Brunzo

Oh yes. Forgot to mention. A couple of weeks ago replaced passenger airbag and parking brake in terms of dealer recall.

I had Eng manual somewhere, it was for jdm and lhd market. I will look for it. This screen is for eu version, its in russian.

Roof rails removal is done from inside. There are 5 nuts on each side. Have to take ceiling off to access it.

Rain visors installed

Installed finally

Cant tell much about solvibg airbag light as i gave it to the engineer who made the airbag circuit modification and did not share the details with me. Regarding dump i replied to your pm.

I offered my old black genuine bezels in Falcor's thread, maybe you need it?

I purchased used set which is on the way to me now, hopefully can install this weekend.

in place of center dash speaker (i don't have it). I had also to modify interior air vent channels to free some space for moving frame.

I have my old parts collecting dust: the upper trim and the defective cup holder (it has a broken bracket for the insert and it doesn't hold well, i just used some paper layers to put it in between). I don't have the small insert. Surface needs wrapping as is wearing scratches. 20 USD for all + shipping cost (from Europe it may be around 30 with EMS) with no fitment guarantee If anyone is interested - i can do pics.

I started motorized Audi A3 frame integration to my Legacy, but too lazy to finish it

I think its broken wire from your hood opener switch. Its visible on your picture right next to the headlight bracket.

I had sti genome and hks silent hipower on my previous b13. Hks i liked the most. It was not that expensive. I advise to change with middle section.

How much does the steering wheel uphostery work cost in US? I wrap mine with real leather for 70 usd.

Frankly speaking this steering wheel looks like half pumped bicycle tube.

A piece of STI

https://www.jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1990-1994/ https://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ I would start from your aftermarket headunit.

For the last 2 weeks the car was given for following maintenance works. - valve cover gasket leaking, valve adjustment works, gaskets replacement - fuel injectors condition check - glow plugs replacement - clutch kit replacement - flywheel replacement - turbocharger replacement - new chip tuning and some other gaskets, seals and other parts. Paid ~ 2k USD for everything and "made my car great again!" ©

shouldn't it be directed a little up to the ears level? And it needs some smooth fiberglass putty work. I have noticed another problem with your car - door open inner handles - these go way too deep inside the body. It can be adjusted just with the screw (you have to add it to the handle mounting place from inner side of the door card) - which will limit the handle going deep inside. See pic: There is a black plastic rubber distance piece installed to the card and it touches the moving handle body. This rubber piece can be replaced with the screw with flat head and the height adjusted by screwing it back and forth until you straighten the handle location.

yes, you are right, sorry forgot about it - this one uses mini-USB wire - 5volts. power supply like this

Very good. I think your "other mods below" are useless, as pointer uses one movement algorithm no matter of Miles or Kilometers, as US speedometer dial has both on it (Miles big digits, kilometers - small digits) and these are shown as one next to the other. I think you could just accidentally use a piece of JDM cluster dump with maximum 180km/h on the dial which made your pointer move faster than it should. So IMHO - you shouldn't be doing this change at all, as your speedometer had to show the speed correctly without any dump changes. The only reason for speed pointer algorithm change (IMHO) is when you use cluster from a different car with different tire size, as for example in my case: it was around 10km/h difference as my new facelift cluster is from Outback but i have legacy - tire size difference caused this gap and I had to adjust the pointer to move a little slower as it should +3km/h to GPS measurements. Anyway - all works for you fine now. Very good. You are welcome.

It should be powered with same wire as cam (added later: via 12v to 5v micro USB power converter) - as it should work same time when cam is on. You can locate it in trunk lid and power from reverse light or you can put it next to your headunit video input. It doesnt matter.

These alpine amps are pretty small, it uses original floor. You can also use rear side arch for amplifier and another side for stealth subwoofer. Perhaps you could try a place under the seat asyou wanted

I have the one with integrated G sensor, but it doesn't seem to be very useful, as lines are in the center, but my cam is installed in the left side of the trunk and it doesn't point to be correct trajectory. Better to use standard navi static lines - these are at least configurable.