KZJonny

ESA inspector arrived while I reassembling the engine. Ended up talking about turbos and welding for like 45 minutes. He took a look around. Opened the breaker panel and used a hardware store receptacle/gfci tester to make sure recs were wired correctly, then signed off and left. So…. I guess car guys stick together and know when a person is doing good work.

I am immediately 100% sold on soda blasting. Before and after. Note: this took about 2 minutes, and I have never used one before in my life… crazy. Blasting soda is on sale right now: might have to go pick up another bag. I’m going to want to blast everything sight now. Hah!

Little things add up. Insulating crossover pipe a little. Since it sits crazy close to the header. Yeah, the block is irrecoverably dirty, but the pipe can at least get a refresh and some spiffy SS fasteners that won’t corrode in 2 years….

Fill us in on how those work out for you. What material will you print them from?

Best I can do man. Note the difference between the old vs. new type of o-ring. I believe they were updated as the OG type leaked over time.

Back to OP: Some good info here on ‘other’ turbo engine choices. Even back in 2011, the TT swap wasn’t well liked apparently. At that was when a TD04 wasn’t considered an outdated dinosaur of a turbo.

Ugh…. I’ll try to get you a some numbers today. Will be out in the garage a bunch, so I’ll dig up those parts.

I can try…. They’re super soft, so getting a measurement might not be easy. They’re also *really* cheap, and boost leaks are a serious problem… really think it’s worth not getting new ones? Maybe just take measurement of the groove they sit in? That would be effectively the same thing.

Lgt calipers. Whatever brand you like. They’re really quite good, all things considered. Brembos are either for actual (regular) track duty or are just bling on the roads. I would consider using normal ceramic pads for daily use, then save up for better pads for track/autox days. Track pads aren’t good on the street and vice versa. No drilled rotors. Slotted if you must. Good quality blank are all you’ll probably need. Put in fresh ones unless the rust is totally superficial. Like any amount of scoring or a rust ring on the outside is just going to eat your new pads. Have you taken the brakes apart yet? May be just a stuck slide pin causing the brakes to overheat. You may be finer with just a cleanup and new hardware for a few hours of your time…

Okay, I will bite, but I need to ask the stupid question. Are those high or low beam? And can they be used in a normal USDM housing? I will grudgingly admit the OE headlights are only okay.... I really do not want to go to HID's but will consider it as an option. OR: PM me and let me know about your experience with the full LED conversion. I would much rather go that route, but my limited experience using LED bulbs in the USM housings (Good quality bulbs....) was less then awesome, so I'm at a loss about what the next move should be.

Yeah dude! I am much more a fan of pre-facelift look than post, but that looks slick. Wouldn't turn that down... at all. Hoping we get to see it in all it'd glory at this year's ECM? @Enlight is bringing me some JDM bumpers, so maybe you can apply your skills and we can do the swap at the house one afternoon?

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Fuel-Injector-O-Ring-Fuel-Injector-Seal/49228247/16608KA000.html Part number 16608KA000 Wherever you prefer to get your parts.

What are the chances you are missing peice #14? Or maybe #10 or 8? Sometimes things get lost during a rebuild and you forget they were there etc... If that is the case, I would get new ones anyway. As you've already pointed out, loose injectors is bad mmm-kay? Those rubber bits harden and shrink etc.. and new ones are cheap.

Torque solves a lot of problems… I would genuinely like to find a NA bugeye wagon and give it the proper suspension/tire/engine once over. Top speed and hill climbing. The EJ253 isn’t gonna take down a well trimmed GT, but driver skill counts for a lot. Plus not having to upkeep a garage queen turbo car means you have more money to spend shredding tires and filling the tank. (Which you well know….)

Or you have the tail lights already until someone tells you there is a garnish that matches, and you don’t have it. Which makes your car look like trash, apparently….. @jaylew?

Sigh….

This part is the same between OB and Legacy yeah? I’m pretty sure I’ve removed one at some point, but might need to again to re-seal my backup lights. What is the secret sauce for doing this without breaking stuff? Is it glued down somewhere, or sneaky fasteners?

PM sent - maybe OP will get an email flag with that?

Electrical inspection Monday. I know the work is good, but there could very easily be code stuff I missed or misinterpreted. We will see. I do know all new circuits here are meant to be Arc Fault Interrupt protected, but it’s awfully hard to run an arc welder on a circuit that is…. So ideally that isn’t a problem. I guess the lights should have one? Ah well. Cross that bridge when I get to it.

Monroes will be an easy install and definitely better than flogged OE units. I'd personally go through the trouble of getting the KYBs and finding some springs you like tho, or new OE. Depends on how much you like the car, and how long you want to keep it, I suppose. If it only sees relatively tame DD duties, Monroe would be fine. I have Rallitek springs +KYB rears on my 05 OBW, and threw Monroe quick struts in the front because I was in a hurry and it's was my daily. In hind sight, I wish I'd taken the time to move the springs over to KYBs or find some better ones. But, I do probably push the old girl harder than most, considering it's a DD.

I can pull one out tonight and have a look to confirm. But from memory they are M8x1.25 like everything else on the car. Flange head bolts, as long as you can make fit. I wouldn’t use stainless for this application as much as I love to replace everything with SS. I would stick to high grade 8.8 or 10.9 steel for anything that actually bears suspension stress. Be cheaper a well, tho you may end up hunting around for the M8 fine thread bolts. Not many places carry them in stock. They’re probably like dollars a piece at Subaru as well.

Brake line/abs sensor bolts are M6. Little guys. It’s been a minute, but the sway bar bracket bolts would have been at least M8. I would say ~20mm or so. You have the arms yeah? Just measure the depth and thread pitch of the holes. That’ll tell you accurately.

@Febreze Mee.... I'm not so sure about that statement... But my NA Legacy isn't at all fast.

Ej20X, EJ255, EJ257, all open deck blocks, or semi-open depending on how you call it. All come with factory turbos. Many make 350awhp when done up right.... That is plenty of power. iwire will have great advice for sure. I was mainly suggesting that there lots of known and documented ways of swapping to common engines that will make enough power for you. Anything twin turbo and JDM is going to be very expensive + a very small community of people who have done it, and are able to help. Not many of them here (if any). Probably 90+% of this forum is either EJ255/7 or some single turbo variant of that with a built block or a Type RA short block, which is the same thing. Modern turbo technology means that twins aren't really a thing for small displacement engines like a 2.0/2.5L any longer. LOTS of info out there on the argument, and tons here about the mainly USDM platform stuff. People here are happy to help, but I don't think many are going to have much to say about the twin turbo Legacy/Liberties. I lived in New Zealand for a few years, and drove a TT Liberty that a friend owned. It was quick, but my EJ255 was faster when it was stock. Just sayin, more turbos isn't always better.