with my Eley hose nozzle. My son bought me one with a few QD's years ago. The nozzle would not full shut off the water from dripping, last year. I called them, gave them my son's info. They sent me a new one, free. https://www.eleyhosereels.com/

Ok, I forgive you then. LOL. Hey, while on to products we like, I have a few of these products. They work great. https://locknlube.com/collections/holiday-gift-guide?utm_source=Klaviyo&utm_medium=campaign&utm_campaign=Holiday Hours 12%2F21&_kx=TxmQcmkPeqBcRTE33ktNNTbZi4gcmZzL8XJrA672FVg%3D.PgwiVU

Oh dear, I bought all of mine direct from Fumoto, support the company, not someone who wants to build another rocket for rich people.

Thanks, yes, if anyone has to replace the oil pan I'm sure there's a thread about it on here. For the newer guy's this was on my 2005 GT wagon.

Odd, I had no problem when putting the Fumoto valve on my GT wagon years ago. The car normally has the under engine cover installed. Seems the only installed picture in the car is from when the oil pan was leaking. FWIW, you can see a small hole about 2" up on the front corner of the pan. I also use gallon milk jugs with screw on tops as the catch container. I take the used oil to my local junkyard, where for free they take it, as they use it in their heating system.

You should be able to get your finger under the passenger side of the PS pump under that line on the side of the PS pump, and see if the U shaped seal is leaking...mine was once.

Or, does the noise stop when you push in the clutch pedal ?

I seem to recall the seal between the turbo and timc is the same as the T'stat gasket for a small block chevy. You can get one from any auto parts store. https://www.google.com/search?q=small+block+chevy+T+stat+gasket&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=small+block+chevy+T+stat+gasket&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigAdIBCjEyMjkyajBqMTWoAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Yep, those DWS's give great all round performance.