KZJonny

I had no reaL choice by then, since my filler neck was already going, etc… Hopefully you can seal it up with rtv, but I will say that the Spectra tank I got was great. Fit perfectly. Dorman also makes good stuff in that regard. It just has to fit and hold fuel, so it was one of those things I felt aftermarket was just fine. Under $400 CAD at rockauto. If it comes to that. It would at least be half of the price of OE.

I had the same problem, and it for me it WAS cracking of top plastic hat/cap of the fuel pump assy. At the time, I could only find a part number for the whole pump assembly and since I was putting a new uprated pump in anyway, it didn't make much sense to spend OE money on a thing, just to replace some plastic. (Did you find the part number for just the 'hat'? If yes, please share....) My ah... solution? was to use fuel safe RTV and slaz that on where the leak was getting through. Solved the problem. Made a larger problem when I next need to access the tank or pump. In my case, I installed new everything (tank, pump, fuel filler neck all EVAP hoses, etc.... so I've got my fingers crossed I am 10+ years away from needing to deal with that again? BUT, I do not smell fuel any more, and I can drive safely and forget about it, until I can't.... make sense?

Pretty sure that is the difference between a Spec B/JDM mount and 'other'. I think the solution is to get new Spec B mounts. Dealership should be able to get them, but they're probably also available elsewhere. Maybe rockauto etc... if they state compatibility with Spec B suspension.

Riiiiiight. That’s how. That is the mother of all markups when buying domestically! It’s also not such a bad deal anymore. Materials alone would be like $75 CAD.

Am I being really dense here or something? How does the price go from $530 USD to $133 USD?!

Yes.... but yowza! You guys and your bags full on money. Ima spend that $800 CAD on some pipe, + fresh argon bottle and make one myself... With the remaining $650 I'll get some proper Champagne and caviar to celebrate the install. Then I'll go burn 3 tanks of fuel just because I can.

@Enlight will be bringing the JDM front bar I bought for like, $12. I also have a Cusco front brace that only fits JDM bars, so it seemed like a reasonable idea at the time. I have an LGT…. So… straight up fit without the foam eh? I mean, I can always weld up a shorter crash bar and mount it to the steel ends down the road. Delete or trim the USDM rear crash later. I kind of like having the foam…. Takes some of the rattle out of the plastic, but I will 100% work with what I’ve got.

Yeah. Best thing is you just rinse the part in hot water thoroughly when you are done, and there goes all the abrasive. Nothing left behind to scratch up delicate parts. Just a slightly basic solution that rinses away when you’re done….

Yes. Probably just be the front, since I didn’t find a rear bar on time for the shipment. (Do have a rear bumper tho.) Maybe should bring along a jigsaw or a recip if it looks like it’s possible to cut down the USDM bar to fit. Not sure.

ESA inspector arrived while I reassembling the engine. Ended up talking about turbos and welding for like 45 minutes. He took a look around. Opened the breaker panel and used a hardware store receptacle/gfci tester to make sure recs were wired correctly, then signed off and left. So…. I guess car guys stick together and know when a person is doing good work.

I am immediately 100% sold on soda blasting. Before and after. Note: this took about 2 minutes, and I have never used one before in my life… crazy. Blasting soda is on sale right now: might have to go pick up another bag. I’m going to want to blast everything sight now. Hah!

Little things add up. Insulating crossover pipe a little. Since it sits crazy close to the header. Yeah, the block is irrecoverably dirty, but the pipe can at least get a refresh and some spiffy SS fasteners that won’t corrode in 2 years….

Fill us in on how those work out for you. What material will you print them from?

Best I can do man. Note the difference between the old vs. new type of o-ring. I believe they were updated as the OG type leaked over time.

Back to OP: Some good info here on ‘other’ turbo engine choices. Even back in 2011, the TT swap wasn’t well liked apparently. At that was when a TD04 wasn’t considered an outdated dinosaur of a turbo.

Ugh…. I’ll try to get you a some numbers today. Will be out in the garage a bunch, so I’ll dig up those parts.

I can try…. They’re super soft, so getting a measurement might not be easy. They’re also *really* cheap, and boost leaks are a serious problem… really think it’s worth not getting new ones? Maybe just take measurement of the groove they sit in? That would be effectively the same thing.

Lgt calipers. Whatever brand you like. They’re really quite good, all things considered. Brembos are either for actual (regular) track duty or are just bling on the roads. I would consider using normal ceramic pads for daily use, then save up for better pads for track/autox days. Track pads aren’t good on the street and vice versa. No drilled rotors. Slotted if you must. Good quality blank are all you’ll probably need. Put in fresh ones unless the rust is totally superficial. Like any amount of scoring or a rust ring on the outside is just going to eat your new pads. Have you taken the brakes apart yet? May be just a stuck slide pin causing the brakes to overheat. You may be finer with just a cleanup and new hardware for a few hours of your time…

Okay, I will bite, but I need to ask the stupid question. Are those high or low beam? And can they be used in a normal USDM housing? I will grudgingly admit the OE headlights are only okay.... I really do not want to go to HID's but will consider it as an option. OR: PM me and let me know about your experience with the full LED conversion. I would much rather go that route, but my limited experience using LED bulbs in the USM housings (Good quality bulbs....) was less then awesome, so I'm at a loss about what the next move should be.

Yeah dude! I am much more a fan of pre-facelift look than post, but that looks slick. Wouldn't turn that down... at all. Hoping we get to see it in all it'd glory at this year's ECM? @Enlight is bringing me some JDM bumpers, so maybe you can apply your skills and we can do the swap at the house one afternoon?

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Fuel-Injector-O-Ring-Fuel-Injector-Seal/49228247/16608KA000.html Part number 16608KA000 Wherever you prefer to get your parts.

What are the chances you are missing peice #14? Or maybe #10 or 8? Sometimes things get lost during a rebuild and you forget they were there etc... If that is the case, I would get new ones anyway. As you've already pointed out, loose injectors is bad mmm-kay? Those rubber bits harden and shrink etc.. and new ones are cheap.

Torque solves a lot of problems… I would genuinely like to find a NA bugeye wagon and give it the proper suspension/tire/engine once over. Top speed and hill climbing. The EJ253 isn’t gonna take down a well trimmed GT, but driver skill counts for a lot. Plus not having to upkeep a garage queen turbo car means you have more money to spend shredding tires and filling the tank. (Which you well know….)

Or you have the tail lights already until someone tells you there is a garnish that matches, and you don’t have it. Which makes your car look like trash, apparently….. @jaylew?