KZJonny

Yeah man. Not harshing on the car at all. I have 2 x Subarus at the moment, and love 'em. Even tho they don't get *great* mileage, etc... I also don't hate the $2000 Yaris I got either, lol! Seats should come out pretty easily, but I only drive wagons, so maybe a little different. You'll get a little more noise with the trunk being exposed, so there is that as well. There is also a fuse you can pull which will disable the AWD, basically makes the car FWD while it is engaged. So, you can reverse the change easily enough. It wouldn't make *much* of a difference, but you wouldn't be driving the rear wheels all the time. At 100 miles a day of driving, it would add up a little during fair weather months anyway. Every little thing will help. If it is manual you are already better off, but you can also do all the hypermiling stuff with low RPM shifts, pedal feathering, drafting, throttle pulsing, etc.... It all sounds a little crazy, but do some reading. They are actually pretty easy habits to get into if you drive that much and you may be surprised at hown much they can stretch a tank. Fuel injector cleaner + keeping the air filter really clean will help noticeably. Switching to the thinnest grade of full synthetic oil recommended by the owners manual will also reduce internal drag in the engine itself. Probably 5W30, but maybe you can go thinner, like 5w20/0w30 SYNTHETIC? IF you have an automatic car, then checking the condition of your ATF would be smart. If it is less then excellent (still cherry red), not a bad idea to flush and refill. New fluid has optimal flow and therefore less parasitic power loss due to ageing and viscosity... trans will last longer as well.... EDIT: Quick research at BITOG suggests sticking to an Xw30 oil. So... 0w30 synthetic would be safe at least. The NA EJ engines are not super hard on oil anyhow, except when the head gaskets inevitably fail. (If you didn't know... the headgaskets on that car WILL fail, no matter what you do/how well you treat it, so be mentally and financiall prepared starting around 200k+ kms....)

Wagon or Sedan? Assuming this is a 2.5i Limited, and not a GT? Pull the rear seats + spare tire and assocaited tools. Keep tire goo on hand instead. If you haven't done so lately; new plugs + couple tanks with Berrymans B-12 fuel system cleaner, fresh air filter, maybe plug wires (if 2.5i). If you don't have great spark, you are losing fuel economy. For serious? Even NA Legacy/Outback are full time all wheel drive. No way to get around drivetrain losses, which is probably the biggest thing and adds a lot of weight to the car. If you don't really need AWD for your work commuting, sell it and get Fit/Yaris/Micra, etc... I got an old Yaris to drive while I am repairing my OBW and am getting like 6.5L/100kM driving it like it is stolen every day. Best the OBW could do was 8.X L/100km on the highway and 10+ with mixed city/highway. Fuel saving alone might pay for half the car in a year or two at 100+miles a day.

+1 For Enlight's great customer service and competitive pricing. He even took time while he was on vacation to help me sort through some ads on yahoo.jp and select some nice looking JDM bumpers. Got them to his warehouse and packed together to save on shipping as well. A++

I don’t but live on the border and have a mailbox in the US side, so I’ll remember that. I’m a little tapped out after my very recent engine refresh atm.

Paging @JmP6889928! Any need for vf40 cores or parts? One here that needs a home.

Yup. That is what I used as well. Just the Canadian version. Hah!

Another thought as I get closer to install and fire up. Since I have had the thing apart, and done some cleaning and installation of lots of new bits, I thought it wouldn't be the worst idea to run some cheap oil through the engine first. My plan was to just get a 5L of the cheapest 5w30 available at CT, and maybe add a half cup of ATF to it for extra detergent action. My intention with this was just to make sure the oil pressure gauge works before turning the enigne over, and to catch any tiny amounts of contamination I wasn't able to clean away or didn't see during the reassembly process. So... run this while idling the engine to warm it up and burping the coolant only. No load, no road use. Once engine is hot, and the coolant is done bubbling, dump warm oil install new filter + fresh Rotell T6 5w40 and should be good to go boosting along down the road?

Took off yesterday in lieu of Easter, which I had worked. Awesome day to be in the garage and working on my things. On top of getting my electrical signed off on, got a lot of work done on the engine. Totally forgot the 'order of operations' for how the coolant pipes and fuel lines need to be installed, so that was a little bit of install/torque, then unfasten, move and re-install... hah! Also may have forgot to install on of the big m10 bolts that hold a turbo support bracket to the block. Ugh. Loosen all other bolts, and use just finger tips to get it started and long crank handled wrench to tighten it, like 1/16" of a turn at a time..... Still, happy with most of this. Plenty of rusty stuff either replaced or repaired and POR 15'd. New fuel lines, rubber hoses, seals, etc... Installing the turbo inlet is a hundred times easier with out the IM in the way of course. I'll take more photos next time I am out there for an evening, hopefully soon. I really like the subtle bling from the SS fasteners replacing all the rusted heads on the OE stuff. Downside is that if you drop one somewhere in the bay, you're not going to be able to fish it out with a magnet. Not so much a problem as long as you don't drop it into the intake or whatever. You can push around most dropped fasteners with compressed air, etc.... I also didn't notice that the M8 x 20mm SS bolts I bought have 13mm hex heads instead of 14mm! It's fine, but the Subie purist in me chafes at that a little. I now need 4 different size sockets to disassemble the entire engine bay, instead of the 3 it used to take....

Thanks dude! Helps everyone out. If the shipping from Colorado wasn't silly I'd pick them up myself for spares.... GLWS!

In case you didn't read the sticky on the Classifieds: A price on the items beings sold is a requirement, not a recommendation. Not strictly enforced, but still, it help everyone get an idea what the value of sold/used items are over time. It's also not an auction, the point isn't blind offers and seller gets the best price. It's supposed to be an open market with known pricing for everyone's benefit. This Member Classified sub-forum is for members to sell 2005 - 2009 Legacy and Outback parts. Selling parts for profit in this sub-forum is prohibited. If you want to make a profit selling parts, please find another venue (off-the-site) to market your product. THESE ITEMS COMPRISE A FOR SALE THREAD LOCATION AND TITLE To create a For Sale listing, first create a title that indicates, using the pull-down menu, that the item is for sale or for trade and location, and what is contained in the thread. TEXT, DESCRIPTION, AND AMPLIFYING INFORMATION Describe in as much pertinent detail as possible what you're selling, the photos, condition, mileage, age, type, i.e., for manual transmission, payment forms accepted and required notification about posting questions, offers and acceptance in the thread. Note about photos: All photos must be loaded to the site with 24-hours. Use the Manage Attachment process Linked photos are not permitted in the Marketplace and will be removed where found. AVAILABLE ITEMS Use this part of your OP to describe what it is you're selling and the price SOLD ITEMS Use this part of your OP to move your part listing from "Items Available" to "Items Sold". Keep everything intact and mark it (Sold to - Screen Name)

Yup. The full story is that the TGVs had already been cleaned in the ultrasonic for a couple of baths with some very hot water and HD Simple Green, which is safe for aluminium. Normal Simple Green is not, tho is it a good cleaner in general. I didn't take any 'before before' photos, but rest assured, they were much worse. Greasy, as you say. The US cleaner took care of most of that. What was left was really hardened dirt and oxidation. Now the dull grey oxidation I don't mind, it is harder than plain aluminium, so it's actually kind of better to leave it alone than polish the metal to a shine, but that is a personal preference. I don't mind that part of it, but if you look close, you can see how the surface was 'textured' with a sort of very hard sandy looking grot. You could get that off with a brass wire brush, but that is relatively a pain in the ass, and time consuming. So I decided to have a go at the soda blaster. They are pretty popular in the motorcycle world because you have so much more exposed aluminium on most bikes. So, if it isn't clean, you often see a lot of it. By comparison, the block below the intake manifold on my engine looks like crap, but you never really see it once the whole thing is assembled, so I am willing to live with it. For those interested, I got the soda blasting canister for ~$130 CAD shipped. (Buytools.ca https://outilsquebec.com/en/air-tools-and-accessories/7318-soda-blasting-abrasive-unit-sdb07g.html) I honestly think this might be a mistake on the pricing, since normally a 15L blaster is about the same price, and I have seen the 7 gal/40lb kits on sale for ~$300 elsewhere, but that is not my problem, and I now have one, so happy days.) A 50lb bag of blasting soda was $80, and I would guess I used maybe a couple pounds tops to do the 2 x TGVs. That said, it went on sale for $50 and I dropped in at the store with my reciept and they refunded the difference. Might go get another bag while it is on sale. I was also just blasting into my back yard, so it was a total loss on media. (which again, just dissolves into the lawn and adjusts the pH slightly up, no big deal....) It would not be hard to set up a frame/backstop and some kind of plastic film/tarpaulin to catch the media and reuse it. Anything super fine can be discarded, but there was for sure a lot of the large(ish) granules remaining when I was done that would have had more life in them. I suppose you could also use it in a cabinet, but it does get dusty pretty fast, so I think I will stick to this method for now. You'll also need a pretty good air compressor, so that is a big investment, but if you already have one, then all good. I have a 240V 60 gallon compressor with a line filter and regulator in my basement already, so easy enough for me on that one. The soda blaster comes with it's own regulator and water trap as well, helping to prevent the media from getting damp and clumping up, I presume. It's an investment for sure, but from first impressions, I can certainly recommend trying it. I *really* wanted a vapour hone/blaster, but at like $2K USD for an entry level one, I decided to try this out first. That is a lot of blasting soda to make up the difference!!!

I had no reaL choice by then, since my filler neck was already going, etc… Hopefully you can seal it up with rtv, but I will say that the Spectra tank I got was great. Fit perfectly. Dorman also makes good stuff in that regard. It just has to fit and hold fuel, so it was one of those things I felt aftermarket was just fine. Under $400 CAD at rockauto. If it comes to that. It would at least be half of the price of OE.

I had the same problem, and it for me it WAS cracking of top plastic hat/cap of the fuel pump assy. At the time, I could only find a part number for the whole pump assembly and since I was putting a new uprated pump in anyway, it didn't make much sense to spend OE money on a thing, just to replace some plastic. (Did you find the part number for just the 'hat'? If yes, please share....) My ah... solution? was to use fuel safe RTV and slaz that on where the leak was getting through. Solved the problem. Made a larger problem when I next need to access the tank or pump. In my case, I installed new everything (tank, pump, fuel filler neck all EVAP hoses, etc.... so I've got my fingers crossed I am 10+ years away from needing to deal with that again? BUT, I do not smell fuel any more, and I can drive safely and forget about it, until I can't.... make sense?

Pretty sure that is the difference between a Spec B/JDM mount and 'other'. I think the solution is to get new Spec B mounts. Dealership should be able to get them, but they're probably also available elsewhere. Maybe rockauto etc... if they state compatibility with Spec B suspension.

Riiiiiight. That’s how. That is the mother of all markups when buying domestically! It’s also not such a bad deal anymore. Materials alone would be like $75 CAD.

Am I being really dense here or something? How does the price go from $530 USD to $133 USD?!

Yes.... but yowza! You guys and your bags full on money. Ima spend that $800 CAD on some pipe, + fresh argon bottle and make one myself... With the remaining $650 I'll get some proper Champagne and caviar to celebrate the install. Then I'll go burn 3 tanks of fuel just because I can.

@Enlight will be bringing the JDM front bar I bought for like, $12. I also have a Cusco front brace that only fits JDM bars, so it seemed like a reasonable idea at the time. I have an LGT…. So… straight up fit without the foam eh? I mean, I can always weld up a shorter crash bar and mount it to the steel ends down the road. Delete or trim the USDM rear crash later. I kind of like having the foam…. Takes some of the rattle out of the plastic, but I will 100% work with what I’ve got.

Yeah. Best thing is you just rinse the part in hot water thoroughly when you are done, and there goes all the abrasive. Nothing left behind to scratch up delicate parts. Just a slightly basic solution that rinses away when you’re done….

Yes. Probably just be the front, since I didn’t find a rear bar on time for the shipment. (Do have a rear bumper tho.) Maybe should bring along a jigsaw or a recip if it looks like it’s possible to cut down the USDM bar to fit. Not sure.

ESA inspector arrived while I reassembling the engine. Ended up talking about turbos and welding for like 45 minutes. He took a look around. Opened the breaker panel and used a hardware store receptacle/gfci tester to make sure recs were wired correctly, then signed off and left. So…. I guess car guys stick together and know when a person is doing good work.

I am immediately 100% sold on soda blasting. Before and after. Note: this took about 2 minutes, and I have never used one before in my life… crazy. Blasting soda is on sale right now: might have to go pick up another bag. I’m going to want to blast everything sight now. Hah!

Little things add up. Insulating crossover pipe a little. Since it sits crazy close to the header. Yeah, the block is irrecoverably dirty, but the pipe can at least get a refresh and some spiffy SS fasteners that won’t corrode in 2 years….

Fill us in on how those work out for you. What material will you print them from?