KZJonny

You're good dude. The advise to not go 'full send' all the time MAY not be bad, but the difference between an ELH and OE is mainly a little bit of turbo spool (faster) without everything else in place to make the most of it. Keep an eye on boost and AFR, to make sure nothing is out of spec and get those parts swapped. I also don't really think a good e-tune is particularly a risk. (Cryotune or Tuning Alliance) It just puts more responsibility on you, as the driver/owner to make sure everything is in good shape before doing a few WOT pulls. (Not on public roads, of course....) You don't have a babysitter looking at logs the whole time. But, you get what you pay for....

Studs + bolts are cheap, even at Subaru. Easy fix. Good chance the bolt is rust welded to the stud, so get both. I’ve never heard the technical term ‘gurgles’…. Video may help? I tend to agree with @rhino6303. More data is better. Compression test will be valuable information. Fix known problems before chasing down issues, so do the manifold first. Maybe smoke/pressure test the intake system to look for leaks there as well? Ruling out the easy stuff goes a long way.

Yeah. I think it works well. @jaylew did that not long ago, and I think he did a bit of a DIY setup to make the acetone vapour... He might be a good guy to reach out to about it. My feeling is that you get a great surface, but that the UV inhibitors in the plastic are still used up, and the lens needs protection again after the refresh, but maybe I'm wrong on that, and re-melting the surface to a uniform layer is enough to get back to a 'close to OE' finish. I have a set of lenses that I've cleaned and sanded down to good plastic, and I am just going to hit them with some 2K clearcoat. It's not perfect, but for a 3 season car that I put away in the garage for the winter, that should be good for 5+ years, and already have all the eqiupment to do it. Tho, seeing neat new tools always makes me want to try them out. (Like this acetone vapour kettle) I would however, suggest if you try this you use an activated charcoal respirator, not just a surgical mask. Acetone isn't the *worst* thing out there, but I try not to breath too much solvent fumes no matter what I'm doing!

Installing a GS 3 port EBCS the other day, I ran in to a problem I think is pretty solveable, but I wanted to know if anyone else has had the same issue. (For the record, I am installing the EBCS in 2-port/bleed mode for the time being, I just figured it's easier to have it installed +install the line to switch to 3 port mode sitting there and waiting to go while the engine is out that to fight with it later.) Annoying problem is that the barbs on the EBCS are tiny, like 1/8" or 3-4mm, whichever you prefer. One of the ports tho is supposed to go to the intake manifold. No big deal, except those barbs are like 3/8" or 1/2" roughly... I MAY have found a nice SS barb adaptor to go from the tiny hose up to the IM barb, but they're not small, and real estate under the IM is pretty tight. I would have to make it a much longer loop than stock to get the barb adaptor to fit in there somewhere. I don't see that as being a big problem, and I hardly think it will slow down response time much, but shorter hoses are probably also the best option. I was also thinking that maybe glueing the small hose inside the larger OE hose that comes off the stock EBCS might be fine? I have lots of high quality RTV lying around after the refresh and figure if it can seal up the cranks cases/valve covers etc... from leaking fluids, it should be able to hold up to a few psi of boost or vacuum while holding a couple of little hoses together? Anyone else come across this same problem? Other options I suppose might be to replace the barb on the EBCS with a larger fitting, or try and find barbed elbow fitting that suits the IM (Perrin) that has a 3/16" or 1/8" barb on it... Any suggestions are welcome. Cheers!

Or the trans. Depends on which is easier for you to do. Job to do the separator/piston pic cover would be slightly easier with the engine out, but not by a mile, since an engine stand will have the arms kind of in the way..... If you happen to have a plastic separator cover plate (unlikely) there are metal replacements that are less likely to leak. I'm not super familiar with the late 90's Legacies, but I think they're in the same boat... that some had plastic covers.

I would always start with looking at the main grounds, or wherever the clock display, etc... ground out to. (Never hurts to look at the main battery/engine grounds either, many electrical gremlins trace back to that.) More specifically, there are some threads that talk about poor solder joints in the trip computer that benefit from being re-flowed, and which cause some problems like these. I don't have a reference for that off the top of my head, but a search might bring some of it up.

If you're getting a CEL for that, it's either the motor or the sensor beginning to fail. I have the same problem, but it is erratic and tends to go away if I turn the car off and start it again. In my case, I pulled the TGV butterfly plates, so that if something ever does fail, the car will still run normally, not have 2 cylinders blocked off from getting air. (TGV deletes not being an option for people like me on COBB tunes....) There is also a procedure for installing and calibrating the TGV sensors and motors.... You need to move the blades/butterflies to the correct position before installing the rest, etc.... it's somewhere in the FSM. I'm sure you'll come across it.

Old fluid. Air in lines, ultra worn out pads… All adds up too.

Don’t forget the Yari. I mean… kind of seriously. I got mine for a couple grand and slapped a whiteline rsb and some Michelin winters on it, and spent the winter here passing Volvos and Mercedes SUVs. They don’t seem to like getting passed by econoboxes, but on all seasons…. they also can’t follow me through corners….. lol! Want more power? Throw a Corolla 1.8L in it. That is a lot of jam for a 2200lb car. Hah! Soooo… how bout that camping trip?

Oh man. That’s bad. Ebay fakes have gotten pretty good or bad, depending on which side of it you’re on. Rockauto has Timkens and SKF sometimes too. I’ve got mine from them, and have a few years on all of them. No trouble yet.

Fair. A4 Allroad = 2.0L turbo. But serious, you've already got enough drama in your life without another high strung small displacement car. OBW would be as capable, if slower and far easier on maintenance, etc... I drove my neighbours Sienna after doing a brake job for him, and while I would never own a minivan, for all sorts of reasons, I have to confess that the Toyota 3.5L V6 has some jam, even on a family vehicle tune. Of course, you then get the worst of all worlds, V6 smashed into a van engine bay..... BRZ sounds like a highly practical skiing day car. That said, I drove a '91 Tercel in the Rockies (Sunshine/Lake Loise) to a couple hundred ski days.... Just threw on some good winters and drove past the Jeeps that got stuck on the roads up the mountians. becaue all seasons, and tourists are idiots.

All cool options. Since you just smashed a VAG car, does an A4 Allroad wagon not make the list? I've heard that once your used to the VAG, there is no going back.

https://www.autotempest.com/results?make=subaru&model=outback&zip=01606&radius=300&maxyear=2009&transmission=man I picked a random ZIP code in the middle Mass. I don't know where you are, but it's not THAT big of a state. I like the green one with only 90K on it. My favourite colour for 3rd gen outbacks.

Awesome! I lived in BC for a while and those roads are for real. Also worked in Northern Alberta for quite a while, but generally took roads like that in my Ford F350.... Wonder if that is an H6? I couldn't see from the video... Either way. I wouldn't try in my stock height LGT, haha! But the OBW? I would 100% take mine down that kind of road.

First UOA from Oil Analizers. They do shipping within Canada and are associated with Amsoil, so easy to get your hands on and saves us Canucks from having to either ship cross-border or run over and send things in person. Easier and faster. The only REAL thing is the water level, and since there are no accompanying elevated levels of Sodium and Potassium which would be expected with coolant getting into the oil (Head gaskets were starting to fail, but only between the combustion chamber and the coolant jacket, not into the oil galleys....) I am going to attribute the water to a couple of cold weather starts while the car sat in the garage + condensation in the sump. This was the oil from last driving season, left in the car over winter, more so whatever oil I add in the Spring is super fresh and hasn't been kickin around for months. Turns out this was a good strategy, since the oil that was in it go dumped and thrown out.... Better that it was old and not new and fresh. So, I'm going to run a batch of conventional 5w30 through the engine for first start up, and long enough to get the cooland burped and confirm oil pressure, etc... All the usual stuff. This will go through the 5000km old Tokyo Roki filter from last year, which should have lots of filtration capacity left in it. As soon as initial start up and warm up is done, I figure I'll collect that oil in a clean container and put it in the Yaris. Hahah! I really doubt that thing will care, and after a few minutes of running in the EJ, it should be well and truly filtered and still very fresh and good to go. If I am wrong, then I carry on with my plans to swap a Corlla 1.8L into the Yaris and *really* get that nugget rocketing down the road. Ha! I'm going to carry on using the currnet oil cooler and see what the results are at my next UOA. If there is no noticeably amount of water, and the copper levels are normal, I will chalk it up to the oil sitting too long and condensation from a couple of cold starts withough sufficient time to boil water out of the oil. If they return, then I'll throw in a new oil cooler and try again!

The forum does not like the iphone "live" photo/videos. Just learned this. Try taking a still and uploading a .jpg file instead.

I recall my bushings looking a lot like that on install, but I can have a look this evening to confirm. Car is on a lift, so it's not so hard for me to get to that stuff atm...

Short answer is ‘’no’. You’ll never get enough vacuum hand cranking for the pump to pull anything up and send it anywhere. If you used assembly lube during the rebuild, then critical components will be protected during first fire-up. A little oil in the turbo chra never hurt either. Pull the fuel pump relay or use the clear flood function and crank until you see oil pressure, the fire it up as normal. People have developed some pretty crazy means of using pressurized garden sprayers and the like to prime the oiling system, so you can investigate that. But given that every Subaru the rolls off the line is just filled with oil and starter, you should be just fine.

Respectfully, I don’t think you’ll get a stock short block, reliable and 400whp in the same engine bay…. Pick 2 of those 3. I know you said ‘up to’, so that gives you a lot of flexibility… but if you want all those 3 things, you probably need to replace OE EJ257 with ‘built short block and forged piston, etc…’. ymmv tho. Any photos of the Rex?

Right there. I just finished putting all mine back together last weekend and these recent weeknights, so it’s pretty fresh in my mind. I also kind of know for next time what things have to go in before which other things. Hah!

Here ya go. Just saved you the cost of a power bleeder.

The list of things you DO NOT have in your garage has got to be shorter than what you do....

100% Do a *very* good flush, and maybe a caliper service just to make sure everything is good shape. There is also quite a lot of info on doing an STi master cylinder swap, which is pretty easy and gets a little better pedal feel. GrimmSpeed brace is a nice touch (I have one), but I am not convinced it really does all that much but look pretty. (But it's reasonably cheap, and it IS pretty.) The stock lines have steel braiding underneath the rubber. Most brakes lines do, so the old "SS braided lines" is another expensive red herring.... But a lot less money than a BBK, and they do look good. (Many disagree, but I think the improved feel most people experience when going to SS brake lines is mainly because they do a proper brake fluid drain and fill + bleed when the install them. New fluid + no bubbles... crazy how much better the brakes feel!!) Definitely exhaust all other options before the BBK. Plenty of GTs have been autox'ed on stock brakes and been juuuust fine all day, with the right pads.

Get whichever wheels you like, and planning ahead isn't a bad thing. So long as you are going into it with the knowledge that Brembo's are purely eye-candy unless you aggressively track the car. Nothing wrong with spending your money how you want, at all. But the stock brakes are really pretty good with fresh fluid and the right pads. Just saying because many seem to think they're (Bremos, that is) better for a DD or street use. They are fine of course, but for a few thousand dollars, I expect upgrades to make my car faster or stop/handle better etc...

What's wrong with yours? Ie: Might it be more spendy, but easier and faster to have the problem solved by a machine shop or transmission place?