Brunzo

Installed soft close for 5th door.

Hi there. I have some knowledge regarding the steering wheel controls, as installed facelift steering wheel in my car. Attached wiring diagrams - self explaining how it works. As you see, hands-free support requires +1 additional wire from the roll connector to the HU and shares audio wires. So if you want controls with hands free support, just plug it in the roll connector. And move that additional wire from the dash handsfree switch to the roll connector.

Purchased facelift headunit. Installation will follow

Haven't posted here for a while...

Helped truck to get back on road:

Just noticed, US cars have 2-stage airbags, I believe clock spring may be different... Need to check it.

You can get this steering wheel on ebay, it's similar to what i have + purchase airbag with clock spring.

Hello everyone. This post is for those who would like to upgrade their steering wheels to newer version MY14. Disclaimer: My car is EU version Diesel, Manual transmission, please don't be confused with color cluster on the pictures since I went through this upgrade as well and this story is for steering wheel swap. I did it for my car, hopefully it may be same for US market (as I used US diagrams). You do it all on your own risk. My Old steering: Includes: 1. Audio controls 2. Handsfree controls 3. Standard Cruise 4. Color cluster controls. Does not include 1. No shift paddles (i have manual transmission) 2. No SI-Drive (diesel version did not come with it in MY10) 3. No adaptive cruise (it was not available in MY10) 4. No heating. My new steering wheel has: 1. Audio controls (functions as previously) 2. Adaptive cruise (use normal cruise as previously, additional button used for pad). 3. Si-Drive (use these for Audio source and pad controls). 4. Shift paddles (use it for pad volume controls) 5. Cluster controls (functions) It's full steering wheel except heating option. I have purchased New steering wheel long time ago on the junk yard when I was looking for some other parts for my car. It was pretty cheap, so I decided to buy it. This steering wheel did not have adaptive cruise switches, which i had to purchase later. The most expensive in this mod is the airbag price and it took a while for me to find one for appropriate price. First have to find parts: 1. MY14 Steering wheel (it may be with or without needed controls, as controls can be purchased separately according to your needs). 2. Airbag. 3. Clock spring 83196-FJ000 if you go complicated way (i checked for EU car, please double-check if it is also for US market). Important information regarding AUDIO controls: Facelift audio controls are 2 type: for normal headunit and for Navigation (look the same, different part numbers). Old controls and new controls have same circuit boards, but different resistance and jumper setup. You can strip your old control circuits with all wires from body and move it to new facelift body. Its the easy way to fix it. If you do not look for easy way out, you can resolder resistance: Old controls are similar to facelift normal headunit controls with difference in LED brightness which you can resolder. I add here the needed resistance ID (what is written on resistor) and resistance in kiloOhms. In brackets I show new facelift steering wheel resistance ID for reference purposes only). You need to remove resistors R1-R6 from new board and solder following resistance to Audio control switch: R1 = 392 or 3.9 kOhm (new FL 222) R2 = 622 or 6.2 kOhm (new FL 272) R3 = 392 or 3.9 kOhm (new FL 202) R4 = 622 or 6.2 kOhm (new FL 222) R5 = 622 or 6.2 kOhm (new FL 222) R6 = 682 or 6.8 kOhm (new FL 202) Legend (take first line for explanation): R1 - Resistor location on the board. 392 - Resistor nominal ID. First 2 digits is resistance, last digit is the quantity of decimal zeros. 392 = 3.90 kOhms. Number 392 should be written on needed resistor. If you are unsure, you may check it on your old board. (new 222) - is a new board original resistance 2.2 kOhms which has to be replaced (it is given for reference purposes only to spot it correctly). Picture of the board: Remaining resistors should stay as is as similar as circuit boards are same. If you have taken the facelift steering wheel from the car with Navigation device and you keep it with steering wheel - it will not work for your car. Facelift Navigation AUDIO controls is different from both old model and facelift normal headunit controls. Easier just to move circuits. I have actually installed later facelift navigation device and gone through resoldering of controls as well - but its off topic for this thread. Cruise control switch does not need soldering works, as it has same resistance (no matter of cruise type: normal or adaptive). If you've done easy board swap without soldering, then just connect the plug to old clock spring and you are done. If you add options which were not available in your old steering wheel (such as SI-DRIVE) then you have to change the clock spring. I have purchased my new clock spring on ALIEXPRESS (search for part number 83196-FJ000) as it was cheaper than used part on junk yard. Removed my old clock spring from car: Left side - new clock spring. Right side - old clock spring. Carefully remove steering wheel position sensor from old clock spring and install it to new clock spring: Clock spring shape is identical except of contacts count from both sides. Old clock spring has: 10 pins from driver side plug 16 pins from car side plug New clock spring has: 12 pins driver side plug 14 pins from car side plug. I'm not sure why pin q-ty is not equal on front and back. New steering wheel switch plugs in to driver side plug of new clock spring without any changes. All modifications will be done with the plug from car side. Picture of my old plug which goes to clock spring from car side: As you see Old plug has 16 pins, New plug should be 14. I was looking for a new plug type on junk yards for a while with no success and decided to modify my old plug. It's just enough to cut a pair of contacts from plug so it fits 14 pin connector, see picture of modified connector in new clock spring: Wiring of clock spring plug from driver side: Just repin it according to wire colors. For those who are interested in SI drive - you have to get Brown wire from your old si drive switch. Black-yellow wire is a ground wire, which you can connect to pin 6 of illumination ground. For those who are interested in color cluster controls, extend a wire from pin 13 to cluster plug pin 34. On picture cluster plug with a piece of wire on pin 34: New airbag simply clicks to the steering wheel so I suggest to inspect this mechanism before you click it, so you could know how to remove it again if you need changes. And don't click before you are absolutely sure that everything works fine. New steering wheel installed: I have installed adaptive cruise, si-drive controls and shift paddles because I need additional buttons for pad controls as I am integrating pad with a motorized screen frame from Audi A3. Please note, it will not add additional options to your car like adaptive cruise or si-drive and others if you don't have it. I use additional buttons functionality for other purposes to control motorized screen and pad. I hope this information may be useful for other crazy people like me.

My car has no SI-Drive feature, as it's diesel. But I have successfully upgraded steering wheel to newer version with full switches (it has si-drive controls), where Si-drive controls will be used for different purposes. I created a separate thread about steering wheel change on my car.

Hello everyone. For interior parts, if your car has beige interior, then the part numbers may have a different color code. Please check it in parts catalog. I posted "BLACK" parts as my interior is black ("VH" extension at the end of part number) . And my local dealer wasn't able to supply major of parts as well so I had to look for it elsewhere. I was also concerned with this pocket and had option to install Webasto autonomous heater timer there but decided to use it for a parking brake switch (as in facelift version), as old location is not convenient for me. This location can be also used for SI-DRIVE switch (if you don't have one) and it moved to the steering wheel control switches in facelift cars. I also posted a pic of my facelift steering wheel, is it worth a new DIY thread about it?

There is another thread about "color" cluster upgrades. My car also had that ugly cluster but I changed it. There is a thread about it.

Yes.

It's valid for EU market for sure. US market i dont know. I've started a new thread how i did it.

Hello, I've posted a pic of my recent interior upgrade (parking brake moved to seat heating switches as in MY13 EU version) and it raised questions how I did it. It looks as this now: Parking brake switch moved from here: to this location (this is standard place of MY13-14 cars in Europe, not sure about US market): Part numbers: 1. Parking brake switch — 83321AJ020 2. Bracket for Parking brake switch— 92133AJ060 Need to extend wiring from old place to new place, connect with PC pins (as I couldnt find original plug): Wiring of parking switch: Old model: New model: Parking brake switch wiring: old switch - 10pin new switch - 12pin Next will show wire code : old switch pin N --> new switch pin N WL (white-blue) : 7 --> 7 Gr (grey) : 4 --> 12 P (pink) : 3 --> 2 LY (Blue-Yellow) : 9 --> 1 Or (orange) : 1 --> 5 W (white) : 2 --> 6 V (violet) : 6 --> 8 BW (Black-white) : 8 --> 10 Who wants to change VDC switch to new version: 1 pin blue wire - 12v (interior light) 2 pin orange wire -to vdc 3 pin yellow wire - to vdc 4 pin white wire - ground (interior light) Old parking brake place change to new version: 1. Inner frame (new type) to accept new switches) — 83413AJ000VH 2. New VDC switch — 83002AJ020 3. Big dummy cover for upper row — 83005AJ000VH 4. Small dummy cover for old VDC switch place) — 83005AJ020VH Can keep old VDC switch and purchase big dummy covers only. But I wanted new model look, so I kept hill holder switch (it does not fit new frame), so I had to enlarge the hole for it: My car is MY10 diesel, as far as I saw in diagrams, US version never had parking brake switch in middle console (please correct me if I'm wrong), as I could not find it in US diagrams. So i made it for my EU car, and this manual should be valid for all EU cars for sure. It should also work with any legacy/outback (if your seat heater switch cover is empty and does not have si-drive).

I am in Europe, my car is diesel, my old cluster looked exactly the same as on this picture. I made a swap to newer "color" version last year. There was a thread about cluster upgrades on this forum, it contains details.

FL is Facelift, MY is Model Year. Facelift is MY12-MY14, my car is MY10. Continue with what I did (not really today, but not posted here yet): Moved Tweeters to door mirror trims: Installed midrange speakers to original tweeter place: Modified door card for midbass speaker: Made custom subwoofer box:

Front brake kit swap for larger 315mm rotors with bigger calipers is a must. Feel the difference:

Made facelift upgrades. FL Steering wheel: And FL parking brake

Started audio system preparation works. Roof is completed:

BBS RV772 forged R17 wheels from JDM Forester

I asked the guy, will share his contacts later to pm.

I haven't engineered the power supply myself. I just told how it should work and it's a black box for me. All I know it's based on Arduino which controls several RC DC DC converters. I went a long path with this power supply and paid a lot for it as did not know that Nexus 2013 car power supplies are manufactured by android enthusiasts for silly money.

Enkei Tuned by STI R18

My setup on my exLegacy: JDM frame Asus Nexus 2013 Wifi (battery removed) with external Power and Volume controls Running Timur's ROM USB hub powered OTG USB-Optical sound converter Custom power supply (with external MiFi Router charger algorythm) and custom powering (battery emulator), hot start within 7 hours after last ride, keeping power on for 14 seconds after ignition off (helpful to keep it working when car restarts).

Hello, I have successfully done the cluster swap to color version. My car is 2010 Legacy Diesel Manual transmission. I have purchased color (MY13) cluster from CVT (Automatic transmission), reprogrammed it to Manual transmission and modified cluster airbag curcuit to work properly with car airbag system. If there are any Diesel legacy/outback owners from Europe, I could help them with cluster swap. I could also help with petrol clusters, but it can't be done remotely.