KZJonny

Thanks! I need to use that site more. I usually buy from https://parts.subaruonlineparts.com/ because they're geographically close to me, so things ship quickly. But they don't have those nice breakdown diagrams. I'll remember that for next time.

Anybody have a part number for the small coolant hose that runs from the bottom of the turbo coolant reservoir, from the bottom, back into the coolant pipes bolted to the top of the engine block? I suppose it is the feed hose coming from the pump... Nothing on Opposed Forces. #3 in the image. Much thanks.

At a guess, it sounds like wiring. Or bad grounds/poor power to the power steering pump (for one) and maybe somewhere else causing poor running conditions. Without a meaningful CEL. That’s at least where I would start?

If you almost wrapped your car around a jersey barrier they you were going to fast for conditions. I was doing about 25km/h. White knuckles the entire way. Any slower and I would have been a hazard on the road to everyone else. So technically to fast for conditions, with the performance tires I had on. But recklessly fast? No. Just a freak weather event that convinced me to keep all seasons on my 3 season car just in case that ever happened again. Southern Ontario is a stormy, icy, cold place, but almost never in October. I have proper Michelin X-Ices on my winter cars.

I believe you, but does it matter with the Grimmspeed TMIC? I found it to be super easy to install because both ends are silicon pipes. Or do you mean a little more for the OE unit. (Which I found to be a real bear to get re-attached to the turbo/throttle body…) And I am good to skip the ATF as a detergent for now. I may try it in future as I do oil changes. Throw it in for just a few kilometers before doing an oil change. Really gently keep everything clean.

Hah! I should know that, since I do have a set of aluminium trailing arms. Been a while since I got the kit to install them tho. Forgot what all is in it….

Thats a sweet deal if you can land it yeah... I do not mean to start a fire here, since talking about either tires or oil seems to really get some people's blood pumping. But, I think for less than track use, the all seasons are great. I also live somewhere the weather can be shockingly wild. I am on Continental DW06+'s. The "+" is the A/S version... but I came damn close to wrapping my car around a jersey barrier when we got snow and sleet in October a year or two ago. That is like 2 months earlier than we should get snow around here. (That was on older high performance tires… replaced them with the Continentals.) That was enough to convince me to go with the A/S that is much more tolerant of cold + slush. Not awesome, but they get you home...

Sounds about right. If I bleed the brakes, I can take another one off the list, and get the two year old fluid out at the same time. Hah! When the insurance is on, the offer of a day on the lift is still there. Good incentive to get lots done is to only have a day to do it... (tho you know you're welcome to more than one day.)

Looks good! Sorry, I never got the car in the air like I meant to, so didn't have a chance to look at the bolt size and thread pitch. If you don't find the right donor bolt to confirm, let me know. I woul also guess that the bolts will be 10x1.25 fine thread. I have several bags of bolts from my local fastenal for when I do jobs and find ones that are garbage and in need of replacing. I don't think I remember ANY 10 x 1.5 on the car, it's almost all JIS type stuff, so ususally fine thread. I can and will lift the car and pull a bolt to confirm as needed. PS - I also don't know what those above Cusco plates are for.... I need to get back underneath the car.

How is this going for ya dude? I took a look at my list and laughed. I've managed to spend at least 100 hours this past month and a bit working on the car, and somehow have avoided doing most of the things that I had on the "to-do" list and did other things instead.... I stopped thinking about how much I've spend on the GT this Spring. I need to be able to look at myself in the mirror and not cry.

Totally agree. Unless you're pushing the car pretty hard, this is all you are likely to need for a good long time. Take care of any clunks and noises, just because they can be safety concerns. After that, put on the best tires you can afford... you can't make a better investment in handling than that. Period. Continental DWS06 and Michelin Pilot Sports are favourites among many here and both are excellent. The all season versions are a little cheaper and longer lasting and likely all you need for a DD that doesn't see track days. The full Spec B suspension + sway bars + endlinks + etc... I installed is awesome, but being totally honest, the difference between OEM stuff and all of that was probably less noticeable then when I got rid of the tired out Eagle Sport 2s and had some Conti's installed. Night and day difference in grip, compliance and noise....

I totally agree with the general sentiment that paired sway bars are great, and your advice is good... But you DO you know that Cusco equipment IS JDM, and I guess... therefore ricey? EDIT: The rest was ranty becuase it was super late and I as tired. Hah!

Killer B header + up pipe. I like the sound of efficiency more than rumble. It helps out with spool as well. I have blankets for the up-pipe, turbo and down pipe so it keeps a lot of heat in the system. All that going in to a JMP Custom VF40 means fully spooled by ~2700 or so. Not a fast car, but she gets off the line like a scalded cat. The sending unit is for an analogue/electronic oil pressure gauge, yeah. I don’t know yet if it will fit with the alternator, but I certainly hope so. I moved the stock ‘replace engine light’ to the rear galley because it fits there and I don’t want to have a false oil pressure light on all the time. I guess worst case I either install a fully manual pressure gauge with an oil line to the cabin, or get a digital one. I’d rather not do either to be fair. Ha!

Getting there….

Is it a stock ECBS or something aftermarket. Leaks in any of those vacuum hoses are gonna be a problem as well.

+1 Don't forget to back up the current tune before throwing and OTS tune on to see what is going on.

?? I assume you maybe mean catless up pipe? Big exhaust with no restrictions will cause boost spiking or overboost. 2.5" is all you need without a bigger turbo or a 3 port boost controller + tune etc... Yeah. Unplugging the BC will run on wastegate spring pressure. If you try that you can at least know if the wastegate control is working on springs.

Looks clean! Good candidate to at least go and have a look, or ask about having a mechanic check it out, if you're good spending the money. There isn't *a lot* of support here for the JDM versions, but if it isn't engine or ECU related you'll get plenty of help. Were all the EJ20Y's TD04 turbos? That doesn't seem right to me, but I'm not a JDM expert by any means. I looked at importing a GT originally, but decided for myself the lack of support was a pain, and I wanted the displacement and torque from the the EJ255/7. Lived in RHD places long enough I prefer to be on the correct side of the car as well, hah! Same year and colour as mine, and I am immediately jealous of how little rust there is!

Exhaust doesn't look too bad. Brighter minds will chime in, but I find it hard to understand how enough coolant would somehow not get vaporized in the exhaust to then get past the gasket and pool on top of the turbo. Seems unlikely Loose coolant hose connection maybe? dripping coolant on to the turbo externally? And are you running around without either a heat shield or turbo blanket?! Shame on you. Get one or the other, or both, before you melt a power steering line and start a fire in the engine bay.

'Live' photo is not a still is it? I don't think the forum would like those. Not my area of expertise, but I think .jpeg is going to be the friendliest to upload. Nice looking car in any case. Sneaky front mount eh?

Where you at dude? No information in the profile. Buying a car in Canada, I assume with kms and CAD... Few questions. Why do you want an EJ20Y? That automatically means you're dealing with an engine swapped car, which is bound to be a headache. (Or are you looking at JDM imports? Which is a different headache with RHD, and that almost nobody here will be able to help you.....) Want to share the ad, so we can take a look ourselves? Unlikely anyone here is going to buy it out from under you. Kind of impossible to judge if the car is worth that money, but my gut says "no". Far too many unknowns. Manual/auto, sedan/wagon... really needs a compression + leakdown test and verified number to get even an idea of engine health etc.... ~$9K CAD is TOP dollar for an LGT unless meticulously maintained at this point. I would pay that for a pristine manual wagon with 100k kms, but probably not anything else.

Hmmmm what is a .heic file? Or is that something obvious I am missing. Computer doesn't want to open it, so before I open that can of worms, want to try using the 'insert image' function?

Yeah…. That is a big boost spike. Stock is like 14psi max. Definitely start with wastegate lines. Consider other failure points. How big is the exhaust? I peak at 17psi, and that was lifting my heads and blowing coolant out. 21psi on stock parts is gonna end badly.

Yeah man. Not harshing on the car at all. I have 2 x Subarus at the moment, and love 'em. Even tho they don't get *great* mileage, etc... I also don't hate the $2000 Yaris I got either, lol! Seats should come out pretty easily, but I only drive wagons, so maybe a little different. You'll get a little more noise with the trunk being exposed, so there is that as well. There is also a fuse you can pull which will disable the AWD, basically makes the car FWD while it is engaged. So, you can reverse the change easily enough. It wouldn't make *much* of a difference, but you wouldn't be driving the rear wheels all the time. At 100 miles a day of driving, it would add up a little during fair weather months anyway. Every little thing will help. If it is manual you are already better off, but you can also do all the hypermiling stuff with low RPM shifts, pedal feathering, drafting, throttle pulsing, etc.... It all sounds a little crazy, but do some reading. They are actually pretty easy habits to get into if you drive that much and you may be surprised at hown much they can stretch a tank. Fuel injector cleaner + keeping the air filter really clean will help noticeably. Switching to the thinnest grade of full synthetic oil recommended by the owners manual will also reduce internal drag in the engine itself. Probably 5W30, but maybe you can go thinner, like 5w20/0w30 SYNTHETIC? IF you have an automatic car, then checking the condition of your ATF would be smart. If it is less then excellent (still cherry red), not a bad idea to flush and refill. New fluid has optimal flow and therefore less parasitic power loss due to ageing and viscosity... trans will last longer as well.... EDIT: Quick research at BITOG suggests sticking to an Xw30 oil. So... 0w30 synthetic would be safe at least. The NA EJ engines are not super hard on oil anyhow, except when the head gaskets inevitably fail. (If you didn't know... the headgaskets on that car WILL fail, no matter what you do/how well you treat it, so be mentally and financiall prepared starting around 200k+ kms....)

Wagon or Sedan? Assuming this is a 2.5i Limited, and not a GT? Pull the rear seats + spare tire and assocaited tools. Keep tire goo on hand instead. If you haven't done so lately; new plugs + couple tanks with Berrymans B-12 fuel system cleaner, fresh air filter, maybe plug wires (if 2.5i). If you don't have great spark, you are losing fuel economy. For serious? Even NA Legacy/Outback are full time all wheel drive. No way to get around drivetrain losses, which is probably the biggest thing and adds a lot of weight to the car. If you don't really need AWD for your work commuting, sell it and get Fit/Yaris/Micra, etc... I got an old Yaris to drive while I am repairing my OBW and am getting like 6.5L/100kM driving it like it is stolen every day. Best the OBW could do was 8.X L/100km on the highway and 10+ with mixed city/highway. Fuel saving alone might pay for half the car in a year or two at 100+miles a day.