aki334

I recently posted about searching for solution to fix engine shaking at stop lights especially when it is hot outside. - suggestions were to replace battery - replaced it with 850 cca group 65 (with small fabrications) - that did not fix it - installed "ULTRA GAUGE" (small screen that connects to OBD 2 plug) and reads all kinds of live data, reads codes, pending codes, deletes codes, alarms for high and low etc...) and noticed that every time when engine shakes it is because it was at 12V at idle at stop light and then when ac cooling fan kicks in it gets even worse. - red some TSBs about this situation where Subaru was replacing alternators on foresters, so I decided to replace my alternator. - replaced the alternator and no more shaking, engine is nice and smooth. The ultra gauge reads 14.25-14.33 V all the time. I never see voltage in 12V ranges. - I need at last 3 people to confirm their voltages when engine is warmed up and is parked. All loads must be off, so lights are turned off with switch to "o", turn off you AC and fan, turn off your radio, connect voltage tester to your battery post and with engine running measure battery voltage. If you see 14.2V wait little it might drop to 12V. Please post here your findings.

cleaning MAF, MAP sensors and their connectors with electro wash helps a lot. Also if you are good with tight spots egr cleaning will help too. Also disconnect negative battery and spray electro wash inside the alternator to clean dust and oils you will be surprised how that improves idle.

I was able to fit group 65. It is probably the biggest battery you can fit in the tray. Tray is 11" L and about 6 3/4" W I had to cut little trim from the bottom of the battery and make my own battery bracket. I selected Walmart's Everstart Max 850 cca. Walmart's web site lists this battery as 11.9" long, but that is the top dimension, the bottom of the battery is exactly 11" L. Here is the reason why I selected this low price battery:

I am sure you know this already but in the case you did not remember last time; never touch glass part of the bulb with hands. Oil from your skin will make them burn faster. If that is not the problem then I would check bulb socket for corrosion or loose pins etc.

Hi Sir, I do not know much except that I worked on the cars almost all my life and about 26 years professionally. Yes I know very well what it does. Measures current, voltage and temperature to tell alternator when to turn on and when to basically free spin. On some more expensive cars it does more than that. Anyway, when alternator kicks on then we have Lenz's Law theory going on and if you ever did that experiment you will know what I am talking about. But in short when alternator kicks on the pulley of the alternator will be much more difficult to spin which causes more power loss for the engine and that is when battery gets charged. Again here we have the theory called "you can not get something for nothing" I am sure there is voltage regulator on the alternator that will prevent overcharging. If this was AGM battery then I would not worry as much since it can take discharging and recharging better than the standard battery. Just because I asked the question certain way you can not judge my knowledge. So one question to you Sir, if Subaru knew what they were doing why is there TSB for the charging system and why is there now law suit for premature battery failures? I am sure those people did not disconnect battery sensor like I plan on doing. Please read this: https://www.torquenews.com/1084/update-subaru-outback-ascent-battery-drain-lawsuit-what-you-should-know

Thank you for confirming this for me. I have just read somewhere that there is a lawsuit against Subaru for bad battery/charging system problems for models 2018 and up. Your answer confirms same voltage as I measured which tells me Subaru did not do this right if you are constantly doing short trips. I will keep my battery sensor disconnected from now on since engine idle improves and battery voltage reads 14.3V instead of 12.1V. I will also get a new battery as others have suggested and will still keep the sensor disconnected because of the short trips.

The car starts fine, and I tested battery voltage while the engine was idling in park. It was giving me 12.13V then I just disconnected the "small two pin sensor on the negative cable" (temperature/current sensor) and voltage increased to 14 plus Volts. If somebody has DVOM/multimeter to just confirm this form me please, I wonder what will be your battery voltage with engine idling in park.

Hi all, I am trying to diagnose low rpm and shaking at idle with ac on and when engine cooling fans turn on. This is only problem at stop lights. My Legacy is 2017 so battery is about 4 years old and still original 356 cca. My first question for you guys is: Was your original battery group 25 with 356 cca? Every time I search group 25 it is at last 550cca 2. With engine idling in park can you guys measure voltage of your battery and report what you measure? When I disconnected battery sensor voltage raised to 14.3 V which I think should be. So I think I could have weak battery or bad battery sensor.

What you guys think about this wheels? Selected them mostly because of the same offset (55mm) SUPERTURISMO AERO OZ RACING 19" https://www.ozracing.com/alloy-wheels/oz-racing/i-tech/superturismo-aero they are 19" 8.5 wide - tirerack recomends 225 45 19 can I do 245 40 19 on stock suspension? will they look nice on white legacy?

Anyone else noticed this? RPM drops to 550 rpm with brakes applied when the weather is warm and engine at normal operating temperature. If you release the brake rpm increases to 700 rpm. I wonder if the brake light switch is potentiometer.

does anyone know the weight of the 17" wheels that come with base model? 17" 7.5 width

Check that site again, sometimes they say the width of the wheel tested. Depending of the wheel width the width of the tire will change. I can bet the wheel tested width was 7" and you have 7.5" so the lost width will be pulled in with side wall. The Cross Climate are very good tires, but one thing you want to consider is that the steering feel will be very light with them. Watch the tirerack video when they compare Cross Climate with other tires. I hated my new legacy for the first 35.000 miles on good year assurance all-season 225 55 17 the steering was so light and unbelievably responsive. Now the tires are 1/2 way worn out and threads are shorter so less flexing. The steering feel improved. Then I researched some reviews and now I see that good year assurance is probably one of the lightest tires on the market at 20lb for my size. And that is great thing for fuel economy, acceleration, braking, transmission in the long run etc.

Just for future references: this are not resistors, this are special hot wires that look like resistors. Hot wires sense how much air is touching them. No need to wipe anything since they are very thin and can be damaged. Just spray them with electro wash or maf cleaner spray.

Did anyone do egr delete or blocked it? Which kit did you use?

I installed it on my 2017 legacy myself, it did fit perfect. It helps if you lube the sides so they slip in easier. Also to be honest I did not notice any noticeable improvements. The best improvement was solid tower brace.

Just for the future reference, I also have AVIC 8400 pioneer installed on my wife's car Scion XB 2015 it is an amazing unit and I regret I did not install it on my 2017 Legacy. you will not loose any functions once you install "maestro" adapter that retains all the steering wheel functions and more. It also gives me check engine light codes, temperature, tire pressure and much more. You can even control the air and heat on high end cars. Another option for those without NAVIGATION is to buy yourself Garmin drivesmart 61 or equivalent unit same shape same size and put some of that black foam around the 4 sides of the unit and place it into the area where ashtray used to be back in the days. it fits perfectly and it all plugs in the connector behind it so you do not see any wiring. It looks like it came with the car. Too bad blue tooth is not compatible with subaru's radio unit so that I can hear gps over the existing car speakers.

Good thinking. I was thinking about it at the beginning. Looks like that will be the only option. I was hoping that there will be something already available. Not sure about you guys but this 2000 rpm cold start is stupid. If I knew about it I would not buy it new. Dealer had it already warmed up when I tested so I did not know. All my cars in life idled max 1000 rpm when cold. Now the it starts and stays quiet like a normal car, plus less wear on the engine components.

Hello all, I successfully tested eliminating of high warm up idle speed so that every time I start my car idles at 1000rpm instead of close to 2000rpm and when I shift from P to D it will go back to ECT sensor whatever temperature it measures. No check engine light for this. the trick is using 460 ohm resistor and relay with 5 pins. Now I do not want to cut or splice into original wiring. I can find on ebay ECT sensor pig tail connector, but what I do not know how to search for is the connector that looks like the female socket of the ECT sensor. Basically I can find connector that plugs into the ECT sensor, but on the other side I need the connector that looks like the ECT sensor connecting socket so I can bridge the current ECT sensor with original connector that plugs into the ECT. Then I will be able to cut into ect. Can somebody please help me find it? think of it like male and female connector connected with two wires that you can plug into each other and make a circle

Did you guys notice how easy was to remove hose from the pcv valve, and was little harder to remove the hose from the top connection behind the TB? I would replace the hose since the heat from the engine transfers on the metal pcv and makes hose hard and not sealing tight comparing to the top where it attaches to the plastic nipple which does not see that much heat.

Yes, fog light connectors are there waiting for you wrapped with blue electrical tape. Also there is a connector waiting for you under the dash on the left side under the steering wheel for your switch. You will have to buy OEM switch, blue relay that plugs in the fuse box under the hood and fog lights. I got the kit from dealer. Go to Subaru dealer parts online search for fog lights and you will find pdf file with installation instructions that comes with the kit so you can get the idea. I recommend that you get the OEM switch and do it right because even instrument cluster will show fog lights on with OEM setup.

with AC on and when you are parked for 10 -15 min so you see water under your car when you leave your parking spot? Did you buy car new? Did it have any accidents?

I agree a lot is from the sun, but also in closed headlight heat will rise up so you get the sandwich effect on a hot sunny day with DRLs on heating from inside and heat rising up and sun from outside hitting the top of the headlight.

DRL are high beams which creates a lot of heat. There is a video how to disable DRL by disconnecting single connector under the driver's side headlight/battery. I did it on mine for the same exact reason to avoid burning up headlights from inside and experiencing what you are now. And I do not keep my headlight switch on AUTO, I keep it on "o" so I turn them on when I think is really needed not the sensor which turns them on at last 45 min earlier.

I will have to change my battery soon, which size battery will use up battery tray 100% and still be able to be secured using OEM setup?

next time do this: Cheap and very effective, just keep adding new oil to reservoir to flush out old.