KZJonny

One of those palces where buying known/name brand stuff pays off I guess... All my intake junk happens to be Perrin, but that was the first thing I found lightly used and cheap. Mishimoto is also good. Everything else is Grimmspeed, which on the level of casual observation is even nicer than the Perrin, but on the other hand, it all functions well. So, hard to complain there. MAY be worth noting that Perrin makes a turbo intake (of course) but also a pipe that call the "Afta-MAF" to come out the airbox and joing the inlet. A short peice of aluminum pipe is supplied to join the two, just as you suggested. It's not like intake sees meaningful vacuum, so that would be totally fine if you went the route. I can also attest that the 340 LPH pump is juuust fine on a more or less stock system. I installed an AEM 340 on the advice of my tunrer + an STi fuel pressure regulator to get rid of the monstrous double-dampered stock LGT one, and threw a 10 micron filter and pressure gauge in line as well. Pressures are good, and the return system does it's job nicely. I can post up a photo later, but there are a thread or two on the subject alread. Worth remembering that the fuel pump voltage is stepped by the fuel pump controller as needed: 33/66/100% So, having a slightly larger pump doesn't mean that your running too much fuel all the time and heating it up. The pump supplies fuel based on demand.

Sorry, I realize I wasnt being clear. I meant the bolt pattern on the other side of the hub/dust sheild. The two hubs look similar from the photos on Rockauto, but there is just enough of a difference in shape that the bolt holes for the fasteners between the knuckles and the hubs might not be in the same places. This should presumably be an easy fix provided they're not out by a mile. It's thin metal and should be easy to widen the holes to accomodate. The STi rotors are bigger, so yeah, presumably the sheils would be too, by a little, but they aren't enormously bigger, and I really sort of doubt it would look too funny. If you really just want some dust sheilds that aren't 70% rust, it's probably a great thing to try out. Turns out @Infosecdad is a hero and has a set available, so I am going to go that route instead. I played guinea pig with the STi rad mounts forever ago, and don't mind spending money to find a thing out, but in this case, I might as well just replace knuckes +sheilds all at the same time with nice units instead of messing around one peice at a time. My calipers could use a coat of black paint as well.....

I'll consider this for next time. My memory is freakishly good for things like this tho, so I generally do pretty well with projects. Still, it doesn't hurt to have a check list to remind you to put on the damn inspection cover. (realistically, I can drive without it, especially with the big Primitive Racing skid plate protecting the underside, but still... it should be there, so I will replace it.) On the plus side, I found the alternator mounting bolt!

I was having fun, but I do take your point. I, however, have nobody to ask to do such a task. So since I can't be at the exhaust at the same time as I am revving the engine, I tend to always take the most conservative path.

That’s very good to know. But would you choose not to check shaft runout because it might be the exhaust instead?

Let me guess… Just hanging out in the garage doing nothin’ ? If by any chance you ARE coming to the ECM, there will be a box of parts for me in that beautiful white wagon. If not, I’ll see a about having said box shipped to my NY mailbox. How do the knuckles look? If the answer is ‘better than 20 year old rust belt ones’ then put my name on those as well.

It's the bolt pattern to match the hub that will probably work/not work... BUT the '04 STi part is $25 vs. $62, so it definitely seems like it's worth having a further look into it. Thanks for that. Maybe we get lucky and it's the same as the $15 STi rad mounts vs. the $50 LGT rad mounts? Not the same part number for hubs from Rockauto... but the difference might not be all that big? Is it worth the $25 gamble?

Looks like OP might be one and done, but the advice stands. Hah!

Anyone ever come across a pattern replica for our front brake dust sheilds? I am striking out. I'm good to pay OE prices when it matters, but seriously? $60 USD for a little slip of stamped metal.... I mean.. C'mon... I suppose I could look at other models that have the same knuckles (which I am likely to replace with some Dorman units, becuase half the price.... Or maybe freshen up some scrapyard parts.) but I guess only GTs would have sheilds large enough to accomodate our relatively large rotors... Ugh.

Hah! You mean it's branded Legacy, but it's actually a Legacy. Only Aus gets Liberties because of a naming conflict with their military veterans league. Anyway, sounds like you've got it covered. I am at the tail end of refereshing my engine, and am awaiting a shipment of new CT clamps to replace everything, and try to delete the few worm clamps I have had to use to replace failed/rusty/old CT clamps. This is in addition to replacing all the coolant, PCV, fuel and vacuum lines. So much time and money, haha! So very much the same battle. Not wanting to leave any 20 year old hoses and pipes in the bay.... Of course, while you are in there..... ugh.

Sorry, just to double check... Is the GT-B a 2.0L in your market or 2.5L? This would change the whole discussion meaningfully. Smaller engine is not going to spool up a turbo as fast. A VF52 on a 2.0L is a much "bigger" turbo than on a 2.5L car.

Correct. STi style TMIC is compatible with a VF48, LGT Style TMIC is not. LGT style TMIC is compatible with VF40/46/52. I think you have the Godspeed/REV/etc.. TMIC? It can probably be adapted to an STi style turbo, but will involve buying more parts. VF40/46 are the same thing, don't let the marketing fool you. A stock VF52 will spool a few hundred RPM later than 40/46. Not many would *really* notice the difference, it is claimed. A modified/lightened VF52 may spool pretty much as fast as stock VF40/46, but keep working harder a little further up into the RPM range. Certainly far enough that unless you're throwing in stronger rods, it's doubtful you'll run out of turbo. I can't speak to availability where you are, but around here it's probably easier to find VF52 stuff than VF48, just becuase there were more WRXs than STis. I currently run a modified (JMP Custom) VF40, and it is soo fast. Like snappy, full boost below 3000 RPM. But, since I have everything else set up for more power (EL headers through to 3"/2.5" turboback exhaust, etc....) I want to see what a modified VF52 can do. I'll get to take a ride in one shortly, then I'll decide. My gut says that I will hardly notice a coupld hundred RPM to spool up, and in hitting the stock 5MT with more torque at higher RPM (not to mention rods, ringlands, etc...) just helps to prevent from breaking things. I don't think many with a turbo that size would tell you that it isn't still perfectly streetable. Indeed one of the more common comments I have read is that the LGT + VF52 is the combination the car should have come with from factory. Granted, those people are probably more performance driving oriented than those who see it a luxy mid-size car for cruising.

Yeah, thanks man. I hit a wall last night, mentally, and took a break. It was time to put down the tools for an evening and relax. Even with the remote mounting kit I picked up, space below/behing the alternator is so tight, I think I need an elbow fitting to avoid hitting the oil pressure sending unit hose with the alternator. Then I could not find an alternator mounting bolt anywhere, and I sure there are a couple in the parts heap. Then I had my first "forgot to do something important" moment, and realized I hadn't mounted the inspection cover on the bottom of the engine that covers the flywheel. Not the end of the world, and I am pretty sure I just jack up the engine I tiny bit to slide it in... but at like 2100 after a few long late evenings in the garage, I decided to take a break. Maybe tomorrow I will just drink some beer and tidy everything up for a bit. It's always good to push hard to get a job done, but my goal is to have it on the road by the end of the month, and I think the last week of working hard and long hours had paid off. I should have these minor problems solved and out of the way by next week at the latest, and I think on the road and driving by mid-month is totally reasonable. I also have to get my vegetable gardens ready and planted in the same time span, so that is a lot of work to do. No sense burning out now. Hah!

Thanks man. I had considered changing the barbs too. Just that all the ones I found were a lot longer, and I didn't feel like cutting them down to fit. But if I am unhappy with the adaptors, I will definitly try those out instead. Or, the SS versions of the same from McMaster Carr or whoever. I like stainless steel more than I should, hah!

Haha! I feel ya, but I *personally* feel fine running down large bolts into alumimium with my 3/8" drive gun. I've probably spend a lot more time working on motorycycles over the years where everything is aluminium so you get a feel for the trigger. Only had to do a couple of thread inserts over time because of misjudging torque based on 'mechanics feel'. And I can honestly say the most of those screw ups were with a ratchet by hand, or a torque wrench that just didn't register quite soon enough. Sometimes you break things even being careful. Then you have people like my friends old boss who had some kind of ridiculous inability to break stuff, it was magical. Shop policy was "Tighten everything 5lbs over spec, and stake it...." How everything that entered that (motorcycle) shop didn't end it's days there some kinf of miracle, but he'd been doing it a long time and really didn't break things at all often, so who knows.

If they are the same length from bolt hole to bolt hole, I would feel fine leaving them as they are. Plenty of examples of parts which are the EXACT same with different part codes stamped in them because they belong on different models. Ie: the $50/each LGT rad supports which don't do the job any differently than the $15/each STi rad supports. Very literally the same dimensions in all aspects, but for some it costs $35 to stamp a different number into them....

Internets suggest that 50nm should be safe for 10mm fine pitch in 20mm of aluminium no lubrication. But not knowing the alloy type, a safer bet may be ~35nm or so. This only based on torque charts. Many factors at play.

Those do look awesome btw. Having the gear to fold and cut metal would be sweet. I mean… gear that is not a death wheel on a grinder + a bfh.

You an engineer or what?! 4 dakkas should do, 70% of strained wrist with an 8” ratchet. But that is being kinda technical.

How about this? https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/search.asp?keyword=barbed+splicer Check out your more local home brew supply store when you need food grade (304/314 SS0 hose joiners. They come in for almost any of the ID sizes youre likely to find on your car, and will help either replicat those pesky OE hoses that have different sized ends or join an existing length of hose to a new one. You can find the same stuff elsewhere, but it is always 3x the price. Homebrewers are cheap bastards and won't pay the prices asked other plaes for these kinds of things. When you look at the Company 23/Turkeylord blue tee replacement @ $12USD where some of the common ones here are $2.50 CAD, and are SS instead of plated steel, it's really a pretty good deal. I have more than a couple of these in my engine bay and around the emissions tubing surrounding the tank. Stick a ziptie on them, you'll need a LOT of pressure to blow thos hoses off, the teeth on them are sharp enough to get a good bite on rubber/silicon.

Oh? Crap. Sorry Byron. Not trying to steal anyone's thunder. I have actually meant to go back through all 14 pages lately, but have not. I had to look pretty hard to find these guys, so I was excited and wanted to share.

Got quoted $10 CAD/each for the constand tension clamps that hold the rad hoses on from the local Subaru dealership. (!) Even with the online ordering they are a few dollars each, $3-4 USD depending on which site. This seemed a little silly to me, so I went looking around. Found this: https://belmetric.com/ All sorts of metric fasteners, in many of the hard to find JIS threads, etc... prices are totally reasonable. At least better than dealership, and you are getting good quality parts in any case, not hardware store stuff. Including a good selection of constant tension clamps, the 38mm size ones for the radiator hoses were something like $1.70... so a far cry from the $40 it was going to cost me for 4 new ones at Subaru....

Clarify a thing for me. Why would you go to the trouble of the STi location turbo to only switch up to a VF48? VF52 is a stock frame turbo and will literally bolt up to your current components if you have a VF46 right now. It's not THAT much bigger than a VF46, and will work just fine with your injectors + pump, etc... They can also be modified to a billet compressor and all the like. Granted, going to an STi turbo will open up a lot of doors on options for future turbos, but it's not like there is a problem sourcing them for GTs. To be fair, it's not that hard to do, but if you don't want to spend the money on an aftermarket intercooler + piping, or swap to STi stuff, a VF48 doesn't seem like the most logical choice.

Glad they look like they will work. That VF46 will be your limiting element right now anyway, not the injectors. Then pump if OE, then injectors. My tuner is fine to do a VF52 on stock injectors (550’s). But since I am probably going to do an uprated version of that I will need more. I’ve been told as long as you stay in the realm of reasonable, then bigger is better. More headroom and lower IDC is good. Just don’t get 2000cc injectors for a 300hp street car…..

Not to muddy the water too much, but make sure it's LGT as well. OBXT is different ratio. Pretty sure the autos are different than manual ratios as well, if the donor source is uncertain.